Thanks
MF Disc
I have my grandpa's old Ford 22-60 rotary mower/stalk chopper. With me it enters its 3rd generation of service.
I need to replace the PTO driveline. The 6 splined shaft that comes out of the mower gear box looks like it's a 1 1/8" shaft. Are there any PTO shaft drivelines where the implement size is 1 1/8" and the tractor side is 1 3/8"? I have not been able to find any so if not, would I be able to put a shaft adapter over the mower shaft to bring it up to 1 3/8" so I can then hook a PTO drive line up to it?
Cold and wet outside so read the manual front to back and sideways. I think I understand, but was hoping experts on single rooter rakes might lent their thoughts or tricks on running. I was running a Ford 503 side deliver rake before so I am in for a bit of a learning curve. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks Keith
/+recently purchased 2013 vermeer 604sm at estate sale and trying to get it ready if it ever stops raining.
PLEASE help
1) Trying to optimize netwrap and the book says measure 3 1/2" from shear bar and horizontal spring steel. To set timing marks. Cannot for the life of me figure out what horizontal spring steel is. Is it the roller that has a wire welded around it that spreads net wrap? Even with picture am at a loss.
2)Baler has field upgrade that repositions netwrap brake spring. Baler is cutting and ripping net to early so I figure I need to loosen spring tension. How do we adjust this upgrade spring tension is not in vermeer manual.
I am midway through changing running gears under two wagons and ran into a need for a longer piece of steel tubing. It is the material used between the two axles, 3" OD and somewhere shy of .25 wall thickness. Anyone know where I can get that in the Hagerstown-southern pa area? Need two pieces 14' long each. Thanks.
We brought our new bull home a couple weeks ago. We decided to go with Red Angus this time.
I have a NH 1409 discbine 9-3 with 7 modules. Just finished servicing it to be ready for hay season. I started changing the module gear oil each year as I was getting discoloration (milky color from water) in the gear oil on the outside module. Local NH mechanic who seems very knowledgeable and who has been very helpful on multiple issues is stumped. He says the seal is not leaking as there would be oil coming out and I would at least see oil stain somewhere when the db has been parked for a long time. We thought it might be that I washed it off while it was still warm from use so I made double sure it was cool before I washed it off all last season. I wash it out after every use to try to save the sheet metal as much as possible. This year, same discolored gear oil but only in one module. Now there is not a lot of water getting in, no free water drains out. It stays shedded most of the year. only out when cutting hay as I have to prop wagons with hay in them in the shed that I store the db in during the off season.
Anyone with a theory on why the water is getting in? MIke 10?
Hi,
My new holland 276 conventional square baler has broken one of its needles and i cant figure out why this has happened. I have removed all the hay from the bale chamber hoping to find something in there that the needle could have hit but i couldnt find anything. I don't think there is a problem with the timing of the machine that could have caused the plunger to hit the needles because then they would both be broken??. I did notice there was some twine stuck in the billhook of the knotter that has a broken needle, not sure if that could have anything to do with it. Is there anything else someone could suggest I check as I would like to know why the needle broke before I put a new one in or repair the broken one if possible. Any help is much appreciated.
what is being used on your silage & high moisture hay ?
End of March we started prepping the site for building. We will be doing all the work ourselves. Lets just saw 38' at the peak seems like a long ways down, when nailing the purlins.
Slow and steady wins the race....
I have a jd 348 baler that the augers keep getting stopped with hay any suggestions?
Our truck got here Friday from Sweetwater Texas loaded with our steel components for the new shop building. Its gonna be big and nice! I've hauled 350 ton of material for the pad, finishing with a very good AB fill from the old mine in Tombstone. Patrick found a nice electric scissor lift that is ready for service.
In the market for upgrading a mower.
Currently run a 9' case.
Looking at the hesston 1383 - 13' hydroswing vs the krone 4013cv easycut - 13' hydroswing.
If you have an opinion, please provide it. Thanks!
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I picked up this John Deere WorkSite Pro GT72 grapple at an auction Friday. A buddy has been wanting one. I'd like to straighten some of the teeth that are really out of place, then weld pipe spacers between them 6 inches in from the ends for support. How would you go about bringing these teeth back into proper position? Not sure how I can do it without lots of heat, but not sure if the heat would be a good thing in the long haul.
My 605k needs to have the hydraulic system bled/recharged, I have the operator's manual but no info on the procedure...can't find a repair manual anywhere... spoke with local dealer, "ya just have to bring it in", come on I've have as nice a shop as they do and am somewhat mechanically inclined, I just need the procedure...this is the one thing I don't like about Vermeer, I can't get a repair manual for it...We have JD, Case, NH, Kubota and Polaris on our ranch and I have service manuals for all equip. except the Vermeer...60mi to dealer, so we have to do repairs ourselves...love Vermeer but this issue will make me trade this unit in on another brand if I can't resolve it...sorry just venting
Last year I sold all my first cut alfalfa to a local dairy for haylage. I mowed, they had a custom operation merge, chop and truck. I'm wondering if having it rolled and wrapped, then marketing the baleage would/could be advantageous to my bottom line? I have no idea what baleage sells for. Thoughts on marketing baelage?
Bought a MacDon M205 w/16' rotary head and I need to get it shipped from Colorado to Missouri (850+ miles). I am checking with local transport companies and equipment dealers, but dealers are busy now and not many locals have experience with self propelled swathers.
If anyone can recommend a transport co. that they have experience with, I would really appreciate their contact info.
Or maybe someone in Colorado (who is tired of waiting for grass to grow) would like to take a trip east and make a little extra income.
Any thoughts, advise, recommendations, or references are appreciated. Thanks
The Sand Hills...from Dairyherd.com
Regards, Mike
My NH 7080 round baler needs the belts respliced. Can I cut 1 inch off each end of the belts (to get rid of the bad ends) and they still be long enough? Will I have to adjust the baler once I resplice the belts? Can I use Flexco Alligator Rivet Bale Splice on the NH belts?
So I had a call yesterday from a person who wants to come and buy a steer from me. They want to come to the farm and "Kosher Slaughter" the animal. I would then need to take carcass to butcher for processing for them... Not sure I really want to get into this, but it could be a good niche market for me to sell my 15-20 animals a year. Any one every do this? Input? FYI a kosher slaughter means cuts its neck and letting it bleed out while live....
still needing help finding what brand and model of this bi fold rake, so far we have not found anything that matches
I have a MF 1328 3-pt disc mower, about 6 years old, low use (about 300 acres). At the end of last season it had a vibration/bumping when I raised it up to turn, then all of the time as I finished the last field.
I did not have a heat gun but two of the rotors were very hot to the touch, the other four were not so hot. Just ran it about 20-30 min and used a heat gun, all six gear boxes were around 90 deg F, and no vibration.
I checked the dip sticks in each gearbox and all were full to the top, one had blue color to the grease the others were brown. Wondering if it might be the spindal bearings in a couple of them, and how to replace them.
Anyone have experience with something like this?
Thanks! I need to settle it before we begin cutting.
Well, I took a chance and laid down 30 acres of rye yesterday. Weather showed 20% chance of rain. Woke up this morning and rain was coming down. Rest of week calls for upper 80's. Will I be able to save this and make hay? New to the hay making business and would like suggestions on how to save this if possible. Can't afford to lose this. Still haven't recovered from last years drought and army worm attack. Thanks
I am rebuilding my 575 and when ordering parts from messicks website, I ran into the problem of deciding whether I need to order the metric or inches main bearing from the gear box crank arm to the plunger crank arm? My question is how do u tell if you need the metric or inches bearing assembly? The inches is 265 and the metric is 365 somewhere in there.
The CV joint on the PTO shaft of my Bush Hog 2615 shredder was going bad, so I bought a replacement shaft from Sloan Express. This is a 21 spline 1000 RPM shaft
The 2615 end went on -- no problem.
The tractor end of the new shaft will not go on enough for the locking balls to seat. I cannot get the female end to go any deeper. Looked inside--there is an-ever-so-slight ridge by one of locking balls.
I'm wondering if this is a manufacturing defect or if the clearances are that tight? Any thoughts? I have used the 1000 RPM PTO with the old shaft--no problem.
Thanks,
Ralph
I put new knives on my baler. The bottom horizontal roller on the knife side of the baler wasn't even touching the rail. Then I went to the left side of the plunger to adjust it over through the inspection plate. When I loosen the nutt and adjust the cam I can spin the cam in circles when the left upper roller is against the left rail. There is no adjustment left. My question is will new rollers fix this problem and give me a tighter plunger that I can adjust or will I probably have to replace rails? I can feel a groove worn in the upper left, rail but that should only be vertical play, I cant feel any deep grooves that are creating this horizontal play. I cant figure out where all the side to side play is other than maybe the rollers are smaller sized now than new. If anybody can understand this I would appreciate help. thanks Im headed up to measure the rollers I believe they are 2.5 od new.
I need parts for an Agri 8 wheel carted rake. Appears that parts have to come from Italy. Difference parts manuals have different numbers for the same parts. They have to call in the orders to Agri head quarters, then wait for a quote. Been almost a week and I haven't even got the parts ordered, and have no idea how long it takes to get here...Anybody having the same problem?
I have the chance to buy a hesston 4600 small square baler. Paint is ok, tires hold air and was last used two years ago. Anything I should know about this model, good or bad. I've never ran an inline baler before so shure on any big differences compared to a side pull baler.
Owners asking $1500, what do you guys think?
Thanks Ethan
From Progressive Forage Grower. ....informative.
Regards, Mike
The Claas 62 baler that I picked up a couple years ago has always had a jury-rigged net wrap system on it and I'd like to get that fixed. Currently, the system is set up with a manual switch to control the solenoid that diverts hydraulic pressure to either the netwrap system or to the gate cylinders. However, this jury-rigging eliminated the function of the electric motor which trips the knife, so I'm left stopping the baler and cutting the net wrap by hand. The original design had a control box that handled this by monitoring a reed swtich that was used to determine the amount of net wrap that had been applied to the bale and then activating the electric motor. I've checked everything except the control box, the DC motor and the wiring itself.
When I started looking at the motor I discovered that it has 4 wires. I know it is a DC motor and the system runs on 12V from the tractor, but that's about it. Anyone know a way of testing this motor to make sure it is OK?
Disc Mower 4 Disc : working width : 1600 mm
Disc Mower 5 Disc : working width : 2100 mm
Disc Mower 6 Disc : working width : 2450 mm
Agrozenit rotary rake has been specially designed for raking on even grounds with difficult borders .
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While I know that many of you are up to your eyeballs in water, we had a very dry winter with no snow and no groundwater recharge and spring is already very dry. Bad way to start the hay season. Guessing the averages will get steadied by a monsoon in the end of may that will last to the middle of June and wreck the hay crop. Are others on the east coast experiencing the same?
I've got a customer who is wanting to plant a 15 acre field in alfalfa and I was wondering what I need to do to prepare it for planting. Ive got access to any equipment I would need from other farmers and plan on taking soil test to get the pH and nutrient levels where they need to be. I don't have any experience with raising alfalfa so any ideas, suggestions, and tips are greatly appreciated. Thanks and have a good day.
Will likely soon have a small place in East Texas that will have about 10 acres of quality producing hay pasture. What are common arrangements that folks have to make such land available to a local person interested in growing, cutting and baling hay on the property. I don't need any of the hay currently, so is there a typical range per acre that land owners will charge to a hay producer. Any past experience with this would be appreciated.
Thanks
Missouri.....from Successful Farming. Give it 10 seconds to load.
Regards, Mike
Well I took the leap today, order a new Kuhn accumulator (1534) 15 bale on edge, a tie grapple (TN615) and regular grapple (615). Small square bales here I come again, no more round bale customers asking if I do small squares.
Now I just need all the 'tips and tricks' about using a grapple system. I seem to remember a posting something about 'I could teach a lot of grapple tricks in 20 minutes' and 'lubing the top of the accumulator (graphite?? maybe), postings on HT.
Maybe all the HTers tips and tricks can be pinned like, Mike10's tricks and tips. (GREAT reading BTW). I don't seem to have good luck on finding old previously posted good stuff on HT. Someday, I will have to show my grandkids HT, they will probably show me how locate stuff on HT (if I can pry them away from the games, FB, Twitter, SnapChat, etc.).
Told a friend about my leap today and he ask if I was willing to do some custom work. Now, I need to figure out the cost/profit of an unknown. Has anyone penciled out grapple custom rates in their area?
Some rational for my questions is there is nobody that I know of using a grapple system in my area. The closest dealer with an accumulator in stock is 130+ miles away. I blazing a trail again, we use hay baskets, throw wagons or flat decks (hand stacking) mainly in my area. I know of a couple of old NH pull stackers and one hay Bandit or Barron (metal straps are used about 30 miles away, just seen the finish product at a neighbor's farm last Sunday).
Thanks in advance (I can learn from reading and/or a video).
Larry
South Dakota.
The US Supreme court has ruled that Beef Products inc. defamation lawsuit against ABC can/will go to trial.
Regards, Mike
Need some help with a hydraulic cylinder for a Kuhn mower. When I go to lift the cylinder back to vertical, it will come up about half way and the oil comes out of the overflow port on the top end of the cylinder. Has anyone seen this before and can these cylinders be rebuilt? Can't seem to find a replacement cylinder on any web searches I have done. Thoughts and suggestions appreciated.
Saturday all the guys and a bunch of neighbors combined to brand, vaccinate and castrate calves. My question is what are alternatives to hot branding? Our farm is located in New Mexico and I don't know if there are legal issues regarding what is an acceptable form of identification. We are wondering about using the cold brand method and about the bolus RFID or ear tags. In particular, what is the cost of the RFID that the cow swallows? I can find plenty of sales information on the bolus RFID, but here is never a price given. I would rather have someone tell me the pros and cons of identifying our cattle by different means and the cost. Hot branding doesn't cost much except for the man hours, but I am wondering about a method that is less work for guys and something that is still effective. I wonder about permanence as well. For instance, if someone were to steal one of our calves that was identified by an ear tag, that seems to me the tag could be removed and no way to recover that calf. Any advise is greatly appreciated.
I have a small 50'x50' plot I'm going to plant some Silver Queen sweet corn in for supper eating.
I have some herbicide that is a few years old, it's been in the barn out of the sun..
Sim-trol 4L & Princep
Question is will the herbicide still be good... and how would I figure how much to put down in a small plot like this..
I have the plot plowed & have spread P&K, lime, and have plowed it in, I will smooth it Monday and prep for planting.
I will be using my tank sprayer and can get the dirt wet.
I have read the label for each and both say it can be used as a pre emergent on corn, but not specifically for sweet corn.
Thanks, Chris
Sprayed my Rye with .5 oz acre of Volta, which is generic Harmony. Label recommends .3 to .6 oz/acre. 5 days later I dont see any effects... Anybody have experience with this herbicide? I would have thought by now I would see something. Most of the "weeds" are the little purple violet type things that are all over this area in the spring. Also some chickweed and other small ground cover weeds.
I am still trying to determine what we are going to plant this year. We were going to plant twenty acres in RR alfalfa, but due to the higher cost and the fact that we have some oats left over from last year we decided to plant regular alfalfa with oats as a cover crop. We also have twenty acres that we are going to plant either Teff or Italian ryegrass. The Teff is $2.70/ pound, and the ryegrass is $1.69, so I am leaning towards the ryegrass, and the fact that we can plant it earlier than the Teff.
Now my seed guy recommends 15# per acre for Teff, and 20# per acre for the ryegrass. Does that sound about right.
What do you guys think of the Sorghum sudan grass? I can buy it for $1.59 per pound, but my seed guy said to plant it at 30# per acre.
Thanks in advance,
Jay
Didn't help much being he was already in a trap,lol.
I have been spraying some fence rows with this sahara was told it is good stuff the soil is damp and the bushes and vines have been cut so spraying it before it gets too tall but Im not seeing much results,been over a week since we started mixing a pound with 7 gals water hand spraying but how long does it take it to work or will it work better when the weather warms up and the vines get more actively growing ? I sprayed it straight no suffactant or roundup mostly spraying at the ground and putting it out til you could see the spray dripping off the vegetation. Thanks
Got 20 acress of wheat inside of hitensile fence on rented ground . Have 25 head holstein beeeding age heifers next to it was thinking about letting them graze it till the end of April and then plant corn in it . It is just 6to 8" tall probably very lush . Anyone got thoughts on bloat and its prevention ??
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