What happened??

samedi 2 juillet 2016

Just about when I thought I had this hay making stuff half way figured out I get knocked down a peg or two.

I baled 9 acres of pretty heavy orchard grass clover hay with a small amount of timithy and alfalfa in it as well. Mowed it all on Monday from 5 to 8pm with a discbine was pretty wet had rained a little that morning. Was in mid 70s with 20% humidity and slight breeze stupid low humidity for my neck of the woods. Next day at noon I tedded it out and it was pretty dry and ground had dryed out well in between mower rows. Again all day Tuesday was in mid 70s 30% humidity and slight breeze good drying weather for me. Wednesday we raked with rotory rake at 1pm and by 3pm was rdy to bale or so we thought. Hay was almost to dry I thought stems snapping and brittle. Round baled up a few and if I let baler run while I went from windrow to windrow it was actually so brittle bale was getting smaller. So we hooked up square baler and baled 300 bales. Had some issues getting them tight enough i thought because it was to dry bales were tad on light side and baler was down as far as it would go but seemed ok and finished field off. Tested a few at 6% to 9% low but figured ok. I bale on ground then we pick them up later. So baled till done at 8pm and picked all bales up and stacked in wagon by 9 30. Nothing wet nothing damp all good I thought.

Here comes the problem I put wagon with 200 bales on it in my machine shed as I knew I had to work alot coming 2 weeks. I left wagon loaded in shed 3 weeks and when I went to unload it 2 nights ago I was pretty shocked to discover my hay was very dusty and smelled. Outside exposed to air was good inside all dusty not heavy mold just pretty dusty. Then entire wagon was this way so earlier loaded bales vs late or earlier baled bales vs later didn't matter.

Everything I've read on here and learned in 3 years I have no idea what I did wrong? Nothing during any phase of making this seemed like it would lead to moldy hay. I was more concerned with to dry lighter bales then mold until I went to unload.

Couple pictures of wagon before I unloaded it and while I still thought I had 200 horse quality bales lol!

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What happened??

Cloned Prime Steak

vendredi 1 juillet 2016

AgWeb.

 

Regards, Mike

 

http://ift.tt/299HsHn



Cloned Prime Steak

old man oil change

http://ift.tt/29b8hx0

I use this to change the oil now^^^^^ :thewave:

i don't have to pull the skid plate or get underneath my RTV anymore. i use it on all my equipment too.


old man oil change

Kroil

I got this email for Kroil spray .. 2 "king size " cans 14.95 plus 5.95 shipping if anyone is interested. I may order, but haven't yet. http://ift.tt/298jprH


Kroil

Late

This field I'm going to hay has not been cut this year yet. Will this effect the quality of the hay? It's gone to seed head and is waist high.

Late

krone kr160 baler

I got  kr160 baler and door slams shut but when running 1 side  bounces open back and forth  just a little bit like it isn't latched on that side, , any answers?



krone kr160 baler

Having issues with the net tearing of the left side of a 67, 68 series Deere baler?

jeudi 30 juin 2016

I come across this issue also and i thought some of you may be experiencing it also.  As pointed out in a previous thread the spiral flighting on the net roller gets sharp edges and starts catching the net.  If you have a baler with more than a few thousand bales read on.  A bad bearing on the roller itself can cause this so check that out first.  If it's good then the culprit is likely the left bearing support bracket itself.  It is bolted on and the roller bolt goes through it also on both ends. 

 

 

First the lower of the 3 bolts will break and then the bracket itself will twist and move forward.  This causes the roller to move ahead and the flighting wears steel on steel.  In the pic you will notice a side plate from a 80 chain to show the proper clearance ( approx 1/8").

 

 

The solution is a brace made to keep this from happening.  I just used  a couple short pieces off square tubing to make them up and it bolts to the holes in the next pic, bolts already removed.

 

 

Bolt the short length of 1 1/2"  tubing to the baler, make sure you have the proper clearance ( side plate) and weld on the piece of 1" square tube.  If needed the bracket can still be removed with the brace welded on.  Nothing much to it and it ends that net tearing problem.  Someone on here suggested paint after the flighting is touched up and i readily agree.  I do that too.   I put these brackets on my three 567's last year and never had another issue.

 

fallwin 1015 008.JPG

 

 

 

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Having issues with the net tearing of the left side of a 67, 68 series Deere baler?