Thanks,
Chris
JD 467 Belt Tracking Issue
Hi there,
so we have this 535 baler since quite a few years already. Bought it used back when.
One problem we keep having is a certain bolt keeps breaking, at least once a season. Trying to figure out why.
Bolt I'm talking about is on the left side of the baler (driver side), where the pick up float adjustment and the hydraulic pick up meet. Would love to show you on the part diagram, I've attached the diagram with the parts list, wouldn't let me save jut the diagram unfortunately.
This bolt is where the whole hydraulic pick up and pick up float adjustment pivots, it's about 5 inches or so long and has a bushing on it too.
In the diagram it is bolt #23.
Why does that keep breaking on us. Anybody ever have that same problem and figured out what caused it? Is the float adjusted too loose, too tight? Is the hydraulic cylinder for the pick up not adjusted right?
I'm at a loss. Help!
I bought a N H 640 autowrap on saturday at an auction. nice clean piece of equipment. brought it home and greased it up and oiled the chains. never used one like this before and the auctioneer said no monitor necessary, just start baling. so i had some hay down and ready when i got home so i decided to try it out. i realized there was a manual trip lever on it so i figured that would be an alternative. i baled until the arrow got into the stop zone and didn't see or hear anything so i stopped and tripped the lever. it tied real nice, then it kept going without cutting the string and started wrapping again. figured that was what it is was supposed to do. then it kept going. so i shut it off when the string arms came back to the right position. cut the string and discharged the bale. started it back up and it still kept wanting to tie. after more investigation i realized the slide bar that rotates the knife cutting the string and stopping the dog on the wheel that runs the tying mechanism was not sliding back into place to stop the tie. i can push it so its not frozen/rusted. what pushes or holds that in place after the string arms come back in the baling position ?
Thanks
I planted RR Alfalfa as well as conventional 3 weeks ago today. We are now getting our first rain since i planted. We are supposed to get 1/4 inch. It looks like i'll probably be replanting it in the spring..........Is anyone else in the same boat?
Just bought a JD 456 Silage Special at auction of a meticulously cared for horse farm. This machine has been kept indoors, baled 300 bales a year by its original owner and looks new. Having only dealt before with New Holland round balers, I am a little clueless about the tricks of this machine, though I have seen the nice bales it makes. Any particular things to know? How wet can you bale grass hay with this? The pickup is way under the machine compared with the New Holland-any tricks to know if you are plugging? The haying season is over here, so all I have been able to do is spin it up, try the hydraulic twine wrapper, open the gates and so forth and have found exactly one thing to fix- a small bearing in the bale pressure indicator. No weird sounds, belts in A-1 shape, no leaks and hardly any rust. Advice appreciated.
Hi I have just starting out my hay and straw business and this is my 4th year. Last year I just bought a 1044 New Holland bale stacker. It does not have auto tie. I hear of people adding tie tears in by hand but me and my neighbors can't figure out how to arrange the bale on the table to make them tie everything in well and keep the stack standing. I am building a new barn next year and would prefer not to have my stacks falling over. Can anyone help or give me any tips on how to do them?
I have a 654 that the (wide) pickup is jamming. It is happening on the righthand side, in the first stuffer slot, between the stuffer and the floor roll. It happened last year and it turned out that the clutch on the starter roll ( which I guess is actually for the floor roll) was bad. Not only was the clutch slipping but a couple of the spring washers had cracked in two. I had it fixed by the local dealer and it worked well for second cutting last year and first cutting this year. As soon as I hit the field to bale this years second, it starting doing it again. I was able to get one bale started but after that it would jam almost as soon as I hit the windrow. I should have checked which clutch was slipping while I was out in the field but, just assumed it was the pickup clutch this time. But, while I was examining things, I found that the spring washers on the roller clutch turn quite easily by hand. Should they be doing this? I know he replaced the two clutch disks and the 6 spring washers. Or does anyone have another idea.
Thanks,
Doug
We have been shopping for a new Krone mower and getting a good deal of variation in prices from dealers. So much so that one dealer has perked our interest in a 320 EC over the AM 320. Some dealers have the EC $1000 or more higher than the AM. One dealer is offering the EC at nearly the same price as other Dealers have priced the AM. Regardless of price, is the EC that much better? Is the AM actually an economy mower?
I have a NH h7450 that I am having trouble getting back in time. It is only the end disc that I am having trouble with specifically the right side. I have had the bearings go out in that module but when I rebuilt it the timing has not been exactly correct ever since. If I put new knives on they will touch. I have remove the top cap and tried to adjust one spline forward and backward but it does not help. I have also replaced the splined shaft between the modules, but the end disc still has a fair amount of slop in it compared to the rest of the cutterbar. Is there some special procedure to timing the cutterbar other than every other disc being perpendicular to the other. Also the top cap gear, the pinon gear and the shaft between the modules did not appear to have that much wear on them.
Thanks for any help
I lost my kick stand and spring that holds the machine up when stored. I was cutting some very heavy sorghum sudan. I checked with the dealer but would be back ordered until April 2021. Anyone know anyone parting out a 5209 red?
The Twine Actuator extends and retracts manually with out a problem. On automatic the Twine Actuator extends and then seems to continue to try to extend. It doesn't shut off. It makes a clicking sound when it extends all the way. I've shut it off every time when it does this now I'm wondering is this normal and after it times out will it complete the twine tie process.
I bought a new Tedder this spring. I Tedded about 15 acres of hay and half of the bolts were either loose or missing. The dealer rebuilt the Tedder. Now when I use it, it windrolls the hay. Had the salesman and the Vermeer rep out and they say it’s because it’s short and thin hay. It seems it throws the hay behind the two middle drums and not the outside drums. The cheap Tedder I had before I bought this one did a better job than this one. Does anyone have this Tedder? If so, does yours do this?
Hello; I'm looking at a Vermeer R23 twin rake. What's the good, the bad and the ugly? Currently using a NH 259/260 combo and want to go to unitized model. Thanks in advance
I have a 10 acre pasture in NE Oklahoma that I would like to try to recover. The current state is a Johnson/Crab/Thistle mix with some Bermuda and Fescue mixed in. I would say that looking out over the field it is at this point it is 50% overrun with Johnson grass. To my knowledge it has been left to seed Johnson grass for years but was cut and bailed for hay. With our weather predicted to be mid 80's for the next week or so, I was thinking of 8 oz of Panoramic 2SL and then possibly follow up with sprayed 0-0-25 before the first freeze. I would like to knock down the weeds to a point that I could use a wiper rig with roundup this spring to catch any leftovers. Any experience that could be shared is appreciated. Any suggestions on a pre-m to continue the yearly battle?
I have a 10 acre hay field that we reseeded this spring that we are having quite a bit of weed issues. I'm thinking of spraying for broadleaves this week before it gets too cold. Had a thought of interseeding wheat or rye into it this fall. Would this help my grass get more established in the spring before the weeds? Thought of baling it, and then spraying again in the spring. Any other options? Thinking 1.5 bu/ac on seed.
Hello fellow friends,
I am in a bit of a quandary, we had a 100 year old hickory tree come down and crush our Kuhn 4120 rake a few days ago. I have been telling myself for years when this rake goes I would replace it with a Krone 46T. Now that I'm suddenly faced with having to replace it I am at a loss (no pun intended). I have been happy with the Kuhn for the most part, besides giving up on the curtain support continually breaking. A few friends have had bad luck with their Kuhns exploding on them.
I have gotten very used to the RH delivery, particularly when small square baling. Many of our fields are not normal with odd bends and shapes. I typically go round and round the headlands to start and then do go back and forth. Usually baling right behind the rake Some times making double rows depending of course. For Round baling usually double and I can care less on direction.
RH also makes sense as the controls are always on the RH.
So in short I am looking for advice on why LH would work better for me as apposed to sticking with RH.
On another note if anyone is looking for parts off a 4120!!
Thanks in advance,
Michael.
I baled straw this summer for a local farmer using my JD 336 baler and with the size of their windrows I was having trouble collecting it all without it spilling out of the side of the pick up. Their combine did lay the windrow a bit to wide to begin with so I did rake it, just a NH roll bar rake nothing fancy, but it seemed that they were still to dense. Is there anything I can do to mitigate this problem? Windrow divider? Some sort of extra pick shields or guards?
Hi all - We could really use your help in figuring out what's wrong with our NH 1431 discbine. I'll also start by saying that we're not very knowledgeable or experienced with it, so please keep that in mind.
Something broke the last time that we used it. When it's on, the #3-6 modules from the left don't turn. But if you turn them by hand, those 4 will turn together. So - do you have any thoughts about what's broken and how we fix it?
Also, we didn't think ahead and took apart one of the modules before marking it for the timing (ugh). What's the easiest/best way to fix that?
Thanks for your help...
Got my baler cleaned up today, greased, put away and tarped for the winter. Hayguard applicator removed and put in basement where it won't freeze. Clipped fields with new seedlings, some of which are almost 2" now. Soil samples tomorrow and tedder cleanup. Rake is being used by a friend after his broke down. Life is good. Enjoying evenings by the fire pit.
I am a confirmed Stihl guy through and through. However, the small carbs on the mini saws, and blowers are a real pain even with their proprietary Motomix fuel. So thinking ahead, I am considering a 20V blower the next time we get one. Primary use is daily blowing of a 12' x 60' concrete aisleway in a horse barn (hey, it's what you do for horse women). About 3-5 minutes use per day. Does anyone on HT use one for that purpose and if so, would you make the same purchase again? Thanks.
I bought a used 9ft Vicon disc mower last year and didn’t notice that the data plate was missing. I’m trying to find out if anyone knows a resource that can be used to identify the model number. So far I’ve cut 90 acres three times and like the way it works but i need to replace some worn parts and have no idea of the model or serial number.
This is my spare baler and I just put all new bearings on the thrower Havent used it in a few years since the bearing went bad. Its the back up in case the main baler breaks. I fired it up and greased it and oiled it and started feeding it hay my hand. Bales started coming out crooked. The string closest to the pick up was longer and the other side was shorter. Ran a bunch through it and all the same. Is it because I am feeding it manually and all the hay is stuffing up closest to the pick up because hand feeding. If I try it in a windrow once I bale again I wonder if it will work better. Any Ideas any one.
There's a couple of very old square balers at an auction near me. Right now I only do round bales but wouldn't mind having a square baler as a backup and to do a few hundred small squares per year. Being that I don't really need one and that I don't plan on using it that much I can't justify spending much for one so I thought one of these auction ones might work for me.
I do a lot of mechanical DIY stuff but I don't know much about square balers. Is there anything I can check with it sitting there on the lot? I already went grabbed a hold of everything I could and shook it around. The knotter on the 268 has some small pieces of string snagged on it, is that a bad sign? Maybe I'll run and post a picture to explain it better but in addition to the string that's ran through the machine there's some small pieces of other string here and there on the knotter. You can tell the 268 was ran this year and everything is greased on it.
The 68 - I talked to the auctioneer and he knew a little bit about this one. He said it came from an "estate situation", worked when last used but hasn't been used for a couple years. Looks like it's had straw bales sitting in it the entire time. He said he doesn't know anything about the 268.
As I'm baling along I'm popping lots of shear bolts. After backing off and burnishing the main slip clutch and then adjusting it looser and looser trying to keep from shearing bolts I've got it so it'll juuuuuuuuuust work, for a while. As I put in yet another shear bolt I notice the flywheel moves forward, away from the main gearbox and stops at about 1/4". The collar/bushing/spacer between the flywheel and the gearbox can move easily forward and backward 1/4" when the shear bolt is tight. Would this allowable freeplay be helping shear the bolts? In my mind it would be worse on the shear bolts. Should I be shimming this gap up?
Came across aftermarket seed flow plates for the JD no-til drills couple years ago but not for the 450. Now I can't find them. Sometimes not good at saving sites when I find them. Just wondered if anybody knew of a site. Would like to modify mine for both the grain and grass seed box. If none available aftermarket may see about a metal fabricator. Just would make life a little more easier.
Thanks
This is my first year baling my own hay. The equipment I bought is a bit tired and my NH 270 baler's slip clutch just went out. Can anyone save me some research time and tell me where I could purchase parts online?
Thanks.
I am working on renting a hayfield about 35 acres that is part of a pasture that I already rent. Trying to come up with a plan that will be fair to both me and the landlord. Ohio doesn't really have a rental rate for the eastern part of the state. We do quite a few different things with the ground we have. Some is free, some the owner gets a part of the hay, and others we pay rent on, most is $20-30/acre. Hay in this area goes for $20-40/bale, depending on quality. We can sell $30 hay every day, $40 hay takes a little more work. Fertilizer removal rate on this field would be about $71.50/acre (64-46-120 applied). Our 4x5 bales weigh 800-1000 lbs. An average 1st cutting would give us about 5 bales/acre. This year we were a little below that on average. Ohio average yield is about 2.5-3 tons per acre, which we get pretty close to. It costs us about $12/bale to make a bale on the 5 bale average, which does not include rent or fertilizer. That does include equipment, fuel, labor. Landlord will also want lime. 2 ton/acre applied is about $91/acre here. I need to take soil samples before I make any decisions just to be sure where we are. This ground just been mowed 2-3 times/year. Other farmers in the area, but owner isn't going to let anyone take it for free.
I said all of that to say this. If I break this all down to a cost per bale on our 5 bale average: Fertilizer $15.23 + Production $12 = 27.23/bale. If we jump up to 7 bales/acre fertilizer costs go down, so bale cost is $22.88. Not including rent or lime. Hauling costs $5/bale.
I'm thinking instead of a rent per acre to offer a rent per bale, in the neighborhood of $4-5 per bale. At our 5 bale/acre average, this would be around $20/acre, which is pretty typical of our rent. It would also give me an incentive to a really good job, because as my production increases my cost to make a bale goes down. Also, the landlord would make more the more hay I make. Would this be a good way to approach the owner? My only concern is if he wants $10/bale, I don't think that I can make that work.
On lime, who is responsible? As I said, I haven't pulled any soil samples yet. Hay hasn't been removed from this field in 3-4 years, it's just been mowed. We probably wouldn't have to apply lime every year, maybe every 2-3 years depending on pH. At $91/acre for 2 ton applied, we're looking at $6-10/bale additional for lime.
So, using these figures on let's say 7 bales/ac/year (hoping more fertile fields=more hay) 3 tons/ac
$12 Production
$10.21 Fertilizer
$4.33 Lime (2 T/3 yrs)
$5 Hauling
$5 Rent
$36.54 grand total to make a bale
$85.26/ton estimate
So, long story short....will this work? Any other suggestions? Do my numbers line up with yours?
I have my scratch pad of figures if anyone would like to take a look.
I have two 3-4 month old calves, do I, or should I separate them from mamma or will mamma wean them at some point, I have a bull in with them and I'm fairly sure he's doing his job.
Thanks
Well I finally broke down a few years back and bought a brand new NH 5060 baler as I was tired of my old JD Baler breaking down. I thought I got a great deal on a brand new 2013 model in 2016 but since day one I have had knotter problems, usually just missed ties but annoying for a new baler. So this year during first cut the knotter really broke, frame in four pieces, billhook 2 pieces wiper arm 2 pieces and 2 crown gears destroyed, went to my dealer and he said I should probably fix it my self to the tune of about 850.00 in parts alone.When I took it all apart I discovered that there were some parts missing in the original assembly, mainly so called "special washers" and there were spacer washers in there place one worn so thin it looked like it was made out of lace. There was also blue and straw colored metal on the assembly mounting brackets ! Now its all back together with all the factory parts according to the service manual and seems to be working fine. I have called and emailed NH costumer service and disscused this with them looking for some sort of support but they say the baler is to old ! By the way I forgot to say I have only put about 6000 bales through this machine, it gets cleaned and waxed every fall and is stored under cover always !! I am deeply disappointed with New Holland and their support and really should have stuck with the old JD.
I've watched a video on the Class 5300 quadrant and there they say that all their baler use a Raspe single knot knotters. Raspe also makes double knot knotters. In this video they say that the only advantage for double knotters is in high density bales as they can use a stronger twine.
They also say that the single is simpler and easier to maintain/repair. Do you all think that this is the reason for not using doubles?
Good Afternoon!
I've started volunteering at a local farm and animal rescue and being fairly mechanically inclined have been asked to look at a problem with a New Holland Stackliner 1034. Please forgive any wrong terminology since I'm completely new to this.
What I'm told happened at some point last season is that, "something got our of sync." One person says the rolling rack was brought down on/ hit the pushers. Another says it just got stuck. The result (as I see it) is that the pulley on the end of the of the piston got too close to the cable termination on the rolling rack which caused the pulley assembly to be driven off the track. Then it jammed between the rolling rack and the frame below the table when they tried to cycle it forward. They tried to beat it free, which I'll be honest and say I also tried until I realized the problem was the cable tension. I then loosened the Crosby clips on the rolling rack and got a little slack in the system but there's still way too much tension to get things to straighten out. What I figure I need to do is to secure the rolling rack and completely remove the cable then re-reeve it through the pulleys with the rolling rack at the proper distance from the pulley on the end of the piston. I'll also need to fix (or replace) the track where it's bent and possibly replace the top sheave in the pulley assembly since the cable has chewed it up.
I'd greatly appreciate if someone with experience on this machine could take a look at the attached photos and let me know their thoughts. Am I on the right track? If not, could you point me in the right direction. A good photo (or sketch) of the correct cable routing/ spacing would also be appreciated. Happy to answer any other questions that I can that would help in getting this fixed. The goal is to have it working for this weekend, but we have other options if that can't happen.
Mark
Has anyone had the chance to use a Bomar Bale Master Round Bale Mover. I believe that they were made in Murfreesboro Tennessee in the 1990's and 2000's. I don't know if they're manufactured anymore. I'm looking to purchase one and would like any input available. Thanks
Im curious to hear from anyone who purchased a new Vermeer 504 CLASSIC round baler with net wrap and their experience with it. Good baler, bad baler, ok baler, swear by it, swear at it........... What was the price range and approx how many bales to you roll up with it each season??
Hey Everyone,
I have been looking at buying a disc mower conditioner. We had Massey Ferguson 1363 for a couple years but the first time we used it brand new I mind you the gear box blew out. Then after that was fixed the pto shaft broke then the gearbox went out again. So finally they put these sides on it so you couldn't turn but prevented these problems. But earlier this year my grandpa sold it only 3 years of use not more than a 1000 acres on it.
Now this year I was stuck was the old trusty just plain sickle mower was a pain in the butt. So I want to go back to a disc mower conditioner. I have been doing a lot of research reading reviews and forums like this one. A lot of guys say Moco are very good mowers and they also say go for a center pivot machine as well. So I have been looking and researching and this John Deere 730 came up not a swivel hitch though. It looks very nice, impeller as well. I want to go away from any rolls to many parts and things can go wrong with them i've read. With the mf 1363 we also had steel roller problems too.
I feel like the 730 would be nice in my operation only a little over 9.5 ft which is nice and its center pivot. I know that the 530 is pretty much the same machine but just this is a center pivot. Also but I would allso want to know how well a kubota 70 at the pto tractor could pull it. Could a 70pto tractor pull this at least 4mph in heavy hay? Does anyone have one of these machines or know more about this machine. Any big problems with them? Please give me some feedback thanks. All thoughts about any john deere machines side pull anything please do share.
Here is the link to the machine i'm looking at. https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/196085989/2004-john-deere-730
Farmboy
HEY
LOOKING AT A NEW HOLLAND 310 BALER. ITS IN NICE SHAPE, 1,800 BUCKS IN SE MN WITH A THROWER
GUY BALED WITH IT THIS YEAR AND CAN RUN IT FOR ME. LOOKS CLEAN IN THE PICTURES
I'M LOOKING TO MAKE 1,000-2,000 BALES MAX PER YEAR
GOOD BALERS ?
A few of us have been discussing and debating the idea of leaving a wagon load of slightly high moisture square bales outside for a couple days to dry further. So what is this forums opinion? Will this help reduce moisture and the chance of heat, or make it worse and damage the hay with evening dew?
I am thinking about breaking down and getting a 4 basket tedder. I am wondering how much time they typically cut off the drying cycle, what to look for in a tedder, and how to use them?
I live in east central Iowa near the Mississippi. We have lots of humidity and frequent rain. We tend to have a heavy due most mornings. It typically can take about 5 days to dry my hay depending on humidity, temp, wind, and sun. For example, I cut last Monday night. The hay was not dry enough to bale until Saturday. If is very hard to get 5 days with no rain. I prefer to put up dry hay, but we ended up wrapping most of our hay this year because we could not get it dry.
Questions:
1)How much time I can hope to save in the midwest? I am hoping others in this part of the country can give me an idea how much time the tedder saves typically?
2) How to use it? How do you know when it is time to ted the hay and when it is too late? I have heard to early and you throw clumps around that do not dry well and too late you shatter all the leaves off.
3) what do I look for in a tedder? How do I evaluate if it is worn out? Brands that are better than others. Brands to stay away from?, etc
Thanks in advance
Dave
I recently purchased a Vermeer 605 Super M with a moisture monitor to replace my JD 535. I am questioning the accuracy of the moisture monitor.
With my JD, I used a windrow moisture tester to determine when the hay was ready by spot checking various spots in the field. The windrow tester range was 13% to 70%. Anything below 13 woud read LO. I do not know how accurate it was, but I learned through painful trial and error that I needed to have the moisture below 17 to ensure no heating or mold. Above 17, I may start to see heating. The more above 17, the worse the damage.
Even with my 605sm, I still use the windrow tester to figure out when I can start baling. However, I have noticed the Vermeer moisture indicator is considerable higher than the windrow tester. I have compared results 3 times this year.
1) Windrow measured 13.5 (average of a number of testes). The 605 monitor read about 18. +/- 2-3%
2) Windrow measured around 20 %. I baled one bale to compare. The Vermeer measured WET. Above 29% reads wet so I do not know what the actual measurements was at but it was above 29%
3) Window measured low 13's and sometimes LO (below 13). Vermeer read 15-17 %
I notice when I first start the bale, the moisture monitor is inline with the windrow tester, but as the bale goes above 3ft in diameter, it starts to creep up and seems to settle 5-10% above the windrow tested.
I also noticed when the the chamber is empty, the monitor will routinely read 8-9%. It seems like it should read DRY when with nothing in the chamber but that is just a guess on my part. I can not say if that is true or not. I am hoping someone here can say how theirs works
I let the bale sit that I baled around 20 by the window tester and above 29 by the monitor. After 3 days, it is a little warm but clearly not above 30%. I will be putting it in the TMR shortly so I will have a better feel for the condition once we open it up.
The bales that read around 18% show absolutely no signs of heat. If anything, they seemed too dry. I just baled the ones that read 15-17% by the monitor so I can not say fo sure what they will look like once we use them but I am sure they are good. The bales were not heavy so I am sure they are dry.
Has anyone had issues like this. Do I need to replace the sensing plates or some other piece? The baler has around 9k bales so I am wondering the sensing plates wear out.
Thanks in advance
Dave
Had a neighbor that was getting rid of a 27' he had 2 rings disassembled and was giving them away. i took them home and im wondering what i can use them for, Any ideas?
I need to replace the Drive roller bearing on the right side. Do I need to remove the roller completely or can i do it with it in the machine? Just loosen tension?
I am getting near retirement and will be selling off the machinery hopefully to one of the younger partners. That being the best case, if that does not workout what is the next best way to sell the equipment? Not just moving the equipment but taking taxes into consideration. Selling one or two pieces a year over several years, traditional auction, local consignment, on-line auction or private sales?
A few weeks back I posted about a possible monitor failure on my Deere 582 round baler.
Luckily we needed every spear of hay we had in small squares for the cattle in the barn, so there wasn't any huge push to fix it.
In the meantime I'd been thinking, and remembered that right before the monitor went bonkers, I was getting repeated "E231" error codes. That's a code something about the pickup sensor.
Finally I got sick of it, jumped out, and wiggled some wires on the microswitch down by the latch and valve you use to release the cropcutter knives. I figured that was what it was talking about. The code stopped, but I only made it once around the field before the monitor went crazy, lighting up every LED and refusing to boot.
Fast forward to today, I went back under there and fiddled with the same wire. I could see that the bare wires were bent hard over against the bracket holding the microswitch. Looks like the wire might be rubbed through and shorting out.
Jumped in the cab, turned on the key, and hit the switch on the monitor. BEEEEEEP! 582C! E221! It booted up!
So I plugged everything that I'd unplugged during the troubleshooting back in and it booted clean.
Looks like it's the wires to that microswitch that are the problem.
This time of the year we have a hayable second growth of grass for hay, but it has a large amount of foxtail and purple top summer grass in the mix. I have rarely made hay form this mixture but wonder what others think about mixed foxtail hay. Does it have feed value? Does it pose a danger to livestock? I know it can cause ulcers and cuts in horse’s mouths. Good for goats? Pleases share views. In the past I have usually just mowed it off. Any easy way to get rid of it, once established?
I continue to patiently look for another round baler for the 2021 season. I’ve found a NH 550 unit with less than 500 bales rolled. It’s a 2015 model. I assume it’s a big brother to a 450 model. The price is less than $19,000.00
I’m sure there are several people with these balers that can provide input. Is this generally considered a Reliable baler or are there issues to be concerned with?
My other line of thinking is to purchase another NH 678 and refurbish as needed to have it reliable unit. I have another 678 that I’m familiar with so hence my focus on this model. And a 5’ wide baler is a must.
Caught this on Youtube this morning.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_a3Cqqk93o0
They mention there will be retro kits for older series mowers to convert to quick change knives. Finally!
Have been using locus oil red n tacky For all my equipment. Since I got a 575 baler and a 1409 discbine want to make sure they last as long as my nh 69 baler and nh 477 haybine did. Is the red n tacky good enough or should I use the extra heavy duty fro locus or someone have a better option. I have heard your not to mix greases so if I change should I clean out old grease
After a good life of service . I think my Davis weather station is done . We want to get a new one and I see Accurite and Ambeident have models with all the bells and whistles for $160 to $200. Open to any advice or thoughts
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