John Deere 458 Baler Problems

JD 458 Baler problems,  hay stacks up on front of baler and goes up to top roller.  Anyone have this problem or know how to  solve it.  Thanks

 

John Deere 458 Baler Problems

664 New Holland Baler problems

My 664 baler is having trouble starting a roll? I have built up on the starter roller with hard surface rods and the bottom drum also, the hay picks up fine but will not start rolling if the hay is dry. I usually cut one day and bale in 2 days, its usually just summer grass nothing special. The only thought I have is the rough side of my belts are worn down and maybe they aren't helping start the roll??? I've tried slowing rpm's down, fast, slower and faster gears, pretty much anything and everything???? Any thoughts?

664 New Holland Baler problems

Carted wheel rakes - sorry for this again

I know there's a thousand wheel rake threads already.  I've read the ones I can.  I'm thinking of moving away from the rollabar style.  

 

The New Holland pro cart has my attention because the old new holland rollabar worked so well and for so long, but a couple of years ago I bit the bullet and got a Kuhn trailed disc mower that cuts better and runs circles around my old 617 cutter, so Kuhn has me interested as well.  I do have a Sitrex dealer local (believe they still make new holland rakes) but they want $100 less for a 10 wheel than the new holland dealer wants for a 12wheel.  

 

That's the new holland 1225 and the kuhn 112.  There's also the kuhn 312 model that looks like they tried to cross a high capacity rake with a carted rake.  Anyone have input on the Kuhn 312 and any advantages / disadvantages of them?  There are a couple of small (5-7 acre) tracts that I sometimes cut, so I'll either need to factor that in or keep one of the old rollabars.  

 

I'm not in the market for a high capacity or a rotary, so any advice is appreciated.  Including on what to look for and how to understand what I need to be looking for.

Carted wheel rakes - sorry for this again

Sprigging Tifton 44

Have a old stand of tifton 44 Bermuda . That has played out want to redo it. What is the best way to do this ?

Sprigging Tifton 44

Plastic hay twine not cutting

I have a John deere 458 baler and I am using plastic twine because I'm having to store hay outside. My problem is the baler isn't cutting the twine. I have sharpened the blade, and also turned it over.  It is killing me to stop PTO get out of my tractor and cut the string every bale.  Please someone here give me a solution to my problem, other than going back to grass string like my dumb dealer did.

Plastic hay twine not cutting

What percentage of alfalfa?

I get the occasional bale kicker who ask this question, "If you had to guess what would you say the percentage of alfalfa to grass is in the bale"? I usually tell them I wouldn't know how to answer your question. Why don't you stop by take s look at the bale to see if it is what you want. Depending on my mood at the time I might tell them I will have to get back to you after I plot out the hay field to count the plants, do the math to come up with an average. Couple of times I gave an answer like 60/40, 30/70 with a reply back indicating that is too much or too little.

How do you handle this type of question? If you give a percentage how did you come up with the numbers?

What percentage of alfalfa?

Found a Kuhn rotary rake to play with

Currently run a little fransgard ti-4000p mini double rotary rake that can do 15 ft or so but can't double rake in second cut.

Kuhn 4120 showed up for 1500$ so jumped on it! While loading guy had 3 more calls on it.


Some tines and hoses and should be ready to go.

Found a Kuhn rotary rake to play with

5420 vermeer baler

I'm having crop buildup.. mainlyonthe left side ... having to get out and pull it out every 2 bales   baling coastal bermuda    any ideas ?

 

 

 

5420 vermeer baler

New Holland 278 knotted issue

I have a knotted issue, with my 278 baler. On the Right side knotted, ties the knot, perfectly, but the twine breaks, on the Plunger End, of the bale. I did notice, that the twine is almost as if it is torn, leaving a few strands, holding the bale, together, but breaks apart, when the bale goes through the chamber. Not sure, what is causing this to happen. Thanks in advance. Bruce.

New Holland 278 knotted issue

Twine Wrap

I have a customer, that prefers that his bales, to be wrapped, with Twine, instead of Net Wrap. I'm new to doing bales, with Twine. I'm planning on wrapping the bales, with 24 wraps, of Twine, and I'm not sure, about how far, the spacing should be for Hay, aND Rotary Wheat Straw. Any help, or Advice, will greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Bruce.

Twine Wrap

Stick your hand in here, I dare ya....

Somebody's been digging in the roadbed again! I kicked some rocks down the holes and the sounds coming back up didn't sound too friendly.

Attached Thumbnails

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Stick your hand in here, I dare ya....

Baling alfalfa in a humid climate

Alright fellas I seriously need some help on harvesting/baling alfalfa in a humid climate like the eastern half of the country. There is nearly no alfalfa grown here in the southeast and I think I'm starting to see why. With that being said I know in other parts of the eastern half of the country there is quite a bit of alfalfa grown......in my travels I have personally seen a lot of alfalfa in Pennsylvania and even more in Wisconsin......I know we have some fellas on here from these states and other similar areas that grow alfalfa. Now these areas might not be quite as hot or humid as we are here in the southeast but it is still in the humid region of the country with regular rainfall so I don't imagine the haying conditions and techniques would be that vastly different from here.

My question is what is your method of getting the hay dried out to bale and baled in a presentable package that still has green color, leaves, and won't spoil?

My method is to cut on day one, ted in the morning of day two, rake in the evening of day three with some dew moisture to save leaves, and bale in the morning or evening of day four with dew moisture to save leaves. This works pretty well if the weather cooperates but my window of baling is so small I can't get much baled. Even as humid as it is here the leaves get dry enough that they shatter and crumble if you don't handle the hay with some dew moisture but the dews get heavy enough that the hay gets too wet really fast. Seems that it is the worst of both worlds here.....too humid and it is hard to dry down but the leaves still get too dry to bale. You wouldn't think that the leaves would get too dry as high as the humidity is here but as soon as the sun burns the dew off in the morning they get crisp. How does everyone else manage this or is leaf shatter not an issue and you can bale pretty much all day?

I'm have just about had my fill of alfalfa and just about ready to quit growing it if I can't figure out a better method to handle this stuff that will allow me to have a longer and more productive baling window. I need all the help and advice I can get.

Hayden

Baling alfalfa in a humid climate

Wheel Rake Questions

I've been thinking about getting a wheel rake to replace my Vermeer basket rake. I bale only coastal Bermuda hay.

I've got a few concerns to settle before I pull the trigger.

My fields are rough in some spots due to feral hog damage. In these areas top speed is about 4.5 - 5 mph. Will a wheel rake work properly at those speeds?

Also, my fields are rolling in some areas. The basket rake does leave some hay behind int those rolling areas. Are wheel rakes better suited for raking rolling fields.

Lastly, what brand do you'll recommend? Which brands should be avoided?

Wheel Rake Questions

Wheel take questions

I've been thinking about getting a wheel take to replace my Vermeer basket rake. I bale only coastal Bermuda hay.

I've got a few concerns to settle before I pull the trigger.

My fields are rough in some spots due to feral hog damage. In these areas top speed is about 4.5 - 5 mph. Will a wheel rake work properly at those speeds?

Also, my fields are rolling in some areas. The basket rake does leave some hay behind int those rolling areas. Are wheel rakes better suited for raking rolling fields.

Lastly, what brand do you'll recommend? Which brands should be avoided?

Wheel take questions

land for lease palmdale, ca

have 10 acres of land to lease anyone interested in Palmdale, Ca   and there are currently other farmers in the area growing Alfalfa.    thanks   

land for lease palmdale, ca

planting grass for haying

im thinking of killing my alfafa and planting a grass for haying what kind of grass would be good to plant i leave in north east north dakota

planting grass for haying

Western States And International Trade.

From Dairyherd.com .

 

Regards, Mike

 

http://ift.tt/2uMw27Q

Western States And International Trade.

Web Doors for X900

Hello to all, I just bought a new RTV-X900 and I am as excited as a kid at Christmas! The dealer will be delivering it Tuesday, and I am new to retirement and can hardly wait to play with my new toy.

I looked at every brand out there and the only thing that impressed about them is that (Polaris, Honda, Deere, Kawasaki) is that they had a web door option. I have been on line and look at the soft side door kits and this is not what I want. The web doors would work for me, I just want something to help keep arms in the cab.

Does anyone out there know who could supply such doors?

Web Doors for X900

Vermeer 504 super i baler bogging

I have a vermeer 504 super I. First cutting this year it baled perfect. I found a bad bearing on the starting roller and replaced it. When I started baling again it runs smooth and quiet. When bale gets between 4 and 5 feet the baler pulls the tractor down and starts squeling. I can't figure out where the squealing is coming from and i cant find anything that seems wrong. Any ideals?

Vermeer 504 super i baler bogging

Farmhand accumulator

Looking at a farmhand 8 bale accumulator.I already have a farmhand 8 bale grapple.Anyway the accumulator is in good condition,always maintained etc.It is pulled behind tractor,not the baler.(Has a hitch and pto).Just wondering if anybody has experience with this style of accumulator,any insight would be appreciated.Can get it for $2500.
Thank's Paul

Farmhand accumulator

644 / 650 baler follower roll compatibility

I managed to destroy the follower roll in my 644ss two nights ago. Took out the scraper assembly along with it. I already needed sledge gears so I'm looking to do it all at once and with used parts. I just don't use this baler enough to want to dump a lot of money into it. So I'm looking at used parts and the salvage yard ten minutes away happens to have a 650. Every part number in the sledge appears to cross over except the follower roll. Any ideas what the difference is and whether it would still be a drop in replacement even if not the same as my 644? My baler has the cleated roll with expeller and the 650 is smooth but I'm not too worried about that. I've made about 50 silage bales in the 5000 total I've put through the baler.

644 / 650 baler follower roll compatibility

What are these bugs in this alfalfa

Cutting some second cutting alfalfa and there are millions of these bugs on my hay cutter.  trim.C4923453-D390-430F-BAFF-0CCC618049D9.MOV   10.84MB   9 downloads

What are these bugs in this alfalfa

Seeding Alfalfa

I have a 155 ac field that's been in alfalfa/grass for 13 yrs. Of course alfalfa is dying out more and more each yr. Not able to spray and break up field this fall. So thinking of spraying the last of the alfalfa out and overseeding with grasses in the spring.
Keeping in mind of the alfalfa toxicity, I should be able to overseed alfalfa the following year to get my mixture back.
My soil is very sandy, so alfalfa establishes very easy under pivot irrigation.
Sounds crazy right? Just thinking outside the norm in my area.
What do you think?

Seeding Alfalfa

7' land pride finish mower value?

Im a contractor (build portable sheds, do some barn restores, metal roofs and post frame construction), and i barter quite a bit. I have a guy wanting to trade a land pride 7' finish mower and i dont know what to value it at. Its clean and operates properly, he doesn't know how old it is, and says it had a new gear box a few years ago. Its not something id use so id put it right up for sale. What could i expect to get for it? I researched elsewhere online but found a VERY wide range (like $400-$2000).

7' land pride finish mower value?

Question about New Idea 5209 discbine

I just bought a used New Idea 5209.  It's the older style, not exactly sure of the age.   A neighbour used it to cut some pretty heavy messy stuff last night and it ran like a champ.  I bought a new set of blades for it.  Does anyone know the torque specs for the blade bolts?  The previous owner apparently changed all the fluids in the cutter bar at the start of the season and then traded it in. All the joints are tight and well greased.  Is there any other routine maintenance that I should be doing to it?  Can anyone point me to where I can find an owners/operators manual for this unit?

 

Thanks

Dave

Question about New Idea 5209 discbine

JD1219 not turning

Have a new-to-me JD1219 haybine. Not sure what's going on: it will freely turn but only about 1/16th of a turn on the main clutch, then stops. It's as if there is a lock or mechanical safety preventing it from continuing. Not sure if it's hanging up on the sickle, but I don't think so. Everything else "appears" to be fine. Any suggestions welcome....I am hoping this is an "Aha! moment" problem, not a broken machine.

JD1219 not turning

5 Things To Know About The Fescue Endophyte.

Progressive Forage Grower......interesting.

 

Regards, Mike

 

http://ift.tt/2vPC9Is

5 Things To Know About The Fescue Endophyte.

Japan Considers Tariffs On Frozen Beef.

Maybe they need a friendly reminder about their North Korean neighbors.

 

Regards, Mike

 

http://ift.tt/2tP051p

Japan Considers Tariffs On Frozen Beef.

Nh 660 baler auto wrap not tying

Just bought this nh 660 auto wrap and it's not tripping the tying mechanism. It didn't come with a manual any help would be great thanks

Nh 660 baler auto wrap not tying

NH 570 Banana Shaped Bales - need help

Hello Fellow Hay Folks,

 

New to the forum and enjoy seeing all these good discussions and group support.

 

Hoping for some help on a problem I have with my NH 570 baler that I picked up this spring.

 

Bales come out of the chamber with more hay on one side than the other causing banana shaped bales.  I adjusted the packer forks as illustrated in the manual to feed hay into the far side of the chamber, added two sets of hay wedges, increased bale pressure, doubled up my windrow size, adjusted feeds and speeds, etc.

 

While these changes have resulted in some improvements, I still have bales that are a little shorter on one side than the other that causes some of the bales to break on occasion when they take a hit.  I have a thrower and at least one bale will explode per wagon while I am filling it and some are ready to come apart if not handled carefully while unloading.

 

Like the performance of this newer baler as it gobbles up the hay but am very disappointed in my bales.  My old MF124 Baler used for the past 30 years made a great tight bale.

 

Is there hope for this baler?????  Is it possible for this baler make a nice shaped bale consistently?

 

Need some advice

 

 

NH 570 Banana Shaped Bales - need help

More questions

I know I want the 1120 and had settled on the Western V plow. Dealer says putting a non Kubota plow on the 1120 voids the warranty. I don't believe that's true, but I wanted to ask you guys. Also, does the KTAC insurance cover the Kubota plow if you bought that one? Since the premium is based on the total price I would think so, but I'm not sure.


Cheers!

More questions

Agco To Acquire Precision Planting.

Hmmm....Agco will attempt what John Deere was prohibited from doing. Quite a coup for Agco if it becomes reality.

 

Regards, Mike

 

http://ift.tt/2vKifOS

Agco To Acquire Precision Planting.

Case 8330 / Hesston 1120 haybine parts machine around Ohio?

Bought a new to me Case IH 8330 haybine this spring... ran 12 acres thru it with not one problem and sprocket and hub holding the steel roller shaft stripped / fell apart / keyway failed... however you want to say it.  It was still working as the rubber roller was actually driving the steel roller indicating to me nothing was wrong.  I just happened to catch it by chance when greasing haybine.   Dealer tore into it yesterday and says that this shaft was stripped and welded on and filled in earlier and it's a real mess...

 

Buyer beware I guess. :-(

 

 

They said they really don't want to mess with it as that steel roller is discontinued through Case IH and even if they could find a used roller or somehow have the shaft rebuilt, he didn't even want to think about what the cost in labor once finished... way more than I paid for it. 

 

Anyone know of a parts machine in the Ohio area? 

 

Thanks in advance guys.  Jeff in NW Ohio

Case 8330 / Hesston 1120 haybine parts machine around Ohio?

Pallets, custom made to move hay on.

Not sure if best place to post this but:

 

Have never moved a bale of hay with a machine but allowing my mind to wander here: if you stack hay on pallets to keep them dry seems to me this might be reasonable.

 

Why not make custom size pallets that would be suitable to handle the hay as you stack it. (I am thinking the 10 small square bale used by some grapples) You could place the pallet on trailer for loading with grapple and then at the barn use forks to move the stack into place. Setting on the floor or if need be stacked on top of another stack to get the height you want. Would cut down on the trips with grapple between the trailer and the barn. If loading for customer you could use grapple to save the pallet or if you will be making the delivery then load pallet already stacked.  

Pallets, custom made to move hay on.

678 nh won't wrap automatically

my 678 new Holland baler won't automatically wrap twine when the indicator reaches the stop mark on the face of baler. I can't determine what exactly trips the wrap starting process. help?   pictures or drawings anything?

678 nh won't wrap automatically

Seeding Forage Crop After Soybeans

I need something that I can seed after soybeans here in Western Kentucky.  We have some ground that has been in row crop for the past several years, but we are going to sow it down to add to our forage operation for our cattle.  I really want to seed Orchardgrass and either Alfalfa or Clover, but I'm afraid that it will be too late to seed this combination after the soybeans are harvested this fall.  I need ideas on what I could possibly seed to get me through until next spring.

 

I have thought about ryegrass, or triticale, if there is something else I need to be considering please let me know.

 

Thanks

 

Seeding Forage Crop After Soybeans

How much to bail a 4x5 roll of hay??

For me it goes like this.
Tripple19 415. A tone 300 pounds to the acre equals 6.6 acres and then to spray for weeds 10. A acre then land rent at 3. A bail so if I do good and get five rolles to the acre I think by the time You figure equipment and time around 24. Bucks a roll by the time I get it in the barn.

How much to bail a 4x5 roll of hay??

2015 X1100 front suspension

Recently bought with 900 miles on it. Control arms have have a lot of movement front to rear. I have read several posts on this subject but nothing recent. Has there been anything from kubota? What's the best fix? Thanks!

2015 X1100 front suspension

Clicking noise in the front

I have a RTV 900 and have noticed when I go in reverse there is a clicking noise from the front. I am unable to determine if it's on the right or left side. Last week I changed the CV boots on front thinking it would fix the problem. It did not. The bearings appeared to be fine.

Clicking noise in the front

What to spray on Orchardgrass?

I'm needing to control some broadleaf weeds in an OG field. Second cutting was made 12 days ago and I figured I would give it another week to recover before spraying since we've had hot weather. It had fertilizer applied last week.


Now for the problem, my neighbor has soybeans within 100 yards of the OG so I don't wanna spray any 24d or dicambia. I also would like to spray something that won't stunt the grass too badly in hot and possibly dry conditions.

What do you guys suggest?

What to spray on Orchardgrass?

Rained on alfalfa.....what's it worth?

Had some alfalfa get rained on in the windrow two days in a row. One field was black, slimey, and moldy so I know it's junk but the other field didn't get enough rain to soak the windrow all the way through and it was salvageable. I know it's not horse hay but im thinking it might be good cow hay. The exterior of the windrow got kind of a funky smell and is completely bleached out but it did not mold or must. I kicked the windrows out with the Tedder yesterday and got it raked back up and baled this morning. It doesn't have a lot of color but doesn't smell too bad now that it is dried back out and is not molded. I baled it in 4x5 net wrapped rolls. Any idea on how to price this hay and what it would be worth? There are no other round bales of alfalfa sold around here so I have nothing to price it against. If it had not got rained on it would have been square baled and sold for $300 a ton.

Rained on alfalfa.....what's it worth?

JD 435 Jamming at the starter roll.

OK so here is the issue. I honestly think I've got figured out myself but want some confirmation. I bought my first round baler 3 years ago when my brother graduated Auburn and we decide it was now or never. So a new JD tractor and '94 model baler got delivered to the house ( I'd been small time square baling all through high school for cash). Got all the kinks worked out of it the first year while we learned and I couldn't be more pleased with the baler. Makes a good tight twine wrapped bale. We put a new set of belts on it this year and we have worked it harder this year than ever, 700 rolls on the first cutting.

 

 

I was baling a custom job last Friday and it jammed above the starter roll twice. It would wedge the hay between the belts and the roll and stall the tractor. MY opinion is the windrows were to big. My grandfather volunteered to rake for me and in really heavy hay he kept taking a full bite and made these huge windrows. Bless his heart, he retired from 35 years of over the road truck driving. He can drive anything but listening to the baby of the family about how to rake hay is not going to happen with this 85 year old. Windrows were so large that when starting a bale hay would get caught between the ground and the tongue of the baler, never making it to the pick up. Heavy hay is good for business but huge windrows can be a pain to bale. 

 

I think the baler does a jam up job to be as old as I am but I need to make sure their isn't a mechanical issue. I need to get back in the field as soon as the rain moves out again and the last thing I need is to be in a customers field with a broke down baler and rain on the way.

 

Sorry about being long winded. Any information will be great. 

 

Thanks

 

Tyler

JD 435 Jamming at the starter roll.

NH 268 drive chain ?

How many link are supposed to be in the drive chain for the knotters? I can't find it in my manual. Thanks in advance.

NH 268 drive chain ?

Top dressing orchard grass with liquid N

I usually topdress after first and second cutting. Been having trouble with stripping of N so thought I would try liquid N. I use 60#N. anyone else using liquid N on grass hay? Am I nuts?

Top dressing orchard grass with liquid N

2012 RTV 1100 for $2000

So ...I wrote and asked what the real price is as that had to be a typeo. The lady replies and says it's her daughters and gave me her email address.

here is what follows:

11:29 AM (6 hours ago)
Nice looking RTV. Please let me know how long you have had it and how much you are selling it for.

Patricia Ware
Attachments12:41 PM (5 hours ago)

to me
Hello, thank you for your interest in my 2012 Kubota RTV 1100 It has 778 hours. Tires is new.
It is equipped with the factory cab, Hydraulic tilt bed, A/C that blows ice cold, a heater that will run you out of the cab on the coldest day, Warn winch, high rise intake (keeps filter cleaner longer), two outside mirrors, tinted windows, strobe light, front L.E.D. lights, rear work light, rear window guard, full turn signal and hazard light kit, two sets of tires and wheels (one for hard surfaces and one for all terrain), Rhino lined bed and has just been serviced by local Kubota dealer. The all terrain tires are brand new with zero miles on them.
My asking price is $2,000. Probably it deserves more, but I just finished the divorce, and I own the rtv. I don't ask to much for it since I need to sell it fast....I have some financial problems. I'm trying to close this deal through eBay due my work. The deal includes free delivery since I have a voucher and can ship anywhere in US.
If you're interested to purchase just email me your full name, shipping address and phone#, so I can notify eBay that you are selected as my buyer and they will contact you to explain the entire procedure.
Bellow I attached some pics so you can see how clean is it.

Thank you


---my reply:


Greg Perr <dothq2@gmail.com>
6:13 PM (12 minutes ago)

to Patricia
I will take it. I can pick it up tomorrow. I am just a few hours from Cincinnati. You do know it is worth a good bit more book value.

-----

So, any bets on whether or not I get an email back. I'm guessing it's a scammer and they do not want someone to pick it up, so they'll say it's sold or not reply at all. but if it's no the up and up I might get a RTV 1100 for a steal. I would honestly give her more. but .....this is one of those that fall in the "to good to be true" category

2012 RTV 1100 for $2000

Truax Flex II No-Till Drill

After years of B&M at my local FSA office, it seems that they have bought our county a Truax no-till drill. It looks like the local co op may manage the use of it. I saw it today at the co op and I was impressed. The coulters looked heavy and well built....it has 3 seed boxes....and a friend at the co op sent the operators manual home with me today for me to study. People from Truax are coming to teach them how to operate it....I might just show up myself that day.

 

The only negative that I have seen about the drill so far is that the wheels are on the sides of the drill instead of behind. Seems this drill is manufactured up in New Hope, Minnesota. I guess I won't be looking as hard to find a drill for a year or two until some of the local numb skulls tear this one all to crap. But it does look tough and well built.....hopefully it will take them a little longer to sabotage it.

 

Regards, Mike

Truax Flex II No-Till Drill

Recommendations for hay barn

New to hay with shelter needed for 2018, yep counting the bales before they are cut. Would appreciate your recommendations, suggestions and cautions. Have some questions as I am planning. May need to lead with I am about 20 miles inland from the Atlantic Ocean and we do get hurricanes. There are NO buildings nor any real trees to help block wind. Also in 2015 we got what was the greatest flood we have ever had with about 20 inches of rain I think within 24 hours. But 5 of so inches does happen with in about as many hours maybe every 5 years, not a hurricane. 

 

Why does some use Styrofoam under concrete? Is it a regional due to freezing?

(Here use plastic under concrete to control sweating at least with houses and would think any enclosed concrete.)

If concrete is used how thick does it need to be?

If concrete is used and moisture material is below it can you safely store hay directly on the concrete?

How does crushed rock compared to concrete for flooring?

Is pole barn the preferred building? 

Any thoughts on how a pole barn compares to full steel structure?

Is fully enclosed with couple of garage doors (maybe more depending on size of building) or with east side open?Are doors on the side or the end best or does that totally depend on the building itself such as size.

Realize the doors, windows all affect this but is lighting recommended?

Any recommendation for electrical needs in hay barn?

Height and width of doors for tractors and also also for the barn itself. Right now plan to use full size JD with grapple to stack and unload stack the hay. 

 

Recommendation for location: Know you need it easy accessible for trucks, trailers and possible 18 wheeler depending on your market. Also to the hay field(s).

The area I would prefer to use is beside road through our property (dead end gravel type with some traffic, one resident and small sod farm.) I rather have that side closed due to some dust off the road and have doors or any opening on the other side or the ends. The building will run almost due North - South. East side would be the side to be left open if a side is. Location is basically visible from our house but not totally. But is only about 240 yards away.

The area is not a high area, will need to build it up a few inches, suggestion on how high it needs to be above natural grade?  I think 6 to 12 inches would be sufficient, but is that before or with rock or concrete floor?

 

Being optimistic, have been told by friend who is my mentor to expect 75 bales (small square) per acre for 4 cuttings per year with some increase as coastal bermuda fully develops. At present have 15 acres sprigged this year and if all goes well with up to 40 acres total, 35 might be most reasonable. I would like to be able to build for the 15 acres next year with some extra room but do not want to jump on barn for the full 40 acres next year unless would be difficult to either add to the building or to build another one. One advantage to second barn is the fire danger. But that would increase the building cost I think and also do not have another location I would like to use for farm barn. Have a great location other than our children have said they want to build there. Think only reason they have not fully committed to it is possible road may take that full farm. Has been hanging over planning with the property for about 12 years. Sure hope it ends up being routed away, if built at all. A real pain for all in the proposed route. The more I see of the politics in such the less I respect the process. It is painful obvious to see the large property owners land is being routed around while many of the smaller family farms are being ruined. Farms that have been in the family over 100 years. But that is another post. 

 

If I have missed anything please share. I do not have plans to run water to it. That would be probably a $1000 or so cost to. It would be most likely public water and could have shallow well put in but unless a fire which I pray would never be an issue know of no reason to need water that. Electrical would not be major issue as power lines run right by the sight, might add on our property to those behind us.  thanks Kenneth

 

 

Recommendations for hay barn

Moisture Tester In Large Square Balers

Whats everyone using?  I know Gezeeka is the best but with the rotten alfalfa market I am not going to spend that kind of money.  Primarily want something that will tell me when the dew is getting too heavy.  I have been around an Agritronics BTH-2 on a small square baler that seems to work well but they don't recommend them for big balers. 

Moisture Tester In Large Square Balers

Orchard grass stand loss

In the past I have never had much luck growing orchard grass. Usually what would happen is in the summer of the first year of a fall planted stand clumps would start dying out after first cutting and would end up with a thin stand. By the second summer it would be thin enough that other weedy grasses would take over and the stand wouldn't be worth keeping. I always blamed this on a few week period of drought that is not unusual for us to have sometime during the course of summer here. I was of the opinion the varieties I was using just couldn't stand a stretch of dry weather accompanied by high temps. This is one of the reasons I went away from growing orchard the past few years.

Last fall I decided to try orchard grass again because I had a particular customer that wanted orchard. I decided on planting the variety Paiute as it is supposed to be be one of the most drought tolerant varieties of orchard and is even promoted to being used in dry land conditions in the western states. I ended up with the best stand of orchard I have ever had and got a nice first cutting back in May. We have had plenty of moisture and it grew back really well and I cut second cut two weeks ago.

I went this evening to see how the field was growing back. My heart sank when I walked into the field.....lots of dead clumps over the whole field. It looked just as if these clumps died from lack of water as I thought happened to my orchard in the past but that can't be the case because this year there hasn't been a shortage of moisture. Now I'm starting to wonder if in the past the orchard didn't actually die from drought and there is another cause. I leave a 4" minimum stubble so it's not from cutting too short. Fertility is in good shape with no shortage of potash. Anyone have any ideas what might be causing it to die? This is extremely frustrating. Please help!

Hayden

Orchard grass stand loss

Is there a trick to getting the axle spindle out? All attempts have failed .

I recently bought a 990 IH haybine that appeared to be in very good condition.  Unfortunately, the first time I used it, on the 3rd time around the field, the axle spindle simply broke, separating the wheel from the machine.  The spindle broke in the middle of the hub - without damaging anything, including the bearings.  However, it has defied ALL efforts to remove it, and now the damage is mounting up. Extreme heat has been applied and driving force from a 9# sledge hammer has been tried.  Apparently a skid loader has some kind of hydraulic hammer device and that has been tried. It has moved about 3" with another 6" to go.   When it broke down in the field, I was lucky because I was going across an end row and so it ended up out of the way.  After I got the field baled, I picked up the crippled side and set it down on a cement block.  Now it is sideways, askew, and off the block.  There is a large scorched grass area and I have a most unhappy welder guy wishing he had walked away from this job.  He is 6 hours into it, and thinks he will need to take it to the shop and totally cut the axle (which looks like a pipe to me) in order to fix it.   If you've experience with this, or even have an idea, or know of a trick, or just want to reply with some much needed sympathyplease post.  Thanks in advance.  PS - this repair hinges on removal of current spindle, finding a replacement, and installing it.  It can't be this hard... can it?

Is there a trick to getting the axle spindle out? All attempts have failed .

Converting to C.V PTO Shaft

I have a Rhino batwing that uses just a traditional PTO drive shaft. I do quite a bit on tight quarters mowing and the PTO really knocks and carrys on. Can I just buy a C.V pto end to go on the shaft? Anyone ever do it? My gut says I could do it but the geometry may not be 100% equal angle and I may still get a little noise but it should be a good bit better.

Am I correct?

Converting to C.V PTO Shaft

Mixing ammonium sulfate

I started out the year using an AMS substitute called rRequest and a while back after reading a study on them I saw that spray grade granular ammonium sulfate by far gets the best kill with Roundup. I know it's recommended you put the AMS in first at 17 and a half pounds per hundred gallons of water and I am looking for some advice. How do you get the AMS mixed up in order to put it in the sprayer. I have been putting 10 lb in a 5 gallon bucket of water stirring it up and pouring it in the inductor on the sprayer and repeating that process until I get the recommended amount in for that load and then I had to take the heck out of it before adding any other ingredients. Most times it goes good but some days I have a heck of a Time to get it mixed in the bucket and even though I have a big Line Filter and filters on each boom line I'll end up getting a granular in a nozzle or 2. Any tips

Mixing ammonium sulfate

Stinking wheels

I am so feed up, my 3pt MH25 hay rake doesn't have the factory wheels, the previous owner changed them out for some cheap things meant for a wheelbarrow.. They lasted about 5ac for me.. I went to TS and got the largest set that would fit, said they would handle 800lbs each, 3/4 axle, ball bearings, etc.... I knew they weren't what they should be but hoped for the best as that's all I could find.... well one blew out within 30 minutes today...  I'm sick of this,

 

I'm needing suggestions on where I can find the correct wheel for this rake, anyone have a parts rake behind the barn ??  I have looked all over the web and found lots of these rakes but so far no wheels...

 

If anyone has replaced the wheels and had good luck let me know what you used, this is getting old buying something that doesn't work....

 

Thanks

Chris

Stinking wheels

Deere Purchases Italian Sprayer Manufacturer.

Progressive Forage Grower.

 

Regards, Mike

 

http://ift.tt/2uTTSRH

Deere Purchases Italian Sprayer Manufacturer.

Vermeer 604 L Becomes Hard to turn

OK First post, hope I do this right.

I have a Vermeer 604 L and as bale forms it chokes 100 hp tractor down when reaches about 5 ft + bale.  

It has new teeth and new belts last year rolled about 600 bales total last 2 years since installing.  I have owned baler for 5 years or so and it has been

like this from beginning. I have checked the belts and they are routed according to manual.  I have checked the chain drive and it is routed according to

the diagram on the side of the baler.  The beginning density or air bags are set line between 2 & 3 or blue green which is almost

minimum to start a bale.  By the time hydraulic bale density reaches 4 or pretty much straight and 5 ft  it will  choke tractor down.  I baled last year with 85 hp tractor

and it did it.  This year I baled with 100 hp tractor and it did it. When I put new belts on last year checked all roller bearings out all ok. .  Really do 

not know what else could be except a bearing in a chain driven roller but how could a bad bearing last through this long and not

make noise or show up when running at idle or before a bale reached 5 ft stage. I have been stopping when tractor starts choking  down and have pretty much ended with 5 ft bales.

I would like to make maximum size 6 ft bale as I transport 75% of my hay to home farm and would like to minimize trips.

Any suggestions comments appreciated

 

Vermeer 604 L Becomes Hard to turn

Cover crops and residual herbicides

So have noticed something this summer while spraying beans, wit the wet spring we had we fixed a lot of tile and added more in some spots. Where we added it got disced level afterwards, fixed spots just got graded off level, either way had bare dirt. 

When spraying burndown for beans we use Resist (generic Canopy) and 2-4d, when spraying RU now of cleanup have noticed the spots that were bare when spraying burndown are as clean as a whistle while where we had cover crop its like we never sprayed a residual. Can the cover crop tie the residual up so it never makes it to the ground? This is really apparent in the last few fields we sprayed burndown on that had a two foot tall cover crop. If so what is the workaround? The clean spots are also void of any mares tail as well. 

Cover crops and residual herbicides

Kuhns 1036F Stacking Question

The 10 bale Kuhns 1036F accumulator has a tie row of two bales on one end of the group of bales.  I see videos of folks grabbing the group of bales, loading them on a wagon - alternating from one side to another to put the tie row opposite as one stacks, not unlike we do hand stacking a wagon behind a baler.

 

Question is - once you get to the barn, how do you stack using the tie row of bales to your stacking advantage?  Can you pick up with the grapple in any direction to the group of bales, can you rotate the grapple in the air 90 or 180 degrees (I think Steffens has that option) or do you have to live with the tie row always being on the outside - towards the front of the tractor, as you pile them up against a barn wall?

 

Thanks!

Bill

Kuhns 1036F Stacking Question

72 thrower control-question for Mike10

I have a 72 thrower on a NH570.  Thing keeps getting stuck at a speed and won't go slower, only faster.  Open it all the way up and it helped for a while but yesterday that too was slow to respond.  Is there something to check or have I worn the joy switch out.  I have another control that I purchased for a second tractor but never used.  What I am really wondering is it in the control end or the receiving end?  thanks

72 thrower control-question for Mike10

Southern Rust And Common Rust.

AGPRO.

 

Regards, Mike

 

http://ift.tt/2uGLKTP

Southern Rust And Common Rust.

More Foreign Investment.

Kansas....from Drovers.

 

Regards, Mike

 

http://ift.tt/2uO0126

 

 

More Foreign Investment.

Volume Discounts

Just interested in what others do when your customers asks for a discount if they buy more than 1 round bale. Seems like many of my customers who buy 5 bales or more think they should get a discount. I tell them my hay is already priced fairly and my production cost per bale doesn't change whether you buy 1 or 10 bales. What do you guys do with volume discounts?

Volume Discounts

Lost a chain on a 556.

I was cleaning up the baler after I got done today, after washing off hay guard I went to oil chains. Noticed the long one that goes to the top roller was gone. Not a scratch or any sign of a chain flopping around. Took a good 40 min to find it out in the field. It looks good. At first I thought maybe I lost the master link, but it's still on it. Put it back on to see how much is there and only lost a link. So, do I buy a link? Or do I get new chain and sprockets? First time losing a chain. I was lucky I guess, I see Deere balers all the time with the sheet metal bulged out in front of the main drive. I will say this year I switched to Deere chain lube instead of gear oil to cut down on mess. I'm sure there no correlation. Looking back now, it did pull a little harder hitting big windrows, I re-raked some hay and it balled up in a couple of spots. I slowed down kinda. But I could tell I hit them. Might have put stress on chain. But it baled with no issue missing it.

Lost a chain on a 556.

Heavy Duty Front Springs for x1100c

Just wanted to pass some information on to anyone who may be in need.

I have a 2013 x1100c. In 2016 I had a western Impact v plow installed. western says H/D springs are not required but recommended. After the plow season was over I still felt I didn't need the springs but heavier duty is better right? So off to the Kubota dealer I went. I got a part# of V5218 for just the springs and I ordered two. After about three weeks I called the dealer to ck on the status of the order and was given the standard dealership quick answer they are back ordered but we'll ck to see how long. After about four days I get a call from parts saying that the H/D springs I ordered are not made for my x1100c. So anyone needing H/D front springs may want to more into this. I know boss plow say they are required.

Attached Images

20160910_124133.jpg (62.1 KB)

Heavy Duty Front Springs for x1100c

Building in a box

Saw this setup for the Consignment sale yesterday at the hay auction. Anyone on here that uses buildings like that I'm thinking about checking into having a building like that built for some extra storage and I am wondering what to do and what not to do when looking at buildings like that and how much they should cost

Building in a box

New Holland 6730

I just posted a question about my New Holland 6730 and forgot to add that when I went to remove the PTO shaft from the mower it would not come off. Called the dealer and he said that this happens and that it has to be forced off. It took chaining the mower to a post and then to my truck and then backing up until the shaft popped off. They are saying the shaft on the mower may be twisted a bit. So I am guessing that the mower shaft must have twisted a bit when the gear box froze. Has anyone else had this problem?

thanks again

rick

New Holland 6730

new holland 6730

I bought a 2015 brand new New Holland 6730 in 2016 I mowed twenty-five ac last year with no problem. This year I mowed about ten ac. and the gear box froze. I took it back to the dealer here in Ky and they found that the gear box was frozen due to no oil in it. They rebuilt it and I was told it was under warranty. I went to mow again and I got about an ac mowed before I had another problem. I took it in again and this time I was told there was a broken shaft which is suppose to break under stress. Two of my blades were bent and they were hitting the bar which they said caused the bar shaft to shear. I was then called into the office and was told that the unit was not under warranty when the first problem happened. I was also told that i had bought the unit in 2015 which was wrong I thought, but being 73 I thought I could be wrong but I was not. So now I am being told I have to pay three grand for the first fix and that it was my fault that the blades bent and were hitting the bar. I am willing to pay for the bar shaft fix. But why has New Holland denied  the first claim. i was also told by the owner of the dealership that when cutting grass that the mower should be several inches above the grass. Now this unit has skid plates which I thought were meant to ride along the ground. I am new at this and I could be doing things wrong but a leaking gear box is not my fault. Can anyone give me any insight as too what I am doing wrong.

thanks

rick

new holland 6730

BSE

 A case of Mad Cow has been found our state. It is described as an atypical case, not the typical type found in the UK back in the late '80's. The cows was an 11 year old beef cow. The news is being down played locally and reports are reassuring that the cow was never a threat to entering the food chain.

The discovery is being down played around these parts. Glad there is not mass hysteria. Live beef prices are low enough as it is.

BSE

Help deciding!

Currently have an RTV500 with the Kubota/Curtis plow. Seriously considering upgrading to an 1120. I definitely want to go go hydraulic on the plow. My 500 works great, but the electric up and down is slow and it's a manual angle.
Considering the western v-plow or the Kubota one. The western is considerably cheaper, but I'd like opinions. Nearest Boss dealer is way far away or I'd consider that. Western dealer recommended dual batteries. Necessary? Any and all suggestions welcome!

Help deciding!

New to Haying - Need Advice

I recently purchased some property and has about 52 acres of open hay field.  I put fertilizer and potash on the 52 acres after my first cut.  The timing couldn't have been better, since it rained the next day.  I currently have coastal bermuda and it looks beautiful right now.  I don't think we are going to get anymore rain and I'm afraid the heat may hurt the grass.  How long can coastal handle 100 degree weather before I start to have problems?  I have a guy that is going to cut and bale the hay sometime late next week.  Any recommendations or advice?

New to Haying - Need Advice

looking for a New to me haybine or discbine

We currently are running a Hesston 1090 which is doing good other then the main lift shaft that bent today (gonna straighten it hopefully tomorrow) and blown lift cylinder. we are considering getting a discbine but funds arent great at the moment. What would you all suggest to look for and a good a price for a 9' cut. It will be pulled by and IH 686. 

Thanks

looking for a New to me haybine or discbine

orchard/timothy mix

Planning to plant my first hay field this fall.  The plan had been to plant orchardgrass, but I'm considering seeding in some timothy with the orchard.  There doesn't seem to be much timothy hay in my area, and the horsey people perk up any time timothy is mentioned.  How would seeding say 20 lb/acre orchard and 5 lb/acre timothy effect my overall yield for the year?   From what I understand, in my area Timothy is typically a one cut and done affair, as it goes dormant early in the summer.  I'm assuming that subsequent cuttings would contain pretty much just orchard in such a stand.  Would a pure orchard stand be easier to maintain and have better longevity?  Any words of wisdom will be appreciated.

orchard/timothy mix

Wild Parsnip

Iowa......from Successful Farming.

 

Regards, Mike

 

http://ift.tt/2tpi8La

Wild Parsnip

IH #5 Rake

I am looking for parts for my IH McCormick No. 5 Side Delivery Rake in particular the essentric crank and inner ring, the ring and bearings.  I believe the original part number is 455176 and 455481, can anyone help me locate these parts, thank you.

IH #5 Rake

Timothy variety recommendations??

Decided to try a 35 acre field of Timothy. Just wondering if anyone, especially anyone in the inter mountain west, has a variety that they have done really well with.
Thanks

Timothy variety recommendations??

Fertilizer Application??

I am renovating a hayfield in East TN and was wondering if applying fertilizer during the summer months prior to planting this fall is OK?  Last month I added 3Tonnes/acre of lime required by the soil sample?  Planning to plant Fescue and maybe orchard grass this fall and broadcasting white clover in the spring.

 

Thanks for taking the time to answers rookie questions.

 

Fertilizer Application??

"Is morning or afternoon cutting best?" Article

Hay & Forage Grower article by by Mike Rankin
Is morning or afternoon cutting best?
http://ift.tt/2u4VOnr

"Is morning or afternoon cutting best?" Article

Mandatory Check-off Debate.

From Growing TN.

 

Regards, Mike

 

http://ift.tt/2u4qNQq

Mandatory Check-off Debate.

BR7050 pros and cons

Hello,

 

I think I've talked myself in to the BR7050

It doesn't have netwrap, thanks.

 

Does anyone own this baler?

 

Does anyone have anything good to say about it?

 

Or bad?

 

Looking for opinions from current, actual, owners and users.

 

Thanks.

BR7050 pros and cons

Silage bale rates

Central Kentucky.... what are people charging to mow rake bale 4x5 silage bales??

Silage bale rates

Drawbar Setup with a 488

Anybody swing their drawbar to the right to gain more side clearance with a NH 488? How bad will that pinch the PTO yolks on right turns?

Drawbar Setup with a 488

Backhoe help

We are having an issue with our backhoe. It's a subframe attached to kioti tractor. We were digging some the other day and now the arm is stuck up. When you push the lever the hoses move but the arm and cylinder don't. Any ideas on what to look for? Thankd

Backhoe help

Lets talk S##t!

I just got off the phone with my neighbor who dairys. He is looking for a place to go with liquid manure. It just so happens I cut two hay fields on Sunday and am planning baling tomorrow or Wed. These are older hay fields that are mostly orchard grass and I am on the 2nd cutting. Has anyone spread liquid manure over recently cut grass and come back in a month for another cutting? Or is this bad idea?

Lets talk S##t!

NH315 tire sizes?

The NH315 baler we just got delivered is a little tired, and I am trying to wake it up and get it ready for baling.

 

One of the tires (LH) popped on the way to us (it was towed on the road) and was replaced with a car tire to make the final few miles.

The other one is rather dry-rotted also and I would like to replace both. Not sure if either size was original.

 

Thing is, I have no idea what sizes this should take. I prefer going with floatation tires, and from my limited research I came up with this:

 

Tire, Flotation, L.H., 9.5L-14, 8 Ply

Tire, Flotation, R.H., 25 x 7.50-15, 6 Ply

 

But I am not sure that is actually correct.

 

Alternatively, I could leave the car tire as is, and simply replace the RH rotted one: but I reckon I might have difficulties getting the thing level, no?

 

 

 

Any guidance appreciated.

NH315 tire sizes?

Vermeer 605K baler

I have a vermeer 605K baler with an vermeer equal-fill/ autotie monitor.

The the open gate symbol keeps popping up, hit the lever and soon it pops up again, but the gate is shut. how do i fix that?

Vermeer 605K baler

Hesston Hydraulic Tension Fluid Reservoir Leaking

For some reason my fluid reservoir for the hydraulic tension leaked at some point while baling wheat straw.  I'm pretty sure it hasn't leaked with any of the hay I've put through it this year.  Anyway, what would cause that?  It doesn't seem like it is still leaking, I just haven't cleaned it up yet.

 

Hesston Hydraulic Tension Fluid Reservoir Leaking

JD348 - Some Reasons Why I Like It....

Baled up some short second cutting timothy hay (pics in the 2017 photo thread) with the JD348.

This stuff was short and like baling feathers.

Before I wax on my JD348, I'm not making any commentary on any other baler - IMHO, they're all good.

Several things about this baler make it IMHO very good in thin grasses like I dealt with today. First, the pickup has 6 bars with narrow tine spacing, what New Holland would call "super sweep". I think my old NH68's wide tine spacing and 4 bars would have left a goodly bit of hay behind. The JD pickup - picked up some hay that the rake didn't touch. Not much hay in this second cut, basically clipping the field and gleaning the hay off it. The 348 did an great job of it.

Next, IMHO the JD auger and packer fork allows one to use the baler as a high capacity unit or slow it down to an 80 stroke machine, like a 336 or a 65ish strokes like a 24t. Slow the rpms, reducing capacity and maintaining or increasing ground speed to fill the pickup. I ran the JD348 at about 75 strokes per minute and upped the ground speed in these thin windrows and the baler performed consistently like it was on a heavier first cut, full pick-up and full charge going to the plunger. IMHO the key to this is the auger. Regardless of the rpms, that auger is turning and pushing hay to the plunger side at all times.

The pickup width: I raked several windrows together. This was hay in two days including a late Friday evening mowing/very early Saturday mowing to finish. Tedded on Saturday afternoon, mostly to bust up any slugs of grass, raked today (Sunday) and baled starting at 3:30 pm. Given the short cut to bale timeline, I laid the final two passes of windrows side to side to give the hay as much sun surface area as possible to assist drying. I couldn't have done this with the narrow pickup on the old NH68, but the wide pickup of the JD348 made it possible. BTW - the Agtronix BH-2 read 10.5 to 13 percent humidity the whole time I was baling.

Finally - the this second cut and as I mentioned was thin and even with raking windrows together, they were inconsistent, thick/thin. So I would vary the baler rpms/ground speed to accommodate as I mentioned above. For this application, the traditional side pull type pickup was very nice. Easy on the neck looking back for a view of the pickup the whole time I was baling to make on the fly speed/rpm adjustments. The JD348 pickup is wide open and very easy to see completely into it and see what's going on.

All in all, had a good day of it. Really liking this JD348.

YMMV

Bill

JD348 - Some Reasons Why I Like It....

need to find someone to bale our field Oklahoma

We have a beautiful 20 acre hay field that we need square baled (small bales). It is ready now and our hay guy just flaked on us. How do I find someone? We are in-between Meeker and Prague OK. Have other acreage that needs round bales but the square bales is the most important.

need to find someone to bale our field Oklahoma

Hesston 565T opinions

What do you guys think about the Hesston 565T round baler? There is one coming up at an auction that is in good shape, but it is far away so I want opinions before I decide. It has alligator lacing and has made less then 5000 bales.

Hesston 565T opinions

Common bermuda in coastal hay meadow

New to group and have a problem with common bermuda in coastal hay patch. Sprigged in 1963 and actively hayed for last 10 years. I have several small patches of common in the meadow. Has coastal ever reverted back to common? What are remedial actions to eliminate?

Common bermuda in coastal hay meadow

JBS Sells Canadian Holdings

Drovers.

 

Regards, Mike

 

http://ift.tt/2tT74ow

JBS Sells Canadian Holdings

PMI baler parts

Anyone know of a place (if there even is), where you can get parts for a PMI round baler? I know they sold their warehouse of parts a few years ago (didn't know about it at the time), and that Hutterites have hundreds of em', but will not sell anything. I have the 1511 model. I would believe that the 1511 is the same as a Buhler/Inland 6060/6072 round balers. Thanks for your help in advance.

PMI baler parts

NH 648 header lift cylinder rebuild?

My NH 648 has the optional hydraulic header lift which I really like having. Recently it has started leaking down from the raised position in about 2 minutes. So when I was at my dealer yesterday getting some other parts I had him give me a seal kit for the cylinder. Now that I got to looking at it I have no idea how it comes apart? There is a snap ring on the end of the rod (that I tried removing through the inlet port) but that's it, no glade nut or anything. Anybody got an idea how it comes apart?

NH 648 header lift cylinder rebuild?

RTV

My new nick name for our X100 is... Refrigerated Transport Vehicle :17875:

RTV

RTV-x1120 Steering

I noticed that the steering wheel on our 1120 had the "K" emblem on the steering wheel aligned straight up and down, sort of like your car or truck. The next time I noticed the steering wheel position, the K was like at 4 o'clock and so on. Each time I started and drive the RTV, the steering wheel is in a different position. Anyone know why that might be?

Also, on the blacktop, the RTV easily accelerated up to 25 but according to the manual, you shouldn't run it flat out until after 500 hour service. There is still enough pedal there to easily get to 30 or more.

Anyway, at 25mph, that is about as fast as I would feel comfortable running. The steering feels different to me. Not wrong or bad, just different. Sort of imprecise if you follow me. Is this normal on blacktop?

Feels great on trails, field and township gravel road.

Thanks

RTV-x1120 Steering

Looking for new rake

Got an old H&S Bifold 8 wheel rake and I'm wanting to upgrade. What are some good wheel rakes to look at? Right now I bring in 2 swaths but am looking at possibly getting a 12 wheel to bring in more on thinner second cutting. Just looking around for a good priced rake that does a decent job for Round Bales.

Looking for new rake

Hub City Bearings

Are they any good?  Looking for a fix for the failing bearings and worn shafts on my round baler tailgate rollers.  If the rollers are straight, I am thinking I would like to have the shafts turned down to 1.500" from the original 40mm (1.575").  

Hub City Bearings

Problems with NH 495 Mower Conditioner

I just got started cutting hay and I broke the Knife Head.  I changed out the head for a new one and went cutting again.  Broke the knife head again.  My knifes are sharp and the guards aren't that wore.  Everything looks pretty good.  What the heck is going on?

Problems with NH 495 Mower Conditioner

Italian Ryegrass in Review

I am not real happy with the Italian Ryegrass we planted this year.  Just does not seem to be growing all that well; I was expecting it to be at least knee high by now, over 60 days since planting.  We also ended up with some sort of foxtail that we have not had in this field.  The only thing I can think of is that it was in with the seed.  From what I could find on the net is that Italian Ryegrass does not have a fuzzy seed head.  It is all over the field. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edit:  I have done some research and it could be that it is Garrison Creeping Meadow foxtail, but I am not really sure.

Italian Ryegrass in Review

Beacon Replacement

Since the RTVs are so tall I decided to remove the factory beacon and install LED flashers. I did this on one of our Bobcat 3600s and it turned out well.

Damn rotated photos, lol.

Stock beacon
Attachment 10783

New LEDs
Attachment 10784

Attachment 10785

Attached Images

	2017-07-14 11.18.20.jpg (68.1 KB)
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	2017-07-14 11.19.25.jpg (47.3 KB)

Beacon Replacement

Modifying Haybine

Looking at purchasing a used NH haybine for alfalfa fields.  Currently using a NH Discbine with wide fin kit and enjoy the spread windrow for our humid climate for quick drying, but its hard to get a clean good cut in alfalfa with it.  My question is has anyone modified the fixed chute on the back of a haybine to have the hay land in a more spread out windrow similar to the wide fin kit? 

Modifying Haybine

Square Hay Bales Grapple

Looking for input on grapple for small square hay bales. Looking for reviews on positive and negative the options and designs. How well they work in the field to accumulate the bales if they do, how tight they are for stacking for hauling and in the barn.  Will be used on Front end loader.

Oh ,10 bale size.

 

Thank you.

Square Hay Bales Grapple

NH 315 help (again) Tooth fix new problem

I need to replace the far right tooth on the feeder bar for this Baler. I believe this tooth being broke is causing my shesr pins to go My normal parts guy was not in today when I ordered the new tooth. Anyone have an idea on how to remove this tooth?

Attached Thumbnails

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NH 315 help (again) Tooth fix new problem

~30 acres of hay: equipment help....and why aren't there more tractor FRONT hay rakes

Putting together some equipment for a small square-bale hay operation. About 30 acres total.

Your thoughts and suggestions are welcome.

 

 

I am considering the following equipment (mainly due to price, availability, and practicality).

 

1) JD1219 to cut

2) Fella 405T to tedder

3) M7060 tractor with a front mounted rake, towing a square baler, and dropping into a bale basket.

 

Unfortunately, the M7060 might be a bit light to get that done. Land isn't totally flat, but certainly not hilly either

 

A front mounted rake seems like a logical place to attach it, and such equipment as the MILCO Rake-N-Bale V-rake sounds like a grand idea.

Not sure how that translates into practice though.

 

Also, it appears a front mounted hay rake necessitates an inline baler such as a Hesston 4600. Can a 4600 even feed an EZ Trail bale basket? 

 

The MILCO Rake-N-Bale only has 4 wheels, which seems a tad narrow.

 

 

Trying to minimize crew and maximize efficiency.

~30 acres of hay: equipment help....and why aren't there more tractor FRONT hay rakes

time to change EZ-Trail Bale Basket

Looking at getting two EZ-Trail Bale Baskets to be loaded by an NH315.

The barn can't be driven into, so the full baskets will be dumped at the door.

 

Would prefer a NH Stacker but for above reasons, it doesn't look like it would help reduce labor/time.

 

 

I was wondering how long it takes to change out the baskets hooked up to the baler? And if there is an improvement/modification that could be made (quickhitch, or similar) to speed up the switch.

 

 

 

 

 

time to change EZ-Trail Bale Basket

Kuhn Assistance available

hello,

 

I'm here to answer questions or concerns you may have in the Parts related field.

 

Regards,

 

 

Kuhn Assistance available

Iclane, answer to your question

There should be a plug in the end of the twine tube that is spring loaded.  Be sure the plug is there and under spring tension so it fits snug in the end of the twine tube.  You do not want the plug loose.

 

Check for a groove at the end of the twine tube where the plug is.  Switch the two twne arms, right to left and left to right.  This will give you a new wear area.

 

I remove all tension from the twine this help prevent the twine from popping back up the tube.

 

Have to go now but there are other things you can do, but I would check the twine tubes first.  I will post the next step when I am available again.

Iclane, answer to your question

Tractor lights/flashers switch

My first McCormick tractor. Very similar to case-IH, so maybe one of you who owns case-IH can help?
I'm confused about my McCormick tractor light switch. It doesn't allow use of work lights and flashers at the same time. Looks just like a case-IH switch. The 3rd position is 4 way flashers and hood mount headlights only. If switch goes to position 4, it's work lights only, no flashers.
What if one wants to travel roads at night and need more lights, like the ones on the cab or the a pillar lights or rear lights? I can't turn them on if the flashers are on. Or maybe I'm not doing something correctly?
My other tractors and others I've owned in the past allow use of all lights an flashers.
Maybe this is a safety issue? Or is it an electrical system overload?

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Tractor lights/flashers switch

New Holland BC5070 twister problems

I purchased a nearly new, supposedly reposessed BC5070 to try to increase reliability and production baling wheat straw. The baler showed no wear in any area where wear should be evident, however, the baler has had a lingering problem that has grown to a full grown incapacitation. Tying on the right side became erratic 5k bales ago, however it only missed 1 in maybe 3-400. The problem has gotten steadilly worse such that it now misses 1 in 10 or so. The wire that is over the top of the bale shows evidence of having been gripped and twisted, the lower wire appears to have been sheared off prior to reaching the twisting hook. The problem does not manifest at low rpms just ticking over and trying to watch and diagnose. Even moderate rpms yield no problems, however at rated rpm, the bales are not tied on the right. All rollers are free and not appreciably grooved. Wire is being caught and delivered to the grippers by the needle. Needles appear to be correctly aligned and also appear to be adjusted to penetrate to the correct depth. Grippers appear to be holding and shearing the wire correctly. Twisting hooks are correctly timed and are not grooved at all. I have run out of ideas and nearly out of patience and am looking for advice.
Thanks in advance.

New Holland BC5070 twister problems

case ih 8530 baler

 Been baling with a case ih 8530 for 3 years now. Love the reliability and bale quality of this baler. Also have a massey ferguson 128 baler. Massey bales twice as fast in the field but doesnt match the bale quality most of the time. Are any of the newer inlines faster in the field or is thier something that can be done to 8530 to speed it up? The 8530 runs about 2 mph and the 128 will bale at 4 mph in the same field. I no they are two different types of balers but would like to have the top qualities in one baler. suggestions?

 

 

 

 

 

case ih 8530 baler

New H 7220 Discbine

Well, with the weather we've had this year, I traded my disc mower for a New Holand 9' Discbine with roll conditioner. We have been in an afternoon thunderstorm pattern for some time now and I needed conditioning to speed up the drying process. Hopefully by a day. I am an avid Tedder user and I hope the conditioner will help that much more

New H 7220 Discbine

new to HayTalk! Have new holland baler problem

Hello everyone, I have lurked on this site for some time but this is my first post.  I have a NH br 7070.   When building the bale,  the bale alarm does not sound when bale complete, regardless of the size I set it to.  It fills to overload point if i do not manually stop it and engage the auto wrapping. ( I have the basic bale monitor not the bale command plus).  It should sense the bale size automatically and engage the autowrap when the bale alarm sounds. Problem no alarm and no autowrap cycle initiation.  Is there a bale size sensor that i am not aware of that needs checking?

new to HayTalk! Have new holland baler problem

new to HayTalk! Have new holland baler problem

Hello everyone, I have lurked on this site for some time but this is my first post.  I have a NH br 7070.   When building the bale,  the bale alarm does not sound when bale complete, regardless of the size I set it to.  It fills to overload point if i do not manually stop it and engage the auto wrapping. ( I have the basic bale monitor not the bale command plus).  It should sense the bale size automatically and engage the autowrap when the bale alarm sounds. Problem no alarm and no autowrap cycle initiation.  Is there a bale size sensor that i am not aware of that needs checking?

new to HayTalk! Have new holland baler problem

NH S-1049 Troubleshooting - HELP!

We are running a NH S-1049 and having trouble with the rolling rack. We did 6 or 7 loads just fine today, but now the rolling rack keeps moving back on us and messing up the stack. 

 

We have about 1300 bales still to pick up.....any thoughts?

NH S-1049 Troubleshooting - HELP!

Would you buy a tobacco tractor?

I've heard a lot of good things about the MX Maxxums and I believe I found a jewel. I'm considering buying a MX110. Would you buy one that has spent its life working tobacco? It averaged 400 hours a year, obviously had saddle tanks, no loader. I imagine it was used for transplanting and spraying. Will know for sure when I talk to the former owner. The setup just doesn't seem likely for heavy tillage.

2wd power shift, Cab, 1 owner (trade at dealer but can talk to previous owner), 5900 hours, no leaks. There are 3 repair records and brakes were just repaired by the dealer. Will need different rear tires and the air seat may need some love.

Would you buy a tobacco tractor?

Scam of the day

Sandra

Is this item still available?

Yes

Sandra

Hello

How much per bale?

$125 per ton,bales are about 1500 lbs

Sandra

Ok good

Can I get 10tons

Is it available?

yes,its available for pickup at Reading,Mn 56165

Ok good brb

Hello

You will be sent a check for the payment and the haulers will for the pickup after you have the payment. I will send the payment out to you today. Get back to me with name on check? Address to send payment to? Cell phone number? & amount?

Okay sir

where you from?

 

Sandra

My dad is in Midwest

Kindly get back to me with the information to send payment to you so I can send the payment out to you today

Sandra

My dad is in Midwest

Kindly get back to me with the information to send payment to you so I can send the payment out to you today

Scam of the day

wr long hay grapalator

I am new to hay but have good friend who is giving me some guidance and will also do the cutting and baling of my hay. It will be small square bales. However he depends on friends to do the loading and stacking of the hay which I can not do. (he has some younger healthy friends who enjoy the work out).  I think will need something along this line for loading the hay in the field and then unloading and stacking in barn. I only want to need one for both with no need to change setup between loading and stacking if possible.  

 

Have not seen any of these in action in real life only on video's. Will be using on front end loader on tractor. Have looked all brands on video can find and to me like this one the best.  Looking for feed back on this design, company whether good or bad. If you have another you recommend please do and why. 

 

I am located in SC near Myrtle Beach and not sure whether it was Kuhn or is it Krone, but one's of them nearest dealer is at least 100 miles away and that to me is no dealer support.  

 

Thanks for your suggestions.

wr long hay grapalator

Mower for newly sprigged Coastal Bermuda

I am new to hay and some of this has amazed me. Had few acres (15) sprigged in Coastal this March and was told to mow when it or weeds reached 7 inches and cut to 3 inches. Have been using rough cut and finishing mower for this job. Rough cut does ok in the cutting but does not spread out what it cuts and the finish mower spreads out what cuts very good but requiring slow, even below 3 mph due to the shear amount being processed. This last cutting may have  me where the finish mower will handle it as had heavy Johnson Grass which has me now mowing every week for it's control.

 

My question is would a hay mower be a better choice over a finish mower? I know it does not cut it up as does a finish or even rough cut mower but if only taking off 4 inches is that too much to drop on the 3 inches left? 

 

Mower for newly sprigged Coastal Bermuda

I need needles for a 5420 Case IH Baler

Hi 

Newbie here! I am looking for a set of needles for a 5420 Case IH Baler part # 1337721C1 or a New Idea 551 part # 3732157M1 . I was told that the New Idea 551 was the sister of the the first, not sure that the needles are the same but I am trying to find needles in a haystack!! ACGO doesn't carry these, I didn't find a Case-IH dealer that has any either. I included a jpg that shows the part and part #. Thanks for looking...

I need needles for a 5420 Case IH Baler

Picking hay on a unique place

I got a taste of picking hay on some side hills. I now understand better what some of you guys talk about. The wagon ran off, or should I say slid off on me a couple of times. I figured out quick that I should only load about two tiers on the bad stuff and get back to more moderate ground.
So a guy called this afternoon and asked if I could stack just about 4000 idiot bricks. I grabbed the wife and we ran up to look at the job. The big Field on top is about as nice as you could ask for. He mentioned that he wanted the other two done first. Then I saw them. Holy sweet Mary there were some ugly spots.
I didn't get pics of the worst of it but you will get the idea.
If someone can straighten these the right way, please do. I don't know how.

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Picking hay on a unique place

little tiny black bugs--look almost like oil--on irrigation water

I saw today little tiny black bugs floating on the surface of irrigation water as it came out the gate of my gated pipe. They look like oil or black paint at first. When you get closer you can see they are very small black bugs. I am irrigating alfalfa. These bugs are extremely small--like a pin prick. Am seeking advice about what they might be, if they will harm my alfalfa, and if so what to do about them. Thanks.

little tiny black bugs--look almost like oil--on irrigation water

RamPack Silage Bagger

Progressive Forage Grower.

 

Regards, Mike

 

http://ift.tt/2tHUNRR

RamPack Silage Bagger

NH 315 help

I need to replace the far right tooth on the feeder bar for this Baler. I believe this tooth being broke is causing my shesr pins to go My normal parts guy was not in today when I ordered the new tooth. Anyone have an idea on how to remove this tooth?

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NH 315 help