http://ift.tt/2hFoiRu
Resonates in a way. Have a friend accused of rustling but the guy he allegedly rustled from has been accused of being a thief himself.
Today's Cattle Thieves and the Men Who Stop Them
I am needing a mechanical way to handle small square bales and only have an old tobacco barn to use for hay storage that is not loader/accumulator friendly. I think that kicker wagons may be the best way to go since i will still have to handle by hand whenever I get to the barn. I'm also only talking about +/- 5,000 bales per year so this isn't going to be a huge enterprise. My only issue is that here in Kentucky, there aren't a whole lot of bale throwers/kickers available. However, there are a lot of good used balers around that have been used either alone or with accumulators. I'm leaning towards a used New Holland 570/BC5060 or 575/BC5070 baler due to the fact I like the NH thrower system vs. the Deere pan kicker system. I have good NH, JD, & Case-IH dealers around. I'd also be open to a Hesston/MF inline baler, but those are even more uncommon here in north/central KY. Cat dealer handles MF around here and I haven't had any interaction with them to make a judgement.
The two options I'm looking at are:
1. Buy a local baler, find a used NH 72 thrower somewhere, ship it in, and install it myself
2. Go to central Ohio/Indiana (150+ miles away) and then pull it back myself over 6-8 hours (since these balers are all over 8.5 feet wide)
For anybody who has ever moved the things around between balers, would you recommend travelling to find a complete unit (baler and thrower) or getting a good, close baler and then mounting a thrower on it? Other than the belts, are there a whole lot of things to worry about on these systems? I've read some stuff on NH balers about getting an axle offset on the NH balers to compensate for the additional weight of the thrower on the back. Is there anything else I need to consider before I move forward with this?
Thanks,
Andy
Hi,,
I currently use barley as a nurse crop when sowing my fields down to timothy & alfalfa . I don't have a very market for the barley, so i was looking to replace the barley with another crop. Ive never planted rye grass, but a salesman told me it would make a good nurse crop?? Has anyone tried this? Does much of the rye grass come up a 2nd time ?
I had some money set aside to buy hay seed for next springs planting.The place I buy seed does not have a big turn over. So if I were to buy seed now,it would be seed bagged in 2015. Would the fact that it is 2 year old seed have any impact on the germination rate? I wouldn't think it would make much difference. Thanks Dan
Hey there. I was wondering on how many round bales of alfalfa do you get per acre, per cut, on irrigated and non irrigated land. I know that there is a lot of variables but I hope some one could give me a ruff estimate. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Okay, maybe that is an overstatement, but I saw this on youtube and thought what a perfect solution to PTO drives for tractors.
When I was in tech school a guy (he was too simple minded to call him a farmer) with a blown pto joint on a bush hog came in to have it fixed. After the third time of replacing the U-Joint in 3 days we asked him what he was doing and he simply said bush hogging a field. It took awhile to get it out of him, but he was pulling it with a bulldozer, and every time he made a square corner...bang went his driveshaft. Well this would have prevented that.
I thought it was cool so I am passing it along. (the link to youtube, not my wife)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Tv-aUC6lpM
We all know what good fences make for....this is from last summer.
Regards, Mike
I am looking for hay brokers in the St. Louis or Springfield Illinois area's . Looking to create business options for transporting , selling , buying , trading orchard hay bales . I have round bales done for me at this time . I can have small squares done with part of harvest and rounds also. I would rather have large squares 3x3 or 3x4 baled or buy , sell , trade vs. rounds { rounds are 5x6 }. Storage is a problem now till later this coming year until new hay barn is built. Current barn is not big enough to store a lot of bales, with livestock in and out of barn . I have to decide to buy round baler , small or large baler later next year and do it myself. I currently spray , fertilize , seed , ted and remove bales from fields. Neighbor mows , rakes and bales. Thoughts from anyone ?
regards
John
located west central Illinois
50 miles from St. Louis Mo. and 50 miles from Springfield Illinois
How many of you are in Alabama, Georgia, Tennessee area? The drought monitor is looking Exceptionally Dry in the southeast. Any rains lately?
What's the hay situation looking like that way? It looks as bad on the drought map as it did here in Texas in 2011. Hope it turns around for you all.
Im currently thing of changing from a land packer to a land roller to get rid of more stones. I do like the job that the land packer does on the clay chunks, but the stones have to go! I was going to pull a Rite Way land roller behind my seeder. Do you thing the roller will push the grass seeds to deep into the soil, preventing them from germinating ?
Don't know if I am in the right place, and if I am not I apologize. I bought a John Deere 8440 tractor 4x4. I also bought a square baler 570 new holland and a kuhn 902 disc mower. I heard someone say that my tractor is too powerful for those machines and that I would have to buy a smaller tractor so as to not damage the two units. Now I don't want to go ahead on making another purchase for a tractor if the one I own can do the job. The kuhn and the new holland baler are each 20 feet long, so they are not necessarily small machines. Can anyone help out? Has anyone done this before?
Could not paste URL so search youtube for " Corn Silage Harvesting Bale Gun " shoot out starts at 6:10
Anyone ever use one?
I made the tough decision 2 weeks ago that downsizing was inevitable. Being declared a disaster area due to the drought, I can defer the capital gains until next year.
Was able to place some nice full mouth cows to individuals. Culled the rest by their condition or teeth. I am feeding half of what I was. It was still hard to see gentle momma cows go. I tend to hang on to them too long.
This summer was a challenge. No pasture, small hay yields, low cattle prices. Fed hay all summer when the cows should have been on good grass. Have 2 tons of winter ryegrass and black oat seed that I have not planted and need it more this year than ever. We are still in a D4 drought.
Sold 26 weaned/vaccinated calves that did well.
My wife says I do too much for one person. She may be right. Just grew up working and finding a way to make it work.
I grow spring cereals and summer annuals under pivot for dry hay. I have a notill drill with 7.5" spacing. I have been debating trying cross drilling, planting half the seed one direction and half perpendicular to the first half. I have sandy soils, and my main concern is that I'm losing a lot of fertilizer between the rows(mainly nitrogen). 90% of nitrogen is applied through the pivots. If I kept my seeding rates the same, would this make enough difference to make up the cost of drilling twice as many acres?
Another thought I had: Say in a crop of sorghum sudan, at 50lbs/acre, If I would reduce the sorghum sudan to 40lbs and cross drill 10lbs of foxtail millet, or something similar, to catch more fertilizer and fill in the rows.
Any comments would be appreciated!
Hello Everyone
I have recently found an old New Holland 276 SuperHayliner out of an old barn on my farm. The machine appears to be in good condition with only a bit rust on the cosmetic panels and very little on the inside (even still has most of its paint). I have been looking for a long time for an operators manual to help me set it up and get it going with unfortunately very little luck. The most complicated thing appears to be the knotters as I've never had anything to do with them. Most of my experience with baling is round bales wrapped in a net. If anyone else has a bailer that is the same or similar any tips and tricks would be very much appreciated.
Thanks for taking you time to read this and have a Merry Christmas!!!!
PS I also decided to take a quick video of it (https://youtu.be/MCOOcVZNYYA)
Back in the mid to late 1990's, when we were fighting wet conditions that were making it difficult to put up good quality dry hay in small square bales, we used a Pioneer bacteria-type inoculant. It came in a small bottle and was mixed with 25-35 gallons of water and then sprayed on the windrow as it came into the baler. It seemed to work pretty good at the time and I liked the fact that it wasn't a product that would eat the paint off of the equipment. They don't have anything like that listed in their product lineup on the Pioneer website so I was wondering if there was a similar product still out on the market somewhere. Thanks for any input!
Looking at this individual wrapper. Anyone use a kuhn wrapper? Have a great dealer close. I wrap and stack because I have limited space. Any options like the E-twin that a guy should get? Thanks.
I have a field that is fairly new. This year was the 4th hay season that I have done.
This year due to lack of rain, weeds gained strength in my field.
I am not the owner of the field. The owners are very environmentally fussy about what I do.
I took some weeds and soil sample. Went to the Experimental Station here in Ct. They identified the weeds for me. Talked to the "Weed Scientist". He suggested this Crossbow weed killer to spray. I would love some weed killer that I could spread.
Anyone have suggestion on what to do with this type of situation?
Thank you.
From Growing TN......nothing like companionship to share with someone.....it can make a grown man cry, weep for joy, or turn a smart-aleck into a completely different(joyful) person. The world looks much less bleak with someone you love walking beside you.
Regards, Mike
This got a little discussion a month or so back and I really need to clip one thick orchard grass field that grew too much in the late fall. Probably clip at 6-8" to try to reduce the amount of old dead stuff that would be in otherwise premo bales in the spring. I really don't want to be on that field when it is thawed and greasy and it isn't going to dry out enough to be hard when not frozen. So, my question is do you damage the grass plants when you drive on them frozen? Never really faced that issue before but it seems if I drive on my lawn with heavy frost on it with the gator, it makes marks that take months to overcome. But, I spread manure all winter on frozen ground with no obvious damage. Anyone have any experience on this? thanks.rick
So here is what I'm thinking...scary thought.
I am currently running about 400 acres of wheat on a wheat-wheat-summer fallow rotation in NW Kansas. We are dryland, and can get hot, no irrigation, average around 23" precipitation a year. I really need to change my cropping mix, but trying to figure our a rotation. Milo will be part of it, but we struggle to get wheat in after milo, and beans/corn are a no go here, just too dry and/or hot.
My thought is to add teff in a wheat-milo-teff rotation then back to wheat. I could even add field peas as a pulse crop in a wheat-milo-field peas/teff rotation with the teff going tinto the field pea stubble in June after harvest. Teff would be killed or torn um in early Sept. for wheat planting. I have no cattle, so anything in the rotation would be sold, not fed.
How might teff perform in this type of rotation? Not looking to win the yield lottery, just keep cost down with a potential for return in that year that would normally be fallow.
Thoughts? Is there a better option for the 3rd year than teff that doesn't have a high cost to establish and will still let me get back to wheat.
Trying to get some insight from you guys who have done grass. I've got a field coming out of seed alfalfa I need to plant to grass, and I'm having trouble with what type of grass would work best. Orchard Brome mixes are popular here, often with some ryegrass and festulolium mixed in as well. My other option would be to go to teff for a year or 2 and then back to alfalfa. I have no experience with grass, I'm new to hay and have only been doing straight alfalfa thus far. I'm wondering what kind of real world tonnage difference do you guys see between a good orchrdgrass mix and teff, is it worth the planting it every year ? I have a good moco so I'm not worried about the cutting, but when it comes to drying, I do have a wheel rake but no tedder, am I going to have significant trouble drying one over the other? I know teff can be harder to sell but I believe I have a reasonable market for it here between the horse people and the cattle guys, but is there a noticable difference in what you guys can get for each? And is there any significant advantage in fertilizer needs between the two ?I've been trying to chase down trials on tonnage and performance for the grass mixes everywhere and just can't seem to find any good information, same with teff. Any help you guys could give me would be greatly appreciated.
One of my favorite ground meats...
Regards, Mike
We have been thinking about buying a bale destroyer or a different brand to break up large squares and feed into our small baler. Looking for insight on the cost of operation per bale or per ton, any problems or quality issues with re baling. We need to get more acres covered each day during the season. We baled 60,000 smalls and over 5000 3x3x8 this year, and possibly more for next year.
Sad to report.....the link below is from last October.
Regards, Mike
Over this past year, we've made some contacts or been approached with some buyers that are interested in something more than the full-size pick-up with utility trailer attached - load of hay (100ish bales). Some are interested in bringing out a 53' semi-trailer/enclosed-van type body. From what I can tell, probably get 600ish square bales in one of these.
I kind of got mixed feelings about taking on such customers as we are a small operation, we don't have bale bandits, grapples, skid-steers or tele-handlers. We don't have loading docks, etc. We do have plenty of space to bring in a large semi-trailer, access to our barn/shelters. Mixed feelings with respect to lack of equipment and seriously doubt buying it, even used, would pencil out. Also mixed feelings about man-handling 600ish bales into a semi on a hot august day. Barn is hot enough, I can only imagine how much hotter it is in side that trailer! Can we expect the driver to help load/stack?
What I've been able to glean from reading forum posts is there are several ways to load up a semi-trailer.
Loading dock and bale bandit type bundles loaded by skid steer - much investment required.
A loading dock and skid steer with grapple load driving down into the trailer as well as unloading from the barn. Still expensive.
Grapple system where a grab of bales are set on the trailer - 2 bales high and then pushed to the rear with another 2 high grab of bales until the trailer is loaded out. An accumulator/grapple system (I especially like the Kuhn accumulators) is not out of the question, but still expensive. Probably cheaper than a trip to the ER with a heart attack from wrestling 600 bales of hay in the heat of a semi-trailer....
Then there is the hard labor route where you lift and walk every bale out of the barn, into the trailer and stack! Prefer not to go there.
With the exception using a loading dock along with skid steer managing a grapple or bale bandit bundle, once the hay is on the trailer, I gather it still needs manually stacked. Maybe the telehandler can get the bales up on the trailer and pushed to the rear, but the manual stacking effort is still required.
Then there is the front end of the loading - just getting the bales out of the barn. Goodly bit of labor just getting the bales to the semi-trailer off the stack. You got your slick New Holland bale wagon that picks-up from the field and makes a nice stack in the barn, but is that stack friendly to a grapple or do you have to man handle those bales to get them out of the barn too?
Here's what I'm thinking - on a low budget.
1. There is no getting around manually unstacking bales from the barn and once on the trailer - re-stacking them.
2. To get out of carrying bales out of the barn, up onto the trailer and then 53ft to the rear - why not set up a set of chain type conveyors like one used to put bales in the loft from back in the day?
The thought is - conveyors are relatively cheap and plentiful. Put the conveyors in series, removing one as the truck fills and let the conveyor do the "walking" of the bales from the barn to the trailer. One person loading the conveyor at the barn end and another in the trailer - at minimum.
This is the only way I can figure skinning the semi-trailer cat on a low budget - short of turning down the business in favor of smaller loads of 20 to 100 bales per customer, which is more typical our customer base presently. It would be nice to sell out sooner than later and 600 bales at a pop would definitely accelerate emptying our sheds.
Other concerns: You've just baled hay. The semi-trailer is waiting until you fill the wagon and they want the hay to go straight in to the trailer. I have it in my mind that I want to hold the hay for a month before selling - just to let it sweat-out such that it's my barn that burns down vs a customer and to feel good that there is no dusty hay. I have concerns about loading fresh baled hay, regardless if the meter is showing 11% humidity in the bale or 23% humidity and buffered propionic acid has been applied - going into a nearly air tight semi-trailer that is spanking hot under the summer sun. Is that a concern of yours? Do you sell your squares straight off the field? Any risk/fear that keeps you from doing it? Thoughts?
Sooooooo - conveyors to walk the hay from the barn deep into the trailer or limit the load size to a 100 or so bales per customer and forget the semi-trailer business potential all together?
Anyone man handling every bale from the barn to stacking out the trailer - maybe it ain't no big deal..... ?
Other suggestions?
Any sage advice/experience is much appreciated.
Thanks!
Bill
Anyone tell me where to find a switch like this cheap. Its the alarm trigger on a 630 round baler. NH wants 25$ for it. My local radio shack closed so they are no help. Thanks Attached is screen shot from NH
Looking to buy a new 4 basket tedder. Two local dealers I like and one sells Kuhn and other sells NH and Pequea. By looking at them it looks like the heaviest built one is the Pequea. Its a couple thousand cheaper than a Kuhn but like the Kuhn as well and Kuhn has a good reputation over the years. Then have a few guys say go with Krone? Krone dealer is far away and scares me that years down the road parts will be hard to get quickly because they will always be shipped or two hour drive one way. Has anyone had a Pequea and like it? Seem to be as good as a Kuhn or Krone? Thanks in advance!
has anyone ever tried growing forage soybeans and grain sorghum together for silage or balage? I have searched it but not been able to find much info about it.i grew a forage bean and pearl millet mix this year and made balage I was very pleased with the result was just wondering if there was any thing better than the pearl millet.
It all begins in January 2017.....Progressive Forage Grower.
Regards, Mike
I'm looking at one of these to spread grass and clover seed, no fertilizer. Do they work well? I need to go from 2 lbs/acre for clover to 35 for some rye grass seed. i know they are pricey, however there is too much ground and too little time.
I have a 3 point hitch auger post hole digger. What grade shear bolt should I use where the auger connects to the gear box? Thanks!
Or its less expensive competitor Hygrade Engineering's Silencer. VRTS is about 115 dollars per wheel for my Rowse rake, Hygrade's is 50 dollars per wheel. Has anyone got some real world experience with these products? I need to do something before next stalk season as my current rake wheels are showing their age at 3 years old, and roughly 2500 acres of corn stalks. I realize that the best way to go would be to trade for a Rowse Ultimate with the rubber mounted teeth but I think that will be too many $$ to do before next fall. The steel tines by themselves just can't cope with the abuse of raking stalks especially behind a chopping corn head. I had constant problems this fall with tines from one wheel recoiling so bad that they would snag in the tines of the next wheel and prevent both wheels from turning. I am thinking a tine support ring would prevent that and make the tines in effect stiffer. Any thoughts?
I am having trouble finding a manual for my IH McCormick model 46 baler.
I can find ones you down load but like paper copies. Can anyone tell me where to get them.
I would like to get them for all of my equipment but starting with the one for my baler first.
One can't have to much information about his equipment even if it seams to be strait forward how it works and how to set it up.
Well, decided to go ahead and rebuild the old 347 baler and get a few more years out of it instead of buying new right now. As much as I'd like a new one, no more small squares than we do just really hard to justify when the thing still ties very well and mechanically isn't in horrible shape (just isn't shiny new ) and just needs some new wear parts mainly.
Have a few quick questions I have come across so far. One of the things on the list was a new flywheel bushing and shear pin bushing. The thing would constantly be breaking shear pins or working them loose. Usually it would break the head off and the bulk of the pin would still stay in place and it would keep baling, and would bale fine as long as the pin didn't work itself all the way out. But pretty much every day had to tighten it back up or replace it. Got the flywheel bushing replaced pretty easily. The shear pin bushing seems pretty tight and square still, may just leave it alone.
The new flywheel bushing does not have a hole in it to let grease in from the fitting like the old one does. Is it ok to just drill a new hole so it will take grease or is there some reason the new bushing comes like this?
Second questions is after taking the flywheel off and looking everything over, I think the bigger issue besides the worn flywheel bushing is the actual hole in the arm that the shear pin bolts through (see attached pic). It appears to me to be more wallowed out than the shear pin bushing on the flywheel itself (can't really tell in the pic)...and it does not have a replaceable bushing. Is there any reason why I can't pull this arm off, take it to a machine shop, have them weld it up and re-drill the hole? I would probably take the flywheel along also just to be sure the new hole was drilled out perfectly lined up. This ought to be a lot cheaper than a new entire piece from Deere. Maybe replacing the main flywheel bushing will do enough to take all the play out and the worn hole not matter? I hate to put it all back on just to have to take it back off again though.
Last question (for now anyway) is on the plunger. Have it pulled to add some shims to the one upper guide rail, check the bearings (they are good, replaced those a few years ago) and replace a bottom frame rail in the chamber. There is only a tiny amount of slop in the bearing and pins where the pitman attaches to the plungerhead. How much is acceptable? When I say tiny amount I'm talking what appears to be 1/8" at most of slop/wiggle. I'm tempted to just to leave it alone until it causes problems. Thoughts? The bearing on the other end of the pitman looks pretty good, hardly any slop to it...plus it can be replaced much easier without pulling the plungerhead.
Thanks
Hey all,
We just bought a hay farm and we have this weed that has been slowly creeping in over the last few years (or so we were told). Can anyone identify it or suggest how to get rid of it?
I have a Belltec TM-48 digger with a 12 inch rock auger. I'm getting ready to do a lot of sucker rod fence with 2 3/8" pipe post and my problem is there is a lot of hole left to fill up. A 9" auger (the smallest Belltec offers in the rock auger) is $900.00 so should I buy one. The deal is there is a lot of bouncing while drilling rock and the hole is usually a lot bigger than you want. Opinions please.
AgWeb....Holy Smokes can you imagine eating one of these. I would feel like Judas to spend that kind of money on a steak when there are so many that go without.
Regards, Mike
One Friday we went to the cow sale, and were big time cow buyers, well small time. We ended up buying 17 head. Most of what we bought are between 3 to 6 year old, We did get two heifers, and one 6 to 9 year old cow. We averaged about $975 per head. Some of them look a bit rough. The did have some really nice three year old bred cows that went for between $1800 to $1900, and some bred heifers that sold between $1200 to $1400. Unfortunately they were not withing our price range. They started to get a little cheaper as the sale drug on. We wanted to pick up another 8 head, but was getting tired. I guess we will go to next Fridays sale.
We vaccinated, taged and branded them on Saturarday. My brand look pretty good on the cow.
Jay
I am beginning to have great concerns about BT....seems that it is beginning to make a comeback again....and is beginning to spread into the deer herd....again. I saw recently where 2 large bovine herds(Dairy & Beef) in Northern Michigan have tested positive. What was once thought to be eliminated or under control is starting to re-emerge sporadically across the country. Right now it seems to be concentrated in the Northern reaches of our country. What a devastating thing this could evolve into.
Regards, Mike
We are feeding 70+ head in our new covered/concrete lane. There is an accumulation crap and dropped feed (not much feed) on the concrete slab. We don't want to drive the 7K lbs skid steer around on the slab too much. I thought maybe a smaller quad with a snow plow could clear the 200' lane where we can load the dump trailer from the end. Not many quad plows around SEAZ, and I don't really know what the capabilities might be.
I never knew there was such a size 28" x 48" ?? Not quite the 3x4 I wanted, but will stack nicely.
Too far gone?
Stop & take a look..... walk.... run.....or run while shooting backwards over my shoulder?
anyone have ballpark figure to rebuild bale chamber in 1992 nh 570 baler w/kicker. new knives too. thanx
Hi guys I'm looking to upgrade my mower and looking at used center pivot disc moco's. I've found a nice looking Kuhn FC 353 for sale on a dealers lot. Anybody run one of these?Anything to watch out for on this model? Or steer clear all together?
Anybody every flood groundhog holes with water? How many gallons per hole? I have some holes in a soybean field near some neighbors. Smoke bombed them several times. Cant shoot. I can trap them, but the holes are the farthest most inaccessible field. I don't feel like checking traps for a week straight...
Currently have a Vermeer 554XL 2001 model. Looking to buy a new or good used round baler. Never had any major issues with my 554XL, just normal wear and tear maintenance. Looking into net wrap, or a combo of net wrap and twine. So far I have been looking at JD and Vermeer. Any thoughts on which baler you think is better. JD or Vermeer?
I have a question about the New Holland 154 high capacity wheel rake. I have seen the maximum raking width for these rakes depending on number of wheels. My question is: Is there a minimum raking width or can you simply open it the desired distance for the tonnage and desired windrow? Also can you open or close the rake on the go if you hit heavy or lighter hay at different points in the field? Thanks for any feed back.
The first video is the accumulator followed immediately by the grab stacker. Not bad for homemade...I like it.
Regards, Mike
Had a fall project dumped in my lap thanks to mother nature. A wind storm came thru and tore up an old hay shed. Built a 40'x60' with 16' walls as a replacement. Covered the North and West side walls of the shed. Estimating I can store up to 2,000 bales using my grapple and pallets on the floor. I know it is much easier to get in and out of.
The Lane Barn. AgWeb. I believe Tom(barnrope) needs to get in touch with AgDay as his barn is really cool.
Regards, Mike
My wife and I just purchased a 165 acre farm in central NY. There are currently approximately 60 tillable acres. Of that, 20 acres were hay field that was not cut in 2016. The remaining 40 acres were leased to a farmer who had soy and kidney beans planted. My plan is to have all tillable in hay. My question, how to begin, soil samples, brush hog fields that were not cut, have the fields limed, till old hay field, what to plant, etc... I know this can go a million ways, just looking for ideas on how to proceed. I currently have a JD 2640, New Idea Cut/ditioner, rake. Maybe some equipment suggestions. Any help will be appreciated.
I don't know a great deal about irrigation.....but the historic drought that I just went through has me thinking about irrigation.
I have a field that is basically 900'x1600' rectangle. Basically flat except for a 15' rise in elevation in the middle of the length. In other words the field lies in two planes. There is a substantial river at one end of the 900'. I would pump water from the river.
I have read where hose and reel is the most inefficient, but in my case I am thinking that it would be best for my situation. I am interested in opinion and information from our members that are directly involved with irrigation.
Regards, Mike
Copyright © 2010 Net Tractor
Blogger Templates by Splashy Templates
PSD design by Katrin Wegmann