anyone know if the follower roll on a br730 is rubber coated. my recollection is when i got it is the middle section had rubber on it. the dealer is looking at me like i am crazy. don't want to order a part i dont need. thanks all
If it's a problem what steps do hay producers take to control rodent damage to twine tied sq bales. My neighbor that produces/stores/sells a lot of grass sq bales asked me. He wants to change from wire to twine tied sq bales & was concerned about possible rodent damage to the twine.
Thanks,Jim
Hi everybody. Anybody know of a source for teeth for a Fransgard RV 390? In the US. Thanks MHG
While looking for a used flail mower for grass and brush cutting on my kubota m5 I found this:
Model SPF84K960LI5R (84" WITH Y STYLE BLADES)
What should I pay for this thing?
I originally offered 2500.00 but now after seeing the up close pics and under carriage it looks pretty well corroded up.
I have one low pasture that is extremely wet. I am curious if the low alkaloid type would be a good fit here. I can say that while i can't say that there is none around here as i probably would not recognize it if i saw it, I know that is is one of those things you either like it or hate it. Thoughts appreciated.
I recently purchased a New Holland 650 baler and giving it a once over before hay season. I'm new to belt roll balers as my previous baler was a New Holland 851. The question I have is with regard to the bearings on the rollers that the belts run on. I removed the belts to check the lengths and thought it would be a good time to check the bearings. I haven't check all of them but the ones I have checked the bearings do not spin real free possibly because a heavy grease is used in the bearings? Even as an assembly when you spin the rollers by hand they do not spin very free and do not turn very far when you stop trying to spin by hand. Is it safe to assume if the bearings aren't discolored from heat, inner or out races cracked, or sloppy loose that they are okay? I can run the baler and check the temperature of the bearings but not sure that is an accurate test with out a load (bale in the chamber). Would appreciate any help on this topic.
Regards,
Porky
I live in north Alabama. My crabgrass is poping up and i have alot of young Mares Tail. What can i use to control it? Will Sterling Blue word?
I hope this is the right place to post this and if not I apologize in advance if I'm wasting anyone's time!
I recently purchased a 275 gallon gravity dispensing tank on a stand at auction. It was a great deal. I've grinded off the rust and repainted it and now it looks amazing. My question is are these still legal to fill in Texas? I'm trying to decide if I just paint the block ATM on it and use it as yard art, or paint the block ATM on it and make it functional 
.
I can call the county ext agent or the local fuel supplier but they are always trying to sell me something.
Hi,
Looking at getting a round baler 5x6 or 5x5. Have been doing small squares for past 15 years want to move to doing some round bales. I have a 1086 International tractor (130hp) that would be pulling it. I would be doing 50-60 tons a year of hay, that amount will slowly increase in the next years. It is mostly dry ground hay part is flood irrigated land also. I am in west central MT. If you want to know closer area look at which city does not have any major equipment dealers in it. Mostly grass hay with some being a aflaf mix hay. Does not really matter if the baler is net or twine as I will be keeping the hay for my self, but net wrap would be nice. Looking for a good one that is less than $7,000. Brand does not matter as all our dealerships are 1.5 to 2 hrs. away. I know there are a thousand variables to take into account when getting new equipment I would just like to know what you guys think and get a general direction that I should move towards. Any help you can give would be great.
There are four round balers that are near me that are in my budget a Case IH(New Holland) RBX562 twine only problem is guy say it roll it belts so it became there back up baler, there is also two Vermeer 605xl baler for sale one twine and one net wrap, and a John Deere 535 twine and net wrap.. Any ideas on these three models?
I have a couple small areas of what I think is Brassica weed in my grass hay. It is in bright yellow flower right now. I would like to stop it before it goes to seed (may be too late already). What herbicide will do the job, spot spraying?
As a rule of thumb, I use one ounce of liquid herbicides per gallon h2O in backpack sprayers for spot spraying with just a light mist of spray, not watering or letting it run off. that works pretty well for most stuff. Have to spray some buttercups in flower with Weedmaster (recommended at 3 pts per ac). Anyone hazard a guess as to what that is per gallon, I am guessing going to 1.5 ou will do it at my rate of application, but just curious. Thanks
I contracted about 1/2 my July wheat crop at $7.07 yesterday. May turn out to be a mistake, but I believe that's the highest wheat has been since I've been growing it. Anyone else watching this market?
I am looking at purchasing a Kuhn GMD 500. Just wanted to make sure my tractor would handle it. I have a John Deere 5105. Its a heavy tractor but only about 45 PTO hp. Any experience would be appreciated. I usually mow around 40 acres 3 times a year. Most of which is completely flat.
A friend of mine wants a recommendation for a chipper shredder. I say the combo since I know he will want to shred small stuff as well as larger. Has a 35 ac property, guessing about 15 acres with woods and the housesite is wooded. Just had a bunch of walnut harvested with lots of branches left. Has a JD 52 hp E series with hydro. Anyone know a good chipper shredder to recommend to him? I will send him to Cummings Brickner as well but thought I would ask for thoughts here. Thanks. r
What would be the easiest way to repair the top shaft synchronizers? I was thinking hoist the rear of the cab and roll out the trans from the rear. Would the rockshaft and trans pump need to come off as well or will it come out with only removing the front side bearing race?
The mower bed doesn't lift fully on the left side. The mower has two hyd cylinders, 2 1/4" dia. on the right and 2 1/2 " on the left. The left side won't fully retract, even when I disconnect it from the mower and manually try to get it retracted. With both disconnected, the cylinders extend the same length - ie, it's like they are slightly out of phase. I've taken apart the left cyl and everything is fine. There is a pressure relief valve in the system - see diagram, but I'm not sure it's purpose.
Diagram.pdf 15.98KB 1 downloadsI’m new here and looking forward to learning from everyone’s experience.
So a little history, I have an 80 acre place in NE Texas. My father and I ran cattle on it until he passed away about 12 years ago. Since then I have leased the pasture to others. The place has not been taken care and I did not renew the lease at the end of last year. It has had cattle on the place and it has not been cut / mowed / shredded in probably 10 years. Lots of weeds, but use to have nothing but good grass. The place is so rough you can't go faster than idle speed in a truck. I want to turn it into a smooth hay pasture.
I grew up working cattle and horses, not farming, so I am getting a little out of my comfort zone. My uncle is a rancher and farmer and I have got a lot of good advice from him, and he is very familiar with the land, but wanted to reach out to this forum as well. My uncle said I needed to wait until winter to shred the place and then come back and disk it in both directions while dragging a hire. I asked about seeding or spraying and he said the place had and probably still does have good grass. Need to cut the weeds and growth down so the grass can grow and disk it to smooth out and aerate the land. He said to let it go a year and then determine if we need to spray or seed it.
So I was able to shred most of the place in late January. The place is divided into three meadows. I disked and then cross disked one meadow in early April. I was fortunate and got a lot of rain the following week. This is a weekend thing for me and I am only able to get out there about every third weekend, so I realize this may take a long time to get it where I want it.
So now my first of probably many questions. I feel like I have lost my window to disc the rest of he pasture until fall. If I understand correctly, you want to disc when the grass is dormant. If I disc while the grass is growing in the spring and summer I may kill more grass than help it. Is this correct or can I disc any time of year and not harm the grass?
I am grateful for any input form everyone's experience.
Thanks
I am new to hay making (in fact I am a citidiot that has never made a bale 😳) and realize what I am proposing is next to impossible. I only have 5 cows so my hay spoils before the girls can eat a large round or square bale. I have bought a Case 8420 and a shrink wrapper with the objective of baling green hay to make Baleage. My girls have been eating preserved hay all winter and love it until it goes bad in a few days. I have read online the Case 8420 / Hesston 530 do not like to bale anything but very dry hay. My baler has very heavily wore / smooth belts and I was wondering if I replaced them with new belts with the deeper ribbed / chevron design it would improve the odds of being able to make green bales without constant clogging or jamming. Flame away 🤔 looking to all you experts for direction on what I might work and if the belt replacement is worth the money and effort.
Just curious about what the Jones do out there. Steel framed and sided kicker wagons. Do you repaint on a schedule or let them start to rust. It seems to me that if you are going to do a comprehensive job, you have to disassemble and paint each component, then touch them up after putting them back together. Been thinking about it for over a year. Certainly must help hold value if you are going to sell in the near future. However, is it worth the pain?
So like the title says, I have quite a bit of unpriced corn sitting in the bins yet and today its $6.42 at the ethanol plant.
Best use of it is upgrading/adding more precession controls far as I’m concerned.
After a bit of searching found two Agleader Incommand 800’s with 7500 antennae's as a bundle. Can get on the local RTK network with digifarm no problem. What I absolutely cannot find is a Steady Steer or Ontrac3 unit to save my life. Even a Ontrac 2 plus would work I’m told.
If anybody knows of a unit or recently upgraded I’d be interested in your older one.
Only need one steering system for this year and that will go on the corn planting tractor, I have the other stuff coming required to run the JD air drill but with no data yet no need for auto steer on that one.
anyone know of a flexible spout (like the ones on the old 2.5 gal fuel cans that is sized for the regular one gallon oil containers. I use Plus 50 JD oil and both of my oil fill access points were designed by and engineer having a bad day. One of those spouts that you could screw on leak tight at the threads would be great. I did an internet search but came up empty. Seems like an obvious thing to have. Thanks.
I have a nice gentle Hereford cow that had a vaginal prolapse before she calved. Took her into the vet two days ago, and he sowed her up; he told me to watch her and just before she calved to cut the suture. He also gave her a shot to induce labor, so I was up several times during the night two nights ago to check on her. Finally after keeping an eye on her all day yesterday she finally had some vaginal discharge, got her into the chute and got it cut, and two hours later she finally had a nice Hereford calf. Of course it was 10pm by this time, and I still had to get her into the chute to give her a shot of some to that was to cause her uterus to contract. It was a little bit of challenge to get into the chute in the dark, but not to bad. I am sure glad she was not one of those that would rather run you down and grind your bone into the dirt. I do have a few of those that I plan on getting rid of at some point.
Would it be possible that she could have this same problem next year. I am think I should get rid of her this fall.
So I purchased a Dove mix I planned on putting in the ground early April but then had knee surgery and had to postpone planting. Now looking at the weather forecast it doesn't look like there is a decent shot at rain until 5/13. My question is, should I go ahead and plant or wait until a couple of days before forecast rain? The seed is still in a climate controlled storage unit. Thanks!
Just in Time for the Season!
Wireless temperature probes
The temperature probes manufactured by the American company Haytech or the Québec-owned Novations AGL allow alerts to be sent directly to your smartphone when the temperature of hay bales in storage rises past a given threshold. The experts at Sollio Agriculture see these technologies as important innovations with the potential to save barns and even lives.
New member and first time posting on this website. I have always gathered a great deal of information from reading past forums/books and listening to the more experienced, so i am all ears and need some help. I bought a small farm that has a 9 acre alfalfa field, with some grass mixed in. Previous owner let the field go and it was overrun with weeds last year. I had a local farmer bale it up and i let him have it. I was trying to figure out last fall what i could do with the field, and with no sort of tillage equipment. I had a local company spray the field with round up (RR Alfalfa) to kill off any winter annuals, in early March i planted 110lbs/acre of Goliath oats to get at least one decent yield off the field this year. Plan is to cut the oats and bale it, then till down the alfalfa and replant oats this fall again until spring to where i can replant alfalfa back in the field. (6 month rest for auto toxicity to break down). Now to get to my point. My oats shot right up and are around 4 inches and my alfalfa came in a little thicker than i expected but now i have a field full of shepherds purse. Everything that i have read seems to point towards this not being a good mix at all in my hay so, what should i do? I cant put round up down or 2-4-d because of the oats/alfalfa. My thought would be just to cut my loss with the alfalfa this cutting and bush hog this shepherds purse down, maybe giving the oats a chance to catch up and out pace the weeds, or do i just completely cut my loss and put herbicide down. Thank you for any input!
Very new to the forage/cattle business. Helping my widowed 86 yr old Mother-In-Law after I retired from 45 years in "white collar" work and relocating to my MIL's home. It's like this: Three months ago I couldn't spell "farm hand" and now I am one.
That being said, MIL has asked that spray the cross-fence lines between the pastures and the hay fields. They haven't been sprayed in several years.
I've been provided GlyStar Plus and Remedy Ultra.
I have a 4-wheeler, a 20 gal tank sprayer, a full tank of gas, and a positive attitude.
After reading the directions on each of the herbicides, my plan is to mix about 1.5 qt of GlyStar Plus and about 12 oz of Remedy Ultra into the sprayer tank, add the 20 gal of water, and have it, after donning appropriate safety gear short of a full-on Level 1 biohazard suit (which I am infinitely more familiar with...).
Does this sound correct?
Do I need to add a surfactant?
What am I missing?
Thanks for any/all help.
Hi All,
I've been reading here all winter and am finally ready to get some equipment. I have just moved to a new farm and will be working 70 acres of hay. Will be making dry round bales and possibly balage in the years to come. Flat and open with large fields. No rocks. Central NY. The forage is 1/4 predominantly alfalfa, and the other 3/4s are a brome mix. The alfalfa stand is pretty recent seeding, but I don't think I'll continue it once the grasses take over.
There is some equipment here that the owner is selling, but I'm thinking it might be a bit much and/or not fit my overall needs for the cost.
My questions lies in how much do I need, as well as can afford, and be able to work comfortably. Speed is good, but I'm not a go fast type, would rather be a little slower on the tractor honestly.
I have another full time job, and the cow herd and making hay are 'on the side'.
What the owner has now:
JD 936 MoCo with impellers
Vermeer 504i Silage Special
Kuhn GA 4100 Single Rotor rake
Kuhn GT-500 Tedder
Tractors:
JD 4440 (144 HP ~130 PTO HP)
JD 2940 (82 PTO HP)
Another larger JD of the same era that's 150-160 HP
I was leaning towards none of the tractors, but instead a '04 JD 5420 Cab with loader (81 HP 67 PTO HP) for versatility to move bales, scrape the winter paddock, move compost, feed bales, etc. It think it should pull the rake, tedder, and baler without trouble, but I think the MoCo would be a bit much? Any thoughts?
If it is too much, I was wondering about going with a disc or drum mower without conditioner, since I'll be tedding no matter what and will be phasing out the alfalfa soon. Some friends around here do so and cut 400 acres yearly. How large of a drum or disc mower could I run with the JD 5420? Or would you rather suggest a discbine that is not as wide? I'd be happy to have the drum or disc mower for clipping pastures and field edges too which is an incentive.
Also thinking that the 936 MoCo would be more costly than just a disc or drum mower and not be worth it for what I'm going for.
How do these various pieces fit together regarding widths? I'd like the for example the rake and tedder to evenly cover one or 2 mowed windrows.
OR would you suggest sticking with the 936 MoCo and jumping up to a larger tractor? Seems like quite a jump to go to a say 130 hp tractor from an 80, not sure it will pencil out. Seems like the larger tractor would be at least twice the cost ($30k more) and the MoCo would be $3k - $6k more than a disc or drum mower. Maybe that's better invested in larger and better rake and tedder? I'd be open to other tractor models too, not just what is here for sale.
All the equipment is in good condition, but the tractors have a lot of hours on them. I am not mechanically inclined but make do.
I hope that makes sense. Thanks for any feedback!
Any thoughts on a krone fortima 1500MC round baler that throws a B33 error code? The manual mentions this is the twine stop sensor. Cannot figure out how to get the code to go away. So far, I replaced the sensor.
I've read the label and i'm not clear about whether it will stop ryegrass and crabgrass from germinating neither of which i want. Just want to stunt fescue long enough for both grass to get a jump. I have not planted either yet and want to spray 1/10 oz per acre to stunt the fescue as well as knock out the broadleafs those that it will. Would i be safe to spray and plant 2-3 days later?
I just small square bale my hay currently and hire out big baling, would like to get into my own big baler, is a 467 really worth the extra money(roughly double) vs a 435? Both with net wrap. Would do roughly 2-300 bales of hay and straw a year, maybe 1/3 of them as silage bales. Also maybe another 50-100 bales of corn or soybean stalks in the fall. Would get the 467 but hate to spend twice the money on something that would get used so little. Baling for mostly my own use, and do all my own wrenching.
Thanks
Who uses what? I'm thinking about switching over to mower/tedder from the traditional mower/conditioner here. My main concern is some heavy Canary Grass and Garrison Foxtail, which comprises the bulk of our hay. In my thinking, I should actually speed up the drying process with a mower/tedder, since it's spread over a bigger area. There's a lot of times I have a stand that's 7+ feet tall and the resulting windrows are huge and take a few days to dry. In that time, it's not uncommon to have the top 90% dry and the bottom still wet. Seems to me that spreading it out and then tedding should make that dry more evenly and quicker?
What's the consensus out there, and have any of you switched over ?
John
I need to spray some herbicide on my hay field and I don't want to harm any bees. Anyone have any info on some thing I shouldn't use? May something like 24d or dicamba that I should use.Thanks.
Hi there - I have really appreciated all the information on this forum over the years, but this is my first post.
We just bought a 4-5 year old Krone 42T rake. As I went to hook up the PTO shaft after towing it home, I found that the driveshaft running through the hollow body has about 1/2" of play forward and back. I am wondering if this is normal or not.
The rake is quiet when running, but it has a bit of a "thunk" at start up, even with a "slow start" PTO on the tractor.
Now I am also noticing a 3" hairline crack in the casting where the pinion gear sits (it runs across the pinion shaft). And when I look in the breather hole I do not see any lubricant (although it is hard to see) and the teeth are not perfect.
So - if there is endplay in the driveshaft, does that suggest that the pinion gear is able to move, and therefore come out of alignment with the ring gear. Am I going to chew up my ring gear as soon as I start raking hay?
Or is this all normal and the "thunk" is just play in the system? Our Kuhn certainly has a thunk if you don't ease the PTO on.
Overall, I am excited about the Krone - it does seem heavily built! I looked at Kuhn, NH, Claas, and Kubota. The Claas seemed very nicely designed, but nothing used. We have been happy with the Kuhn, but again, nothing used. The NH and Kubota seemed lightly built, and were still more money than the Krone which looks great - but of course I did not see that hairline crack until I had it home.
Thank you for any insights!
Im looking for a used swing tongue discbine of some sort. It will mainly be a back up machine but could potentially see a fair amount of acres. All grass, maybe some cane hays as well. We've only had self propel machines so I'm not to familiar with pull types. We have a new holland discbine that is decent in grass hay but not the best in light hay. I'd like to keep it under 15k if possible. 16' wide would be preferred but it looks like anything in my price range would be 13' and under. New holland, case, john deere dealers all fairly close. I'd appreciate any thoughts on a reliable machine. Thanks
I found 2 old 107 haybusters in my area. These are 1982 models according to the serial numbers. The issue is the bottom part on the hopper it rusted out. the part number and part names are 8400010 1 Hopper Center Section and 84000009. These drills will not work without these, I called Haybuster and they don't have these anymore and have not sold one for over 10 years. My question is there anyone out there that restores these things where i might find used parts? I'm not having much luck finding anything online.
I have been looking for info on whether this is possible--using a standard round baler for high moisture baleage. I purchased a new Vermeer 605R Classic in 2020. It worked like a champ in the first season.
I ran into a customer that inquired about making high moisture bales. I have not done this before so have been researching it. It sounds like there are components (scrapers) that help to prevent material wrapping on the equipment that are needed or are useful. I've heard on some some guys still being able to do it. The dealer basically said don't do it, but I think that is just the standard response as they are just as unfamiliar with the process. There is not much high moisture hay done locally, but this idea is intriguing since in East TX we battle high humidity and unexpected showers constantly in trying to cure out hay.
The talk about heavier bales needing heavier components (bearings, rollers, etc.) doesn't make sense to me. Last year I baled 2/3 of the bales as 4x5s and 1/3 as 4x6s. From my calculations the 4x6s of dry hay would be heavier than a 4x5 of baleage.
Anxious to hear others' experiences and thoughts.
Howdy everyone,
I'm a real neophyte to all this herbicide/pesticide stuff but I've learned enough to ask questions first! I've picked up my neighbors field and intend to plant alfalfa but, I found out from my agronomist that previous tenant used Resicore herbicide 2 1/2 pints (I assume that is per acre) on 6/13/2020. Agronomist seemed to think that at that dosing level (without too much overspray) that I may be fine to plant alfalfa. From the Resicore label reading I've done that doesn't quite add up. What says you guys?
Next question: what does a guy plant in the interim? I'm looking for some hay crop that ideally I can sell to my horse folks.(oh, and I know- straight up alfalfa for horses? Ya that's what they want, lots of competition people want "Jacked up hay") Any ideas for a Minnesota annual crop?
Thanks in advance for your help
Brad
My vet said ivermectin and noromectin were similar to Kool-aid. He suggested using ivomec only. Does anybody have any experience with this?
Over the last several years, I have overseeded some of my orchard grass with two different fescues, martin tepek and Teton. The Tepek is good endophyte, the teton has none. I have one or two areas that have really thickened up and I believe it is due to the teton but I am not sure.
Which forage fescues have you had the best luck with in the mid atlantic region?
So I'm new to raising alalfa and I was just wondering when is the best time to fertilize alfalfa? I've read a lot of different things and I've seen some people fertilize after the first cutting after alfalfa. I'm in Idaho and will only get three crops. Any thoughts on whether I should fertilize now before the first cutting? Or am I okay to wait until after the first cutting?
Good morning,
I am in the process of selling my 2002 new idea 5209 and getting a new discbine. So far I have looked at the Kubota DMC8032T, NH 210, Vermeer MC3300, and MF 1373. I do not have pricing on the Vermeer, but the others are all in the 24-25k range. All dealers are within 50 miles. My hay is mostly fescue.
I like everything I see about the Kubota but I can’t find anyone who is running one and can comment on their experience. The MF is hard to get right now, have to order and would not arrive until summer. Heard nothing but good about it however.
anyone have any experience or thoughts with any of these discbines? Thanks
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It smokes like heck. Worse, the throttle/HST linkages are fubared and no one will fix it due to the engine problem. "We stopped when we saw the engine problem!"
[ATTACH...Hi - Brand new here! We have some family land (~40 acres in KS) where a portion has been used for Hay production in the past. We would like the land to be used, in some capacity and would be nice to have some income from it.
It might also be possible to run cattle on it, but would need new fencing for that I would assume. It has a creek and pond on the property.
Does it make sense to get a Farm appraisal on the land to find out what all it could be used for? Or just find a local leasing agent who? I had no trouble finding an appraiser, but how would I go about finding the right type of leasing agent?
Any help or insight is much appreciated!
Looking at 2 basket rotary hay tedders. Our operation is small, just doing hay for our 2 horses so 15-16 large rounds per year unless neighbor wants to do more. Our hay field soil is plenty damp so tedding is a must most years. Our neighbor cuts/conditions and wheel rakes for us, but only has a H&S bat tedder which is just a small step better than nothing. To be honest most any model rotary should do well for us, but I like nice stuff so investing in a quality tedder that is overkill on build is not an issue. Locally I have a dealer with Esch. Another dealer had Kuhn units coming in. I have seen the Enorossi at less than $3k, the Pequea at mid $3k, Kuhn at just under $4k.
I would like to run behind my Deere 3720 CUT. No concerns on HP with 44 engine and 35 pto. The drawbar is quite low though so I use a drawbar on my Imatch to run the manure spreader. This puts teh pivot quite a ways back from the PTO coupling. Alternate tractor: neighbor uses small Deutz (3006?) for stuff like this.
Esch 2009: Looks pretty sturdily built, but the rotor gears are open grease and I’m not sure I like that.
Enorossi Vortex G2V: Look OK but the price being so cheap and the build looks somewhat frail. The PT version (mounted) might not be back if it follows the quick hitch pattern like Imatch.
Pequea 26: This one really intrigues me, BUT I have read a lot of forum threads saying that these can be temperamental. Not sure if this has changed in recent years?
Vermeer TD100: I like the hook tine concept, but unfortunately the smaller units have std tines and no hydraulic
Kuhn GF222T: Strong reputation, not much detail about construction or what sets them apart. The odd offset pto shaft routing is a concern as well. Looks like they combined the RH side gearboxes or at least mounted together.
Krone: No 2 basket modles?
I’d like a the convenience of hydraulic tilt so I can set the mechanical stop and leave it or tweak rather than crank fully to transport, somewhat compact unit. I’d really like the hook tines based on what I have read. I wonder if they could be used on other mfr tedders? Looks like they use a different arm attach angle.
Storage: The Pequea with its minimalistic guards looks like it would take up the least space in a tight shed. If the hitch could be folded up out of the way better yet.
Been doing some thinking after today’s baling activities which is never a good thing. Who makes a good solid two spinner tedder? Something that can handle a heavy windrow if need be and scatter a windrow as wide as possible. Would have to be something available as used, not worth investing the money in new one.
Looking for a used one, Part is pricey through Agco Any leads?
Never seen so many Massey Balers in one place at auction . Chalkers has them . What wrong with these balers ,some look newer ,paint isn’t wore ?
Balers from all over
Starting to farm the wifes family place. New seeding of alfalfa coming later in the month. Have purchased a Case 8830 swather (14ft header) a New Holland 426 baler, and a Hesston 3950 rake.
Any hints or tips on what to look for as problems on these machines???
Not new to putting up hay, but has always been my employers equipment, and have always had a guru around....
I have recently leased 52 acres for hay it has had cows for the last 25 years. It was over grazed and neglected so most of what is left is weeds. I plan on sewing this fall with fescue but I need something that will make hay this summer. The property is in North Alabama. I do not have a conditioner just disc mowers and a tedder. Is there anything i can drill and still use my current equipment.
