Ran across this problem by accident. While working on something else, I noticed an odd bit of paint scuffing on the top of the duckbill. Hmmm. Why is that? Turns out the left duckbill pivot bushing was completely knackered. Its not an obvious problem but I suspect it can interfere with ideal net application. It is an easy and cheap fix. The bushing is $13 from NH. Picture #1 is upside down and shows the scuff mark that occurs on the left end of the duckbill when the bushing wears out and the left counterbalance spring pulls the duckbill up against the top of the slot for the duckbill in the baler chamber wall. Picture #2 shows old and new bushings. To replace the bushing--measure the amount of threaded rod above the jamb nuts, then remove the tension on the left duckbill counterbalance spring but don’t take the nuts off the adjuster; remove the bolt that holds the pivot bushings in place. With the bolt and the inner bushing removed, the duckbill can be pushed forward from the pivot point and the nylon bushing can be removed from the back side of the arm on the duckbill.
Both my balers had this bushing completely worn out at 7,000 bales. My advice would be to check them in the 5,000 bale range. Mine may have worn faster because of the abrasive dust they operate in.
Duck bill bushing on New Holland Roll-Belt balers
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