Im just curious if anyone has experience this before? What caused it and how did you fix it? I havent submerged it either...
Thanks
2012 kubota RTV 1140 with 1523 hrs
Discolored transmission fluid? RTV 1140
We are looking for something to overseed into heavily winterkilled alf/OG field this spring. Located in Indiana, south of 70. We plan to establish new this summer after winter wheat, but must have something that will provide the most tonnage of beef quality forage to get thru this winter.
I have had this 1412 flail discbine for a couple of years now. I don't use it a lot. I use a regular disc mower most of the time. I even bought a dimpled hood sheet metal and I still can not see any conditioning to the stems of rye/fescue grass. Of course I have the hood adjusted as close to the flails as I can. I have 2 different design flails on the machine. I guess someone has replaced some of them with different styles. You can tell in the pics. the dimpled sheet metal on the hood is shiny right over where the cutterbar and disc blades meet. Is it working and do you see anything wrong?
Good morning all,
I am new to haying and to this site, although I have read a lot of great informative posts on here before joining. I live in Grants Pass, Oregon and hoping to get some advice from others in my area experienced with horse quality haying in this climate. One of my fields looks like it is ready to cut now. It’s seeded primarily with orchard grass and seed heads are up and starting to open on a stand about 24-30” tall.
We have had sunny dry weather in the low 70’s this last week and the forecast is for it to continue for the next 7-10 days with temps getting into the mid to upper 70’s. Humidity mid-day forecast in the 30-40% range and 50-60% range over night. We have had frost the last couple mornings and expect it will continue for a couple days longer.
Most people around here wait until late May to start haying. That could be due to weather conditions or because most fields around here are in the river valley bottom and potential mud bogs if accessed to early. I can drive on my fields year round, so that's not a concern.
All said, is it too early for my area?
Looking for forward to input.
Thanks,
Aaron
I need an owner's/repair/operator manual for a New Holland 580 baler. I haven't found anything online. There was one on ebay but it sold.
wdw
So...I forgot to skiv one end of a used belt while relacing. What are the consequences for running it as is? Clipper style laces on a belt that is probably past about half life. thanks.
This post might need to be in wall of shame?!?
I am very curious as to how many people modife there machines to sute there operation.
My latest was to Mod Krone 6 basket tedder. To work with old tractor that puts out to low of PSI to operate machine correctly.
My best one was to mod Kuhn twin rotary rake so I can back up rake. Use hydraulics for rear rake, and backup first rake like a trailer. I can backup rake into building no problem. Just not to fast low gear.
What have you done to make things better for your setup?
I have 4 acres next to my subdivided permanent pasture that I planted oats and timothy last year, then grazed a couple times. Fertility is OK per the soil test. I just had lime spread at the recommended rate.
My plan this year is to first graze off what timothy comes back, in May, then plant a warm season crop for mid summer grazing. In September I will re-plant a winter crop for grazing in early spring.
I am limited by equipment, money, and free time. My only equipment is a tractor, a light disc, and a broadcast spreader.
My plan is to disc the ground, then heavily broadcast Sorghum-Sudan and peas or soy. I might turn loose my little boys with the fleet of garden tractors to pack it in.
This method worked well enough in the past to grow sunflowers, oats, and a 7 acre hay field. I have never tried it with Sorghum-Sudan or soy. I don't even know how big Sorghum Sudan seed is.
I will probably spread Urea when I plant, maybe again after the first grazing. I do know Nitrate poisoning is a concern if I over do it, but I don't have a grasp of what over doing it means.
Is there a different crop I should try instead of Sorghum-Sudan? Pearl Millet and Sudangrass are the ones I see mentioned often. I want one crop going to give me two grazings by Labor Day, planted late May. BMR Sorgham Sudan should be ready to graze in 30 days, and regrow in 30 days. I also don't want to kill my herd.
I am in Western PA (near Punxsutawney) and my little herd is one milk cow, 12 total beef cows and calves, and three horses. I will keep the horses off of the annual pastures. The animals are used to rotational grazing.
Summary: can I get an acceptable stand of Sorghun-Sudan by broadcasting and discing lightly?
Anyone grown millet for forage or grain? I thought it was a warm season plant but I'll be danged if we don't have some volunteers growing where my wife has some bird feeders. Terribly hard ground there and gets no watering but it sure seems robust (probably 2 feet tall right now). I bet if it grows like that here, it must taste like garbage and nothing will eat it. Any experiences?
Hello new here, and looking for some information on Jiggs Bermuda. I have about 50 acres on the South East Texas Gulf Coast, and my soil is black dirt (clay almost). Planning on sprigging in Jiggs early next month. Was wondering if anyone could help me out with some questions:
1. How fast does it establish after sprigging under irrigation and fertilization?
2. At what height do you cut it normally?
3. How many cuts do you get off of it a year?
Anyone have experience w/ one of these no-till drills for overseeding/interseeding hay or pasture ground? Opinions? Value?
AgWeb.
Regards, Mike
https://www.agweb.com/article/r-calf-sues-tyson-cargill-jbs-and-national/
Anyone had any luck spraying autumn olives with GrazonNext? Got some future hayfields I want to keep under control, but there is a lot of autumn olive seeds/sprouts. Thought I'd like to use something with a residual.
Other than GrazonNext - do you have a herbicide of choice for autumn olive?
Thanks!
Howdy,
Ive been searching the web for hours now looking for a hay monster. Have any of you seen or do any of you have one of these? I am in the market for one!
My horse pastures (which total about 3 acres) have gotten pretty overgrazed in the center areas. I tested the soil last year, it was pretty depleted but I did give it heavy application of dairy manure afterwards. This spring the grass is being real slow to take off. Would it jump start it if I gave it some urea?
I have older tractor that only puts out 2000 psi. Hooked up the tedder today for first time and yes no tilt. Going to try one mod first before I have to spend another $900. To get it to tilt.
Lets see if I can get it to work on my own. It will be one of a kind if it works. I have a machine shop at my disposal. I THINK I CAN! LOL LOL
Hi, we sold our haybine and are going to buy a discbine. We are looking at a NH H7230, Vermeer MC3300, and MF 1366 all three with the drawbar swivel hitch, dealer support is good on all and I'll be doing any work myself. I know the MF is center pivot but what I am asking is what have you guys used and how what one seems to be better built?
Thanks, Luke.
Anyone know why the desk people who designed the Agratronics BHT-2 moisture tested don`t provide a break or coupling near the point of unhooking your baler? How idiotic? A guy can`t diddle with unplugging at the monitor every time you want to unhook baler, and then void the warrantee if you splice in a plug! Eeerrrrrr! I know, take a breath, right?
Help me figure this one out. I know that this bale of hay that I took the sample from (I know I should have taken samples from more than one bale), is what I would call loose. When I say loose I mean you would feel like you were walking on marshmallows in the hay mow. Which I hated as a kid to walk on hay put up in loose bales, hence I try to make tight bales (more like close to banjo strings tight). Tight bales are not so good of an idea when selling by the bale, but old dogs don’t always like to learn new tricks.
Back to the sampling of this hay, the hay kept winding up around the test probe as I drilled into it. Like it was what I would call tough hay (too damp to bale) and the hay was what I would call soft hay (for alfalfa). Perhaps it was conditioned with a macerator type conditioner. As I pushed the test probe into the bale I had to keep reversing the drill, to prevent wrapping around the outside of the probe.
Anyway, take a look at the results. I guessed at the protein content at being over 18-19% (came in at 20.35%). The thing that stands out to me is the moisture level at 23.78% (along with the RFV of 162 & RFQ at 183.2!!! ).
This sample was just taken on 4-6-2019, the hay has been stored inside stacked at least 6 high, no extra space between bales, for more than 6 months. Here in Michigan, it's hard to put up hay after the middle of Sept, but I even go with the first of November, storage is at least 6 months. I’m going to try to find out what preservative was used (and anything else, trick wise to make this hay).
As an FYI, I use Crop-Saver (buffered propanoic and citrus acid) but have never seen hay hold this much moisture for over 6 months, let alone not spoil.
I'm still trying to learn the more of the finer points of making quality hay.
Any thoughts, ideas or questions I should ask are welcome.
Larry
I looking at V rakes and have found a nice Ogden 8 wheel rake, what is the working width of an 8 wheel rake, I curently cut with a 9 ft John Deere MoCo, thanks.
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Greetings from Childers, Australia. I have a NH 568 in which, over time, we have had a 'love hate' relationship with each other. At the moment we are getting along ok and is producing a good bale although every 15 - 20 bales its seems to break a string just after the knott has been tied. Only ever on the right hand side.
Thoughts and suggestions of why this might be happening would be appreciated.
I have a field that I disked up, and plan on planting alfalfa with a oat cover crop. My agronomist recommended I just disk it, and not plow it up again this year. I don't think I am going to need to run a land leveler over it as we had got it fairly lever last year, but should I run a roller packer over it before I drill in the seed? I have a Melroe drill with the packer wheels.
Thanks in advance
Jay R.
Does anyone know where to purchase a 25 gal. electric Crop Care applicator kit other than P. Zimmerman?
I am searching for a 6715 hood to put on tractor. Would prefer to find a used hood that has all the parts insted of buying individual new parts.
PART NO AL178131.
Thank you.
Neighbor stopped by today.Had found a new calf without a tail and lacerations on rear legs.
I was told coyotes go for the throat and dogs go for the rea or flanks.
Any experience either way would be helpful.
Winter pasture area I usually drill sudan in it and kinda put them into it for a liitle bit in the summer . Thought I might change it up a little . Think I should stick with the sudan , go with millet , mix of the 2 , or something completely different ??????
It will be no tilled into the bale grazed area and strictly for pasture . I wont be cutting for hay or anything .
need help on procedure to do density recharge on my vermeer 605 m super baler not making tight bales and replaced everything else and this is my last thing to do had seen a pdf on member e220 before but i cant seem to find
Looking at getting a Tedder this year. Either a Krone or a Claas. Both seem well built, and sturdy. I have found more information on the krone, not much on the Claas. Claas is a little cheap, but not much. 4 basket is all I am looking for. Would consider a used one if someone can tell me what to look for as far as wear parts or issues.
thanks
Tom
How long do you prefer aging your beef, I am thinking somewhere between 14 and 21 days. I had read that there is not much difference in tenderness when aged longer than 14 days.
I burned down grass last Aug. planted OG in Sept , got a good stand, and this stuff came up during the winter.
I have a friend who is selling Generate and is suggesting I use it on my hay fields. I lime every fall and fertilize at least to soil sample recommendations if not higher in the spring and usually add a round of ammonium nitrate or coated Urea for 2nd/3rd cutting. My yield is 2.7 to 3 tons/acre with decent rain. Has anyone used Generate? I can't find a lot of information on the website, that I can understand anyway. What is the experience and would you recommend the expense?
I sprayed my bermuda fields back in March with glyphosate. I have not been impressed with the results. The only places in the field that show any pronounced effect were the tire tracks of the tractor.
What would have caused this?
Hey there,
I'm looking for replacement tension rollers for a Parmiter TR33 bale wrapper.
An online search is not yielding much. Any tips? Know a supplier in the us or canada?
(I'm on the west coast of Canada)
Thanks.
Hello; Just purchased a new Heston 1836 Baler. Does anyone have a "Rule of Thumb" in setting up the baler to make a 50lb bale @ 18% moisture or is this going to be a trial by error process. I grow alfalfa/orchard grass mix and have been making mini round bales with a Star 850 round baler. My customers like the light wt bales. Thanks..
Why do many of the big hay operators run several rotary swathers instead of something like the Krone Big M? We are a wheat and hay operation and I've gone from several combines in wheat to one really big one. Much less labor and only one machine to maintain. Is is the brand Krone? Or dealer support? Just curious mostly.
Any of you guys bale hay grazer? Big ranch in my area is planting lots of acres in hay grazer this year. What are the pros and cons of putting this course grass into a round bale. I may bale some of it. Should I go out and buy a conditioner or will I be able to use my rotary mower and then give it a little more time to cure before baling? I think it is kinda like johnson grass with big stalky base and stem. Thanks
I have a Hesston 4600 small square baler (1980 vintage) that I have been using for the past 10 years for baling grass hay. It seems to work ok but tends to produce oversize bales when the windrows get big (maybe 2-3 ft high and 3-4 ft wide). I try to make a 70 lb bale, 14 x 18 x 42 in long to fit into my bale wagon. I try to slow down or speed up to keep the intake full of hay to try to keep the bales a uniform wt and length. . It will take a lot of hay at the higher speeds, but I run the risk of plugging the intake or getting huge flakes and bales too long for the bale wagon. I have about 35 acres of irrigated grass hay and make 2 cuttings per year. Production varies from 75-100 ton per year. I'm thinking of upgrading to a Hesston 4550 or 4570 or a 4590 or possibly to a newer Heston 1838 or 1840.
The 4600 plunger has 92 strokes per min. The newer models have plungers with 100 strokes per min. I am wondering if the newer models will bale faster than the 4600 and allow better control of the bale length without reducing the speed so drastically. It probably wouldn't hurt to come into the 21 century with my equipment.
Am I thinking straight? Will I gain anything by upgrading?
I bale with a JD 6415 100 hp tractor.
Thanks for any input.
I was considering the purchase of a Kuhn speed rake with kicker wheel, but am unsure how it will rake heavy hay grazer and/or johnson grass. Anyone out there had experience with this set-up? What are you guys using to rake these types grasses? Thanks for any assistance.
I did another equipment upgrade and bought a Kuhn GF5000T 4 basket horizontal fold tedder. It's an older machine but is in great shape for its age and has seen very little acreage for the last 13 years, and I got it for a good price.
There are two pins farther up the tongue, they look like three point hitch pins but are not. What are these for? (pictured)
Also, there is a lever/spring pin on all the wheels for the caster lock. But there is second lever with a cam on the front of each wheel too. What is this for? Adjust throw angle?
I just purchased a new Holland 1069 stack wagon. What's the best kind of bale grabber I could get to load these bales out of the barn and onto customers trailers without having to do it all by hand?
One of our 2190 4x4 balers is about due for a new pair of tires. It is currently setup as a "big wheel" baler with single 28L-26's on each side. Instead of buying a pair of these, I would like to upgrade to tandem axles. Does anyone know where I might find a set of axles and the framework? Struck out with the Maize Corporation and Nyssa Tractor. Any other suggestions?
It's the same assembly used under 2170's (3x4) as well and I think 2270's and 2290's would also work.
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