Is there any android app for your phone that will show an area that you have either spread fertilizer or sprayed pesticide? Want to spray the whole field without to much overlap or not spraying certain areas. Would like to be able to look at my phone and on small acres be able to see the path of the previous pass.
New to me Deere 535 round baler. I'm having multiple net wrap issues. I have gone over every adjustment in the manual. A new brake pad probably wouldn't hurt but it seemed to be within spec. I made around 8 round bales with it, of those only 3 wrapped on their own, I would have to pull the string sometimes multiple times for the wrap to activate for the other ones. None of them cut and the very last bale I made appears to have net wrap throughout the entire bale. The bale track flashes yellow like it's supposed to while the bale is being made. The manual says when the bale is done the yellow light and will alarm will stay on while wrapping and cutting. For me the yellow light and alarm only come on for about a 1/2 second, then the yellow light turns off. Any ideas? Ditch it and try string wrap?
A previous poster was discussing a barn he was considering taking down. I commented about the old barn on my property which has stood for longer than I. A couple of years ago I added the new pole barn to help with hay storage. This old dog is trying to learn new tricks so my "helper" is working with me to get pictures up. I think we did it, but then it isn't posted yet.
I know this topic has been discussed before on here, and I have looked at many of the treads, but I am looking for any additional information or opinions about this subject that may be out there. We have a small hay and cow/calf operation in Western Kentucky We have been raising beef cattle and our own hay since before I was around, but since my grandfather is no longer with us and Dad is slowing down, more of the decision making is coming down to me. On top of that I have picked up some custom work. In order to be more efficient in both time and cost I am looking at adding some form of GPS guidance to the tractor that I spread fertilizer and spray with.
Right now I am just looking at going with a lightbar and staying with the WAAS signal, but in the future if the operation continues to grow, I may look at adding some form of autosteer and a subscription service. I have looked at both Trimble and Raven products but I'm not sure which specific models I should be looking at.
I would love to hear any input those of you that are currently using some form of guidance would be willing to share.
Thanks
We are considering trading our discbine the dealer has a NH 7320 with steel rollers, does anyone have one, was wondering if works for alfalfa and light 2nd and 3rd cutting grass. Do the steel rollers condition more aggressively then the rubber rollers? I think this may have been discussed before but any information would help. thanks
Hey everyone, got a quick compatibility question for you. I've currently got the Accu Bale Plus monitor on my 504M baler. I have the opportunity to purchase a nearly new (Only 300 some bales showing on monitor) Bale Expert monitor. Although I'm not currently experiencing any problems with my monitor I'm thinking if this one is a direct plug in replacement (Using same wiring harness etc) for my current monitor it might not hurt to have a spare just in case. Does anyone know if this is a direct swap for my current monitor or not? thanks in advance for any help
Anyone have experience with the 3 point hitch bale wrappers? Mainly interested in the Ag Wrap or Farm Land style wrappers. Not going to be used that much so I can't justify the expense of a nicer one.
Thanks.
AgWeb.
Regards, Mike
https://www.agweb.com/article/one-step-closer-to-national-traceability-system/
Baler M&W 4500 chain, to me chain looks too loose but can't find any thing that says different.
Oil container for chain up top seems backwards, shouldn't hose be on the bottom for the fluid to flow if not it seems you would need to keep container full 100%?
The farm has an 8870 with a 14 sickle header. I am so over fighting with the header. Seems like we can't get anything cut in a day...replacing.guards, sections, overlapping sections, getting scratched by the reel tines fixing guards and sections, and snapping reel shaft. Can I buy a pull-type discbine and mount it on the swather in place of the sickle head? Can't swing a self propelled discbine and Dad and my amazing wife (the help) are not too keen on going to a pull-type. A pull type hesston auger header needs 75 hp and a 12 foot hesston discbine (1372) needs 85. Would the hydraulic motor that currently drives the auger header have enough poop to run the discbine? I don't need to go 10 miles/hr. I'd be thrilled with 6 - 7.
Does anyone know what causes brown leaf on Timothy ? How do i prevent this?
My heifer is bred, well I think she is, but she has almost always had a "fat" area around her tail..
She is 3yrs old...
It looks like the older she gets the bigger it gets. is this a normal thing..
I have looked at other cows around here and they don't seen to have the same fat tail area, but then again mine is a bit plumper than the ones I've looked at..
I see they have put their name on what they were after:
https://www.agdealer.com/articles/massey-ferguson-introduces-rb-series-silage-baler
So vermeer will likely get the Lely mower beds, and maybe the tedders? I wonder where all the other products like the square baler will go? Those welger small square balers have a following.
I have 15 acres of good coastal baling for horses. I have about 20 acres of crop land was thinking about options for annual on it for cows. Looking for any recommendation or thoughts on cow hay. Would want to bale it in round bales with net on it and not stored under shelter. Know not the best but don't think would have shelter for new all it would produce.
We do not have any dairy in our area.
A second question here is how much does a mower conditioner with tedder, speed up hay drying compared to mower and tedder only.
If you were affected by Hurricane Florence mind giving us an update?
My area saw winds of somewhere about 50 mph and about 15 inches of rain the Friday of it's land fall. I have 10 acres of coastal that may not get last cutting of. But I think from what I have seen most crops have faired rather well. Now we are being hit with major flooding from the massive rains in NC coming down river and know the crops in those flood waters will probably be total loss.
Some areas of NC might not be able to even know how bad they are for a while.
So brought the grain cart home today from the other farm, the Cab Cam monitor powers up but has a dead screen, absolutely nothing when powered up or menu buttons are used.
So the question is this, is one much superior to the other? More importantly have you ever had an Ag Cam then went to Cab Cam or vice versa and found one superior to the other?
I have no issues filling trucks with it, have one camera on the end of the grain cart auger, however have had help complain about the Cab Cam, personally I know its because they never adjust the screen brightness for the time of day.
With the awesome profit margins this year for grain I wasn’t really looking to spend the money on a different system, but if it saves me from having to shovel a mess up now and then so be it.
I have a few questions about this,Hay Wilson talked about it and he does it,I bought a meter for reading humity at the hardware store and put it in the windrow just above the ground and made sure it was covered from the sun had to put a stick up to find where I put it,I think he said any reading under 65 the hay is dry enough to bale and have put in windrows that are very green and it might get to about 75 and always let it set there for about 20 minutes or so,am I doing this right and am I using the correct meter just seems like it wasnt working very accurate,can somebody educate me on this ? This is on bermuda grass in east texas where we have high humity. Thanks
I am having a few issues with fire ants in my bermuda hay fields. What would be several medications I could use to kill or get rid of the fire ants.
Earlier this year, someone created a post asking about this dealership. I didn't reply at that time as I didn't have anything to add. I do now.
I bought a brand-new Woods bat-wing mower from Reiff in late spring. The second time I went to use the mower - which was less than 90 days from the time of purchase - one of the tires was flat. Upon closer inspection, I discovered that all four tires have severe dry-rot (see photos). I bought this mower with used tires and I understand that there's some risk on my part but I think it's reasonable to expect the tires to last for a season to two - at least.
I called Reiff and Elam told me there's no warranty on the tires. I then called out to the Woods factory in Illinois. The person I spoke to asked to the mower's serial number. I read it to him from the sales receipt and he put me on hold for a minute. When he can back on the phone, he said that unit left their factory with rims only. In other words, the dealer provided the tires.
When purchasing a new piece of equipment with used tires, one would think an effort would be made to find tires that are still in reasonably good condition. Obviously, Reiff installed the cheapest tires they could find. Needless to say, I will never do business with them again.
My local tire shop is currently installing 4 new tires which gave me the chance to take the attached photos.
Friend of mine sold me his bull a year or so ago, he sold all his cows at that time. Well now he has moved down the road to a better place and bought 6 angus heifers. He texted me wanting to rent the bull for 2-3 months, my question is I have never done it before and should I at a certain rental fee or just allow it since he is a friend? Wife said rent it as I am always allowing folks to use my stuff for free, getting something out of it. Any suggestions? Thanks
I ordered some Urea (pellet) today so I can spread it tomorrow when I am off. When I called the local co-op they told me that it had went up $32 since last week and it is now $432/ton. Inquiring to see what others are paying for it and if there has been such an increase for you to. Wondering if something has happened that is causing it to jump up.
Thanks,
Jason
Well, here I am, 1/4 of the way into second cutting and nothing but rain, rain, rain.
Someone told me the area I live in "The Delaware Valley" has seen 50" so far this year. The big city, Philadelphia has its greatest rainfall in history, and the year still has 3&1/2 months to go!
Fields are mostly mud. I just saw a bigger operator than me break out the 15' mower and begin cutting his fields-calling it quits. I kind of take my cues from him sometimes.
I'm not a quitter, but beginning to wonder...is second cutting going to happen? I've seen short windows of beautiful dry weather in October, but next 10 days are average for making hay at best.
Any opinions?
I have bought a pz sweegers 360 tedding machine and I was wondering where I can find a operators manual. I saw several place on the web that say they have a pdf but unable to load them. I want to know how to properly operate it.
Had the hay cut yesterday by a guy who does it for a neighbor. Fastest I've ever seen someone drive a tractor. Did my 20 in about 3 hours. We had a lot of rain last week too, so I thought that might be it. I don't get these turning ruts with my tractor. I didn't know if this was normal or not with a bigger tractor. Looks like places that will attract weeds.
Don't have a corral/squeeze chute, have only 6-7 cows. Got a trailer now and can heard them into it 2-3 times a year but wonder which is easier and more effective, pour on or injections. Either way I need to go buy the applicator. My neighbor friend did it last time with an injection gun (he has a corral and several hundred cows so injection is his way) we just did it in a trailer and done in 5 minutes. He hung from the roof area and did it, didn't change needles and not sure if that is correct or should it be changed for it cow (I am a nurse so I would have changed the needle)
I got the mineral granular from a bag that I give them for flies, heard to give the large (200#) protein buckets to them during the springs, summer?
I think I hit it all. Newbie has a lot to learn but I do like messing with them, darn bull is so gentle he likes his head and neck to be rubbed, others slowly getting use to me. My horses think they are cows, hang out and lay with them.
Thanks
Hello everybody and hope all is well. I picked up a 2004 Krone 5.50/4x7t four basket tedder last week and had the chance to use it for the first time today. Everything works fine with it, except the wheels won't run straight....When being pulled the thing yaws to the left and right.
This tedder has a feature that allows the wheels to be angled to the left or right (to clear field boundaries according the manual). I have the angling lever set so the wheels run straight, but as you travel down the field, the wheels swivel to the left and right which causes the tedder to swing to the left and right. I've checked to see if there is a way to lock the wheels in the straight position, but have had no joy.
Has anybody else ever encountered this problem? Any idea on how to remedy it? Could it be something as simple as tire pressure being too high? (I'll have to test that theory tomorrow).
Thanks,
Chris
Are there any companies that build a solid stand seeder other than Brillion. I have been looking for one around here but I am having trouble finding a Brillion, so I am looking for other options. I will be seeding orchard grass, timothy mix for hay and also seeding several small pastures that will be sprayed and worked up.
Thanks
How many of you Bermuda guys cut on a schedule regardless of growth and how many just cut when it looks good? I cut a field today that was 45 days old. It was fertilized but not much rain until the last 7 days. I was wondering if I should have waited another week to let the grass take advantage of the late moisture?
Idler sprocket on the upper roll drive chain has come off chain and bent up at a 90 degree angle. How in the hell did this happen? Baler just came back from dealer and had all new sprockets put on.
The last one. Finished hay for the year yesterday and it sure feels good to be done. Sure was a good year for putting up hay. Not a single bale of rained on hay this year. Cant remember the last time that happened. From past experience next year will be payback time.
I am having issue with the pins where the 3 pth implement pins run through the balls on the lift arms. This is a JD 5525 with cat 1 and 2 balls in the lift arms. I normally run my stabilizers not jammed tight but snug. This has happened with two implements which are both cat 2 and have run them both on a Kubota M6800 which has Cat 2 balls in the lift arms with same type of stabilizers the sliding metal ones.
First happened with a boom mower with a flail head on it, the pin coming out the left lift arm allowing the cutter head to drop swinging the cutter frame into the left rear tire. Not the cutting head but the frame. I was using the regular hitch pin like used with a trailer pin but I always push them in all the way and not in the little first place some people will leave them. I replaced the pin and ran cutter for maybe another hour ok. But the next time I used it was using same type of pins and after cutting with it say 15 minutes checked and they were coming out. One had just dropped when I checked it. I went to the lynch pins with the spring circle that you flip open to install or remove and did not have another issue with the boom mower. Now the boom mower was being used to cut high limbs, under trees and all kind of angles. So the connections were being pushed.
Now have used subsoiler on the same tractor with the lynch pins and it was in really hard dirt with a lot of vibration due to hardpan. It was used in this for say 10 hours with last few hours nephew running it. When it got back to me the lynch pins were missing. I had him to cut around tree line at my house and he hit a root that popped shear bolt and it was very loud. I would not be suprised if it shook the subsoiler as it also twisted the shank the bolt sheared on. I can believe it is possible one of the lynch pins sheared with the subsoiler jumping the way it hit the stump but hard to believe it could have sheared both.
The tractor in both cases was running very low ground speed. Have come to the thought need to get "LOCKS" with shanks that would be long enough to clear to be fully certain vibration and other movement was not loosing the pins. There has to be something I am missing. Maybe in the times I have used a 3 pth implement not aware ever dropped an implement or loss more than one pin or two and that on a selection of tractors. Have wondered it I need to place a flat washer between pin and the lift arm. Thanks for your help
With no real easy way to weigh my bales , I was wondering what others are seeing in weight out of the field. They are good dry and tight bales of grass using a NH 664 net wrap, set to a 64" bale .
Been awhile , years , since I have kept calves to feed . Was looking at the old ralgro gun and I think its time for new . Then thought maybe theres something different and better now . So ,,,, is there ? or is ralgro still just as good ?
I mowed a field Wed afternoon around 1 pm. It was full sun and about 78 degrees. Tedded it a few hours later and got full coverage.
Thursday was cloudy and mid-70's.
Today was sunny with some clouds, 78-80 degrees, 53% humidity, no wind. I raked the field at 3 pm. Started baling at 4:30, and tested the first few bales, I was getting 18-20+% (small squares). I moved to the center of the field where the hay would always get full sun and tested some more with the same moisture. The hay felt dry on the ground but when we were breaking the bales apart to respread out you could indeed tell they felt a little damp.
They are pretty good sized windrows. I left the hay in rotary-raked windrows. I debated tedding them back out or leaving them as is. I left them. Everbody fauns about how well rotary raked windrows are still supposed to dry.
Tomorrow is supposed to be 83 degrees and full sun. Sun will be the same but even hotter, 86 degrees. After dew is gone, should I re-ted the rows back out or leave them as windrows? Will I get sufficient drying in the rotary windrows? The hay inside shouldn't dew I wouldn't think, but then it's not getting as much sun either.
Seems like a lot of people around here are having problems with hay getting dry enough.
I need to upgrade some of my cattle handling facilities to make it easier to sort and handle cattle as a one man show. Traditionally we had a lot of gates that have the short stub tube sticking out that catches on an auto latch. For all you locals, its the Paul B Zimmerman style. These work well but the auto latches are a little expensive. The upside is that stub tube is around 2" dia, so its about impossible to bend it.
Does anyone have any experience with the "slam latches". Basically its a tube with a 3/4" or 1" shaft that's spring loaded. The shaft catches in a plate with a slot in it that's bolted or welded to a post? These latches are much cheaper, however I wonder how strong they are. I could see a cow in a confined area backing up into one of these gates and bending the 3/4" or 1" shaft. Anyone have any experience?
Hi Guys,
I just picked up a Kuhn FC300. I bought it knowing a gear was chipped in the cutter bar. i think the best bet would be to pull apart the entire bar and check all gears and bearings.
first question is should i leave the cutter bar attached or is it fairly easy to drop the entire bar off the frame. on the side away from the tongue i see a large pin that you drive out and i think will allow that side to drop. i can't seem to see how everything is attached at the gear box side. If dropping it all isn't the best route thats fine. i was just going to try and bring it all in my garage since the mower won't fit through the door.
Also while i'm into the cutter bar is there anything else i should look at and think about replacing while i'm in there. meaning if the gears are fine should i consider pressing the bearings off them and just putting in new bearings?
some of the tarps are pretty torn is there anywhere to get an OEM tarp for it? I went to Kuhn site and couldn't find anything on them in the parts breakout.
Last question, right now it's a manual fold, i have a few cylinders i just need to get rebuilt. can anyone tell me roughly what length they should be?
Thank you,
Chad
Progressive Forage Grower. Some interesting statistics and information.
Regards, Mike
With the wet weather we've been having and time slipping away to get 2nd cutting done, I'm actually wondering about mowing and baling my 2nd cutting for silage bales instead of dry hay. My neighbor has a baler and wrapper that he uses for his stuff, but I could probably also use my own round baler as it is a silage baler and would give me netwrap instead of twine. My problem is, I know virtually nothing about how to properly bales/wrap hay for silage. Some of the questions that I already have are:
1) What moisture should I bale the hay at?
2) My fixed chamber baler (Claas 62S) makes 4x5 bales. Will these be too big? Will the fixed chamber make a good bale in wetter hay?
3) I understand that things vary by location, but what is the market like for these bales? I'm assuming I'll be talking to dairy/beef producers, correct?
4) What is the best way to price these (by ton or bale)? Also, what are prices like?
5) The only way I have to handle round bales are bale spears on the loader and 3pt hitch. Can I just patch the holes these put in the wrap with tape?
As with everything new, I'm sure there are questions that I don't even know to ask, so feel free to educate me. I'm not totally sure I will do this, but I hate to see forage on the field not being harvested... especially fields that I spread fertilizer on earlier this summer!
Thanks in advance, Josh
I am in need of some help on my Krone BP128 baler. I have one knotter that sometimes does not push the twine off of the billhook; most of the time it works just fine, but every now and then it hangs up. Do I need to replace the wiper arm.
New to me via auction JD 535 round baler. So far I just have the operators manuals for it. Starting to go through all the grease points, adjustments, etc... The gate latches are way out of adjustment. The manual says no bigger than an 1/8th of inch gap. These appear to be pushing 1". Possibly related but I'm not getting a ready/gate latched light on the bale trak either. Although the gate closed sensors appear to be aligned correctly. I do plan on actually measuring them per the manual but just eyeballing them, they seem to be in the correct spot. The hydraulic cylinders on the rear for the door do appear to be closed all the way.
Gate latches are both about this far
Gate sensor
In App form.....AgWeb.
Regards, Mike
https://equipmentlock.com/product/stabilizer-lock/
No doubt some of you are aware of this but I have never seen one before. Anyone know what the lock is like to make it so secure? I do wonder if you took two pieces of angle iron with hinges with non-removable pins and heavy hasp with high quality lock how much they may be worth.
So trying to make hay, and I do mean trying as it aint drying.
Tedded it for the sixth time today, even after all those passes I notice the wettest still finds its way to the bottom which places it on moist ground.
So the question is this, do the TE series of Vermeer tedders with the hook tines really do a better job of getting the wet stuff to stay on top?
One thing I did notice, my NH169 covers 22 1/2 foot while the TE250 covers 25 foot, that would place rotors 1/2 and 5/6 over the rows better so it might spread more evenly.
AgWeb.
Regards, Mike
https://www.agweb.com/article/killing-hogzilla-hunting-a-monster-wild-pig/
What do you use for beef management/record keeping?
We keep a herd of about 20 Hereford cows - looking for a simple app/software for basic record keeping.
Ok, I have lots of it in my 2nd cutting. I don't like it for horse hay. I have considered topping it with a bat wing and then letting the heads hit the ground with wind and rain before baling, or baling for goat/ cattle hay, or just mowing. I am open to suggestions. Looking around the neighborhood, I am not alone with this situation.
Anyone know where to get parts (beyond teeth, etc) for a John Deere no. 8 sickle bar mower?
I need the two-pronged part that joins the pitman arm to the "gear box."
Failing that, guess I'll have my welder repair mine--cast iron, but he's pretty good...
Hello, I know its not hay, but you folks are very knowledgeable about lots of farm machinery, Im looking to buy a cole brand corn planter, 2 head for deer plots, I am wondering if it is a good unit or pass and go with a used john deere..any info on the cole would be helpful..thank you in advance fpr any help..
What warm season perennial grasses etc. do you like best for your pastures and hay lands....and why if you want to expand a little further.
Regards, Mike
By chance does anyone have a PDF of the service manual they would be willing to share?
thanks
