I spent a lot of time and money on overseeding og this fall and we had a toad strangler last night followed by predicted rainy weather for the next week topped by the good prospect of a tropical storm dumping on us on Sunday night. That said, we have all of Oct for that og seed to make something of itself. overseeded at 17#/ac.
I have already hiked my cutting height to the max on my 1409 but think it is still too low. I am considering a high stubble kit. Question for HTers-
Anyone using one of these on a NH1409 or 1410? What is your stubble height range with them? if you have lodged hay, do you take them off or just grin and bear it? Did it make a difference in sustainability of your stand of og? I have one field of timothy, but no alfalfa so that is not a concern. Thanks in advance. rick
I have been contemplating an accumulator. The problem is, I don’t completely like any of which are currently manufactured for retail sale… so, I guess I will build one.
I like the simplistic mechanical Kuhn design, but I do not like its height. As best I measure from photos, the “bed” is @30 deg angle. Has anyone used a clinometer to ascertain the pitch of the bed?
I assume Kuhn used this angle so that gravity would NEARLY-ALWAYS overcome friction. Does anyone know if it works well while going downhill? How steep of a hill?("Hills" are relative. I have hills her that some of you would call bumps. I have flat fields with bumps that some would call hills.) In theory, if it worked well while going down a 10 degree grade, then 20 degree bed would be sufficient for level ground?Can anyone offer insight on how steep of a downhill grade the Kuhn will operate reliably?
The Kuhns appears to have a the mechanical equivalent of a slatted bed to theoretically lessen friction of sliding bales. I am contemplating using rollers within the slatted design to further reduce friction, therefore further lowering the angle needed. I could readily manufacture rollers to fill the bill.
I have also thought of using the ground drive axle to drive sets of 4” or 8” belts (instead of the rollers) which would “pull” the bales down the bed. The belts would always be rubbing on the bottom of the bales: to me that option seems better than dragging on ground (A trade off between the height of a Kuhns and a drag behind model). I will be running a ground driven axle to enable the incorporation of another design idea, so the addition of drivetrain for belts would not be too much of an addition.
The needed grapple is a simple build; an accumulator/grapple would be easy as well; but I am VERY reluctant to drag/push bales across the ground for 2 main reasons: 1) I prefer to use sisal twine; I'm concerned the sisal can't stand the strain- and 2) I have been reading this site in attempts to make better hay-I don’t intend to make as-good-as-I-can-make hay then drag it off thru the dirt/dust like a caveman with a newly acquired love interest.
Guffaws, Harrumphs (Blazing Saddles), and/or directly pointing out my moronic misconception(s) is/are welcomed.
73, Mark
the bale monitor/computer on my mid-size NH590 baler is not working. I have been told there is no way to repair or replace this and I must replace my baler. Perfectly good baler, do not want to replace it. Would like some input on repairing or replacing this monitor so I can adjust the tension on my bales.
Fellow Hay People,
may want to check your county for Hay Show Contest! For any producers on here from Fort Bend County Texas might as well save yourself the time of collection and entry, for I am taking Number 1 spot! Ha Ha!
No Entry Fee. Testing results will give you % crude protein, % ADF fiber, and % TDN (energy).
Not sure I have the quality to win, but will be great to know how I am doing in comparison to the Pros!
Cheers!
Mark
2015-Hay-Show-rules.pdf 106.31KB 1 downloadsCan someone tell me the proper way to go about measuring a notched harrow disc? Measuring from low spot in the notch to opposite low spot I come up with roughly 19". The high spots are too worn to tell what they were. This harrow came standard with 20" with a option for 22" and I'm not sure what I have.
Thanks.
can the old keyed idler shaft be replaced with a newer splined shaft?
I have 200 acres of green oats cut,,cut with haybine...,wondering if plant moisture is different then dew moisture.. the swath feels dry yet the dew underneath is keeping the moisture in the tester higher,,, Hope im making sence,,, if I went by feel,, id bale it ,,but by the tester its tough,,,sometimes I think them testers should throw in the bush... Your thoughts guys....
I read a few post about 6 basket tedders but I have narrowed it down to these particular models. I would like to hear from those who have any experience with them. The pequea model is a tt6100 and the fella is actually a massey feguson td1348. Which would you chose if the money is close to the same? Thanks in advance.
Hi all,
I had some opportunities to talk to alfalfa growers and analyze data gathered from various sites and forums. One thing that struck me was the consistency in yield (in tons) per acre per cutting.
For example, someone in Texas reported 6 tons per acre per year with 4 cuttings (1.5 ton per acre per cutting), some high production farms in California are able to squeeze in 9 tons per acre per year with 7 cuttings (1.29 ton per acre per cutting), and some farm in Iowa managed to do do 5 tons per acre per year with 4 cuttings (1.25 ton per acre per cutting)
There are more data, but they are all between 1.25 tons to 1.75 tons per acre per cutting. Am I seeing something here? Do they sound right to you?
Thanks!
I have a bunch of this stuff showed up in a bermuda pasture this summer and not sure what it is. I familiar with Dalis and Bahia, but this looks totally different than both of those. Before I knew it, it had put on a good bunch of seed also, so I would like to look into spraying it out if possible next year. I am in central Texas, black land soil, just got soil test back and pH is 7.8.
Anyone know what this stuff is? Any info is greatly appreciated.
I have a John Deere 1460 discbine and I have broken two turtle shells. Good ole John Deere gets just under $300 a piece for them. I know Kuhn made the cutter bar for Deere. In fact the the turtle shell I picked up Saturday at the Milan IL warehouse was red thus a Kuhn. I am sure some knowledgable folks here know what Kuhn mode; uses the same part.
Thanks,
Bill
Mowed hay first part of the week, have tedded three times, still won’t be ready to bale today, depending on which forecast turns out right I may have the rest of next week to get it dry after Monday or the rest of next week might be crap too.
Have a wrapper available, I don’t think it will make even the lower 20’s today far as moisture, I seem to think I’ve read 20-22% moisture for sweet hay?
How hard a sell is it to horse customers?
Okay,
Vasey grass had been eliminated out of my coastal hay after 2 years of spraying a combination of Roundup 24 ounces per acre and Impose 12 ounces per acre.
Next up is Dallisgrass is now a problem in some areas of my cow pastures. A bunch of the stuff is in my Alicia field. After researching the web for products to kill it, there was some mention of Revolver and one other however they seem to be more geared towards residential problems.
My search of HayTalk revealed these two post from Mike:
Hey guys this is my first post here on hay talk. I've been throwing around the idea of trying to sprig coastal to blackland soil for additional hay pasture. Where I'm located here in North central tx all the sandy loam soils are taken only leaving blackland available for farm lease. Is it worth effort or not to try farming coastal in blackland soils? Any advice from you experienced guys like Mr Hay Wilson would be great!
Hello guys,,, Im baling greenfeed tomorrow with a 2007 NH 780A. Is there a setting or something to do to loosen the tightness of the bale even maybe soft core type ? And what is the highest moisture you would go.... Thanks
I see a lot of lower cost hay on CL, including some of mine 
1. Exactly what would you expect to be the "downgrade" to hay that makes it "cattle hay".
Higher moisture? Browner appearance? More weeds? Over-Mature stage baling?
All of the above? haha
2. Exactly what is it that beef herd cattle will tolerate that can be in a hay bale that horses (or their finicky owners) wont tolerate?
I'm trying to develop some kind of visual or content difference between what would "downgrade" a bale to cattle hay.
I see a lot of lower cost hay on CL, including some of mine
1. Exactly what would you expect to be the "downgrade" to hay that makes it "cattle hay".
Higher moisture? Browner appearance? More weeds? Over-Mature stage baling?
All of the above? haha
2. Exactly what is it that beef herd cattle will tolerate that can be in a hay bale that horses (or their finicky owners) wont tolerate?
I'm trying to develop some kind of visual or content difference between what would "downgrade" a bale to cattle hay.
Mods: please delete duplicate thread. sorry
More Stamps associates are being prosecuted....
Regards, Mike
Check the comment section also.
I am looking at one of these and wondering if anyone out there has used one or has information on one. What is the capacity compared to a John Deere 336? Thanks
Nearly all of the small place I'm farming is on a hill side. The lower ground is wet enough that walking across it between October and June leaves tracks in the field. The hill ranges from moderately steep to only an idiot would farm that. I'm looking for a small vehicle, most likely a ATV to do my spraying with. I'm looking for flotation and speed control. Nearly all of the ATV and side by sides now have a variable belt drive. Honda offers gear type transmissions and I believe Kubota offers a side by side with a variable hydro transmission. My question is how well does a variable belt drive, and other transmission types, keep a steady speed going up and down hills, I do know many have engine braking but I have no experience with one. Salesmen talk of spraying with belt drive but they are spot spraying and have no idea about trying to boom spray. At the speeds I will spray at a couple miles an hour is a huge variation in product applied. As I also have other chores to do with it, like dragging logs, I'm thinking about a higher horse power machine. Liquid cooling seems like a good thing at low speed and a higher work load than recreational riding. I have also wondered how well a 6 wheeler would corner/ turn around, especially with a load. Probably way to much for one post. Any advice or thoughts would be appreciated.
Nearly all of the small place I'm farming is on a hill side. The lower ground is wet enough that walking across it between October and June leaves tracks in the field. The hill ranges from moderately steep to only an idiot would farm that. I'm looking for a small vehicle, most likely a ATV to do my spraying with. I'm looking for flotation and speed control. Nearly all of the ATV and side by sides now have a variable belt drive. Honda offers gear type transmissions and I believe Kubota offers a side by side with a variable hydro transmission. My question is how well does a variable belt drive, and other transmission types, keep a steady speed going up and down hills, I do know many have engine braking but I have no experience with one. Salesmen talk of spraying with belt drive but they are spot spraying and have no idea about trying to boom spray. At the speeds I will spray at a couple miles an hour is a huge variation in product applied. As I also have other chores to do with it, like dragging logs, I'm thinking about a higher horse power machine. Liquid cooling seems like a good thing at low speed and a higher work load than recreational riding. I have also wondered how well a 6 wheeler would corner/ turn around, especially with a load. Probably way to much for one post. Any advice or thoughts would be appreciated.
Hello,
To make a long story short, I cut my third crop (80 bales) early so I could go to the lake over Labor Day weekend. It appears my hay is a 'little hot' to offer as free choice. I've attached the Feed & Forage Report.
I like feeding free choice hay. I have 6 bail rings for my cows. it last them 2-3 days. I feed bales on Wednesday and Saturday evening.
Anyone have any good idea's?
Things I've thought of:
1) Sell it. (hay around hear as dropped in price)
2) Shred it and some other lower quality hay, and skid steer feed it on the weekend.
I'm looking for other ideas.
FYI -- I don't have any TMR or bale processing equipment. I would have to have pay someone to come and process it for me.
Hello,
I have 17 acres of hay fields that I have inherited from my grandfather, plus the farm. I think/know they need to be fertilized since the yield is getting less and less. I planted these fields for a hay (25%) and graze (75%) and prices around here are great for good quality horse hay. Granted, you have to put up with horse people, but they do pay good money for good hay. Here's my question,
I broke a new Holland 570 sq baler needle tip. First broke needle for me in all my years baling hay. It was of course my fault. I was working on clearing a knot off the right bill hook so I had the rivet and cotter pin removed to raise the frame to clear the knot. I got right back on the tractor without realizing I forgot to replace the rivet pin and cotter pin and the next cycle the twine jerked the knotter frame up out of position and when the needle entered what should have been the billhook area I suppose it struck the bottom of the knotter frame. I only go into detail so everyone can see forgetting this little item can cost big time. Anyway back to the topic title, Has anyone had any experience with the brand new aftermarket needles? They claim to meet or beat OEM specs.
tideman7
For those of you that have a semi-litigious mind set, here goes=
I have had several major screw-ups from the local co-op involving both spreading fertilizer and herbicides that resulted in significant losses of future hay crops. I have settled with the co-op on those transgressions from a year ago and from this spring, but now there is a new one in play so I thought I would inquire on HT to see if my thinking is in line with others that use these services. From the onset, I use a professional service to spread fertilizer thinking that the cost of per ac to spread is worth it to me as I do not have a gps on my tractor and don't have to go get the fertilizer. My expectation is that I am getting what I pay for and it is properly applied. I have not had issues with that expectation for the most part but one field was totally missed this spring however, I was charged for the fertilizer and for the spreading.
Herbicide application is a whole different kettle of fish. I don't have an applicators license so I can't get some of the herbicides I use frequently. I also don't have booms on my tractor sprayer, used for spot spraying. Mostly, I don't want to ride a tractor in lingering spray mist. I also don't really want a license and do my own spraying as it leads to the greater possibility of frivolous lawsuits from neighbors. That said, last year, the Co-op sprayed paraquat instead of roundup on fields going to be seeded in new og. I knew immediately and we finally got to a point where they agreed that is what happened but the driver never admitted to it. A different vendor had sprayed a field the previous fall, sprayed the whole field with pasturegard and then realized he had too much liquid left in the tank so sprayed the field again having no idea if he over dosed part or not. The truck nozzles were plugged up or something.
This August in prepping the same fields to go into new og, again the Co-op was to spray roundup (used touchdown) on 3 fields totaling 14 ac of existing teff. Now teff is really easy to kill and there were a bunch of spots in the field that were already dead from lodging, The morning after spraying, I jumped on the fields and seeded. One of the fields was killed deader than a doornail. The other two, sprayed before the effective kill field were not noticeably affected. So, now I have a beautiful stand of og coming up in 14" tall teff. My concern is that it will fall down and smother the og. My point is that I have not had proof positive damage yet but anticipate a problem.
My question to HT is: Do I have a legal right to expect that the professional applicator who is in that express business to effectively deliver the service I contract for and does that entity owe me damages for their respective failure? I have one field that the kill is complete in and the og is coming up so getting a per ac yield will be easy if I end up with a spotty stand in the other two.
Sorry for the long post, but the issue is important, can't believe I am the only one who has experienced this. Felt the context was important to the reader to understand the issue. rick
Recently had a problem with an IH 47 baler where the tines on the intake seemed to mostly get trapped behind the shields. Noticed that the baler was feeding very slowly. A very short time later, the idler sprocket on the chain drive to the intake broke free from its mounting bracket (I assume the drive chain was overloaded).
Now I have never torn apart the intake on a baler. Is it possible to remove the entire intake as a unit ? I figured I could make a support stand for it out of dimensional lumber and put it at a comfortable working height so that everything could be examined in detail and work on the problems until the intake rotates freely again, at which point it could be re-installed on the baler. It seems to be in an awful position to work on while mounted to the baler since it is so low to the ground and hard to access.
Has anyone pulled the entire intake like I am suggesting ? The intake pivots for raising and lowering so it seems like there would not be that much holding it in position other than the pivot mechanism ? The only parts diagrams I have found are the ones at Messicks, and while helpful, they are too small to figure out how the intake works or how it can be disassembled.
Any tips ?
IH47 intake schematic.pdf 162.73KB 1 downloadsSo, here's what brings me to this forum...
May 2014: My daughter's best friend (her horse) dies. She is devastated, of course. A girl I work with thought it might help if my daughter had something to take care of...something to take her mind off not caring for a horse. So, she knew a lady that was bottle raising a lamb that had been kicked in the head by a calf. The lamb was missing an eye and had some neurological damage (back legs didn't work the best - stiff and not so steady). I've never had sheep, never even been exposed to sheep except at petting zoos but I'm pretty laid back so I was an idiot and said "Sure, we'll finish raising the lamb and when he's old enough he can just stick around as a pet." Famous last words, right?
August 2014: My daughter is headed to college. She'll come home every weekend but she won't be here daily. I get Nick (the bottle lamb) a little friend, a bottle raised (but skittish) hair sheep (named Emily). Anyway, Nick and Emily are two peas in a pod. The girl that gave Nick to us told me that since he was bottle raised, he wouldn't get mean and that it was up to us to decide if we wanted to castrate him. She said he wouldn't be interested in sex till the next year. Both of those were lies.
March 2015: Lie #1. My haired sheep is acting weird (overly friendly) and she is swelling around the middle. Uh-oh. Came home from work one day and there is a baby in the barn. Not interested in sex, my butt!
May 2015: Lie #2. Nick isn't so sweet anymore. He charged my daughter and knocked her to the ground then repeatedly rammed her. She got out of the field by keeping one of his ears twisted while walking (stumbling) to the gate. She's a smart kid and stayed on the side with the missing eye.
Fast forward to now: We can't even go in the field with Nick. He charges and rams. He still likes you to pet him through the fence and feed him tidbits of whatever. He's a different creature if you try to go in the field. He bullies the females at feeding time. He's becoming dangerous. He slammed me around a bit this weekend when I was trying to dump the trough to refill it (my goodness, his skull is hard!). If a child or a senior went in there, he would really hurt them. I'm not sure why the gal that gave him to me told me he wouldn't be aggressive since he was bottle fed. Everything I've read in the past few days indicate otherwise. Apparently, according to online stuff, he has no respect for us, thinks we are his own species and will treat us as such. Which leaves me with a dilemma....
I planned on castrating him before his daughter reached sexual maturity so I wouldn't have inbred sheep (does it even matter with sheep?) I divided the field so they couldn't do the deed. She escaped her field and was in his field....I caught them in the act. Nice, real nice. I separated them again. She's sneaky and I have no clue how she keeps getting in his field. After a week of separating them each day and trying to avoid breaking any of my bones from being rammed, I figure it's too late to bother and just open the gate between fields. Screw it. I'm probably just destined to have a weird, genetically weak baby in the Spring. Whatever male babies arrive this Spring are getting banded as soon as their doodads drop! I
Will castrating him at a year and a half old help? Is it too late for that? Do I buy one of those ram guards that block their front vision (the reviews on those were only great if the ram has horns...Nick does not)?
You see, my mistake here was trying to keep him as a pet. I've recently learned that livestock are not pets. At least not 200 pound obnoxious livestock. My laying hens....I still consider those pets. I have decided they are my livestock speed.
Any advice is appreciated. Has anyone here castrated a ram after it's sexually mature and has mated? If so, did it change his behavior at all?
Thanks!
I have 2 places that is leaking oil and has worn movement on top of my cutterbar.I believe it is a bolt that goes through cutterbar that hold spurgear.Anybody here ever had this problem?
Dan Undersander has a presentation on hates and &c for hay.
http://ift.tt/1Fsr1nA
It fits very well with the WV presentation on curing hay. http://ift.tt/1xzqPva
When they are talking about hay being at 40% moisture they really are saying, for that climate, the hay will be no lower moisture than 40% when the measured humidity is in he 90% range, (when measured down next to the windrow or swath. )
Dan Undersander has some interesting graphs that illustrate how the hay is curing. The average moisture will be an average of the stem moisture and the leaf moisture. Seldom are the leaf moisture and Stem Moisture be equal in production hay baling.
Read them both and then study them both. I used a copy machine to copy each graph and then copied it again to cover a full page with the graph.
Remember these graphs are illustrations and in the real world will have a wide zone not a thin line.
Remember Operator discretion is important.
Looks like AGCO have finally updated the cutter on their large square balers:
I think the old design spanned back to the days when Hesston was still building the 4760/4790 so this has been a long time coming. Key points are:
-Finer cut length, down to 1.5"
-More capacity, 10% faster rotor speed
-Rotor with replaceable teeth
-Hydraulically controlled knives, from the cab. Based on the video they're hydraulically engaged, no springs at all.
And the biggest upgrade: A slide-out knife drawer
I am a very small time hay and beef producer in eastern Ohio. Its time to clean out the manure pit so I have some room for manure this winter. I have a couple hayfields that are getting thin (do not own a seeder or grain drill) and was wondering if mixing in a few pounds of seed in each manure spreader load would be effective in any way?
The title of this post says it all--should I forget about running a small baler from the 8N PTO? Should I get a baler that has its own motor? (I'm talking used, low-priced equipment for 2-3 acres of hay).
Thanks much for any advice!
The pto shaft on our 8312 broke going down the road. We are looking for some parts on the pto shaft to make repairs. Anyone scraping one out where the drive line would be good? I won't be around the computer so you can call Rich at 309-944-7827.
Looking for seasoned advice, for what may be a simple fix?
Took my IH 230 swather down on steep, treacherous hill, to access low ground to mow canary grass...and when I was (trying) to barrel-through a low, wet spot, he began sputtering and immediately became mired in the clay. I winched it back out, but I am stuck in a different manner, because now I don't trust it to back up the narrow path up the hill (deadly, precipitous drop off on one side, mature trees to roll back against on the other side if he acts up)...
Occasionally, I have to tap on the carb to get it to run/start, and it seems to be a needle and seat problem. I am suspecting this may be causing the fluctuation problem too, causing the governor to move back and forth rapidly, as perhaps it is getting too much gas(?).
Can a guy pull these two out together, without removing the carb? Perhaps it is just gunked up? Can I purchase the two as an assembly and install without buying a carb kit?
This seems to occur when the engine is warm, and it runs well when cold…Am I on the right trail here with the needle and seat/carburetor?
Thanks for your advice!
Mark
I know the first day of fall is Wednesday, however I am looking for advice on "Best practices of prepping a Coastal Bermuda patch going into Spring... I am going to do some controlled burning in the spring. I am looking for information of timing and order of the below and any other suggestions as well.
From an article they suggest the following:
Prescribed burning during the dormant period prior to spring growth will remove excess dead forage; warm the soil; destroy some insects, winter weeds, and weedy grasses; and promote faster greenup. Disadvantages include fire hazards, the need for a burning permit, baring the soil for possible erosion, and removing protection from late freezes. Timing is critical and must be done after weeds have emerged but before bermudagrass greenup. Waiting too long delays bermudagrass regrowth and allows for emerging weeds to outgrow the grass. A suggested time for burning is about 1 week prior to the last average frost date.
Therefore from the Farmers Almanac the average last frost date for Sealy Texas is February 18th.
My questions:
FYI, I have never done a prescribed burn before, however I am very fortunate to have a good friend who is a retired Fire Marshall who is going to show me the correct way it's done.
Thanks and be safe!
Mark
Saw it mentioned in the shoutbox this a.m. and found the story here http://ift.tt/1MyQG0A
Same story here but click on the pictures to the left and there's one with a photo of dead blister beetles found in hayhttp://ift.tt/1V5ShKt
We are located in west central Illinois and I used to think that blister beetles couldn't tolerate our harsh winters but I researched them and learned that they can be found in almost all of the continental states. I do believe there is a greater proliferation of them in the southern states. I've had a few customers ask me if there were any blister beetles in the hay before but now that this story has broke, I'm sure the picky horsey people will be even more picky.
We have not really seen much of these beetles in our area. Has anyone else in the Midwest seen them?
Since Mil-Stak is now a member of HayTalk, was a good opportunity to find out if there is a Mil-Stak conversion for a 1033 Stackliner? Mine is worn out and since I need to rebuild it, I figured its just as good a time as any to convert to a 3x3 stacker.
We made the decision to change from big bales then two string smalls to a new JD459 silage baler this year for our cattle feed. For a wrapper we bought a Diamond from poland.
Our first feeding bales were this last week, the sudan/sorghum (super sugar) hay is very nice-smells yummy and the cows are all over it. The machine worked very good when hooked to our JD 110 tlb with the electric over hydraulic valves.
At first I was putting way too many wraps and modified the program. When dropping the bale I figured out to be enough distance to prevent contact to the previous bale as it would sometimes rip the plastic.
Next year we will pay better attention to the ground where we will stack the bales, maybe fence it in as some stupid coyote started walking around and crapping on top of the bales plus clawed a couple (??). Plus grade off and spray.
Me and Patrick are real happy with the new program, we will wrap most everything as retailing hay sucks!
We are going to listen to forecasters (dumb-I know) and try to be ready for a wet and warm winter weather. The plan is get the 65 acre pasture in tritacale/oats/rye. In 97-98 we got a LOT of rain and they say this should be more. Our normal wet summer was lots of annoying very small storms that didn't contribute much but made us very happy that we wrapped all our feed hay!
I'm pretty sure I know the answer (won't work), but would a L4200 Kubota tractor (with dual remotes) operate a Hesston 1014 pull type swather (14' with conditioner)? I'm only doing 6-acres and found one if good shape for a decent price.
Thanks in advance!
Can somebody tell me what kind of weed or "grassy weed" this is? I'm sure you've seen it. It grows "flat" with stems radiating out up to 2 feet or longer, then they curve upward into vertical stems sticking straight up 12-18 inches. Sometimes the entire plant can be almost 4 feet wide. About half of our front yard is now consumed by this stuff, and it's spreading rapidly in our pastures. The rest is bermuda.
If you dig it up, it leaves a hole in the ground the size of a salad bowl. Is there any way to control it, or can we at least identify it? These pics were right after mowing it. The center part looks dry and dead, and the radiating stems are green.
One person said it was "Dallisgrass" but to me Dallisgrass looks sparser - this stuff is really thick. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
