I am assuming the red one is pto light. It has a gear with a clockwise arrow at the bottom of the gear. I have a shop manual for this but it does not give any info on these lights.
Any help would be appreciated.
Kubota x900 indicator lights
I have a jd 557 I've been stopping the PTO to dump a bale should I be?
I have a field of newly fall seeded alfalfa/grass that needs some attention. I though I had gotten rid of the pennycress, was wrong. Worked the heck out of the ground last fall to get it leveled up and seem to have germinated a new flush of the stuff. Any suggestions on what to use for a herbicide?? THANKS!!
Hi to All,
I am working with my neighbor doing hay. We used to do small square bales. We switched to doing round bales. At first a friend was coming over and doing the bales for us. He was using netting to warp the bales. Last year, my neighbor got a real good deal on a Krone KR125. The hay pickup roller was messed up. I did the rebuilding of the baler. As far as we can tell the thing is not a very good shape now.
Now using it. This thing uses twine. Having a real hard time with the twine wrapping around the bale properly. A lot of time the twine wraps around the hay pickup roller. Sometimes it does it correctly, but it's not often. When we first used it, there was twine in there. It was heavier stuff, when it ran out we put supposedly twine for a round baler. We did this for second cut and a lot of bales only had twine on half of it. It was a real headache to bales what we had. I know the twine is feeding properly. The mechanism all seems to work. Don't have a big field that we do, but it was a real pain to wrap the bales with the plastic. We are doing haylage now.
I pickup hay, when the bale density indicator shows a good bale. I stop and backup about 10 feet. Then I activate the twine. I tried with lower rpm and faster. That does not seem to make a difference.
Anyone with experience with this type of setup would be great. Hay season is coming soon again, my neighbor counts on me to to do this.
Thank you.
If you are like most people in the Deep South, me included, you feed it a ring or rack. However, I've been watching a guy on youtube lately named Greg Judy and he feeds his by rolling it out. Now, I know that the most common answer to that is you are going to lose a lot do to standing, manure, and urine but as he says that's good for his pastures because of what it does to the pasture by putting down free fertilize and Carbon into the ground. Just curious on y'all's thoughts.
Thanks,
Bo
I own a 535. I've done enough maintenance on it I'm starting to consider myself somewhat familiar with these. I'd prefer to make 4' bales over 5' bales so I've been keeping my eye out at the auctions. A 435 just came up locally. Everything looks pretty good on it except there was no fluid in the twine pump and it smelt a little burnt under the cap. I was able to crack the filter open and some darkish fluid came out. As I think about how much I'd be willing to spend, what's the worse case scenario here? Could it be just as simple as replacing the twine pump? Assuming the pump is bad/leaking. Wasn't sure if the potentially bad pump and contaminated fluid could have ruined other stuff. The pumps are currently $700+ with a Deere part number. I've heard tales of being able to use a 70s/80s GM power steering pump. If that's true anyone have a part number for that one?
It's got the French made netwrap system on the back, any issues with those? Forgot to grab the baler serial but I'm guessing it's going to be an earlier model.
To me there is nothing more ugly in a hay roll or growing in a field than queen anne lace, thistles and Plantain. I just got through spraying DuraCor on my Fescue hay fields.I thought it would control everything.
I did the Plantain but not the queen anne. I see where Grazon Next may control it. Since i have already used DuraCor. Can i spray anything else now? If not now how about after the first cutting in about a month?
I've been using First Defense boluses on new born calves for the past 8? years. I can't say enough good things about it. Somewhat spendy at just over $7 a pill, but saving just one calf makes it worth it.
I only have 3 pills left from last year, so I'm trying to get some more, as I will start calving in 4 weeks. Every store around here is sold out. I looked online too and every place I looked says they're backordered. Does anyone on this site know of a comparable product? I would like to stay with a bolus.
Paul N
I have a BR740 and last year I added a Selmech dry granular applicator to apply Culbac hay preservative. It works great and I have several customers that are requesting that I use it on all of the hay I bale for them this year. The issue is I am looking for a better place to mount the applicator, right now it is mounted above the net wrap door and the problem with this is the drop tubes are routed down in front of the door and into the pickup, so every time I need to change a roll of net wrap I have to disconnect the drop tubes to get the door open. I am thinking of moving the applicator back and routing the drop tubes between the sledge rolls and the net wrap box. The only problem I see with this is the drop tubes will have to be left high enough for the duckbill to clear them when wrapping.
I'm wondering if anyone else has mounted a dry applicator to a new holland net wrap baler, and if so where is it mounted and how are the drop tubes routed.
Thanks
So I disked about 5 acres a few weeks ago and will be going back on April 9th to plant a Dove Mix so that come September my family and I might get in a few Dove hunts. The small field is located adjacent to a 4 acre lake (pond). My thoughts are to go back over the area with a light disking then drag a harrow over it to smooth it out as best I can. I will then spread seed and finish up with the harrow. The disk, harrow, and spreader are the only things I have at my disposal to do the job. Fortunately I'm not trying to plant anything to sale! If this works, great, if not, well it just cost a little time, money, and it was great therapy! Any ideas as to what I may do differently?
Does anyone have any experience with the relatively new inline square baler by Maschio? It has a 105 stroke plunger speed and is suppose to be really high capacity. We have a Hesston 4550 and it is a great baler but I just need more capacity. Pls. reply if anyone can help me with this info.- thanks in advance.
hi- I want to seed 6 acre hayfield ( just bought it was in beans) I also was to seed about 25 acres of horse pastures. Is something like a Deere 8300 grain drill what I want? I see Deere 8300 gran drills for 1,500 to 2,500. or do i need one of the Brillion seeder packers? Thanks!!!
or
I recently had my Alfalfa sprayed with an Insecticide for aphids and Warrant herbicide for broadleaf control both mixed together for one application. The mixture burned the Alfalfa leaves. This is the second year on the stand the alfalfa is around 10 inches tall. My question is will the alfalfa recover and grow out of this ?
Thank, You
We have 8-10 acres in native grasses (north central Texas - I am not sure what varieties are there) and some coastal bermuda. We want to encourage the grasses that are there before considering planting something else. We would like to develop a nice pasture for our horses (only have two) and get some hay off of it. Most will probably be sold. Is applying weed killer and fertilizer in the next month a good first step?
Typically I read folks put down 30 actual pounds of fertilizer per acre after first cut - going into second cut.
To simplify this discussion, if the rate were 46 actual pounds, and urea 46-0-0 were used - you would need to put down 100 pounds per acre to achieve 46 actual pounds of nitrogen applied.
I was talking to our coop about this and he made it sound darn near impossible to dial back their buggies or trucks to a rate of 100 lbs per acre of 46-0-0 to achieve 46 actual pounds. So I looked at my new Kubota spreader and the settings for 100 lbs bulk fertilizer are near the lower limit - so much so that they recommend blocking off 2 of the 3 outlets to allow the 3rd outlet to be opened further and prevent clogging.
So I'm curious - what fertilizer you are using on second cutting hay, i.e. 46-0-0, how many actual pounds you're putting down in bulk, i.e. 100 lbs 46-0-0 to achieve 46 actual pounds of fertilizer AND how do you back your fertilizer spread setting down or if it will even go this low without clogging. What is your MPH crossing the field when fertilizing. Our limit is 4.3 MPH due to our irregular/lumpy fields.
Just curious.
Thanks!
Bill
Need to replace bearings in this 4 basket italian tedder, Removed supports, and all case bolts, separates slightly but that's it. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for any response
I'm brand new to hay farming and want to grow hay on a 6 acre field. I'm trying to get alittle independance from buying. I started with a field that was comletely lost to a very thick infiltration of weed. Field was 5 feet high. I mowed it and waited until it started to grow back and then burnt it with roundup. There was some straglers that I uses 2-4D on. I then ripped the field since it was clay soil followed by a deep tilling. Got my soil samples back and the numbers are good enough for now. I planted 50 % orchard 30% timothy rye and Kentucky blue The snow has just left us and the field since we are in upstate NY. The field currently looks like a lawn. My question is: when should I do the first mowing ? Is there any rule regarding mowing hay after the first planting? I don't need the hay at this time. Should I let go longer than baling height be let it thicken up? Any and allsuggestions will be appreciated. ...rookie here.
I'm looking at some different ways to expand and grow my straw operation this summer. Last year we baled about 9000 small squares of wheat straw, but I had some trouble selling it in a timely fashion. I think the problem was that it was baled in a rotary combine so it was short, chopped up straw and not a lot of horse guys wanted it. I know I have a market for the long straw bales, I just don't have a straw walker combine to harvest the wheat. Does anyone on here know anybody with a straw walker combine that would harvest about 60 acres of wheat this summer? Or possibly rent? Just trying to think of all my options. I'm located in Greensburg In.
I'm looking at a 2005 JD 530 MoCo with intentions of purchasing. Can anyone tell me any major differences between the 530 and 630? Is a 5085 JD gonna have have enough HP to pull it? the biggest question is will impellor type be sufficient for johnsongrass?
I converted a farmall f-12 to a diesel and want to turn up the fuel pump, I forgot what engine model it is but i know its a 4-cyl waukesha have no idea what year.
Hi, I have for sale my new MChale baler parts for half price for anyone interested in writing.(caniexpressz@gmail.com)
Had a bearing go bad in the main gearbox. I've pulled it apart to replace it but I need help setting the backlash and i am unsure of the placement of he large ring spacer on the vertical gear and the seal that is beside it. In the drawing these parts are 32(spacer) and 2(seal). Should those two fit tight between the two bearings? Also in the parts diagram i see several different thicknesses of shims listed for parts 6 and 4 how do I choose the correct shim.
I'm restoring an MF 12 I bought last season. It makes nice bales, but the plunger does not move smoothly (can't spin the flywheel easily). Pulled it out and saw that the hard rubber pads on the bottom are totally trashed including some of flat-head retaining screws which will have to be drilled out. Any ideas as to what I can replace these pads with if I can't find factory parts? Thanks for any advice...
Specifically, a NH162 4 star tedder, but actually this question could quite possibly apply to many different tedders. On a 162, all 4 wheels can be in the "normal" position, OR, they can be flipped around to a 'forward" position. This forward position seems to angle the the tedder tines at a steeper angle to the ground, theoretically enabling the tedder to throw the hay higher in the air at discharge. The operators manual is not much help on this other than stating the wheels can be angled to the forward position. So, the question is -Do you angle the wheels forward for tedding and if so, I assume the benefit would be better distribution of the hay?
Hey all, looking for some seasoned, objective advice on what direction to head on a farm. My dad has about 85 acres currently in row crop that he rents out. I run about 9 head of cattle on pasture, and do a few acres of small squares on the headlands. I got my agronomy degree, ended up in a totally different field, and feel the draw to get into farming on the side of my current full time job. I'm trying to come up with a plan that will give me my fix, put a few bucks in my pocket, yet not eat up all my spare time (been down that road before with another business, and have 3 kids). The current renters are aware I am wanting to do something, and have been very helpful. I've penciled out row crop, but that doesn't leave me much to do besides planting due to equipment cost. I've always had an interest in hay, part for doing something different here where the majority of ground is row crop, and partly because I'd like to feed my own cows, and be more in control of what I'm growing and selling. My big sticking points seem to be time involved (my job schedule is pretty flexible), storage, and if the market is present. I'm currently setup with a IH 656D, a 350 9' sickle bar mower, a NH super 68 baler and a NH 56 rake. I have limited storage in a barn at my dad's, but will be putting up a 36x45 this year. I'll list a few ideas here, let me know what you all think.
1.) Continue adding 10-15 acres of hay and do some small squares, sell them off (I figure average 120 bales/acre @ $5/bale for alalfa/grass mix), buy the big rounds for my cows and be content
2.) Go bigger, put the whole 85 in hay (likely an alfalfa mix), upgrade to a cabbed tractor, mower conditioner, and newer small square baler. Storage seems to be the issue here, along with the time/labor of that many small squares for a part time gig
3.) Go bigger, put all 85 in hay, but buy a 4x4 or 4x5 round baler and individual bale wrapper, upgrade to a mower conditioner or disc mower, and wheel rake. My thought here is I can market the smaller bales 4' bales to people like me running a few cows or horses. Easier to move with smaller tractor and to load. My thought on the bale wrapper is that I could bale wetter hay (if needed), it would store better outside (solving my indoor storage issue), I could feed my own small herd, and the hay would store better (thus be more appealing) to customers. My dad seems to like this best for time involved and in general.
4.) Get out all together, it's not worth the time, leave it to full timers
I do believe there would be a shot at some NRCS EQUIP funds for seeding row crop ground to forages. I feel like I can sell small squares fairly easy in my area (close to Omaha), but is there a market for 4' bales??? I'm not finding a lot on craigslist/FB marketplace. I figured 3 tons/acre with 700 lb bales, selling in the $50-$60 range (wrapped). My numbers pencil out for idea 3, as long as I had the market for that....
Also, any insight on beginning farmer micro loans (for equipment and my barn) would be appreciated.
Looking forward to your thoughts, and thanks for your time.
I think about this constantly. No-till is not in the cards yet and even if it was there would still be fields that I would have to redo whether ruts, woodchuck or some other issue. My current arsenal is moldboard plows which I do not use personally anymore but custom work, deep rippers/chisel that are used deep the first time to remove century of plow pan and improve drainage with the hope to never go deep again. Disk, 24' drags and cultimulcher. The only piece that I can foresee selling would be the drags which coincidentally need welding work as they are falling apart. The hard part is all is paid for owe me nothing but hate the time in the field to run each piece individually.
So, what I'm looking for is the correct piece that could replace the passes of the disks and drags. It can be drawn or integral though I prefer drawn. 15' max in width.
I have been on fields where a JD field finisher was used and they are not smooth. However they are only doing one pass and maybe and additional pass may be needed. I don't know. Unverferth Perfecta equipment has always intrigued me.
Just thinking out loud.
What can I do to this set up to shut off to the nozzles? Just want to be able to keep the pump running on the turn arounds without shutting the pto off. I use 850 rpm on the pump and I really don't like shutting it off at those revolutions. Maybe an electric ball valve somewhere. Was looking at a teejet 144 set up but people seem to be down on solenoid valves.
I recently took on a 9 acre field about 3 km from my farm.
The owner has some cattle and is looking for 600 small square bales / year out of the field.
My plan to sow is based on what I did last year, Put oatsdown in with a drill (1/4 deep only) then packing it all down with the brillion.
- Disc up the field a few times , then use a harrow to get the seed bed nice and smooth. I've got an old harrow of my Dads, do I need to harrow or can I just disc it up more? I ask because I'll probably park my tractor there and it'd save me a trip. I want to do it right though so am pretty sure I'll harrow it unless maybe you guys tell me no.
- Use a Case IH 5300 Drill to put in Common Oats as cover at 3 Bushels/Acre. I will mix in about 25% of grass seed (5lbs/acre) with it (Alfalfa, Timothy Mix). I like to do this to hedge my bets with machinery problems.
- Follow up with the Brillion and put remainder of seed in.
This is only my 2nd year in Hay, so I am interested in how to make this custom arrangement work. Some questions:
- What type of Hay mix should I put under the Oats? I am wanting something that the customer can feed to his cows/goats, but also that keeps the horse market open. I am looking at 20lbs /acre of the folllowing:
>FS Cut and Graze mix, which is 63% Alfalfa, 30% Timothy and 7% white clover mix.
- He is going to cover all seed costs, fertilizer will be done custom from my seed vendor, so the field will be his.
- I quoted him $1,600 for Custom work for tilling the field and sowing.
- I''ve got a soil test coming, but standard application from the agronomist would be 18-18-14 5S 1Mg @ 300lbs/ac
- I will custom bale it for 2.50/bale. Plan is that I will take whichever ones he doesn't want to keep at that time, and will not charge for these, but will get the bale. Essentially once he gets his 600 he should be happy and the field is largely mine to manage.. I have a barn 3km away to store, but I would love to ship it direct off the field to someone.
Any thoughts on the arrangement? Also I estimated 200 bales/acre year 1, it should be good land, is this estimate solid? Am I gonna make any money?
Thanks Boys!
Looking for advice on what is the best and less expensive way to re plant rutted, pot holed, ground hog dug weed infested hay land. Several fields, the largest is no bigger than say 15 acres. There are some parameters that I need to follow. The biggest one is no chemicals as some of the fields are not ours and several are organic. I understand soil testing and proper solutions to soil amendments .
Been reading this forum up and down and a few others. Largest tractor is 105HP and already own a 10' Brillion SS
Our soil is varied from hard pan clay to bony silt to loam. It depends on what field.
Time is on my side, so going a little slower is ok. A few more passes is also ok as the fields are relatively small.
I hate to invest a lot of money in tools that will mostly sit for years to come. As well as a lot of tools.
There are a few custom folks around that will off set disc and power harrow but they charge a lot (rightfully so), particularly to do small fields as travel must be accounted for.
Thank you in advance
Michael
Anybody been around an MC830? I'm looking for opinions...good, bad or indifferent....
John
Not sure if your local news covers what is going on down on the border but it's having some very negative effects on ranches in South Texas. Ranchers are finding fences cut on a daily and nightly basis. The trafficers leave the fences down and leave big gaps through which cattle and other livestock as well as deer that have been managed for years escape to the neighbors or get loose on highways. Ranchers are worried that this will all drive down ranch values, and it will. Think about it, who would want to buy a ranch when you have no control of your fence lines or that you may have uninvited guests showing up at you front door anytime day or night. If you're an absentee owner like I am, you never know what you will find when you get back to your ranch. Does no good to call law enforcement as they are already swamped. It's a pretty sad scene that mainstream media is not covering.
Took a quick look-see at an older GMD 500 today. Probably going to have fewer animals on the land than last summer, so was kicking around the idea of putting some grass up as bales this year. If I did I'd try to borrow most equipment, but just on general principle it seems like if I'm going to bang a cutterbar off of rocks I'd rather it be mine, so I'd like to own the mower at least. Would probably want to use it for some end of season trimming too.
Machine seems to be in pretty good shape for the age, no visible weld repairs anywhere, no oil leaks on the ground. Cutterbar was very tight, but felt like there was some slop in gearbox--is that normal with some form of clutch for shock protection in there or a red flag? Also the first disc looked about 15 degrees out of time, but no evidence of contact between discs. I seem to recall reading somewhere that those generation of mowers had unique first disc/blades--does that explain it? Or am I totally making that up? Any particular weak points on those mowers? Seller is asking $3500.
Thanks for any thoughts.
getting ready to trade into a new inline wrapper. been using a tubline 5500 for years now, looking for three things in newer wrapper, being able to do a 6ft bale, faster, and film snap sensors. got my search narrowed down to a new tubeline tl50, or a Kemco 370. The kemco dealer is a little closer but not much difference and i have never had to go to a dealership for parts. From what i can see the pros on the kemco are the speed, ability to do large squares(if i rent it out), and onboard storage for extra wrap. Pros on the tubeline are easier to start rows, my own familiarity with the brand, and they seem to hold resale value better, I have ruled out anderson on price and H&S on quality, Any opinions out there
hey i have a older artsway 425a grinder mixer. i'm looking for the main flywheel or pulley. wonder if anyone has used parts or knows where to find them ?
thanks
I have an Agco Allis 9455 that the 3 point hitch will not work. Fuse is good. Tractor has 1100 Hours. I have never needed it so i did not know it did not work until recently when i needed it. Thanks for any help. Willing to pay for some guidance.
Anyone messed with the sickle box on one of these New Holland haybines? There's a large specialty nut(1 15/16") on the shaft that leads to the connecting rod for the sickle bar, Looks like the manual says to set it to just 2-6 inch lbs. Certainly wasn't that easy to get off, maybe someone before me wrenched down on it?
Anyone know if the bearing under that nut can be pulled out? The manual reads as if you have to press the shaft out first. I didn't want to pry on it too much to try because I'm not in the mood to press the shaft in and out again. Would just be nice to get a better look at it while I can.
Hey Folks, so I have a John Deere 630 Moco and I have a little issue that has come up with it. So after I put the mower away for the year, I saw that there was a big spot under the left disc, where the gearbox shaft comes down to drive the discs. So I climbed under there and sure enough there was a leak. Now its really not a huge leak but for the little time it ran before it was put away its enough to concern. I never had even seen the leak before, I was under there before it was put away replacing knives and never saw it. The mower is still fairly new to me also. Anyways, so last weekend it finally warmed up, and so I got it out of the shed, and I got all the oil out of it and saw nothing in the gear casing for the disc's. Which was good, but then after putting new oil in and I ran it for just oh 10 mins, and I could already see the new oil venturing out. So I would love for some one to give me some advice as to where to start. I know that some guys might say it's not that much oil coming out and don't worry about just put oil in it every once in a while, but I really don't want this machine with the investment I have in it to have a leak. So if you've dealt with this issue and know how to resolve it that'd be great. Could it be a seal? I really have no clue at this point. It's also looks to be coming out of the top area between the turtle and the gearbox. Would love the help!
Thanks,
Carter
Hey there all!
Just starting a philosophical thread. I've got a New Holland model 70 bale thrower (hydraulic drive - bought it used, so unsure of the year, but still had almost all of its paint when I got it. Actually have it on a Massey 124 baler now, but that's a different story.)
I know (think?) the 70 was replaced by the 72 - but have always wondered "why". The 70 seems pretty beefy and resilient, plus I like the vertical tension rods that allow broken bales to exit without jamming.
Looks like most/all new New Holland balers come with 72's these days, so just didn't know if it's a full-on replacement, or if the 70 is somehow still an "economy model". (Also why oh why they went back to the tension rods that are perpendicular to the thrower - at least in my experience with old Massey throwers set up similarly, just creates a great place for broken bales to jam up...)
Anyway, just curious for y'all's experience. Thanks!!
I was bidding on some BLM pasture not far from me. This 1194 AUM pasture went for $50/AUM. It's a pretty good pasture, but I don't think it is that good. The south end has good access to water, but the north end not so much. It is supposed to have a tank that is supplied from the well on the other side of the fence. There is no guarantee the well can produce enough water for both pastures, so it is possible not have water on the north end. It is the lease's responsibility to maintain the fences, maintain insurance, and pick up trash that could tossed out by anyone that drives through it. There is a paved road that goes through it to Bass Lake, and there is a bar not from it, so there is a chance that the cows could get hit buy some drunk drivers.
I'm a 17 year old kid. I already have a square baler and I'm looking to buy a round baler to grow my business and not have to hire someone to custom bale my rounds. I have the opportunity to buy a Vermeer 605 XL but i have read that its not a very good baler. i don't know the guy that has it for sale so it might be bad at making rounds. i just need some guidance and i thought this website would be the best way to reach people that have the experience with this topic. thank you for reading and thanks in advance for the help!
Got to give my new Stihl 362 a nice workout yesterday doing spring cleanup around the farm. It's a horse. ran through dried osage orange like butter. Bought it to replace my 0309 which i still have but have used to death for over 20 years. Not sorry for the upgrade. 18" bar with 33RS chain.
Just thinking of a few but havent been involved in pigs since I was a kid and that was in a pig lot , not pasture . Looking for advice , comments . It could be just a few for the family freezer or I have 8 acres I could put toward this . You can find plenty of ,best thing ever , info . Just a feeder pig , raise to 350 , freezer thing , on Pasture , yea or nay ????????
Anyone do this, it looks like for the next couple of weeks it looks like that is the only time the wind in not going to be howling here.
At the very end of my first trial run of all my hay equipment, the springy pin that you push in when attaching the rod to the PTO of the tractor - broke. Can I replace this pin? See photo.
Thanks!
Hi all.
I purchased an 800 lb bale of hay from out of state recently (also posted about another issue with same bale) and as I was putting flakes away, found a dead black blister beetle.
Never found one in hay before.
This hay is mostly grass hay with only a small amount of alfalfa (I think it is alfalfa)
Should I be concerned? If there is one are there likely to be more? And if I dont see more, is there a greater risk of ground up beetles in the hay?
Hi all. I am up in Maine and hay yield has been way down this past year. Many hay farmers purchased and resold that came from out of state including Canada.
Yesterday I purchased an 800 lb wrapped sq bale. When I first checked an open bale at the sellers location the hay looked and felt fine, but once I got a bale home and opened the wrapped bale it had a strong fruity smell to it ... like old fruit salad. When I decompress a flake and fluff it up, it looks fine. It is green and soft.
I have no experience with wrapped bales and dont know what is typical.
After researching, I learned more about the risks of wrapped bales to horses botulism and so forth.
Does anyone know how much of a risk there is?
I know wrapped hay is used more in Europe, but keep coming across articles warning against wrapped bales here in the US.
Does anyone have any experience or input re wrapped hay and horses?
Thanks
I was trying out the baler I bought last fall and everything was going great until my son motioned to me that the chute off the back of the baler was not down. So...hay is now compacted in the baler and I cannot manually rotate the flywheel through a whole cycle. I gets stuck at the point where it is trying to push more hay through, since the hay is so packed in. I don't think any shear pins broke. What have I done here? Should I clear out all the hay? If I do that, will I need to completely re-time it? I am a novice in this area, but I think resolving this will give me some much needed experience. Bone headed mistake. Hope it wasn't too costly.
Thanks
Spent some time at the ranch last week doing disk work. The type freeze we got a couple of weeks ago is seldom seen in south Texas. In the winter we usually see green brush throughout the landscape but this year everything is brown; didn't see a green sprig anywhere. In fact I can't remember ever seeing it look this "dead". However, underneath is a carpet of green, the winter forbs and grasses are thriving. It was an odd sight to see but all of the grazers were loving it! We're now hitting 70s and 80s so things should start getting back to normal. It will be interesting to see what didn't survive.
Hi there all. This one is a bit of a yarn, but a technical dive, so hoping someone has some ideas!
I have a Vicon RS410T tedder (4 head/star/basket (I always say "head", but I know everyone has their preferences)). Bought it used 4 years ago for $750. Only thing with it was that 3 of the the 4 original rims were pretty corroded/jagged around the valve stems. I didn't research replacements well enough before I bought it (lesson learned)
These tires/rims are 15x6.0-6 with a 1" bore. They have a specific flange that is designed to go *around* the guard on the spindle, resulting in a paper-thin gap to keep hay out of the bearings (as seen in the picture below)
The spindles on my model are 1" bore (NOT 25 mm, as found out the hard way, see below), and 3.5" long or thereabouts (I believe the original rims have a bore length of 3.18"). (Picture below is of outer head in transport position, so spindle is pointing down with no wheel on it - just for reference:)
I tried like mad to find replacements on e-bay in 2018, even finding some rims that had everything but the flange (couldn't find any specifically for this model on eBay). Trouble is, on the two center wheels, hay gets in the gap (since there is no flange) and wrecks the bearing almost immediately (See the gap in this picture - it looks minimal, but boy does hay get in there):
I even broke down and ordered a new rim & Tire from Vicon to try it. $250. Went through *extra* thoroughly with them to make sure it was the right part number, but it came with a 25mm bore (0.983", and my spindles are apparently 1", as it wouldn't fit.). I imagine mine is an older model, and they switched to a 25mm bore at some point and all new parts sub to that (??). The parts guy was stumped. Returned, luckily.
SO - in short, does anyone have any ideas on where I can find either used or new 15x6.0-6 rims that will fit my RS410T AND have the flange AND a 1" bore? Vicon quoted me $430 *apiece* to replace the spindle (to have a 25mm bore) and rim together - so I'd be out $860 for just the center two wheels, which is more than I paid for the tedder. It works well otherwise, with only a couple of minor things I'm watching, but I'm not ready to replace it, yet not willing to dump that sort of money into it either.
(I've gotten by the past two years by taking apart the original flanged rims, wire brushing, painting, and padding the heck out of the valve stem hole with washers and heavy rubber. Lasted 1.5 seasons that way, then started blowing through tires like crazy last August, and had to resort to some of the non-flanged rims out of necessity to get 2020 done with.)
(Here is a picture of the re-done old rims so you can see the flange better, albeit a little beat up looking):
Would love to hear any insight or creative solutions anyone has, even on a piece of this puzzle. Thanks so much!
I have invested a quite a bit of time and money into getting this old sickle bar mower running, and today I finally got it reassembled and field tested. The only problem I think I have is that the knife head gets very hot to the touch after running for only a little while. so hot it burns my fingers to touch it. I think there are several sections where the sections are not meeting properly with the ledger plate, causing a lot of friction and heat. It even was smoking. Also, you will see in the photo that grass is getting caught in the sections.
Can someone advise me on how to properly adjust the bar so I can correct this?
Thank you!
Has anyone had any experience with one of these in Alfalfa/Grass mix hay? I am told by the the dealer that i would not see any dry down difference in it compared to my Massey 1363 with steel rolls. I like the Massey but hate the hitch setup. Want to go with a swivel gearbox. Thanks
There was a 40 ac grass hay field that recently sold. I was wandering what would be a fair price to pay if the new owner would let me make the first cutting? I'm thinking around $2 a small bale
Thanks for your input!
Here's my situation, after several years of having my fields cut and going thru several Hay guys, I started baling myself last year. I do it myself mostly because I use the property for other things and need to get cuts more on my schedule than my hay guys. I cut/baled about 100 acres, ended up getting 450 4x5 bales last year, sold all and delivered about 1/2 of them. I sell cow hay, don't have any animals, and have discovered most of the customers in my area just care about how cheap a bale cost. About 1/2 my acreage is bottomlands, grows very thick/fast, but had hundreds of Honey Locust Trees that typically grew in clumps. This year I paid a guy to come in with a CTL/Mulcher and cut down about 400 trees. It's done, so skip the part where I should have killed them first or used a giant dozer/root rake. He mulched about the bottom 3'-4' flush, pushed the rest of the trees over while I gathered them up in my CTL/grapple and made about 12 big burn piles. I've sprayed some of the thicker areas/stumps with Remedy/Diesel with hand sprayer. Mulch was thick, he was much faster, so I'm waiting to spot treat more soon when they are easier to find, see growth, and I start burning the piles. I tried burning one pile green, and it just took too much time constantly pushing the pile into the burn. I'm hoping after about 4 months I can get the entire pile to burn better, and if I have to, I'll mow around them and burn in the fall. Anyway, I can spot treat the bad areas, but would also like to try to knock down some of the Honey locust shoots and seedlings. In the spring I get a lot of Winter Rye, then mixed grasses/weeds, and eventually if it's not cut before late summer, Giant Ragweed will take over. Last year I also had late issues with balloon vine wanting to carpet over areas previously cut. I really don't know what all weeds I have, but my cow hay customers seem happy with the bales. The front/non-bottomland 1/2 does not have the honey locust, but also grows thinner and could probably benefit from some fertilizer/Nitrogen. So I'm trying to decide if I should rent/buy a sprayer, and what I should spray? I have a 6105E JD tractor, that could handle a large 3pt. I was leaning towards about a 200 gallon spraying system (boom? 3pt or wheeled?), spraying Grazon everywhere, continue spot treating Remedy in back on locust shoots, and maybe hitting front with a little fertilizer? Any suggestions? I work full time, at least another few years, and I really don't have the time to do what I already do.
Good Morning I am new to the site and live in South Carolina I was just wondering what everyone thought about Tarping round bales or building sheds
I am a senior citizen who has always sharpened my chainsaw either manually or for the last 15 years a Drexel tool like sharpener. Thinking of going to an Oregon bench sharpener. The hand held does not grind deep enough,the bench grinder ears chain. For those of you who cut wood professionally what do you use?
Would like to move to a V rake from my current side delivery basket rake. Both of these rake are costing about nine grand. Any body have knowledge of which is a better rake. My hay is moderately heavy first cutting stuff. I only do about 100 ac of hay so I'm not a big operator. Any good less expensive options are welcome as well. Tim
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