Bought a JD 3020 this summer, no loader. Brother in law has a 175 sitting around. Has anyone ever mounted a 175 on a 3020? Know if it is even possible?
Loader help
Bought a JD 3020 this summer, no loader. Brother in law has a 175 sitting around. Has anyone ever mounted a 175 on a 3020? Know if it is even possible?
Hey guys, I've heard that asphalt would be the better choice when used in a hay barn as opposed to gravel or concrete.
Does anyone here have asphalt in their barn?
I was quoted a "base asphalt #57 mixture" and a "surface pavement mix" -- both are way cheaper than concrete -- not entirely sure the difference or what would be the best option, though.
Thanks in advance!
Installed a boiler for a guy to heat his horse barn of all things, check cleared so whatever.
Anyways, he’s looking for some round bales but wants me to run em thru my Jaylor 3650 then he’ll come and get em with a dump truck after being processed.
His son is looking to start breeding horses so they’ll be feeding more and he wants to try some before buying his own to grind/process on site. Guess it's the way all the large horse ranches in Mexico feed theirs, cuts waste down to about nil, just like with cattle.
Whats the going rate for processing bales?
Any problem getting parts for a New Idea 5209 disc mower conditioner? One for sale reasonably priced near me.
Hi
Has anyone used the teddy bear hay fluffer? It is hard to find out info about them because. They are made in Canada. The manufacture are Manonites and don't use computers. I called them and really want to try this machine. I cater to the horse hay market. Always use a tedder but really like the basket type but are way to slow. This machine has 6 bars so the ground speed has got to be way better. Plus more teeth.
Come on folks from Canada speak up you guys are using them.
Ok thanks
Hears what they look like if you don't know already.
https://www.agdealer.com/listings?q=Teddy+Bear+Hay+Fluffer
Progressive Forage Grower.
Regards, Mike
Hi i am thinking of buying a one way plough a Chamberlain or international, i have spoken to various people some say they are fantastic some say there no good, i have ploughed a paddock with a moldboard plough but i need something to chop all the clumps up.is it worth buying a one way plough Thank you.
I have a NI 3715 spreader bought new I think in 03. So it has a solid 15 years with non-stop contact with horse manure and sawdust. Parked in a pit with a roof and 2 sides so not a lot of saturation of the manure other than what is in the bedding. Had galvanized sidewalls and HDPE floor. Just putting my 3rd or 4th apron chain it it and see that the chain rub rail at the bed is starting to go. One spot showing the floor but other areas still have a fair thickness left on the rail.
My question- has anyone been successful in adding a new rail? There is not enough competence in the existing rail to weld to so I would have to put some type of angle in and bolt to the side wall. It is not replaceable by itself, it was formed into the sidewall. If not that approach, what other would you suggest I look at? I know going to the spreader store is painful and I dump it now anyway since I have lost my place to spread it. If I replaced it I would get a dump trailer with a spray in bed liner.
I don't know if this has been discussed here, but I found this article interesting. What are your thoughts?
https://www.farmprogress.com/marketing/consider-no-depreciation-cow-calf-operation
Just noticed this cool old Farmhand video from the 50s or 60s on youtube. Some basic information for anyone considering one on there.
Know the time of the year you do something in your area will vary compared to another area and maybe some things are needed in one area and not another but trying to develop game plan and time table for my coastal bermuda to have a great crop. Do have vassey grass which am getting some control. Crop has produce three cuttings of about 60 bales (square) per acre per cutting. This week saw the last of it sold. We have gotten good reviews of the hay.
Do you burn your fields off and if so the benefits.
What do you spray for before it begins to green up?
When do you apply fertilizer?
When do you apply nitrogen?
When do you apply lime and have you used Bio Liquid Calcium?
Do you subsoil your fields and if so when do you?
Weed killer you like and any you may not impressed with.
How do you patrol for insects?
Any suggestion you have is appreciated. You have really helped me a lot and it has been appreciated greatly. Thank each of you very much. Kenneth
Anyone here tried making and selling the mini squares? I am wondering how the Messick mini balers perform. Also is there a good market for the mini's .
This is a series of videos we took baling hay in 2018. First year with the #42 Ejector (pan kicker), so a few bales went over the sides and back... 2018 was a most difficult haying season with all the rain we had and in the video you will see ragged cut grass that was from lodging. We used a John Deere 5055d tractor, JD 348 baler and JD 42 pan kicker - or ejector as Deere calls it. The hay is timothy.
I appreciate everyone's answers to my questions throughout 2018 and wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
Bill
Looking to add another baler to the fleet. Currently have a MF 2170 that has been a fantastic baler. Looking around I can see that I could buy a NH BB340 use for a lot less money. Even more so if I buy on a auction. The question though is would I be happy with the NH? I am only baling alfalfa and dealer support is the same either way.
Some behind the scene drivers in the forage industry. By Progressive Forage Growers Lynn Jaynes.
Regards, Mike
https://www.progressiveforage.com/blogs/editors-notes/behind-the-scenes-trends-driving-forage
From Progressive Forage Grower.
Regards, Mike
A historical look over the last 75 years into the development of this Southern grass.
Regards, Mike
After two years of battling cancer, and still battling it, it has really taken a toll on us financially. We are still above water, but used a lot of resourses to do it: selling off the equipment, woodlot, sheep, and soon...one of our houses.
The woodlot was cut by a logger who stole the wood; 75 tractor trailer loads. That went to court, but he was handed down a deferred sentence. The restitution is $1800 a month, and a $2000 fine if he pays me per month after Feb 26th 2019, or $200 fine if I am paid in full before that date. He just had all his eqipment repossed by the bank, so I suspect he will be going to jail soon (he has a serious gambling problem) and just do not see him paying me $1800 a month after Feb even.
But when some people from church wanted to rent our home, we thought it would be a good idea to make money on that house (2500 sq ft @ $1000 a month), so we spent $1800, and 5 weeks of working on this Tiny House and moved in. We actually like Tiny House living. before everyone was so spread out, but now we are forced to be a family! The house has lower costs all in all, and while it has a long way to go before it is really how we want it, it is getting there.
About the toughest thing has been for Katie and I. The girls initially did not want to move here, so we told them they could each have their own rooms. This is a four bedroom house, and while TINY rooms, there was (4) bedrooms, where as our old house had only (3) bedrooms. But if you do the math on that, it does not work out well; (4) daughters and a (4) bedroom house...it means Katie and I sleep on the couch/floor. We want to keep this houses small size, so we will have to be creative in doing that, but that is our goal; to stay living Tiny House style.
The house was in rough shape. We stripped it right back to the studs, replacing the sheathing, studs, clapboards, while adding wiring (it essentially had none), adding insulation (it also had NONE), then replaced the wallboard. We also swapped the physical locations of the living room and kitchen, made the bathroom bigger, and brought everything out of the basement like the cold water and hot water tanks. We also jacked the house up, and stiffened the second floor stringers because they were only 2x5's spanning 18 feet, 2 feet on center. Sagging 4 inches, we jacked a few inches out of them, and sistered on new stringers. Having a sawmill helped of course, in getting the costs down, and the strange lumber sizes made.
Sadly, the people from church signed the rental agreement, and then realized how much a 2500 sq ft home costs to heat, and bowed out. It kind of sucked as we already had moved, but now we are thinking about just selling the other place. We own it outright, so the extra money would be nice.
Tree leaves around our hay fields have always been a problem and especially problematic on newly sown fields. A couple of years Jeff used the hay rake and then rolled them (small rolls/no twine) and dumped them in back in the woods. Had been following past discussions on here about blowers and finally that project made the top of the list this fall. Was going to post on one of the original threads but didn't want to go to that much trouble to find them again .
Tried uploading the little video on here but even edited down it wouldn't work so here is a link that hopefully will work.
Shelia
https://www.facebook.com/shelia.furlong/videos/1955229614546925/
this one is in a reply in the comments
https://www.facebook.com/shelia.furlong/posts/2108881952757476:16
I interseed my pastures with my no till drill. First does creeping alfalfa actually creep and increase in density? Second; Vernal alfalfa was what we planted years ago and it does sell for less. Anyone have any recent experience with vernal for hay and especially for interseeding. thanks
What is your view on buying short term cows. I am going to look as 35 head of probably 8 or 9 year old cows on Saturday. These cows have been run on the Red Desert of Wyoming; I will be putting my cows on irrigated pasture next summer, so I will have soft feed for them to eat. He is asking 900 per head, but I was thinking starting at 750, but not going over 30k. I would like some opinions here,
Thanks in advance.
Jay
No, my wife is named Katie, I was talking about generator pictures.
There was a good discussion going on the Shout Out Boxes, so I thought I would start the conversation here, mostly to show how Iet my PTO Jenny up for quick use.
Mine is a 20 KW PTO generator, sitting in its own dog house and hard-wired right into the house. It is not as good as a backup generator that comes on automatically, but in 10 minutes can be in service. It can also power up my whole house as well with clean power. I had it given to me, but it needed cleaning up, paint and a PTO shaft, so in all it cost me $300 for it. As for fuel, I have 275 gallons of diesel fuel on hand for emergency use, allowing me 21 days of run-time. The longest our power has been out is 14 consecutive days.
It is not as good as a standby back up generator, but PTO's give pretty good KWs per dollar spent.
I typically use round pressure treated posts and pound them in with our tractor mounted pounder. I had some locust trees come down in a storm and I am considering getting some square posts sawed out of the trunks. Has anyone pounded posts like this in? I am wondering if the post will split under the pounding pressure if the grain isn't 100% straight. I detest digging post holes and tamping posts so I really don't want to go that route.
If pounding woulding work my neighbor has a skidsteer mounted auger. I was wondering if I could use the auger and make a hole but not pull the dirt out of the hole. Just loosen it all up, then pound the post into the loose dirt. Anyone ever try that?
From Progressive Forage Grower. It's been about 6 months ago when several producers in the Northeast were complaining about low prices and low demand of small squares. My how a few months can change the game.
Regards, Mike
From Progressive Forage Grower. It's been about 6 months ago when several producers in the Northeast were complaining about low prices and low demand of small squares. My how a few months can change the game.
Regards, Mike
I have a fair amount of grease and crud on the tine arms on my rotary rake (Miller Pro 900). There's some on the underside of some arms and a little bit around where each arm bolts to the gear box. I checked the gear oil level throughout the season and it wasn't low.
Referring to page 24 and 25 of the parts manual, I'm wondering if it would be the arm gaskets (#28), potentially the oil seal (#32) on the arm, or #18 oil seal.
Now that I think about it, when I received the rake the arms had been removed, and when I was reinstalling the arms I don't recall any #32 seal being there, just the big washer, so maybe the seals ripped apart when they removed the arms. But that doesn't look to be where the oil is coming from.
http://www.artsway-ag.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/MP17.00668-900-IPL.pdf
What do you think?
A friend of mine has I think bought a D8 somewhere near Indiana Pa and he was looking for someone that could remove the blade to get it ready for transport. I guess he's trying to avoid making the trip there just for that. I was wondering if any of you guys in Pa would know or know of anybody that would be capable of doing that.
Thanks
I have leased some pasture for next year, and now with the added space I am going to increase my numbers. I am currently using a spreadsheet, but I really don't like how I have it set up. I need something better to keep track of all my cows. Is there any good software out there? or maybe a good spreadsheet template that you don't mind sharing. There has to be something better than what I have now.
Working on some year end business, its always interesting to figure cost of production. Whether its straight alfalfa, alfalfa/grass mix, straight grass, or somewhere in between, what is your cost of production per ton? I am always amazed at what it ACTUALLY costs to produce a ton of hay. I realize there is differences in quality, and that adds or detracts a little from cost of production. After I had to sell the cows, I figured my CoP per pound of beef, I was amazed where i could have changed management practices and made a big difference. Our corn/soybean CoP isnt totally done yet as we just finished harvest last tuesday. Insurance hasnt gotten back to us on total payment.
Im not totally done doing the math yet, so I will add mine when I get to that point.
Select the best type to fit your region and management. Progressive Forage Grower.
Regards, Mike
Ag-Fax. 2018 test results on cotton and beans......with plans to expand on additional crops.
Regards, Mike
Going to have a 7 day window of rain/snow free weather and contemplating wrapping some hay. This hay is timothy, orchard, and smooth brome and has been through several deep freezes and thaw cycles.
Is it worth it??
99% would be sold and what I don't want is bales of slime. Have never made hay like this so if nobody else has I may just do a few bales and feed myself and see what the results are.
Plan would be to mow everything Sunday and bale Mon.-Thursday. Temps are in upper teens at night with 32 being the highs. Should be just cold enough to put a crust on the ground to minimize making ruts.
Would not be thinking of doing this but need the income from sales and I am predicting it will sell decently. Earlier this fall already had an inquiry for semi loads of baleage for spring.
So our parts guy had surgery today and will be gone for probably 6 weeks, most of that time I will be the only one there that knows how to run the system (and I don't know as much as I'd like) , so I'm just asking for any helpful tips from the guys that have been in this much longer than me.
Need a loader for our IH574, anyone know what models will fit?
Thanks
When you mentioned the dealers changed the timing of the stuffer, I became curious as to what they could change. The only part I could see that could possibly be changed was the augers bolted to the stuffer. I am attaching a file showing the auger and stuffer from a 560. The way the machines come from the factory is with the end of the auger in alignment with the first stuffer finger. If your stuffer is not like that, could you take a photo of the stuffer auger in relation to the stuffer. Thanks
Microsoft Word - Stuffer.pdf 59.72KB 3 downloads
Intuition caused me to have to make a trip to my NH dealer today. Needed oil filter, cabin filter, hydraulic oil and wanted to get their year-end deal on net wrap.
Pulled into their parking lot and saw a 4 star tedder sitting over on the side. Salesman was talking to another fellow about a manure wagon. I was intrigue by the tedder and checked it out and liked the looks of it. Salesman comes over and says he could make me a real good deal on it today because it was the last day of their fiscal year. I liked the idea of the hydraulic wings and tilt. The wings on my old tedder were starting to get heavy.
I picked up the parts, etc. then went in and asked how good of a deal -- he told me, I asked a few technical questions, thought about it for a bit, then said "Let's do it."
I am a little concerned about the gear connection to the outer wings. They use a "carbo-austempered finger drives" -- something I've never heard of, but Google says it's a method hardening steel. So, I guess I'll see.
Ralph
Live in northern Florida with winter temps occasionally hitting 28-32 degrees. Would like to know what folks up north do to protect your pipes from freezing? I have mine wrapped and duck taped this year with those pool noodle things which are thicker than the regular black wraps from Lowes. I do leave the pipes slowly draining but that is a pain in the butt plus sometimes water is not dripping fast enough and pvc pipes will freeze, even busting and having to repair them. I heard to close main valve and open faucets to drain water? I sometimes travel for my job so looking to make it easier for wife while I am gone. Thanks
I'm still in the search finding that discbine i can drag home before Christmas. I have one more to checkout this weekend. I did appraisals on couple different year models (2010, 2013) from ironsolutions.com. BTW, anyone use this site to evaluate equipment? To compare the appraisal to asking price is a huge difference, about 25%-30% difference. I tried to negotiate down to the appraisal price but dealer does more than scoffs. Is there a supply and demand thing going on where the dealers get what they want on discbines?
I spoke with a dealer yesterday concerning trade-in values and retail values on my tractor and haybine which he gave me what I consider sound advice. We both came up with the same numbers. Maybe tractor prices and discbine prices are a world apart. I ended up buying the tractor well below asking price and market price.
I am going to put this in the machinery section, but it could go into several categories. This is the first I've heard of it. Rather than copy the article I will post the address for you to cut and paste, if interested. It was apparently invented in London, England. But, I am a twine man myself.
https://ift.tt/2KBdAXv
Come on New Holland. The system you had on the BRs was near perfect. So by all means reinvent it so that it is over complicated and too touchy to handle the widely varying conditions we have here. I’m glad I can now gift wrap bales just like John Deere. I feel really good about that because with the BRs I was able to gift wrap only one bale in nearly 35,000 that we made. Since we got the 560s Ive lost track how many have way too much wrap. Just a lot of dumb ideas on these wrap systems.
Rant to be continued. Cows to feed yet.
Has anyone on here done this?
I have an old stand of alfalfa (5 years) that took a beating this year with all the rain. Had water standing on it a couple times, normally this ground is drained pretty good but this year was different. Anyway the stand is getting tired, and the foxtail moved in. I need to try and take at least one cutting off of it next year. But was thinking after first cutting that I could no till in soybeans and roundup kill the alfalfa? Then next year tear it up and plant it back to alfalfa.
Usually around here what I have seen and done isl tear up the alfalfa field in the fall, plant corn in it next year. Then take it back to alfalfa the year after. But to try and get one cutting off I'd be too late for corn so I thought maybe putting beans in to try and get something off of it for the rest of the year might work, and might get me back to alfalfa quicker.
A very interesting question is posed.....from DTN.
Regards, Mike
Sorry for another "overseed" question. I did a search and didn't find my answers.
I have an opportunity to rent a 65 acre field that is established with a mix of various grasses (brome, timothy, fescue) and a fair amount of clover. Prior tenant said "not much clover in first cutting, but latter cuttings have 40-50% clover".
I'm not a fan of clover. I was wondering if anyone has ever terminated the clover in a grass field (spray it with 2, 4D or Dicamba) and overseed with a grass to fill in. Perhaps overseed early in the year, and spray to kill the established clover mid-summer?
Thanks
Cyclonic
I'm converting my JD 559 to net wrap with a kit I bought from the dealer.
I am planning on using the JD brand net wrap.
Time to order for next season as they are offering good prices if bought in November.
I don't know if I should use the "Edge to Edge" 64" wide net,
or the "Coveredge" 67" wide net
To me the Coveredge seems like the way to go, might make better looking more durable bales.
Dealer says order some of both to see which I like best, well I don't want to get stuck with one type I don't want to use.
What do you guys say?
Ive got a RB460 silage special and have a 7070 also. I've noticed lately that the belts will start slipping and seem to be in a bind just before I dump the bale, and when I do dump the bale, the belts squeal rather loudly , seems the grass is building up at the front roller where the scraper knife is, i would understated short hay giving me a problem but this is not short, the 7070 never has this problem, Im afraid Im going to mess up the belts if i don t figure this out, thanks
Last week I decided that I was having too many problems with my 10 year old New Holland round balers, considering how much we have yet to bale this season. Called two local dealers for prices and bought 2 new New Holland Roll-Belt 560 Specialty Crop balers from one of them. They were delivered yesterday and we put them in service today. These are the old balers.
I will try to get a picture of the new balers soon. I will miss the BR series balers for the most part. They make the nicest bales of any baler out there. Unfortunately, I am making more bales in a fall than what a BR series baler can endure, unless it is in perfect shape going into the season. I plan to sell the two balers pictured, but keep my oldest baler around as it is worthless on paper, but still very functional yet if I ever get it put back together, so that will be my old times fix I suppose.
Pennsylvania. Thieves steal and butcher a cow on the side of the road.
Regards, Mike
https://www.agweb.com/article/holstein-cow-stolen-from-pennsylvania-farm-butchered-along-road/
Need to get new tires for our IH 684. Currently has 18.4/30's (which are loaded) on it. Anyplace online good to get tires? or anyone know of someone that does it at a reasonable price Near Pittsburgh pa?
Thanks
I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on a local NH 163 4 star hydraulic tedder for sale with the digidrive. It's a 2005, he bought it new, it's in really good shape, paint's still really good, and it's a vertical fold. It's been stored inside and he's asking only $3000 for it. Retiring from farming.
I understand these to be made by Kuhn and they're a cheaper version of the Kuhn model (that last part is only heresay, I don't know if it's actually true).
I'm just doing my due diligence and thought I'd ask the experts here...any comments, opinions, thoughts on this particular model?
Has anyone ever used an all-terrain forklift for stacking bundles, like 15 pack grapples, or even 21 pack baron bundles?
I'm looking at solutions for getting more height in my stacks, and the best solution is a telehandler, but I don't have the cash for a decent, smaller sized one. I was thinking about an older Deere or Case (Deere 480B), modify the mast to hook up skid-style attachments, with aux hydraulics, and a little more reach. They lift about 20', which is what im looking for.
thanks.
Thinking about how long a round baler can be expected to last before its “wore out”, am I wrong in thinking that all else being equal, a baler that has made more bales per hour over its operating life will have more bales on it before its wore out? My view is that since a round baler is constantly turning the crop in the chamber, there is wear in the chamber and to the driveline all the time it is running. In other words, round baler wear is as much a time factor as it is a bale count factor. I wouldn’t expect that a baler that averaged one bale per minute is going to last twice as long as one that made a bale every two minutes, but there has to some benefit in more bales per hour?
I am very interested in the grappalator they make and sell. However find little info on the company and there is a thread here began years ago and this year some added to it. Looking for any feed back on info the company and the product.
Thanks
Welp, it's that time of year again.
Gunshots across the creek to the North, and behind the house along another creek bed.
Elmer Fudd, and his buddies, are at it again. Stinkin' deer season.
I don't hunt, don't like the meat. Beef..........or nothing. Pork, and chicken, only on point of starvation. Fish belong in the ocean.
Fences are only a slight inconvenience to these folks. Private property is a shadowy concept buried somewhere in their pin head mini brains.
So...........back to the yearly routine...........
Bag of boollits (yeah, I keep my reloads in baggies, it's cheaper), and 44 mag by the back door. Sound carries, and makes a pretty cool muzzle flash at sunrise.
Notifies the scum that you're out and about, and keeps the deer from traveling (Elmer can sit there all morning, and they ain't movin')
Some knucklehead at the gym suggested taking a 9 mil down there, and run them off (that's what he'd do ). Yeah...…...like I wanna get in a gun fight somewhere out by myself in the pasture . That's really brilliant.
So goes another deer season.
Early winter weather gets the sitting around "winter farming" and the talk veered to hay rakes. The question came up, probably because someone saw one at a sale, about how narrow the NH 216 will rake. The specs give two 16' swaths/27' wide stretch but what is the minimum for thick hay?
Shelia
I was at an auction a couple weeks ago and my hand accicently slipped out of my pocket and bought an old 3pt. Vicon RC 300 rake tedder. I need another tedder like I need the flu.
It is 3 point and seems to be in working order except for a few missing tines. It is so easy to move to some of my little isolated hay fields, that it might be handy to use. or....It may just go to the junkers, but I can not find much on-line about it. Can't even find a manual. But Vicon is a good brand and the little machine seems solid and might be of use if it does the job.
The PTO shaft is worth more than I paid for it .Have any of you ever used one? Do you have any suggestions, input or insights? Thanks
Wondering if anyone runs any kind of accumulator with an old baler. We only do around 20 acres a year grass and alfalfa. But getting help around to run the racks (we do mostly small squares to sell) is getting harder since kids are all moved out. Been looking at the accumagrapple style things to put on the loader or skid steer. But wondering if my old NH Super 78 can make a consistent enough bale to work well with one?
I'm thinking I can make a more consistent bale if I control my speed based on the baler and not the help on the rack. I do know I tend to make a better bale when I'm putting it on the ground....
But was wondering if anyone else runs an old baler with any kind of accumulator?
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