Well, decided to go ahead and rebuild the old 347 baler and get a few more years out of it instead of buying new right now. As much as I'd like a new one, no more small squares than we do just really hard to justify when the thing still ties very well and mechanically isn't in horrible shape (just isn't shiny new 
Have a few quick questions I have come across so far. One of the things on the list was a new flywheel bushing and shear pin bushing. The thing would constantly be breaking shear pins or working them loose. Usually it would break the head off and the bulk of the pin would still stay in place and it would keep baling, and would bale fine as long as the pin didn't work itself all the way out. But pretty much every day had to tighten it back up or replace it. Got the flywheel bushing replaced pretty easily. The shear pin bushing seems pretty tight and square still, may just leave it alone.
The new flywheel bushing does not have a hole in it to let grease in from the fitting like the old one does. Is it ok to just drill a new hole so it will take grease or is there some reason the new bushing comes like this?
Second questions is after taking the flywheel off and looking everything over, I think the bigger issue besides the worn flywheel bushing is the actual hole in the arm that the shear pin bolts through (see attached pic). It appears to me to be more wallowed out than the shear pin bushing on the flywheel itself (can't really tell in the pic)...and it does not have a replaceable bushing. Is there any reason why I can't pull this arm off, take it to a machine shop, have them weld it up and re-drill the hole? I would probably take the flywheel along also just to be sure the new hole was drilled out perfectly lined up. This ought to be a lot cheaper than a new entire piece from Deere. Maybe replacing the main flywheel bushing will do enough to take all the play out and the worn hole not matter? I hate to put it all back on just to have to take it back off again though.
Last question (for now anyway) is on the plunger. Have it pulled to add some shims to the one upper guide rail, check the bearings (they are good, replaced those a few years ago) and replace a bottom frame rail in the chamber. There is only a tiny amount of slop in the bearing and pins where the pitman attaches to the plungerhead. How much is acceptable? When I say tiny amount I'm talking what appears to be 1/8" at most of slop/wiggle. I'm tempted to just to leave it alone until it causes problems. Thoughts? The bearing on the other end of the pitman looks pretty good, hardly any slop to it...plus it can be replaced much easier without pulling the plungerhead.
Thanks
Attached Thumbnails
JD 347 baler overhaul
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