Bought a little old tedder at auction. I need to replace a gear. I would like some info before i tear it apart to replace the gear (tooth off).
I can not find anything for a Galfre GS 250 manual. same as a Walton WT8. Any experience with one of these is welcome. I assume I will have to remove the end rotors, to replace the main drive gear.
Friend has a 474 that I'm trying/buying.
He inherited it and does not know much about it. I do know that they were never impressed with dry down time, and said it was very noisy.
Think I've found out why: the two arms and bushing in the center of machine for roll pressure is very rusted. Still is- any tips or just time, heat, and PB, WD-40 etc.?
I like Mike10s idea of getting a zerk fitting on it, I just hope I get to that point!
I'm need to build a drawbar to pull an accumulator (Tubeline 10 bale) behind a JD 348 baler. Can anyone post a picture or give me some pointers as to how it attaches to the baler? Thanks in advance.
Jim
After owning cattle for several yrs I was presented with twin calves. It took a little while for me to get someone to assist me & it turned out the twins were both breach.
I'm going to look at a couple 1432 discbines in a few days. Just wandering if anyone has any experience with one and what I should look for. I don't cut any alfalfa so I would like to try the flail conditioners. Most everything is grass hay but I do put up at least 100-200 acres of pearl millet or sorghum sudan each year. How do flails work in the taller heavier crops? I've only been around New Holland machines with rubber rolls. thanks
I have been told maybe the flail machines also do better in really light thin hay because they dont create as much air movement blowing the hay down. Any truth to this??
Hi there. We need to replace lower right side rail. Haven't started on it yet but it looks like rear bolts are covered up by pick up and feeder floor. Is there an easy way to get to them? Thanks in advance
I know this has come up before but I did not see a search feature. Anyway, what concerns should I have if any about switching over from sisal (9000) to plastic (170) twine on older New Holland small square balers (27X models)? I recently must have purchased the worlds worst ball of sisal twine and the constant breakages just about drove me crazy. The price differential in itself has made me strongly consider changing over for the past year or two but now im ready to make the move. do I just tie the plastic to the sisal and go?
Are the attached pics meadow brome or smooth brome? This field was a timothy stand that was overseeded with brome in fall 2015. I looked back at my records but the type of brome and variety is not specified. The timothy stand ultimately failed and it is now in orchard grass. the field was treated with Gly before og plant so any brome there was killed. The area of the pic is where the former property owner decided to plant three rows of pine trees down through the newly overseeded ground. I wasn't paying any rent so not much damage. However, the net result is that once the brome took hold, and went to seed, either 2016 or 2017, it has been triving with perhaps one weed whip trim a year. It is thick as hair on a dogs back. The leaves max out about 30-32" in length, the seedheads go to 42.
I am having issues getting the orchard grass to fill in the bare spots in this field so I thought I would mix brome into the og overseed mix this fall and see what happens. It was beautiful and leafy when I cut this field 10 days ago. If I am overseeding 12-15# og, how much brome should I use? I am assuming about 10-15#. I have a GP 10' no-till drill but orchard grass does not particularly like the small seeds box so I will probably just mix it in 5 gal buckets and use the big box. Guessing the rate will be 20-25# with the mix. Any thoughts?
HI:
I have a Tote fertilizer spreader and would need a manual for it. Anybody knows where I could get my hand on one?
It was model 1969
Thank you
krone mower clutch seized. i loosened the bolts according to the book and tried to spin the clutch. it won't spin. just one year old. what is my problem. active mow r 280.
my round baler will not pick up grass, have lowered tines as low as could go but still nothing. Any suggestions? Thank you.
I have a 580B case that has a bad transmission along with other stuff that needs fixing but has a really good motor . I can get worth the money a 580K case that has a bad motor , and a few other minor issues , it does run , barely , but can confirm that all the other functions work . I think that they will interchange but guess I need a reassurance . So that is my question , will they interchange , from the fly wheel to the waterpump ? Are they basically the same ?
Thanks
How long should I wait after the first cutting of my Russel Bermuda before I spray 2 4 D Amine. We had such a wet spring here I could not do my usual green-up spray and it is really showing in field. I think I should wait till after re-greening of field then spray, wait additional week or so then apply my N2 . Anyone have better or different ideas?
Thanks for suggestions
I am thinking about getting either a maxilator or a W R Long Grapalator to pick up bales. I don't have a skidsteer and will be using this on a full size tractor. does anybody else do this or is it to difficult to see bales on the ground?
Anyone close to south central MN know of a place to rent a hydraulic post driver?
I have about 40 acres to fence (high tensile). I've called several rental places in the southern twin cities metro area but no luck. Same goes for the dealerships that I've talked to.
Should I put urea down, or is it too late (or maybe just need more rain?)
Been in a major drought for all of 2021 here in mid Michigan (little to no snow or spring rain). I decided to overseed my pure orchard grass field this spring in April, right after I put down cow manure (normally I use horse manure but I couldn't find any for a decent price). I was maybe a month late as I was waiting on our new tractor to arrive.
I read after the fact that cow manure is much LOWER in nitrogen 
Anyway, we got next to no rain for the next 30 days, an really NO rain until just Sunday night. It's been scattered rain in the evenings since. So neither the manure, nor the seed has had a chance to kick in.
Normally I cut last week of May (this weekend), but the hay is unusually thin and looks quite sad. The winter was warmer than normal, so temps shouldn't have killed any off...
I'm wondering if I can still somehow get some urea down to give a good pop or should I just cut it as it stands? It hasn't really gone to boot yet, and is maybe 8-10 inches tall (normally 24+).
This is horse hay, so I try to keep the protien up and sugar down. If I wait too long, protien will fall to 8%. Out here we only get 2 cuts too, and normally 1st cut is my big one..
I just don't want to worry about nitrate poisoning, or wasting my $$$. I normally put urea down right after 1st cut, or at least 3 weeks before any cutting.
This field is only 4 years old, and has been overseeded every year except for last year, so it SHOULD be standing tall and proud.
***I have not done a soil sample this year, but could do one as a check. soil has always checked out great. All my fields with this grass variety seem to be faring poorly though.
Thanks for your input!
I purchased this baler 1 year ago and it worked great. This year when i trip the lever to make the net wrap it starts but won't stop.I have checked everything i can think of. I can't see anything broken anywhere and have looked at everything in the manual. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Twine auto tie not starting, I'm having to push manually wrap every time and most of the time have to manually cut the twine. Making for a long day in the field! Help, please.
Anyone had any experience with a McHale 991BE wrapper? The reason I ask is this used brand is for sale locally. Due to high amount of rainfall I'm considering baling some high moisture rd bales when Mother Nature decides to stop raining. There are not many high moisture rd bales wrapped where I live.
Thanks, Jim
Recently at an auction I bought a little 2 star tedder to use as a backup. I made a good buy (price)--I thought.
2 days ago My main tedder had a flat tire so I hooked up the little backup tedder on a Massey 50 tractor.. It is a little old Galfre 8ft, pipe arm style tedder.
The Good news...works great, easy to hookup, good combination with the old tractor...works in a pinch. Spreads the hay very well.
The Bad news....it has a very heavy "thunk" noise on every revolution. The noise never goes away at any throttle speed or load. Sounds like self destruction is on the way.
I suspect there is a tooth off of a gear in the gear box. Turning by hand there is a noticable catch at the same spot in every revolution of the star. I don't have a manual, and not sure it is worth the time to disassemble.
Any ideas?
First off, this is only our second year owning a baler. I didn’t grow up doing this so I’m still learning how to operate it. Tried to start baling a few days ago and every time we started it would break the shear bolt on the PTO. Also noticed we were bending bars so I kept changing bars and shear bolts. After fighting it for a day we got out the book and started adjusting on it.
We tightened the apron chain tension, and adjusted the roller chain that drives the big drum on the bottom of the baler. Tried baling again and it actually baled like it should. Made about 4 or 5 good bales then it began breaking shear bolts again. But I noticed it was ‘puking’ hay up front.
The hay builds up in front of the chain to the point I can’t see the bale in the chamber. And once it starts puking hay it will only make a bale about 2 or 3ft in diameter before it shears the bolt. The pickup is always running, I haven’t sheared that bolt but it’s almost like the hay can’t get from the pickup to the chamber. Any help would be appreciated
Working on a NH 276; it was missing too many bales at the end of last year; it was cinching the knot on the bill hook tongue; I had rounded the tooth on the tongue and shortened it a bit; I loosened bill hook tension. It would miss a couple ties per hundred; it I did not catch it in time, it would have two or three strings hung on bill hook.
I replaced bill hooks and set tension to spec. I also loosened tension from twine box to 10# (it was @30# tension with needles at top of needle stroke; an old manual called for 5-15# in this position)
I have adjusted knife arm to max (½” past bill hook) and it had acceptable pressure/rub on bottom of bill hook... it is wiping the bottom fine.
Everything I seem to do makes it worse and I have been chasing any possible cause, but am out of ideas.
Yup, I searched the forum first with negative results; I re-read Mike10's pinned posts... no specific luck; even googled the crap out of it... no love.
Thanks, Mark
We have been hearing a ticking sound for a while and our son was going to cut 12 acres of Fescue the other day and we thought let's put a new set of blades on it so it cuts clean for regrowth. Well as soon as he fired it up the noise was terrible. So after all the listening and checking we finally found the clicking noise, we starting hearing this last year. The 6th turtles blades are touching the 5th turtle. The old blades were worn off enough it really wasn't that bad but the new blades were really smacking it. So our neighbor that used to have a 1411 looked at and said it's your shock pro hub, you've hit something. Well we took it apart and the five splines on the shock hub are still intact. So we checked the play and noticed the 6th turtle turns about 10 degrees before the 5th turtle starts to move. Between the 6th and 7th turtle they have the normal amount of play like the rest of them. Today we took off the top cap with the bearing and bevel gear off and the bearing feels fine, the teeth look perfectly fine and the pinion gear inside the cutter bar shafts looks fine on both the 5th and 6th module. Our question is where is all this play coming from on the 6th module? Is there an adjustment because we don't see anything that would cause this and we're in new territory with this. All maintenance and oil changes has been done according to the manual, there was no water in either modules just oil.
If we set the shock pro hub one tooth out time it appears that the blades will not hit but that doesn't really solve the play/backlash issue. Really won't know until we reseal the bearing caps and torque everything properly.
I'm going to have upload the videos on YouTube because of the file size.
New to me roller. Used it for the first time yesterday. Would pickup and start applying the twine fine but wouldn't apply twine on the left side of the roll (the side closest to the knife).
I'm looking for advice/help in changing out connecting link(s) on a New Holland 488 haybine.
I bought a used HR10 and the first pivot cylinder is not working. This is the one that controls the tilt with a ratchet. I'm trying to figure out if it is supposed to go up and down via hydraulic pressure. It is not leaking, when I opened some of the ports, they are bone dry. The rear lift system works perfect and the hydraulics go through the first cylinder before it reaches the second one that works so I know it is getting oil. I'm scratching my head. Anyone have any thoughts?
Need some 1/2-20-2" full threaded flange bolts to cure walking lugs on hay wagons. Anyone know a source? Thanks.
I'm new to growing hay and would like some advice from the experts. I planted hay seed last fall and as of this writing it seems as though it is doing well. It will be used to feed a few horses. I have had two different opinions as to when to do the first cutting. One guy said to cut when you normally would. In these parts that would normally in June. Hoyever another guy told me that since it a new field and the grasses are trying to establish new roots, I should let it go through Aug to make sure a good root system gets established. I can go with hay for awhile if that helps. What should I do?
Thanks in advance.
I have an Agco 4 basket tedder I just bought used last fall. It's vertical hydraulic fold. The hydraulics have always worked when I've used it before but today, I hooked up the hydraulics to drop the arms and nothing. I can see the lines moving under pressure but the cylinders aren't moving.
I tried reversing the lines going into the remotes but got nothing there either.
I know the hydraulics on my tractor are fine because I just had the mower hooked up before that.
Any ideas?
I picked up a used Agco 4227 tedder today .......looks to be in good condition.........anyone have any insights and information i should be aware of before takeing it to the field for a test?.......looks to have been made by enrossi .......same models in other brands for parts?
Hello, we bought used NH Baler , but we can't start the computers corectly.The computers start working, powered by a separate cable, from the battery by the main relay, which is located in the baler,The contacts layouts on the main connector are not the same .Maybe you have information on how to solve this problem,wirring diagram or full repair manual Thanks.
Hey Y'all,
My husband and I are looking at replacing the old wood and wire fencing on our ranch. Probably about a mile and a half in total. We are looking at purchasing from www.foreverfarmproducts.org but first I am curious if anyone has experience with HDPE fencing as livestock containment. I love the look of their fence, but I'm so weary of plastic after some awful experience with vinyl. Their product says it was made specifically for horse containment, and comes with a 25yr warranty that guarantees it won't crack shatter or splinter but I'm still skeptical! Help!
Looking at seeding down 30 acres of a good grass mix for horse hay in central Iowa. We currently have 60+ acres of alfalfa/grass mix, just looking to fill a need/gap in the local market. Im open to anything, but looking for a high yielding quality mix.
I appreciate any advise.
-TC
I apologize if this has been cussed and discussed already. But I'm beginning to hear rumblings about shortages on twine and plastic. Is that just rumor, or have you run into the same thing? What's your experience been?
Lynn Jaynes - and thanks in advance.
I'm refurbishing a MF 12 baler in decent condition. The 4 wear pads on the bottom of the plunger need to be replaced. They are made from some sort of very hard rubber/plastic slabs for which Agco wants $74 each. Can anyone suggest a material I can make these out of? Needs to be tough, friction resistant and able to be cut and drilled with conventional tools. Thanks!!
So I am looking at getting a Tracked Skid loader for my hay and beef operation. Then I was talking to someone and they recommended I look into a telehandler. If I am going the Tracked skid loader route I would be getting a larger model. So I was looking for some advice on what would be best for me. I just need to lift 5X6 round bales, and a 2500 pound pallet of seed. and load my manure spreader. I have a budget of about $55,000 + or -.
Any advice would be great and thanks for the help in advance!
So I was at a dealership auction yesterday and acquired some new Trimble parts along with some other items I actually needed.
The box of parts is a Trimble AutoPilot steering system. The box says "Platform Kit" and appears to have an Eaton Hydraulic valve that would probably bolt into your hydraulic stack at the back of the tractor, some hoses, a bunch of harnesses, some sensors, and some metal mounts. There isn't any antenna and no "control box" or display...
I know nothing about these kits. What is a platform kit? Doesn't this system use a drive motor on side of steering wheel??? If anyone has a need for it I can cut them a heck of a deal although I really don't know what a deal would be...
Just wondering-given the chatter on thin hay and lower yields, I am planning on raising my price 50 cents a bale to 7 even. What are others thinking? Orchard grass. around 47-50# average
Looking to buy a used big square baler under $30k any input on what models to stay away from? or total bale count?
Based on multiple HT threads, it appears that the Delmhorst 2000 is the preferred handheld moisture meter and the BHT-2 is the best baler mounted moisture meter. I have an old handheld that I bought from JD probably about 1997 that still serves me well and a BHT-2 mounted in my small square baler. I use my temp reading a lot, for checking the following day on. Hay going through sweat makes the moisture reading after a day pretty much useless. My question is reading temps on a Delmhorst-I see no mention of that capacity. Is that correct, does it not measure temps? If it doesn't, what is the best handheld meter which does both. Buddy of mine asked for a recommendation.
Hi everybody. Going to auction preview to look at, a JD MX8. I understand there were problems with the outboard gear boxes failing. Apparently the replacements were stronger. Any way to tell if they have been replaced? What is the general opinion of these mowers? Should I not bother to go look?Thanks MHG
Had a brand new kicker wagon last fall and an empty slot in the storage shed last fall. Seemed obvious-put the wagon in the shed. Pulled it out today getting ready to bale tomorrow or Friday. Spent an hour with a pressure washer cleaning the bird poop off. I won’t make that mistake again. Less damage sitting in the rain all winter
For some neck and back reasons , the cattle left last fall . As did a lot of other cattle around here because of corn prices and land owners that are purely after a buck instead of being worried about dirt in ditches from tillage of hills that have no business being cropped . So pasture is tight . I was hit up by a local cattleman that I do know and respect , wanting to rent my pasture . Im sort of going down the soil health thing and refuse to crop my ground . And along the same lines , Being picky about how its pastured as well . Going to be fall calving cows , They will be gone before they calve . Basically by the month rent . Its tall now and no haying or bushhogging , I want it mob grazed , tromp it in the ground , move them daily , anyway , I have my rules . And probably just this year while I have some outages on me Ill need something to do next year , hopefully
So what kind of rent can be charged ? By the head ? by the acre ? How much ? In north mid western kentucky 
Has anyone found any other outlet to buy M&W baler parts from besides Art-Way, or Messick? Specifically, I am looking for the roller chains and links inside the chamber. Apparently they are obsolete now. Somewhere some one has got to make these in aftermarket for another product. I just don't know who or where.
M&W 5690 with net and twine wrap
Dry weather forecast through Saturday night. I got the itch to hitch and cut. However, the inner voice of wisdom says “you know it’s too cool to cure”.
By chance in getting my Wilmar sprayer running, I bought a second one in fairly good shape but missing a tank. In looking it over, it sure looks like it could be easily grafted to an inline baler as a fun project. Would sure straddle a big windrow!
Reviving an old topic but was wanting current feedback. In the past everything in our area has always been done by the bale, weather you are buying or selling rounds. i have been transferring my hay sales from "by the bale" to tonnage sales. My question today is if someone is buying wind row wheat stubble to bale, what is a fair price to be paying by the ton. I have asked around and no one in our area is doing this but i have a neighbor that would like to sell his wheat field in this manner. The only way i can figure is to calculate nutrient removal and then add some to that amount to make it worth his time. Any thoughts will by appreciated
Planting a Alfalfa/Grass mix with Alfalfa being 10lbs/acre as the first cut will be used for horses and don't want to much alfalfa. Would you recommend a cover crop to go with it (and if so what would be best) or should I just plant the Alfalfa/Grass mix only? I am in southern Ontario, Canada and the last 2 summers has been really hot and dry. Not sure what to expect this year.
Thanks,
Dave
Hi- first time posting on here but have been reading and learning from everyone here for a few years. I do a few acres of grass hay every year for a few mini Herefords I raise. I bought a NH 66 baler a couple years ago and have been learning as I go with this and trying to make better hay.
I’ve been reading about sharpening the baler knives and figured I should take a good look at mine. The stationary knife looks like the pictures and videos I’ve seen related to knife sharpening. It has a good clean edge and seems to be reasonably sharp. My question is about the plunger knife. It is squared off with no angled knife edge, and saying it is “squared off” isn’t exactly accurate because the edges are rounded smooth. Before I order new knives for this I wanted to ask about sharpening the current knives. The stationary knife seems obvious to follow the current angle and just clean up the edge. Should the plunger knife just be ground with a flap disc back to a square edge with crisp corners? Or should it have an angled knife edge opposite of the stationary knife? Or something else? I can’t find a good picture on the NH parts lookup website to compare to mine. And I’d want to check knife clearance of course after sharpening.
I’ve attached a few pictures of what the plunger knife edge looks like at the red arrows. 
I am trying to whip my 268 into shape. On the feeder, there is a part called a connecting link between the feed lever and the finger carriage. The New Holland part is a solid piece. On my baler, it is two pieces, overlapped about 2 inches and bolted together. I suspect the part was cut in two and put together that way in an effort by some previous owner to correct bale shape issues my running the feeder farther into the chamber, but it's possible that it is a part from a different machine designed this way. I think though that it may be causing shape issues now. My question is if someone can tell me the center to center length of that link. Perhaps someone has a baler and can measure it? The 273 and maybe others have the same part, it's NH part number 65983. I just want to be sure that I'm doing the right thing by reconfiguring mine by putting the pieces end to end instead of overlapping.
Also, the cam gear on one knotter is missing part of a tooth on one end of the gear that runs the twine disc pinion. Can I get away with that, or do I need to get it repaired by building up with braze or something?
Thanks in advance!
Mark
most of my fields are nice and flat river bottoms so i till and plant them...
but i have one field that has a lot of fescue and native grasses in it that is attached to a existing hay field.........but this field takes a lot of water off the rocky hills and then spreads it out as it flattens to a existing hay field (fan shaped).....so it has several water run of low areas in it ...so i want to leave the sod to control erosion (its small 3-4 acres)
i am afraid to till it as it would probably wash out in heavy weather.....so i am wondering about doing a burn down spray and then no-tilling seeding this fall brome/timothy/clover mix
my question is am i just fooling myself thinking i can no till seed in to dead fescue sod successfully after a burn down or a waste of energy?
i am open to thoughts and suggestions
I’m currently using 9000/130 twine in my NH 310 square baler. I’m looking to add various colours, but can’t get the same size and knot strength. I can access 7000/190, or 7000/210. My question is can I use these different types without making any adjustments to my baler knotter?
thanks.
Anybody running one of the newer Kuhn Haybob360? This is the combo rake/tedder unit. I don't have a strong Kuhn dealer around me that knows their stuff so looking for some input..
I currently run an old NH bar rake and looking to update to something that makes a better windrow. I borrowed the neighbors millerpro rotary rake. It did a nice job but I really had 2 issues with it. The first is you really cant turn sharp with it due to the long tongue and pto shaft. Second is you cant lift it up high enough to go over another windrow. I have a lot of small odd shaped fields so both of these issues make raking with it a real pain.
As much as 3 point equipment can be a pain it might be the best bet for my situation. I currently have a 1980s vintage Kuhn 3 point rake/tedder combo. It works well but is pretty well worn. It doesn't pivot at the hitch like I understand the new haybob does. Using a trailed mower followed by a 3 point tedder can make some funky corners.
The other issue with my current unit is that although it can rake it only rakes to the center of the 2 rotors so you cant move hay the entire width of the rake. My understanding is the haybob360 can move hay the entire width of the unit.
Anybody have one, or have a dealer that knows their stuff that I could call and talk to??
Thanks!
Hi everybody, How much HP do the NH H6740 need? 55 PTO work? Thanks in advance MHG
I may be showing my ignorance but, before I crawl into this older New Holland 326 small square baler to sharpen the knives, is there an easier way to access these knives than climbing over the pick up fingers and squirming my my way to them, or by doing the same through the bale chute? And, would it be better to unbolt these two knives and sharpen them on a grinder in the shop? I would appreciate knowing an easier way to access and sharpen these knives if there is one...
Vincent
I have a calf that will not suck the cow. He will suck my finger, but can't get him to suck the tit. Finally had to started drenching him twice a day. Are they any tricks that I can do to get him back on the mom. He really started to pick up after we started drenching him Saturday evening.
Looking for 5' edge to edge wrap for a JD 535. Deere dealer says none of the dealers in the area have it. Anyone know where to get it online or of a good alternative? Local store does have a Tama edge to edge in stock. Tama is who makes the deere stuff, do I just go with that?
How long should I wait to spray my new smooth brome field with 24-D to control weeds? Seeded the field 4 weeks ago.
Anyone utilize Precept on Bermuda grass hay or pasture. Is there any grazing restriction? I read the product label & it mentioned grazing restrictions on small cereal grains but not on grass.
Thanks, Jim
We have always planted Clair and Climax timothy. Pretty happy with the results, however, we have a new field we are going to put in timothy this fall so I thought I'd ask...
What is the most durable, long lasting timothy our there these days?
Just curious.
Thanks!
Bill
