This is interesting
Tech Blasts Way to Savings
Just wanted to know if anyone uses a miller pro 7914 hay buddy. Do you like it? .Will it replace a rake? Can you still get parts for it? What's the good, bad, and ugly about those things. What are they worth? Should I run far away from it, or do they do a decent job?
This article is about people new to farming, but it is a good reminder to experienced farmers also. I posted this because we get quite a few new and inexperienced people asking about machinery and such from time to time also.
All the new tractors and such have way more safeties then the old. But the old is where entry farmers start with for the most part.
First time posting, but spent lots of time reading. My younger brother and I put up about 8,000 small square straw bales a year ( I realize not a huge amount in comparison to a lot of folks). We currently run an 8520 Case IH Inline and a 1037 New Holland Stackliner. Most of the straw is sold by the semi load and getting a time when we can both load or get help to load has been a constant issue, this next year we plan on expanding into alfalfa and grass hay so more bales to load. I picked up a Bale Handler grapple today, its capable of lifting 18 bales on edge. My hope is to pick from the stacks made by the stackliner and set the on the semi with an f11 farmhand loader. What's the consensus on this plan? I realize that an f11 on a tractor is not the fastest way to load but without shelling out cash for a bigger skid loader I thought this would be the next best option. Any insight or ideas would be appreciated. I would like to stack the bales 6 wide on edge and 6 tiers high. Thanks!
I have a small hayfield,approx.5 acres, that needs to be reseeded. This field has poor drainage and very heavy soil, so sometimes hard to cut hay on time. Flat field, so drain tile is not a option. What type of hay would work in this field? Something that requires more moisture that could help dry out this field. Thanks Dan
Sold my calves the other day; I was well pleased with what I got. I got a $1.94 for my steers under 500 pounds, $1.69 for my steer between 500 and 600 pounds., and averaged about $1.47 for my heifers.
Got all my cows preg checked and only had one that was open, I have about 5 that are going to be late calvers. I was thinking of selling them, but I think I will just keep them instead. There is no way that I am going to be able to replace them for what I bought them for last year.
All in all yesterday was a good day, but a busy one. I would have liked to watch my calves sell, but we just had to much work to do. We preg checked about 370 through yesterday, of those 18 were mine.
Have a Ford forklift ( turned around Ford 801 which is not the one father was supposed to buy) that has a power steering issue. Previous owner had a screaming brain fart and welded the coupler on the engine to the shaft running the hydraulic pump, so in order to change power steering belt you literally need to pull the weight box, then unbolt the steering assembly from the engine and slide it away just to change the power steering belt. Have a segmented belt on it now but it slips as the pulley on the pump is also shot. I’ve tried all kinds of different sites for antique tractors to find a new pulley, I’ve found all kinds of selections that are too large, no room for a larger pulley and also the reservoir has a recess for the pulley.
So my thinking is this, why can’t I route the return from the forklift valve stack thru the power steering motor at the steering column? Both are open systems technically, if required I’m sure I could find whatever valve or relief required from Burdens Surplus Center if the flow on the return from the valve stack is too high to route it all thru the steering motor.
Hey all, new to the forum
I farm in ND. Some of that is in irrigation. With todays grain prices its very hard for me to get going only been on my own for a few years. The irrigation is nice but budgets are very tight. Another thing is that the pivot ground has PH 6.8-7.2. and makes it hard to grow anything productive other than corn and barley. (which i hate dealing with malting barley).
So this is what i got, Some higher PH soils that is on about 1-6 inchs of decent soil then the rest is pure gravel. Like road gravel. So i have compaction issues that need to be addressed every 4 years. Next spring ill be renting a sub soil ripper to break up hard pans. (no-till planting/seeding here ). Then minimal tillage ( joker, pro-till) the rest.
So if a guy would put in alfalfa, is liquid fertilizer an option ( through the pivot) instead of a granular? Again I have compaction issues, So i don't know if i would want a floater going over the top if i can just run liquid through the pivot to meet my P&K needs. there is an irrigated organic alfalfa grower north of me i heard say once in the bar he used calcium and Humates?? and brags about getting 250RFV; but i don't know his yearly tonnage. Ive seen his organic operation and his alfalfa does look nice, very few weeds. But i don't know him well enough to ask more about his operation and how he does things.
So what kind of tonnage could one expect and RFV (obviously if put up right) on irrigation? and organically as well?
What size of square baler would you guys recommend? I hear in ND its best to ship out of state.
Last, what are prices going for conventional and organic alfalfa?
Im pretty much stuck on conventional but at this point I'm open in trying going organic alfalfa after spraying the field pre alfalfa emergence and start the 36 month clock countdown.
I won't be baling much, 20-50 acres. Currently my dairy farmer neighbor does it but he can't always get to it. He doesn't care if I take over doing all of it or just do certain parts myself and he'll take care of the steps that I don't have the equipment for.
I'm in Michigan, these will be grass/alfalfa fields for sheep and cows. My current tractor has 40hp at the PTO and does not have remotes. I'm keeping my eye on the used market for something a little bigger with remotes.
So which equipment to get first considering how I can piece this together over time? Start with a tedder and rake, wait until I figure out which tractor I'm going to use before I get set on a baler and haybine? Any certain style of each type of equipment to look at? The fields here are pretty flat if that makes any difference. There's a Sitrex 2 basket tedder at a local auction that I'm still liking the price on. They also have a Kuhn 4120 rake but that seems to have drawn some attention and it might go high. Would I be better looking at the older style equipment since I'm not doing that many acres, and it costs a lot less. Like maybe just using a wheel rake?
I bought a 912 speedrower awhile back and trying to get it going does anybody still run them and were they good machines in the day? Where there any problems with this model anything to look for? Did the hydrostatic drive hold up good on these,I know a lot has to do with mantanence and the operator. Thanks for any advice
Implemented last January, but many are just now becoming familiar with the changes.
Regards, Mike
I've found a kubota bv4160 baler and I would like to know what everyone thinks of them so far. Its a 4 x 5 baler but can i run 51 inch wide net wrap or only 48 inch? Thanks
So, here's the deal. I did some experimenting with Jiggs last year. After attending a "hay day" with the university here I discovered Jiggs seems to like my clay based soil. I purchased a few round rolls green and planted in an small area (about 3 acres) just to see how it did. Well, after I planted I got absolutely no rain for over 2 months. To my surprise when the rain finally came it started to grow is has done very well.
Not having access to any type of sprigger what I did was roll the bales out with the loader as best I could and then used a fluffer to back into this mess to try and spread it out. I guess it worked ok but my soil was so dry it was one big dust bowl.
So, I am looking for ideas on how to better deal with the actual spreading of the sprigs. Any ideas other than using my fluffer? I actually tired to hire some Mexicans from the row crop guys but at that time they could not spare any.
We are going into a three year contract for alfalfa/hay mix, and I am wondering what would be a good price per 825 lbs net 4x5 round bale to sell back to this guy, as he will buy half back and we will get the other half. We are paying land rent and for the seed, he would be buying it from us as it were off for our own land. We are in the Norwood, MN area.
Hallo there
I follow you guys for quite sometime ....
i have some questions
Will a bale wagon be faster than a accumulator
I farm 250 acres and make about 30000 bales and have a 1044 bale-wagon but i'm leaning towards a accumulator because off my storage
i have no barn and been always storing outside and tarp it but always loose bottoms etc
i am going to put up a dome 80 x 40 and 100 x 50
if i use my wagon i probably only get 3 stacks side by side in the 40' and 4 in the 50' wide structures and maybe 10 forward in the 80' long and 14/15 in the 100' long structures which is 30 stacks in the 40/80 and 60 stacks in the 100/50 building
that's not that much
i am wondering if i accumulate in the field and then load on a trailer and then go in the dome with my grapple if that's faster or the same because this way i can double my storage capacity
also if anybody knows if these dome drip/condense on the inside because hay usually is a bit different temperature
thanks
Willem
I'm converting my round bale unloading tractor to skidsteer quick attach and will be buying a hay spear. I've got several 49" spears, but I'm making round bales that are 39" wide, and having the spear stick through can be troublesome when moving lined up bales, so I'm thinking of getting one with a 39" spike. But will there be unintended consequences? When I buy supplemental hay rounds they are usually 48" wide or more, will I have a problem unloading them off a trailer with a 39" spear? Thanks!
I have around 50 acres of ground that needs to be seeded back into hay this spring. One field is about 15 acres that has always been row cropped but has some pretty sizeable ditches in it, I am seeding it to keep the ditches from getting any worse. The other 35 acres has been in hay in the past but was row cropped for the last 5 or so years to help get rid of a Johnson Grass problem. All 50 acres were in soybeans last year so I couldn't get it drilled in the fall, so I'm going to have to do something this coming spring. I am wanting to grow an orchardgrass mixed hay, but I know that it will not produce great the first year and spring seedings are not the best. What I am wondering about is putting an oat nurse crop in with the orchardgrass, then if need be adding to the orchardgrass in the fall.
Is this a work able solution? When would I need to plant the oat/orchardgrass mix?
So, just for fun while I was sitting around on a Sunday afternoon, I went on NH's site and messed around with configuring a 560 Rollabelt.
At first, I thought there must've been a software problem---it came up over $58,000! I tried a couple of times, same answer. So I went to Tractorhouse--used at $50,000+.
I must've been sleeping under a rock since I bought my 780A.
Ralph
"I guess we're not in Kansas anymore, Toto."
Just saw this on the local Craigslist site. For someone just starting out, all you need is a tractor and you;'re in business.
We have been looking at buying a crowding tub, but last night I found a website that talked about a bud box, and just had to investigate some. It looks like a bud box works pretty darn slick, and it may cost less to set up.
How many of your guys use a bud box, and what is your opinion on the system?
Seems like guys are having alot of breakdowns this fall baling stalks.It's been a battle with wet weather and stuff getting baled tough.3 guys have called to help finish up baling after they broke down.
I'm looking at a stacker wagon in an auction and the machine is located in Ohio, about 310 miles from me. If I do get this wagon, I'm probably going to tow it home myself since the cheapest price quote I've gotten for shipping is $1,500. I do have some question about towing this machine through two other states plus my own. Since I live here, I am pretty familiar with the NY laws governing the towing of farm equipment that is over width (the wagon is about 10 feet with the bale loader raised). What are the rules for Ohio and Pennsylvania? Here are some of my specific questions, but feel free to chime in with anything that I'm missing.
I do plan on using a set of magnetic trailer lights and putting a set of warning flags on the frame of the side boards. A safety clip in the draw pin is a given.
Thanks in advance for all your help.
Thinking about "upgrading" to a Vermeer XL baler. Net wrap was an option on these balers but were troublesome! What tricks/adjustments/modifications, call it what you will, did you XL operators do to make them work and keep them working.
Now the answers I am NOT looking for:
1) buy a different color, because we know you other colors are just jealous
2) buy an M model with wrap because I don't like to spend all my hard earned $$ on one piece of equipment.
There must have been a couple tricks that worked to make them more reliable!
Could the M wrap system be put on an L series?
Thank you in advance.
In 2015 focus was brought upon our forage industry with the birth and celebration of National Forage Week. This celebration and attention helps focus attention and educate people on US forage industry. There are many facts that are interesting to know about the US forage industry, and they can be accessed for your information by this link and clicking on the "Forage Facts" numbered on the left hand side of the page. The forage week has grown surprisingly well. I can remember posting a small blurb on the "new" celebration in 2015, but not much other was said or read about it. We can use all the help we can get and if we could do one thing in the forage industry to promote our products, I think it would be to get most folks to understand how involved it is to bring a quality forage product from the ground to the market. The fourth annual National Forage Week will be celebrated June 17-23, 2018.
I also would like to thank the American Forage & Grassland Council for making this all possible. Haytalk member hay wilson in TX (Bill) loved going to the annual AFGC meetings....and this January it will be held in Louisville, KY.
Regards, Mike
This summer I was in one of the John Deere dealers looking around as I was leaving. I asked "if you want something two wheel drive around here you have to get a lawn mower". They said that is about it. I told them I had no use for a MFWD because the turning radius, extra cost and maintenance. They said you must be a hay man. They told me they don't get the 2wd unless it is a special order. Takes a couple of months. I told him no worry ... I haven't won the Lotto.
This summer I was in one of the John Deere dealers looking around as I was leaving. I asked "if you want something two wheel drive around here you have to get a lawn mower". They said that is about it. I told them I had no use for a MFWD because the turning radius, extra cost and maintenance. They said you must be a hay man. They told me they don't get the 2wd unless it is a special order. Takes a couple of months. I told him no worry ... I haven't won the Lotto.
So one of my new seedings this year had completely died off - I was pondering whether it was just because it was a super-dry summer here in Mid-michigan, but was really not sure. Was talking to one of the old timers today and showing him the photos of before/after and he was fairly certain that it'd been sprayed. Could it be that the neighbor sprayed dicamba on his beans and it drifted over my hay field? (Edited to add that I'm not necessarily sure it was dicamba, just seems like everyone's using it around here this year on their beans).
Seeded it May 20 with 10lb alfalfa, 4lb OG, 4lb timothy, 2lb brome, got pretty good germination - here's a photo on July 27th when I did my first cutting:
And this is the same field, in a similar location (albeit panorama shot) from November 1, before any frosts:
I'm really at a loss as to what would cause this apart from drift. It was dry, but we've had a ridiculous amount of rain since about october 1, and there's basically 0 regrowth.
It's only on the part of the field that directly adjoins the neighbors field. As you can see on the panorama, the left side of the field in front of the woods is nice and green.
Thoughts?
So one of my new seedings this year had completely died off - I was pondering whether it was just because it was a super-dry summer here in Mid-michigan, but I'm really not sure. The more I think about it, the more I think maybe the guy sprayed Dicamba on his beans over the fence and it nailed my field.
Seeded it May 20 with 10lb alfalfa, 4lb OG, 4lb timothy, 2lb brome, got pretty good germination - here's a photo on July 27th when I did my first cutting:
And this is the same field, in a similar location (albeit panorama shot) from November 1, before any frosts:
I'm really at a loss as to what would cause this apart from drift. It was dry, but we've had a ridiculous amount of rain since about october 1, and there's basically 0 regrowth.
It's only on the part of the field that directly adjoins the neighbors field. As you can see on the panorama, the left side of the field in front of the woods is nice and green.
Thoughts?
Got an old Emerson Electric 1 hp, 115v motor on my hay ladder that isn't working. The start capacitor is shot & the specs aren't readable. Company has been sold & has no info on the motor. Anyone have any specs/info on a replacement capacitor ?? Really prefer not to replace the whole motor. thks
We almost lost our older BR780A last week because of this failure due to fire. The operator was alert and did everything right and saved the baler from burning. I see that the new roller is designed slightly differently than the old on. The new roller had the inner disc located about an inch farther away from the outer disc. See second pic with the tape measure, the indentation in the tube is where the inner disc is welded to the tube. Good chance that NH had some trouble with these failing. The old roller did have 21,000 bales on it.
I have been using pallets on my balewagon for a while now I got the idea from Rodney here on haytalk and it has been a lot of discussion about it on here so I finally figured out how to make a youtube video it is in 4 parts and if you want to learn how to do it just watch the video I hope I explained it so you can understand it and I show you another trick that I read about here on haytalk but changed a little I hope this helps you because it has sure made balewagon life a lot easier. New Holland had better get busy making more balewagons because this system is the cat's meow
In my opinion they should make dog food out of all those horses that can't be adopted. Of course we are going to see all those do gooder animal activist oppose this.
hey all.
need some help the boss got a john deere 582 silage special round baler bout a year ago has 38** through it. ran fine last fall and beginning of this year. after second crop the tractor has to be idles down to get the door to close. put it in float and it seems to go down faster than power down???the boss had the cylinders off and the distribution block off the front and checked by our local hyd. shop (all good there). tried on several tractors and even a skid steer, no thing seemed to work, the door comes down fine until about 4foot off the ground then its time to grab a sandwich. need help fellers.
Thinking about upgrading to a new tedder, About 12 years ago I had a Kuhn, had No problems with it, but it was 3 point, and I hated that part, So I sold and bought a Krone, had several flat tires & cracked wheels, wobbles in transport position, The new Krone supposedly address these problems (bigger tires, etc) & has more adjustments than my older model.
Same dealer, he puts them side X side and says 80% of buyers choose the Krone because it looks heavy duty, ( 300+ lbs bigger tires etc ), although it cost $400 more than Kuhn.
So my question is does anyone have experience with the KW.5.52/4x7T vs GF5202THA on ruff hillside land?
Thanks,
Dirt
hey all.
need some help the boss got a john deere 459 silage special round baler bout a year ago has 38** through it. ran fine last fall and beginning of this year. after second crop the tractor has to be idles down to get the door to close. put it in float and it seems to go down faster than power down???the boss had the cylinders off and the distribution block off the front and checked by our local hyd. shop (all good there). tried on several tractors and even a skid steer, no thing seemed to work, the door comes down fine until about 4foot off the ground then its time to grab a sandwich. need help fellers.
Preservationist are killing our forests with love....Conservationist are trying to save them....from wildfires. From the Boone & Crockett organization.
Regards, Mike
Interesting BTO operation.
Regards, MIke
Research from Western Illinois Univ. Growing TN.
Regards, Mike
Product link: http://ift.tt/2lZqeak
Description:
T&H comes in 4 range of twines with a combination of features like superior knot strength and length, making them
a very popular option on the market for your baling needs. As an important part of T&H family,
TH-280 is reliable and specifically designed to pack small square hay.
Specification:
Model: TH-280
Knot Strength: 280lb/130kg
Length: 7000'/2130m
Weight: 22lb/10kg
Color: Blue
Features:
Offering extra length compared with standard one, thus helps save money and time.
Smooth texture prevents knot slippage and guarantees less wear on knotters.
Perfect spool shape ensures trouble free running in the baler.
High strength maximizes the knotting performance.
Superior uniformity ensures better quality hay.
UV stabilized for longer outdoor storage.
Guaranteed to run in most balers.
My old NH 489 Haybine was becoming frequent trouble so I sold it after the season. Looking to replace with a used discbine. Will pull it with an IH 686 with after market turbo probably kicking out 75 - 80 pto hp. Have been looking for a NH 1409 or H7220, or comparable Case models DCX91 or DC92, all in the range of ~9 ft. cutting width. But those models are harder to find vs the 10+ ft. NH 1411 or H7230 (Case models would be DCX101 or DC102). I have no experience with pulling a disc mower conditioner so I'm in need of some seasoned advice. Would those bigger mowers simply be too much for my 686? Thanks in advance for your input.
Machinery Pete. AgWeb.
We should also ask our resident skid steer expert PaMike what he is seeing in his part of the country.
Regards, Mike
Anyone ever used a Degelman Protill to break up land? I had talked to a neighbor about breaking up some hayground for me that had been in alfalfa for 7 years. I was going to rent a Summers diamond disk and hire him to pull it with his Case IH quadtrac. Way faster than me pulling our 18ft offset. Well he was renting a Protill from an area dealer and he told me it would do a better job than the summers disk. It was a 40ft machine pulled behind a 620 hp quadtrac and it made short work of breaking up that hayland. One pass on one field and it was smooth and looks about ready to seed into. The other field he did 2 passes as it was a little rougher from mole hills. 2 passes made about a perfect seedbed. I was really impressed with that machine. What he did in 2 passes would have taken me 4 or more passes with our disk to make it look even close. I wish I'd have taken before and after pictures.
I was watching the Cashman's hay tip video on the alfalfa forum and was wondering if anyone was using the RECON 300 or similar machine. Back in the early 70's we ran a 7' NH mower with hitch and PTO that could run a JD crimper behind it. This RECON looks like a bigger version with tedder arms. If you cut with a mower conditioner is this machine worth the investment or is it a cheaper alternative buying a disk-mower and a RECON verses buying a disk-bine and tedder.
Just picked up a International 370 disk. We will have to work on one of the gangs. but I think we got it bought worth the money.
Been putting up haygrazer for over 20yrs, and never had issues like this year.
Always baled it with a NH846 chain baler............absolutely no issues, bales like a dream.
Switched to a NH650 last year, and barely made it thru the field. Stinkin' machine won't start a bale. Core refuses to tumble,, and you wind up digging it out.
This is what I handle on a yearly basis.
Is there a belt style out there that will start a roll on the belt baler, the 650 has standard mini rough top belts. Or is there a belt baler out there that will ACTUALLY handle this kind of crop.
I have no intentions of putting it up as haylage, and only interested in hay.
To finish up this year I'm relying on a NH853 I picked up a few years back. Tired of fighting with belt balers for now, I gotta roll this stuff up before it SNOWS .
Thanks
anyone have experience with no till timothy want to plant into field that was canola this year irrigated field and would like opinions should i stay with conventional or would i still get good results with no till thanks
Did anyone here have a chance to demo one of the 9900 series rotaries this summer? I am interested in how it compared to the current 9800 series.
I'm in the market for a new hay cutter.
I've narrowed it down to the Krone EC280, EC280CV (tine conditioner), and the New Holland H7320.
Any of y'all went from a disc mower without conditioner to a disc mower with a conditioner? Was it worth it in the southeast? How much faster did your hay dry?
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