Kuhn made Gehl tedder out of time.I suspect the guy has some gears slipping in the downshaft.Any ideas welcome.
Thanks.
Tedder out of time
Vermeer 504 Super I Problems
jeudi 30 mai 2019
I started another thread about this baler but thought it better to start a new thread. I hauled the hay I baled last week to the barn today. I originally thought I just had a few bales that one string did not tie on but found that the bales were very loose and a LOT hay was on the outside of the strings on several bales. Really shabby looking bales. I did tinker with the bale density but most of the time the max pressure was 800 psi. A friend that custom bales looked at my hay and said I need to remove the belts and cut them all to the same length and relace them. Is this a good starting point? How do I troubleshoot a loose bale with hay outside the strings? I really dont know what to do next.
Vermeer 504 Super I Problems
Cimarron Plus Prior to Planting?
I am planning to drill fescue and orchard grass for the first time this fall and wanted to kill off as many weeds as possible prior to planting. Does anyone know of an effective herbicide I could spray that would not hurt the new crop between now and before I plant in October. I have heard Cimarron Plus may be the best bet, but I want to make sure before I spend the money on the seed and renting the drill.
Cimarron Plus Prior to Planting?
Summer to Fall Herbicide and Planting
To all who may have some helpful advice:
This fall I am planning to no-till drill fescue and and orchardgrass to my pastures for the first time. I thought it would be best to spray some type of herbicide prior to planting so I do not have weeds competing with my freshly planted grass, but I seem to keep getting mixed opinions from other farmers and the local co op on the best course of action. A little background on my situation is my pastures are located in North Alabama. I had soil samples done last fall and applied the recommended amount of fertilizer to the fields this March. The fertilizer alone has made a big difference, but the grass still is not as thick as I think it should be. I don't have an abundance of weeds now, but my objective is to kill all weeds possible before planting this fall, without hurting the new grass.
Any opinions on when and what type of herbicide to apply prior to planting?
Summer to Fall Herbicide and Planting
848 chains
I got a new set of upper chains for my New Holland 848 baler and they came 1 bar short of the original. I assume this is standard; not a mistake. Any comments?
848 chains
Relay for a NH 650
mercredi 29 mai 2019
The relays in my junction box are hit and miss.
I cross referenced the part number on the actual relay and found the same relay for a chevy truck.
I purchased that relay and it didnt work...
The part number from Case is 47802977
I guess my main question is why would the chevy relay work if the number on the relay is the same?
Relay for a NH 650
Agrolead spreader
G'day everyone, Has anyone over there had any experience with agrolead brand, they are very well priced but cant seem to find out much on them. Cheers
Agrolead spreader
What am I doing wrong
Realize that whole lot of things may be wrong, but really want answers as to why the center of the bale looks like this. I baled about 200 bales with the new (to me) JD 457, that I recently acquired. Most of the hay was oat hay, a little of it was rye grass. Every once in a while, maybe 5% of the time, a bale would come out with part of the core poking out one side. I appreciate all of the help that this forum has provided, and thank you in advance for your advice.
What am I doing wrong
Newer VS Older Seed Drills - Worth it?
Hello there,
I'm in the market for a seed drill to plant crops that I'll later turn into hay. Mainly sudan grass, oats, and rye. I'm looking around but I don't know very much about seed drills, so I wanted to ask for you all's help on this. There are many older John Deere Van Brundt drills for sale in the $1000-$1600 range which look perfectly serviceable, and there are 8200 and 8300 / 8350 / even some newer looking 450 drills for $3000 to $5000. Which is best? I realize that's a very open ended question, but I was hoping that someone who knows a lot about seed drills could share what some of the improvements would be on the newer ones.
Do you think they'd be worth it, for what I'm trying to do? I'm happy to spend the extra money if its worthwhile to do so, and/or if parts are easier to find for the newer stuff, but without these reasons I'd rather not. What do you think?
Newer VS Older Seed Drills - Worth it?
How to spray burn down?
mardi 28 mai 2019
How to spray burn down?
barn is now a drive thru
A neighbor calls and says what's that hole in your barn. A 20 year old drove 75 yards off the road into my barn this morning. He left the scene, drove 30 miles to work in Norwood Ohio. Fortunately the car is registered in Ohio and his front license plate was laying on top of my bush hog. He actually broke one of the poles in two that hold the barn up. How did the radiator survive??
barn is now a drive thru
Vicon km281
lundi 27 mai 2019
Vicon km281
Vemeer & John Deere roll bar bearings Old to New
I have a John Deere 700 rake that is really a Vermeer R23 with different paint. Vermeer came up with new style bearings a few years back. Changing over from the old style to the new style is a bit of a problem.The new style is 1.5" diameter and the old style is about 1 3/8". I checked with the JD dealer tech and he suggested using a grinding rasp on a drill and go around and around. That is the way they do it. There is not a hammer big enough to make it fit. Last year I went with the rasp idea and just about wore myself out along with a drill and rasp. A reamer would work but could not find a 1.5". After replacing both ends on one roll bar this year and wearing out my wrist i figured there has to be a better way.
My solution was to take the end cap, knock out the grease zert, take it to the drill press with a 1 1/2" hole saw and cut a hole in the end cap. Next take another end cap and knock out the grease zert. Using the bolts on the rake attach the cutout template on the outside and the other on the inside and carefully line up equal distance around the hole. Next take your hole saw on a low speed drill and using the template cut it out. Repeat the process on the other end.
I replaced 6 bearings using this method in the same amount of time of replacing two the other way.
I ordered the complete set from https://www.shoupparts.com/SH114683-Tine-Bar-Bearing-For-Rakes for $34.95. Of course you can replace the bearing with the old style for $20.95. Me I like not having to grease 24 bearings. In time I will replace the remaining 8 then it will be totally updated.
See the attached pictures.
Attached Thumbnails
Vemeer & John Deere roll bar bearings Old to New
Rtv900 will not move forward or back
It can be shifted to all gears. When attempting to accelerate in all gears a grinding noise is heard and the machine dies. Could this be bent or broken shifter fork?
Rtv900 will not move forward or back
Accumulator questions
Hey All
New here and have a couple questions to anyone who can offer insight on small bale accumulators.
What would your preference be? Bales stacked flat or on edge? I am probably leaning toward a Kuhns. Originally was looking at the 15 bale on edge option, but now leaning toward the 10 bale flat version. This came after watching YouTube videos by DLH Farms (which are very good BTW, I recommend them highly). I really like the way the bales stacked on the trailers for transport when flat.
I have always been told that bales store better on edge. But do not intend to store longer than a few months before being sold.
Any opinions either way are appreciated.
Accumulator questions
Need opinions on Teff
Need opinions on Teff
John Deere 854/ 864 Baler
Has anyone on here owned or operated a JD 854 or 864 round baler?
I've been running JD balers so am familiar with them, there is a couple of 864 that have come up for sale with reasonably low bale count.
Can't find too many reviews etc on them.
Regards,
Dan
John Deere 854/ 864 Baler
489 haybine knives get above guards
dimanche 26 mai 2019
I hope someone on here is still able to remember the 489. I made friends with this 489 several years ago and we seem to get along well but from time to time a knife will get above the guards and not in the same place.I have always blamed rocks or other debris for this problem. Today I was cutting heavy beardless wheat in 6th gear on a 5600 ford about 550 pto rpm and she did it again but this time there was nothing any where near the knives but wheat. I have a factory service manual but no operators manual and the service manual has nothing on the sickel bar, guards, or hold downs, in the manual. So I really have no idea what should be a standard set up. I do think that the hold downs or guides if you will or the placement there of is the problem. Thanks in advance.
489 haybine knives get above guards
PZ Zweeger CM 210 lift??
I recently bought a Zweeger 210. When in mowing mode when I raise it up the outer front lip of the drum drags on the ground. Making me crazy! anyone know what to do??
PZ Zweeger CM 210 lift??
Roll belt 450 ss question
Roll belt 450 ss question
Link covers similarity of Willys and Roxor
Good to know stuff ! Title should say old jeep and not just Willys https://jalopnik.com/heres-how-simil...eep-1823474555 There's good pictures too . bordercollie
Link covers similarity of Willys and Roxor
bale wrap core
Just wondering what to do with the core from the bale wrap? It seems like it could be used for something, but I don't know what. What do other people use them for? I hate to just throw them away!
bale wrap core
Hay size is wrong
Hay size is wrong
Laredo forage beans
Laredo forage beans
round baler electronics
It only has 2 wires, a positive and neg. How can I tell which is which.
The two wires are the red and gray/black coming in from the black round thing at the top of the picture.
One goes to a fuse and the other to the on off switch. which is the positive and which is the neg?
Attached Thumbnails
round baler electronics
Vermeer tm850 gear box issue
samedi 25 mai 2019
Vermeer tm850 gear box issue
504 Super I - Hay getting in front of belts
This is my 2nd year using a Vermeer 504 Super I. I only rolled a small field with it last year and I noticed hay getting in front of the belts so, upon suggestions I have replaced the pickup teeth and recharged the bale density system. I rolled 82 rolls over the last two days with a few problems.
A ball of twine got mucked up and had to be replaced and about 1/2 dozen bales only tied one string. Its my hay and its going in the barn so not a big deal.
Three bales in a row the tailgate cracked open and alarmed and I had to dump the hay and roll it back out. Still not sure what may have been going on and hoping to get suggestions.
The 2nd field I rolled was thinner and dry. Hay was accumulating in front of the belts pretty bad and I had to stop several times to clear it. It was jamming at the top of the baler and I was afraid it would rub against the belts and catch fire. Are there any other corrections I can do the help this?
I don't know if this is a problem but I notice that nearly every time I open the tailgate, about 1/2 way up there is a whistle like hyd. fluid being restricted. Is this normal or is there something I should adjust?
Today I was doing maintenance on the baler and when I turned on the PTO everything was turning except the belts. As soon as I opened the tailgate they started spinning. Will adjusting the tension springs on each side help this?
Thanks for the help.
504 Super I - Hay getting in front of belts
Memorial Day
Memorial Day ..Let us take time to remember those soldiers who gave their lives so we could be free. Some never came home.Some were still teenagers, some were sons,daughters some were fathers and mothers, other family members. God bless them all. Most of us have known one of them- our fallen heroes. Remember them and tell the younger generation that it's not just a fun day but a day of remembrance. bordercollie
Memorial Day
16' Seeder
Thought I'd share. Should get more pictures next time it dries out enough to seed again.
Attached Thumbnails
16' Seeder
New holland 450 utility baler
vendredi 24 mai 2019
New holland 450 utility baler
Nh 474 conditioner roll
New member here, I bought a 474 haybine last fall and while adjusting things for this springs haying (wishful thinking apparently) I noticed the roll pressure adjustment doesn't appear to be working properly.
When you loosen the roll pressure the crank the threaded rod it's on extends up and when you try to tighten them the crank goes down until it bottoms out . When you look underneath there's still threads
showing. Just wondering if perhaps the pivots are rusted solid or something.
I have the shop manual if I need to remove the assembly.
Thanks in advance.
.
Nh 474 conditioner roll
nuther set of tires
well i like the ITP Bajacross so much i decided to put a set on the other RTV. this time i went with 25-10-12 on the 07 1100CW.:gotsmoney::tiphat:
nuther set of tires
NH 658 knife dropping early
Hi, I'm new to posting on Hay Talk, but have used the forums as a resource for years. I recently picked up a New Holland 658 at an auction. Trying to get her up and going, picks up the hay well and starts the bale as it should, but at about 45" or so, the knife drops down (set to net wrap at 60"). So once the bale reaches full size the actuator will not fully extend, and wrapping does not start. If I manually pull up the knife, the bale will wrap, but the knife does not fall and cut the wrap. I have to release the bale, cut the wrap with a pocket knife, reset everything and go again. Any thoughts to what the problem may be? It has done this every time so far. I am much more familiar with the JD wrapping system (JD 458 & 459), so the NH system is a bit new to me, not sure where to start. Thanks for the help.
NH 658 knife dropping early
sickle bar mower?
This is my first year baling my hay myself. I am on a budget so I bought a sickle bar to mow with. The problem I am having is it mows great in one direction but when I get to the end of the row and go around to the other side it goes terrible. What am I doing wrong? The one direction I can't do anything wrong, just the opposite the other direction. do you have to slow down, speed up? Does it have something to do with the prevailing wind direction during the growing season? I am mowing across a slight hill. Not more than 5 feet or so difference. I mow in this direction because the field is longer than it is wide. Any suggestions? Mower is a ford 501
sickle bar mower?
Hesston 5580
jeudi 23 mai 2019
Hesston 5580
dead battery now will not start
RTV 900 2013. Replaced dead battery now nothing works horn, lights gauges, appears completely dead, except my work lights that are connected directly to the battery now work fine. i checked the 2 big fuses and they look ok. Any suggestions? Checked battery terminals and they are about 12.2 volts. Charged the new battery and it is 100%.
dead battery now will not start
Anyone lambing in hoop barns?
Anyone lambing in hoop barns?
YM-240 Transmission/Hydraulic Fluid Recommendation?
Curious to know what trans fluid is recommended and where the most economical place to get it might be? The manual calls for 4 gallons of John Deere 303 or "Hy-Grad" which seems to be a typo in the manual? I'm seeing "Hy-Gard" all over the internet but I read an article about the dangers of 303?:
https://www.tractorlife.com/2018/06/...raulic-fluids/
I don't want to go so cheap as to cause any problems with components but don't feel I need top-of-the line stuff either. Are there other brands that meet specs you guys might recommend?
Thanks in advance!
https://www.tractorlife.com/2018/06/...raulic-fluids/
I don't want to go so cheap as to cause any problems with components but don't feel I need top-of-the line stuff either. Are there other brands that meet specs you guys might recommend?
Thanks in advance!
YM-240 Transmission/Hydraulic Fluid Recommendation?
RTV1140 Hour Meter
Hey Everyone. We just bought a 2013 1140CPX. The hour meter stays on all the time, but when the key is turned on, the number 8111.5 displays for about half a second, then goes back to the hours. The online manual I found says nothing about it. Anybody know what that means?
RTV1140 Hour Meter
CJ-4 Oil NOT to be used in RTV...??
I haven't looked to see what is sold in all the stores in my area but I was surprised to read in the WSM for the RTV-X900/RTV-X1140 on page G-11 where it states: "The CJ-4 Engine Oil is intended for DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) type engines and cannot be used in this vehicle."
On page G-8 it specifies under "Engine Oil: CF or higher".
The Chevron Delo-400 15W40 oil I used for the last oil change is "CK-4" and states on the container "Meets requirements for CJ-4 and prior" (words to that effect).
The service classifications of oil descend thru the alphabet has been my understanding and that subsequent classifications always met prior requirements. So I am wondering if anyone else is noticing what is available locally.... and what they are using in their equipment. (or is anyone paying attention to this at all.)
(I have also been using the CK4 in my M4700 tractor which is a non DPF engine, in fact it's a non-emissions engine made in 1996. It's Owners Manual specifies oil meeting CC or CD.)
Edit: Continuing thought on this at 3 AM leads me to wonder if I shouldn't just go to bed and get some sleep. I wonder if that warning against CJ-4 oil is perhaps only for engines which have EGR, as the page G-11 chart also addresses "with or without external EGR" and states that engines with external EGR cannot use CF-4, CG-4 or CH-4 oils but that they can use CF or Cl-4.
Still, the warning against using CJ-4 "in this engine" seems odd.
On page G-8 it specifies under "Engine Oil: CF or higher".
The Chevron Delo-400 15W40 oil I used for the last oil change is "CK-4" and states on the container "Meets requirements for CJ-4 and prior" (words to that effect).
The service classifications of oil descend thru the alphabet has been my understanding and that subsequent classifications always met prior requirements. So I am wondering if anyone else is noticing what is available locally.... and what they are using in their equipment. (or is anyone paying attention to this at all.)
(I have also been using the CK4 in my M4700 tractor which is a non DPF engine, in fact it's a non-emissions engine made in 1996. It's Owners Manual specifies oil meeting CC or CD.)
Edit: Continuing thought on this at 3 AM leads me to wonder if I shouldn't just go to bed and get some sleep. I wonder if that warning against CJ-4 oil is perhaps only for engines which have EGR, as the page G-11 chart also addresses "with or without external EGR" and states that engines with external EGR cannot use CF-4, CG-4 or CH-4 oils but that they can use CF or Cl-4.
Still, the warning against using CJ-4 "in this engine" seems odd.
CJ-4 Oil NOT to be used in RTV...??
Be careful out there.
mercredi 22 mai 2019
Wow. Hopefully the operator is okay. Maybe messy draws though. :eek:
Be careful out there.
Bought a WSM online...
OK, just thought I'd run this by the group:
I went to ebarf and found a WSM for my RTV-X900 for sale at $15. The description specified "Condition: Brand New: A new, unread, unused book in perfect condition with no missing or damaged pages."
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kubota-RTV-...72.m2748.l2649
I ordered and paid via PayPal. It arrived. It's not a book. It's a pirated CD. AND it's not even for a X900... it's coverpage says X900 but each and every page is actually for the older 900.
I made a "return request" via ebay protocol describing the problem and the seller immediately issued a refund, not requiring return.
I go back to ebarf looking for the genuine article again and found:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kubota-RTV-...72.m2749.l2649
The description stated: "Condition:
New: A brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaging (where packaging is applicable). Packaging should be the same as what is found in a retail store, …"
I realized it was being offered cheap, but lots of stuff on ebarf is... after all , it IS an AUCTION SITE! And the picture in the AD is of a BOOK, an actual Kubota WSM Manual!
When it arrived it was also a Pirated CD. I requested another return and got the following from the seller:
"The Kubota is the exact manual as the picture. The picture denotes the paper copy while the CD contains the FULL mechanical copy. You're so called "pirated" copy is the full manual in CD form saving you about $55.00 for a lousy $9.95 for the sole purpose of attracting business sales. The description of the add is very clear as to the contents of the manual, such as MANUAL ON CD!!!!. IT'S NOT MY FAULT THAT YOU DON'T READ THE ADD!!!I I will gladly accept you're manual provided it's returned in perfect working condition and that the security file has NOT been accessed indicating that the CD has been uploaded onto your computer which will constitute a gross misdemeanor. I will return the full cost of the manual, less the cost of the postage. If you comply with the abovementioned stipulations, I will be more than glad to return the CD less postage. Good Luck! Andrew Lopatowski Jr. Esq. Attorney At Law P69234 "
I suppose he thinks his lawyerly signature is supposed to frighten me. I don't know how Kubota will feel when they receive the pirated CD of their Copyrighted WSM.
I have no idea what a "gross misdemeanor" is. I especially don't know why it would be any kind of misdemeanor to examine it since I had actually paid for it. I hope it's not a capital offense.
I'll have to ask my NYC Prosecutor daughter.
What do you guys think?
I went to ebarf and found a WSM for my RTV-X900 for sale at $15. The description specified "Condition: Brand New: A new, unread, unused book in perfect condition with no missing or damaged pages."
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kubota-RTV-...72.m2748.l2649
I ordered and paid via PayPal. It arrived. It's not a book. It's a pirated CD. AND it's not even for a X900... it's coverpage says X900 but each and every page is actually for the older 900.
I made a "return request" via ebay protocol describing the problem and the seller immediately issued a refund, not requiring return.
I go back to ebarf looking for the genuine article again and found:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kubota-RTV-...72.m2749.l2649
The description stated: "Condition:
New: A brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaging (where packaging is applicable). Packaging should be the same as what is found in a retail store, …"
I realized it was being offered cheap, but lots of stuff on ebarf is... after all , it IS an AUCTION SITE! And the picture in the AD is of a BOOK, an actual Kubota WSM Manual!
When it arrived it was also a Pirated CD. I requested another return and got the following from the seller:
"The Kubota is the exact manual as the picture. The picture denotes the paper copy while the CD contains the FULL mechanical copy. You're so called "pirated" copy is the full manual in CD form saving you about $55.00 for a lousy $9.95 for the sole purpose of attracting business sales. The description of the add is very clear as to the contents of the manual, such as MANUAL ON CD!!!!. IT'S NOT MY FAULT THAT YOU DON'T READ THE ADD!!!I I will gladly accept you're manual provided it's returned in perfect working condition and that the security file has NOT been accessed indicating that the CD has been uploaded onto your computer which will constitute a gross misdemeanor. I will return the full cost of the manual, less the cost of the postage. If you comply with the abovementioned stipulations, I will be more than glad to return the CD less postage. Good Luck! Andrew Lopatowski Jr. Esq. Attorney At Law P69234 "
I suppose he thinks his lawyerly signature is supposed to frighten me. I don't know how Kubota will feel when they receive the pirated CD of their Copyrighted WSM.
I have no idea what a "gross misdemeanor" is. I especially don't know why it would be any kind of misdemeanor to examine it since I had actually paid for it. I hope it's not a capital offense.
I'll have to ask my NYC Prosecutor daughter.
What do you guys think?
Bought a WSM online...
CK25 engine problem
mardi 21 mai 2019
I have a CK25 with 800 hours on the engine. I changed the oil today, and when I removed the drain plug from the left side, 3 pieces of metal dropped out. Once I got them cleaned up I could see they were gear teeth that had broken off. The engine starts and runs perfectly. The teeth are very shiny, like they are chrome plated. Each one is about 1/2 inch long and 1/8 inch tall.
Can anyone point me to which gear these may be from so I have a place to start looking?
Also, can anyone point me to an engine repair manual?
Thank you,
Jason
Can anyone point me to which gear these may be from so I have a place to start looking?
Also, can anyone point me to an engine repair manual?
Thank you,
Jason
CK25 engine problem
Kr250b
I have a kr250b and I need to know when it is full.The lights are supposed to come on and let me know but they don't.
Kr250b
Maturity differences Alfalfa and OG in same stand
I had a devil of a time with my mix alfalfa and OG stand last year. But this year, things are looking up. I think that perhaps the incredibly wet year we had immediately after I planted just didn't allow it to do well. Regardless, this spring, things are looking up.
This is the first time where I had a mix stand where both were doing well. Last year, the alfalfa was poor, but still better than the OG. So timing cutting based on alfalfa maturity bloom was not an issue. However, this year, both are doing well, but I see the OG has matured and headed out, but there isn't a bloom on the alfalfa at all. Alfalfa is about high thigh and OG is well over waist high to my 6'2".
Given, I've never had a 'good' mix stand of alfalfa/OG mix, I've never had to decide when the 'optimal' time to cut a mixed stand should be.
How do you go about deciding when to cut a mixed stand when maturity levels are decidedly different such as in my case?
Maturity differences Alfalfa and OG in same stand
Hesston Belt Question(s)
lundi 20 mai 2019
My Hesston 946 silage special has 10500 +/- bales on the original "rough top" belts, though they are pretty smooth now. I've been experiencing increasing difficulty starting a bale in both high moisture and dry baling conditions. Flaps have been removed from the starting roll and replaced with the factory silage bars along with the scraper or knife used to skive the roll. Knife is set at about 0.020" which is closer than factory specs.
Hay will enter the bale chamber, ascend toward the top of the chamber, but has increasing difficulty beginning to tumble, turn, roll, etc. The stuffer tries to force more material into the chamber, but since the wad of hay isn't turning, the pin clutch that drives the pickup and the stuffer then begins to slip, hay starts to back feed over the starting roll, roll tries to wrap, things get ugly quickly. Today, trying to bale some high moisture rye, the pin clutch finally began slipping almost constantly and the baler pretty well quit feeding.
So now to my question(s): are my problems belt-related? are they too slick to grab the material and start the bale turning? I've tried starting the bale at rated rpm, half throttle, slipping the tractor clutch and giving it a tiny bit at a time, and letting out on the clutch like I know it's gonna start. Results are much the same.
Next question: If new belts are needed, oem or aftermarket? Aftermarkets like us baler belts, hay tools, usa belting, etc advertise oem quality, however, the belt style offered for my 946 is either a diamond top or chevron style, rather than the rough top that the baler originally had. It makes sense that the more aggressive style of the diamond top or chevron might actually gain better results in my particular situation, but I wanted other opinions.
If I've missed a detail, feel free to ask questions.
Thanks
Hesston Belt Question(s)
Bale baron
Bale baron
nurse tank setup
Bought a 500 gallon tank on trailer setting up as transport or nurse tank. My issue is there was no discharge hose from valve to trank being loaded. On nurse tanks I have used before they used a 2 inch suction hose for the discharge hose. Twenty feet of that filled is heavy to handle but works well. Was looking at the discharge hose that collapses flat when pressure is cut off. Have never used that type of hose and wonder how well it would work. Will the hose collapse when pressure is off draining back into the tank or will it need help to push the fluid from the hose back into the tank?
nurse tank setup
Bale Command Plus Buzzer
I have a NH 654 Round baler with Bale Command Plus and the alarm buzzer isn't working properly. It will start out not working and then after a while it will start working and then stop working again or it can be vice versa. The other functions including the alarm light are working fine. Does anybody have an idea what the issue might be or how diffecult it might be to relpace the buzzer. NH doesn't seem to have a schematic online for the head unit itself.
Thanks,
Doug J.
Bale Command Plus Buzzer
Wide and Thin Kit
Howdy, this is my first post, but it's a topic I find little to no information on, and it leaves me stumped. I have a New Holland disc cutter and I installed the wide and thin kit on it the mid part of last year trying to get every advantage I could with weather last year. I unfortunately don't have a tedder and the owner of the farm I manage refuses to purchase one so this was my solution. Unfortunately I found it gave me no advantage and if anything it hurt me as it likes to clump up and make slugs of wet hay that I can't rake out. I went as far as I cut the post off my cutter for the rear shield figuring if the need arose I could always weld them back and with no luck of fixing my issue. Unfortunately nothing I tried would fix my issue, I'm most likely going to pull the kit off and go back to cutting with the gate completely up and getting 80% spread as I really can't afford to deal with a poor performing cutting with this cool spring. If anyone has any idea's or has dealt with this issue id greatly appreciate it, Thanks Mike
Wide and Thin Kit
848 airbags
Went out for the first time this year with the 848 and within 30 minutes I had lost all the air out of the bags so I hustled in ,refilled the air and before I could roll the last 2 bales, I had lost the air pressure again. Now it has sit at the shop for 2 days and still holding air. Where do I start looking?
848 airbags
What Can I Plant Without Incorporating The Seed?
I'm farming a field which NEVER dries - it hasnt been dry enough for tillage once all year, best that I can tell. We went 2-3 weeks without rain and it still had standing water on it, so doing any sort of tillage work here or incorporating of seed is out of the question. It does, however get dry enough to mow, I've already baled it this week. Anyway, I think its really good ground - but theres just some loose mixed grass growing there right now. I'd like to plant sudangrass, but I'm not sure what the chances of it establishing would be, without incorporating it into the soil. Anyone have any ideas, or know of anything else that I might plant?
What Can I Plant Without Incorporating The Seed?
milkweed spot spraying control
Every year it seems like we have a milkweed control thread come up. I was spot spraying with 1/2 tsp Chaparral and 2 ou of Grazon in 4 gal backpack with surfactant and got smokin control on millkweed. Just accidentally found out. That works on just about anything else and I just sprayed the milkweed for kicks and grins but not expecting anything. worked just like grazon on horse nettle.
milkweed spot spraying control
Raking for Baleage
Are you guys raking for baleage? I have been raking, was talking with another local, he says he swaths it down and bales behind the mower. Saves a pass over the field plus less equipment to chase. Wondering what others are doing?
Raking for Baleage
Quack Grass Control in Orchard Grass
dimanche 19 mai 2019
Have a good thick stand of orchard grass a couple year old that is starting to get invaded by quack grass. Is there any way to control or even suppress the quack grass (Pursuit maybe?) or should I just plan on taking the stand out this fall and rotating to alfalfa?
Quack Grass Control in Orchard Grass
Timothy Leaf vs Stem vs OG and Fescue
Same this year.
Just looking at some volunteer OG and fescue, I kind of think the Timothy has more leaf???
Is this what you see?
Just curious.
Thanks!
Bill
ps - pics are Clair Timothy.
Timothy Leaf vs Stem vs OG and Fescue
PNW hay prices are nuts
I was in western Oregon picking up some baler parts and the farmer I bought from mentioned he was getting $240/T for grass hay. Yes, some horse folks but some small cattle people too. And, he has irrigation so gets a couple or 3 cuttings. Dang. I bet that's almost 2x what I can pull out of folks around here. It would help if I had some storage to hang onto the hay rather than selling off the field. Lots of competition/low balling when hay is on the ground.
I guess $240/T would be around $6/bale at 50# bales ....hmm.
PNW hay prices are nuts
New Holland RB450 twine issue
HI all...first time poster although I have been lurking here for some time. Lots of good information and it is appreciated.
My dilemma is with my RB450 baler. It is first year model and is twine only. It does not support twine tuck due to hardware and software config per my dealer. I had asked about a retrofit for this feature and found out it was not a good idea.
The issue is with most bales that are ejected is I will have loose twine on the last strand of after it is cut. Major pain in the butt taking care of loose ends prior to loading. The other strands are good and tight...not issue with loose bales. I am about out of ideas.
Things I have done:
Adjusted twine tension
Changed number of edge wraps
Changed distance from edge of bale of the twine
Changed twine types and brands
The twine knives are sharp and I am not seeing any fraying outside of normal. Bale pressure also has been adjusted. I upped it from 1800 to 2000.
I certainly expect some bales to have issues like this but it is about 8 out of 10 bales.
I have not experimented with any custom tie patterns as of yet.
Anyone have this issue that has solved it.
New Holland RB450 twine issue
Vermeer 605L
samedi 18 mai 2019
Vermeer 605L
Good horse hay ..after rain???
I am just looking for practical experience. All my hay is used by me for my horses, or sold to others for horse hay. There is a strong belief among horse buyers that hay that has ever been rained on is useless as horse hay. I am a little in the middle, thinking that a little rain does not automatically turn hay into garbage, if it is properly re-dried and baled after rain to minimize mold and dust. Mold and dust are a result of damp hay in the bale. But, can hay be re-dried enough to bale without mold/dust problems? I know there are nutritional losses and DM losses from rain, but can mold and dust be minimized after a dampening.???
Good horse hay ..after rain???
How screwed am I?
Attached Thumbnails
How screwed am I?
First Time Baling - Probably Too Wet
vendredi 17 mai 2019
First time baling round bales, it's been a terribly wet spring here in NE Texas, wanted to test out my equipment on a small test pasture before getting into my main first cutting on bigger fields. Tuesday the weather was clear and in the low 80's, ground was sort-of dry, so I cut this grass Tuesday afternoon 5/14 with my Kuhn GMD 600 disc mower. It's an old mid 90's mower and the tarp is shot but otherwise it's a good machine.
I let the grass it sit all day Wednesday 5/15 and then on Thursday 5/16 I hit it with my hay rakes. This was my first time running them in tandem like this. Weather was clear and sunny and in the mid 80's these two days.
Today, Friday 5/17 it was cloudy and humid all morning but by 1:00 the sun finally came out and temps got into the high 80s. My windrows still had a slight touch of dampness but the forecast calls for severe weather tomorrow (Saturday) so I went ahead rolled them up with my John Deere 466 round baler that I acquired this past winter. I set the bale monitor at 60 inches since I'm running the baler with only a 75hp tractor. The tractor ran great but I thought a full 72 inch bale might be a little much for it. When I went to put the hay forks into the bales I could hardly get them in they are so tight and HEAVY. I;'ve handled a lot of round bales with this tractor and these 4x5's are some of the heaviest I've seen, which has me concerned. The surface of the bales felt slightly damp and I think I baled them too wet. Surely they had plenty of time to dry, but the humidity this morning was probably too high for baling today. I ended up with 7 bales and I spaced them outside about 6 feet apart from one another to let them breath. At the end of the day my test was successful, all my equipment ran great, I learned a lot, I just hope I don't have any hay fires as a result.
First Time Baling - Probably Too Wet
Are JD Balers Worth The Cost Difference?
I'm not trying to start a flame war, but I am in the market for a new baler. I could get a JD 450M for $37k or a Vermeer 504R Signature for $31k. I've never had a baler from either brand.
I want the longest lasting, with fewest repairs baler that I can buy. This comes before everything else, like features, etc. Is there an argument for the JD being worth the premium price? Does anyone know if there would be a difference between the two balers in how long things like bearings or belts would last?
Does anyone know if the life expectancy between the two would be much different? Thanks in advance.
Are JD Balers Worth The Cost Difference?
Overheating Possibility
When I got my new-to-me 2015 X900 home I found a puddle of antifreeze under it directly beneath the drivers seat. It was a loose hose clamp where a rubber coolant hose connected to a metal tube.
Removed the clamp and caught the coolant in a pan, cleaned up the metal tubing light corrosions with a wire brush, cleaned the inside area where the hose mated and re-clamped it nice and tight.
Poured the drained coolant directly back into the radiator, not touching the reservoir which had about 3/4 full indication.
Let the wife try driving it and within a hundred yards it gave us overheat warnings. We turned around and returned to the house and shut 'er down.
Raising the hood I observed the reservoir to be empty.
Using a welder's glove I opened the radiatior cap and the radiator also appeared empty. ??? Made no sense... the same amount drained was returned... but now both the radiator tank AND the reservoir are empty?
I mixed up some 50/50 and serviced the radiator tank (took about a quart) and filled the reservoir (about another quart) and ran it …. everything has been operating normally ever since now, for about a month.... and the reservoir has remained full.
Today I was digging around and found HIDDEN (stuffed) within the left, rear ROPS, at the "box" just forward of the left cargo-release-lever a 3/8" rubber tube with a plastic-capped "vent" valve. It was not visible at all previously. The rubber line leads down beneath the cargo box to the thermostat housing on the top/front of the engine. Looking at the Messicks parts webpage... YEP! THA'R SHE BLOWS!... ref: A38000, item 70, "Air Bleeder Hose".
https://www.messicks.com/ku/90482
I'm reminded of the days when I was a Toyota Tech back in the early '70s. If the coolant was drained (even a little bit) the thermostat had to be "vented" before it was safe to run the engine. A "bubble" of air would be entrapped in the head and surrounding the thermostat. When the engine was started, the thermostat could not sense the coolant temperature because it was not submerged in coolant. Not until the engine was extremely over-heated would the internal steam of the hot coolant finally heat-soak the thermostat and (if lucky) it would open and allow coolant to flow through the engine.
If unlucky.... it'd be too late and the head gasket would blow … and the head may warp or crack.
Let my discovery be a heads-up to everyone... If you drain your coolant, be certain when refilling to have that breather hose valve OPEN to allow the air to escape the thermostat housing. After the radiatior, engine, and reservoir are all filled... THEN and ONLY THEN, close the breather hose valve.
Don't drive around until the engine has fully warmed up and stabilized, and the coolant level re-checked in order to avoid being away with an overheated RTV and no coolant or tools or gloves to deal with it.
(And for goodness sakes don't open a hot radiator cap willy-nilly or add cold coolant to a hot engine.) Hope this helps.
Removed the clamp and caught the coolant in a pan, cleaned up the metal tubing light corrosions with a wire brush, cleaned the inside area where the hose mated and re-clamped it nice and tight.
Poured the drained coolant directly back into the radiator, not touching the reservoir which had about 3/4 full indication.
Let the wife try driving it and within a hundred yards it gave us overheat warnings. We turned around and returned to the house and shut 'er down.
Raising the hood I observed the reservoir to be empty.
Using a welder's glove I opened the radiatior cap and the radiator also appeared empty. ??? Made no sense... the same amount drained was returned... but now both the radiator tank AND the reservoir are empty?
I mixed up some 50/50 and serviced the radiator tank (took about a quart) and filled the reservoir (about another quart) and ran it …. everything has been operating normally ever since now, for about a month.... and the reservoir has remained full.
Today I was digging around and found HIDDEN (stuffed) within the left, rear ROPS, at the "box" just forward of the left cargo-release-lever a 3/8" rubber tube with a plastic-capped "vent" valve. It was not visible at all previously. The rubber line leads down beneath the cargo box to the thermostat housing on the top/front of the engine. Looking at the Messicks parts webpage... YEP! THA'R SHE BLOWS!... ref: A38000, item 70, "Air Bleeder Hose".
https://www.messicks.com/ku/90482
I'm reminded of the days when I was a Toyota Tech back in the early '70s. If the coolant was drained (even a little bit) the thermostat had to be "vented" before it was safe to run the engine. A "bubble" of air would be entrapped in the head and surrounding the thermostat. When the engine was started, the thermostat could not sense the coolant temperature because it was not submerged in coolant. Not until the engine was extremely over-heated would the internal steam of the hot coolant finally heat-soak the thermostat and (if lucky) it would open and allow coolant to flow through the engine.
If unlucky.... it'd be too late and the head gasket would blow … and the head may warp or crack.
Let my discovery be a heads-up to everyone... If you drain your coolant, be certain when refilling to have that breather hose valve OPEN to allow the air to escape the thermostat housing. After the radiatior, engine, and reservoir are all filled... THEN and ONLY THEN, close the breather hose valve.
Don't drive around until the engine has fully warmed up and stabilized, and the coolant level re-checked in order to avoid being away with an overheated RTV and no coolant or tools or gloves to deal with it.
(And for goodness sakes don't open a hot radiator cap willy-nilly or add cold coolant to a hot engine.) Hope this helps.
Overheating Possibility
Japan Lifts Restricitions On U.S. Beef.
Farm Progress.
Regards, Mike
https://www.farmprogress.com/trade/japan-lifts-restrictions-us-beef-imports
Japan Lifts Restricitions On U.S. Beef.
It just doesn't pay to get up some days
It was one of those days yesterday. Needed drain plugs for the modules on my discbine. Called the NH parts dealer. Doesn't stock them. Argh. Figured I would get something else. Went to shop, turned on Air compressor. It had frozen an then the electric motor croaked. Still waiting on the coop to call back and address the streaking. Parts to fix the pump on the pressure washer did not arrive on the guaranteed delivery date. Went to town to buy a smaller cheaper air compressor, just could not bring myself to go with a Husky from Home Depot. Every store I went to thought I was from outer space when I asked for 1/4"-18 npt plugs. Came home empty handed and ordered the plugs from Messicks in PA who of course had 30 in stock. Then noticed a small spot of hydraulic oil on the shop floor from my less than 1000 hr JD6115M right in front of seat. Could not find the source, put my name in queue with the JD Dealer -at least 10 days to wait (Yup, that is my cutting and baling tractor) and we are supposed to have a weather window next week. Called it a day and went to watch grandson play a baseball game. Today, rags and a flashlight to see if I can locate and fix the leak myself.
Now if I had just stayed in bed and had a bourbon, I would not have experienced any of that trauma. 
It just doesn't pay to get up some days
Rain on freshly cut grass hay.
I cut my little 5 acre equipment checkout field last night at 5 pm. There was a 10% chance of rain in the forecast, but by 8pm that had turned into a 100% rain...maybe 1/2 inch. I have heard that rain on freshly cut hay does not do much damage. What is your experience? The forecast for the next several days is hot and windy.....but it is May....weather is always iffy.
Rain on freshly cut grass hay.
Round Bale Moisture
jeudi 16 mai 2019
Round Bale Moisture
windrow or not?
I have around 50 acres of oats cut and lying on the ground. We are expecting a couple of inches of rain over several days and the oats may or may not be ready to bale before the rain gets here. Around 30 acres were cut first and might be ready. Oats were cut and conditioned with a roller conditioner and are laying flat. Is it better to rake them into windrows prior to the rain or leave flat.
windrow or not?
Farm startup question
Good evening,
I currently farm about 20 acres of Orchard Grass and am basically running a one man operation. I have a large demand in my area for horse hay and have been selling it for the last 15 years or so. My question is to see if anyone else is in a similar situation and see what machinery they are using. My equipment list is as follows: JD 1219 mower, Unknown side delivery rake, NH 255 tedder/rake, NH 5060 baler w/ thrower, two kicker wagons. Like I said, I mainly do all the work myself, so I want to see what equipment others are using to get everything cut/baled/and stored faster, hopefully giving me the ability to increase my acreage.
Thanks in advance,
Patrick
Farm startup question
Vermeer 2800 mower/conditioner
Vermeer 2800 mower/conditioner
When is it too late to plant alfalfa in the spring?
Also I have been told there is a residual of ten days on 24d. I would hate to add the 24d to the Gly to get a better burndown but it’s so late that if there’s no rain then I don’t want to wait on the residual.
When is it too late to plant alfalfa in the spring?
This can happen to you too!
Was doing maintenance to my discbine yesterday, sharpening blades etc. Noticed a piece of baling tine so removed the turtle and presto- there was also a piece of wire, like a wire flag from a surveyor. Now I have only used blue poly twine for several years and never intentionally leave it in the field where there was a broken bale but I had twine on 3 of the 5 turtles I removed and checked. Really hard to understand the math- only recent use of poly, I clean up of field after each baling event and somehow it sucked it off the ground after sitting there a while. I think removal of turtles will be added to the annual maintenance routine.
This can happen to you too!
925 MoCo Parts Diagrams
mercredi 15 mai 2019
I recently purchased a 925 MoCo. I believe it is an early 2000's model with the flails versus the rollers. I'm trying to find a source online that shows the parts for the cutter bar, gearbox assemblies, and gears/belt wheels. I can probably go sweet talk my John Deere dealer for a few printouts. However, I'm really hoping there is a source online. Any recommendations?
Also, any expert advice for a novice MoCo user that is planning on using it for praire grass and brome? Many thanks!
925 MoCo Parts Diagrams
New calf
New calf
Small Square Bale Tips.
Progressive Forage Grower.
Regards, Mike
https://www.progressiveforage.com/forage-types/alfalfa/tips-for-making-better-small-square-bales
Small Square Bale Tips.
Krone Gearbox Oil?
I have a Krone EC3200 disc mower and was wondering what brand of 90W gear oil others are running in the cutterbar and gearbox. The manual does not make a specific recommendation other than 90W. Looking for good quality oil with price not much of a concern.
IFF
Krone Gearbox Oil?
MF 135 gas, need electrical
Have a 135 gas model. want to put all new gauges in but it has been cobbled. anybody have a wiring diagram? Thanks in advance.....
MF 135 gas, need electrical
Vermeer 605 Model E bearings - 2 bolt flange
I need help - I have an old 605 Model E that needs the 2 bolt flange bearings with 1.25" diameter shaft with eccentric locking collars. Bearing is sealed and Vermeer wants over $60 a piece. I would like to change both every time one goes bad. Please help with some replacement part numbers - I am having a hard time finding the cast two bolt flange with square carriage bolt holes. The old cast flange says FXW-19 and I believe was an old Fafnir bearing.
Vermeer 605 Model E bearings - 2 bolt flange
535 twine arms not moving.
New filter, new belt, did the bleeding procedure from the manual. Doing the procedure from the manual, raise door, lock hydraulics, put tension on belts, turn on pto... The arm with the idler pulley does move up and engage the belt.
Next thing I was thinking was to unbolt the hydraulic arm but leave the lines attached to see if it's seized up or of the arms are seized up. Anything else to look at?
535 twine arms not moving.
Clean Mixed Grass Square Bales of Hay...
I've got a couple of fields that have probably 15+ years of just growing, going to seed, getting mowed ultra late by the guy at the time who was renting the fields. There is a legacy bed of seed, primarily orchard grass and some fescue. I have killed off this field, planted timothy, but the legacy grasses just keep coming-in - which doesn't surprise me. It is overwhelmingly timothy, but each year the OG and fescue get a little more hold on the field. It cleans-up great with herbicide and makes very good hay. Customers seem to like it too - but while it's still 70-75% timothy, the timothy is on the decline.
There are only so many hours in the day...
I over seeded these fields a few years ago and it really helped fill-in and reinforce the timothy that was there to a goodly extent, I think this fall it's time to do it again or start over. The mix - other than the timothy, gives me potential for a second cutting.
I am leary of starting over with these two fields, I got burned one year by a drought on new fall seeding - this field is a good producer; I'd hate to make it worse and as I mentioned, there are only so many hours in a day.
I'm thinking about just overseeding every few years with timothy and having a dominate timothy stand with OG and some fescue mixed-in and sell it as such. Overseeding is minimal expense and I "think" will keep a good field going - just not 100% timothy - but very good clean hay.
Anyone raising/selling a very good/managed/clean - but mixed grass hay? How's that working out?
On another note (knock on wood), we haven't been bitten yet by the cereal rust mite in our timothy - I'm sure it's coming. How does a timothy mix play with the cereal rust mites? Are they looking for a pure stand or any timothy regardless of mix? Does the presence of OG and/or fescue deter the mites in any way?
Thoughts?
Thanks!
Bill
Clean Mixed Grass Square Bales of Hay...
Ted, Rake and Bale - Same Day???
Question - how many of you have to ted, rake and bale in the same day to get good dry hay in the bale?
Just curious.
Thanks!
Bill
Ted, Rake and Bale - Same Day???
Help needed asap
mardi 14 mai 2019
Attached Thumbnails
Help needed asap
Torture
Think I'll torture some seed. Put some plots in some godawful muck with everything out of wack and see what performs best. Might as well rivers over the banks and first cut will be very late as it is
Torture
shear bolts for a NH BC5060
I was wondering if anyone out there uses shear bolts other than the NH bolts.? . . I can find 10mm bolts but only grade 8.8 and 10. I don't want to wait days or pay for all the extra shipping for a hand full of proper shear bolts, so I was thinking of heating the grade 8 or ten bolts red hot and letting them cool slowly to take the temper out.In my mind that should make them a lot safer to use. I can find grade 5 in 3/8 but they are a little thinner. Anyone have ideas? .
shear bolts for a NH BC5060
shear bolts for a NH BC5060
I was wondering if anyone out there uses shear bolts other than the NH bolts.? . . I can find 10mm bolts but only grade 8.8 and 10. I don't want to wait days or pay for all the extra shipping for a hand full of proper shear bolts, so I was thinking of heating the grade 8 or ten bolts red hot and letting them cool slowly to take the temper out.In my mind that should make them a lot safer to use. I can find grade 5 in 3/8 but they are a little thinner. Anyone have ideas? .
shear bolts for a NH BC5060
Question for mike 10
Question for mike 10
Plan C?
My hay Plans A and B are taking a bath this year, so I'm trying to think of a Plan C.
I've considered a late planting of oats, sudan grass and annual rye grass. I'm trying to think of other alternatives that might work that would give me a mid-July/August and September cuttings. I'm thinking we might get dried out mid-summer.
Any ideas?
Ralph
Plan C?
Alfalfa/Clover Winter Kill Southern Indiana/Kentucky
Have any of you all in the Southern Indiana/Kentucky noticed a lot of winter kill this year? I was out scouting a few fields and one in particular it looks like all the alfalfa got nuked! One mixed red clover/orchard/timothy got smacked as well. Generally our clover is 16" tall and thick by now, its very sporadic at best.
Alfalfa in the field above is basically gone and nothing but weekds! Anyone else have this issue? We did have a wet wet wet winter in my opinion but i wasn't prepared for this.
Alfalfa/Clover Winter Kill Southern Indiana/Kentucky
Pipestone Sheep for Profit School
https://www.farmprogress.com/livestock/pipestone-lamb-and-wool-s-10th-sheep-profit-school-set-july?NL=FP-014&Issue=FP-014_20190513_FP-014_321&sfvc4enews=42&cl=article_2_b&utm_rid=CPG02000000741509&utm_campaign=38553&utm_medium=email&elq2=3763bf0f03c34493864fce091edd47a5
Pipestone Sheep for Profit School
Pipestone Sheep for Profit School
https://www.farmprogress.com/livestock/pipestone-lamb-and-wool-s-10th-sheep-profit-school-set-july?NL=FP-014&Issue=FP-014_20190513_FP-014_321&sfvc4enews=42&cl=article_2_b&utm_rid=CPG02000000741509&utm_campaign=38553&utm_medium=email&elq2=3763bf0f03c34493864fce091edd47a5
Pipestone Sheep for Profit School
2019 CS2610
lundi 13 mai 2019
There's a dealer front wheel field modification for this tractor.
Facebook Kioti forum has a tractor (6 hours) that the right front wheel assembly came off.
Facebook Kioti forum has a tractor (6 hours) that the right front wheel assembly came off.
2019 CS2610
Transporting Krone 710/26T
The arms themselves look like they are roll pinned into the cammed holders. Can Krone.1 of anyone tell me if I can just unbolt the 2 bolts holding the cam rollers in can I pull a couple arms off? I'm assuming it's not that easy. If not I'll just run it on the trailer the way it is and hug the shoulder!
Thanks
Transporting Krone 710/26T
'nother addition
Previous owner (or his son) had installed a Warn 4500-S winch and placed the switch adjacent to the LED Lightbar switch such that while operating the RTV it's very easy to hit the winch switch instead of the lightbar. This creates the potential to inadvertently stress the winch ever-tighter.
I first considered adding another switch to disable the system … but then realized all I had to do was disengage the clutch on the end of the winch to prevent it. Can't think of any problem with that. (The way I use the RTV so-far makes it difficult for me to believe I'll ever need a winch anyway.)
But it's also a great excuse to brag about my adding a winch-hook-stop-cushion that matches the Kubota instead of those common black ones, heh?
(Ain't Amazon Amazin'?)
I first considered adding another switch to disable the system … but then realized all I had to do was disengage the clutch on the end of the winch to prevent it. Can't think of any problem with that. (The way I use the RTV so-far makes it difficult for me to believe I'll ever need a winch anyway.)
But it's also a great excuse to brag about my adding a winch-hook-stop-cushion that matches the Kubota instead of those common black ones, heh?
(Ain't Amazon Amazin'?)
'nother addition
UREA had NO Impact?!
I'm in mid-Michigan, and finally after the fields dried out a bit I went down to the local co=op and asked for whatever fertilizer they'd recommend for my 100% pure orchard grass field. The field this year looked awful after winter, like maybe half the grass had died (it's only 2 years old). I had even overseeded last fall with more orchard grass to help fill in bare spots . . .
Anyway, I had only 10 acres dry so they gave me one ton of urea, or about 200lbs per acre. I applied with a spreader cart, and we received light rain that night and over thenext week maybe a bit over an inch.
The grass has been slightly light green prior to the urea, and I recall last year having a similar issue. I ran soil samples but they never seemed to have any plan for how to amend my soil to help my grass, and sold me a few rounds of sulfer last year thinking that was the issue. Last year we fertilized with "Black Label Gold" with zinc. I DID notice last year that areas with extra put down were much thicker and darker though . . .
Anyway, the problem is my boyfriend went out after a week and looked at the field and was upset because he didn't think the Urea was working . . . it seemed just as pale as before.
I honestly would rather do manure instead of chemicals, but BF has been reluctant to the idea. We do have cows, horses, chickens and dogs, so we had previously just been dumping it or pasture spreading.
I think the soil pH was about 6.5 and it's a heavy clay soil on a hilltop . . .
oh, and I'm not new but for whatever reason can't remember my log in info, hahaha
UREA had NO Impact?!
NH270 square baler breaks shear bolts
dimanche 12 mai 2019
Last year a purchased a NH 270 square baler. Very old of course, but in very good shape.
When I was using it, it worked quite well, without any additional set up, but the bales were super light. Like 30 lbs. I turned up the tension, and I got the bales to what felt like 50 or 55 lbs, but at that tension, I broke a shear bolt on the flywheel every time the knotter tripped. If I backed off the tension, it got better, but the bales are just too light. I would like to get 60 to 80 lb if I could.
I was baling an a 50/50 grass Alfalfa hay, and it was at 14-15 percent moisture. Using a 60 horse tractor. Trying for 70 strokes a minute and 16 flakes a bale.
I went through the baler and it seems all the timing settings are correct according to the manual. The only thing I noticed is that one of the aluminum fingers is broke off about halfway. It's the fingers on the bale chamber side that is broken.
Just wondering if anyone has suggestions as to the problem? I am assuming this baler had to be able to make heavier bales.
Thanks for the help!
NH270 square baler breaks shear bolts
MF/Hesston 2745 baler
Hello, I acquired a Massey/Hesston 2745 auto tie round baler w/net wrap. I cannot get the baler to work. It is almost as if the monitor is not reading the baler. I pulled the ECU fuse on the baler and I am getting 12.xx volts there so I know there is power to the ECU. I need help. If possible I can get someone out here that has experience with this baler and help me get it set up. Thanks, any help is appreciated.
MF/Hesston 2745 baler
Current Hay Inventories.
Good News. Progressive Forage Grower.
Regards, Mike
https://www.progressiveforage.com/news/industry-news/spring-u-s-hay-inventories-lower
Current Hay Inventories.
reset of needle yoke on BC5060
samedi 11 mai 2019
my latch came out so i replaced the shear pin. But I cant get the yoke to move so I can reset the protection latch. I don't see anything unusual. What would cause the yoke to freeze up. i can move the latch by hand of course it goes back to being out but no amount of pulling will reset the needles. any ideas? Thanks.
reset of needle yoke on BC5060
Roll belt 460 stationary roller
Roll belt 460 stationary roller
Bale Barron and Bale Bandit Capacity Question
What is the life expectancy of these machines?
Thanks,
Bill
Bale Barron and Bale Bandit Capacity Question
NH 7230 discbine conditioner rolls swap to B&D
vendredi 10 mai 2019
Thanks for the ideas.
The only advise I have gotten so far is to replace the bearings on all shafts as opposed to trying to save the old ones.
NH 7230 discbine conditioner rolls swap to B&D
Starting a bale
First year baling on my own, may never get to bale because of the rain, so probably overthinking. Previously neighbor and I shared equipment, my cutter, rake, his JD 467 baler. Sadly he passed away last year and so now I have purchased a hopefully gently used JD 457 with net wrap. I had mechanic (former JD employee) go thru baler, new bearings, chains, etc. where needed. Having read many of these posts, I have a couple of questions.
ONE. When bales were difficult to start, neighbor wanted me to leave pto speed at 540 and ride the clutch, till the bale started. I gritted my teeth and did like he said. It seems that it might be better to slow the pto speed and try to give the baler time to start the roll. I would appreciate your input. TWO. His baler had hydraulic lift on the pickup reel. I ran it all the way down and only picked it up to change fields. My baler has a manual pickup. I never really thought about where to run the teeth and the wheels. My baler has the mega wide pickup. Again I would appreciate your input.
Starting a bale
YM-240 Thermostart Issues
This is my first post after recently acquiring a Yanmar YM-240. Start-up seems difficult despite what appears to be sufficient fuel. Black smoke while cranking. I use the compression release and the weather is quite warm. I followed prescribed startup procedures from manual, full throttle then back off to approx 1500 rpm.
My thermostart was no good so replaced it. It barely drips fuel from the full reservoir and I can hear the plunger opening after heatup makes a gurgle noise and a drop comes out. I checked lines are clear to TS. I squirt fuel on it and ignites fine which brings up some concern on the paper air cleaner element being so close above the flame. Will start if I use a propane torch. Wondering if my compression is too low? How do I check? Maybe could use valve adjustments.
Thanks to one of the members here I obtained a manual but can't find the post now to give him credit. So grateful for that! To sum up my question here is maybe I got a bad replacement thermostart with faulty plunger? Is there a way to check it? My bad for going with the cheapest ebay counterfeit I'm guessing. But like I said, this thing should start without it.
My thermostart was no good so replaced it. It barely drips fuel from the full reservoir and I can hear the plunger opening after heatup makes a gurgle noise and a drop comes out. I checked lines are clear to TS. I squirt fuel on it and ignites fine which brings up some concern on the paper air cleaner element being so close above the flame. Will start if I use a propane torch. Wondering if my compression is too low? How do I check? Maybe could use valve adjustments.
Thanks to one of the members here I obtained a manual but can't find the post now to give him credit. So grateful for that! To sum up my question here is maybe I got a bad replacement thermostart with faulty plunger? Is there a way to check it? My bad for going with the cheapest ebay counterfeit I'm guessing. But like I said, this thing should start without it.
YM-240 Thermostart Issues
New Holland Inverter?
New Holland Inverter?
Shifting Just Got Easier
jeudi 9 mai 2019
In getting the RTV 900 xt ready to sale, I noticed that when I shifted out of neutral that it would squeak. So I decide to grease the shift mechanism. I tool put the loop pin ( cotter pin if straight) but these have a loop in them. Then I cautiously removed the large steel pin part of the way from the sleeve type bushing( see picture) and it was as dry as could be. I worked the grease all around and put it all back as before. I didn't want to take the big pin completely out because "what if I couldn't get it lined back up?" so played it safe. Then decided to do any of those little mechanisms that I could find. This same problem had prevented my locking diff from working properly (as reported in another thread.) Now with the shifter greased in about 3 places ,everything works so slick that I wished I'd done it sooner.
In the picture, it looks rusty under there but it's not. My camera was having a bad day ...and has bad days most of the time as color is usually off.. but haha what can you expect for 45 dollars ?
I had mentioned this a while back, but the bil's 4 wheeler had a brake dragging and it was a very similar problem in that the same type of bushing and metal rod releasing the brake pedal had gotten stiff - no grease so the dealer took it apart and cleaned and greased it like it should have been all along. While the RTV wasn't really stuck bad, it did really help to grease it.
collie
In the picture, it looks rusty under there but it's not. My camera was having a bad day ...and has bad days most of the time as color is usually off.. but haha what can you expect for 45 dollars ?
I had mentioned this a while back, but the bil's 4 wheeler had a brake dragging and it was a very similar problem in that the same type of bushing and metal rod releasing the brake pedal had gotten stiff - no grease so the dealer took it apart and cleaned and greased it like it should have been all along. While the RTV wasn't really stuck bad, it did really help to grease it.
collie
Shifting Just Got Easier
Tractor won't start
Yesterday I posted this:
Today I go out to the barn to get the tractor and do a little more bush hogging. Turn the key and nothing. Dash lights dim as if trying to start but no click and no turn of the engine. Lights come on and stay bright. No safety switches except the clutch has to be engaged and that appears to be working as it should. Battery is a year or two old and it came from Kubota. The original battery lasted 13 years without issue.
So I'm scratching my noggin and I'm at a loss. What the heck could be the issue? Any help with troubleshooting this would be appreciated. It's a Kubota Grand L 3010. 2002 model.
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Doc (Post 130985)
Yesterday was a good day.
I got plenty of seat time. Finally removed the blade from the PTO. Hooked up the tiller and tilled the garden. Late, I know, but it's been a muddy mess around here and the ground has finally set up where I can easily till. Then I hooked up the bush hog and got a couple hours of tearing up brush, multiflora, old tree, and vines, so many vines. Vines growing on dead trees, live tress, anything they can cling to. I love using the FEL with the teeth to tear down the vines, pull them back away from the tree and then run over them with the bush hog. Yeah, I am easily amused. But that is so satisfying to me. :D Anyone else getting seat time? |
So I'm scratching my noggin and I'm at a loss. What the heck could be the issue? Any help with troubleshooting this would be appreciated. It's a Kubota Grand L 3010. 2002 model.
Tractor won't start
Seat time therapy
Yesterday was a good day.
I got plenty of seat time. Finally removed the blade from the PTO. Hooked up the tiller and tilled the garden. Late, I know, but it's been a muddy mess around here and the ground has finally set up where I can easily till.
Then I hooked up the bush hog and got a couple hours of tearing up brush, multiflora, old tree, and vines, so many vines. Vines growing on dead trees, live tress, anything they can cling to. I love using the FEL with the teeth to tear down the vines, pull them back away from the tree and then run over them with the bush hog. Yeah, I am easily amused. But that is so satisfying to me. :D
Anyone else getting seat time?
I got plenty of seat time. Finally removed the blade from the PTO. Hooked up the tiller and tilled the garden. Late, I know, but it's been a muddy mess around here and the ground has finally set up where I can easily till.
Then I hooked up the bush hog and got a couple hours of tearing up brush, multiflora, old tree, and vines, so many vines. Vines growing on dead trees, live tress, anything they can cling to. I love using the FEL with the teeth to tear down the vines, pull them back away from the tree and then run over them with the bush hog. Yeah, I am easily amused. But that is so satisfying to me. :D
Anyone else getting seat time?
Seat time therapy
New tires
mercredi 8 mai 2019
We got our new tires in and installed today. STI Chicane 26x10x12. I’m hoping for a little more stability from these tires. Thank you Robin from Allterrainonline.com
New tires
Vermeer rebel 5420 and silage
Any one use their Rebel 5420 to roll silage hay ? With the rain that just won't stop, I cut 2.5 acres of Rye grass and rolled it the next day into 4x4 rolls, and had a neighbor wrap it as silage for me. The bales are super heavy, so wondering if I am doing harm to my baler by baling the hay wet ( heavy ). Can you use the Vermeer Rebel 5420 to do 4x4 rolls of hay for silage? Actually did pretty good I thought. I got 11 4x4 bales and 5-4x5 bales from the one cutting. I did let the 4x5's dry for another 3 days before baling.
Vermeer rebel 5420 and silage
Cute and Patriotic Chicken
Hard to believe but seeing is believing..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7EfLNFRG7M
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7EfLNFRG7M
Cute and Patriotic Chicken
Twine for round bales
What weight twine and how far apart on the wraps?
I will be selling all the hay.
I know net wrap would have been better but that put it out of budget.
Twine for round bales
575 baler manual ?
I had to replace the main shaft and all the bushings along with repairing cams and and other various moving parts... this thing was a mess from lack of grease... anyways now I need to put it back together.. I'm not afraid to purchase a manual by any means but have nothing? I searched NH parts and came up empty? Hmmmm....
575 baler manual ?
New Holland 560 duckbill/Bale Command question
mardi 7 mai 2019
I’ve been running one of my 560s myself this spring, so I’m getting some personal experience with the quirks of these machines. One thing that bugs me, when the BR balers had a net wrap hiccup that was detectable by the Bale Command, the Bale Command would automatically retract the duckbill. The big thing of course is when the roll of net wrap runs out. On the BRs the duckbill would automatically return to the home position. The 560s apparently don’t. It is a real nuisance to have to remember to manually retract the duckbill, plus one more thing for a rookie operator to fumble through. Is there a reason why the 560s are this way? Does the latest software version correct this? My balers don’t have the latest software version so far as I know.
New Holland 560 duckbill/Bale Command question
Great Pyrenees
Here's a neat pic. Puppy belongs to one of my son's friends. Amazing pic and even more amazing animals!
Great Pyrenees
NH 595 Big Square Baler
Anyone have experience with a NH 595 big square baler? Good Bad? We will only be doing about 500 bales a year of alfalfa and grass.
NH 595 Big Square Baler
Johnny-Come-Lately... but, HEY! I got here as fast as I could!
lundi 6 mai 2019
I've lived in the "country" for the last 30 years (about 40 miles West of Austin) having grown up in Hot/Humid/Flat Houston and escaped out of there 50 years ago.
My Dad kept me involved in Boy Scouts as a young man summer-camping near Wimberly, Tx at a place called "El Rancho Cima" and as I grew older also became a counselor there teaching aquatic merit badges and playing ranch-hand. It was a fantastic experience for a kid raised on pavement. I couldn't wait to find a way to live out here in the "Texas Hill Country".
I moved out here in '83 taking a job in Austin, but in '89 I moved out to ranch-country, finally able to live the way I always wanted as the result of cutting the chains of a marriage gone bad and becoming a single-Dad of an 8-yr old daughter who I wanted to raise in the country. It has turned out wonderfully, especially since I married my child-hood sweetheart daughter of my Dad's Best Friend whom I'd been raised with almost as a cousin.
God/Karma/Providence...whatever you believe in...has really shed some blessings on me.
...which brings me to the point: Finally reaching retirement and finding myself "comfortable" at least, if not wealthy,...I have recently purchased a Kubota M4700DT tractor to mow my grass runway with (I'm a retired general-aviation pilot) and the "orange fever" has infected me.
So... as I have become a wee-bit lazier... I have searched and found a used 2015 Kubota RTV-X900-G which an American Airlines mechanic purchased for his anticipated land-purchase that fell-thru. He subsequently developed health issues and decided to sell it, and although priced a bit on the "high side" … I became convinced it was a worthwhile endeavor.
I paid him $11,500 for it last month (April '19) because he said he'd spent a lot on it and needed his money back. (Warn 4500-S winch, LED lightbar, new ATV-tires, second-battery with dual-charging mod, Rhino-bed-liner, Windshield, Canopy) and it had only 250 hrs on it, and an extremely clean machine to look at, with no evidence of abuse. We met midway between us in Wacko-Texas (Waco) at my bank and I transferred the money to him and we parted. It was pouring down rain so I didn't get a chance to actually test-drive it or even to look it over as I should have... especially considering I'm an aviation maintenance "egs-spurt" (according to some of my peers... I teach an aircraft maintenance seminar every summer during a classic airplane convention and host a maintenance website-discussion-forums)… I.E.,.. I didn't follow my own advice to others regarding "pre-buy inspections" of previously-owned equipment.
I have found some issues... I've been able to address them here on my own (THANK YOU GUYS for this forum which has helped me IMMENSELY). Most have been things like discovering mis-adjusted relief-cable on the transmission and electrical wiring done incorrectly or sloppily on aftermarket add-
ons the airline mechanic's son did) and I've become very HAPPY, EXCITED, AND THRILLED (scripted quotes from Apollo 13 wives) over this little machine.
Yes, it's a little power-horse and it's a cute, rugged, comfortable and capable little machine that will serve me very well here on my private "little piece of the Promised Land" of Hill Country Texas!
I've even got a dog that adopted us after the neighboring rancher starved, beat, and kicked her until I found her one day creeping around stealing scraps of food from the deer, racoons, etc. we throw scraps out to off our back porch.
I blew kisses to her and coaxed her to come out from hiding and fed her. She didn't belong to us, but she lived under a rosemary bush in the front flower-bed for a year, but last winter when it got down to 17 degrees I couldn't stand it and let her into the house, where she surprised us when I pointed to the rug in front of the fireplace and she trotted over there, curled up and stayed all night long. She is an absolutely dependable INSIDE DOG..never made a mistake, and comes and bumps me with her nose to wake me up when she needs to go outside. She has become the owner of our hearts.
Now, 2 years later, she's over her shyness, and thinks everyone and everything is here just for HER ENJOYMENT.
What a sweet, gentle, and confident dog she has become. Never would have expected it out of the starving, beaten, shy, hopeless creature she was when we discovered her hiding under our back porch.
Thank you all for your help! Your humor! and your comments. George and Jamie... and Queenie! (now rules the place)
My Dad kept me involved in Boy Scouts as a young man summer-camping near Wimberly, Tx at a place called "El Rancho Cima" and as I grew older also became a counselor there teaching aquatic merit badges and playing ranch-hand. It was a fantastic experience for a kid raised on pavement. I couldn't wait to find a way to live out here in the "Texas Hill Country".
I moved out here in '83 taking a job in Austin, but in '89 I moved out to ranch-country, finally able to live the way I always wanted as the result of cutting the chains of a marriage gone bad and becoming a single-Dad of an 8-yr old daughter who I wanted to raise in the country. It has turned out wonderfully, especially since I married my child-hood sweetheart daughter of my Dad's Best Friend whom I'd been raised with almost as a cousin.
God/Karma/Providence...whatever you believe in...has really shed some blessings on me.
...which brings me to the point: Finally reaching retirement and finding myself "comfortable" at least, if not wealthy,...I have recently purchased a Kubota M4700DT tractor to mow my grass runway with (I'm a retired general-aviation pilot) and the "orange fever" has infected me.
So... as I have become a wee-bit lazier... I have searched and found a used 2015 Kubota RTV-X900-G which an American Airlines mechanic purchased for his anticipated land-purchase that fell-thru. He subsequently developed health issues and decided to sell it, and although priced a bit on the "high side" … I became convinced it was a worthwhile endeavor.
I paid him $11,500 for it last month (April '19) because he said he'd spent a lot on it and needed his money back. (Warn 4500-S winch, LED lightbar, new ATV-tires, second-battery with dual-charging mod, Rhino-bed-liner, Windshield, Canopy) and it had only 250 hrs on it, and an extremely clean machine to look at, with no evidence of abuse. We met midway between us in Wacko-Texas (Waco) at my bank and I transferred the money to him and we parted. It was pouring down rain so I didn't get a chance to actually test-drive it or even to look it over as I should have... especially considering I'm an aviation maintenance "egs-spurt" (according to some of my peers... I teach an aircraft maintenance seminar every summer during a classic airplane convention and host a maintenance website-discussion-forums)… I.E.,.. I didn't follow my own advice to others regarding "pre-buy inspections" of previously-owned equipment.
I have found some issues... I've been able to address them here on my own (THANK YOU GUYS for this forum which has helped me IMMENSELY). Most have been things like discovering mis-adjusted relief-cable on the transmission and electrical wiring done incorrectly or sloppily on aftermarket add-
ons the airline mechanic's son did) and I've become very HAPPY, EXCITED, AND THRILLED (scripted quotes from Apollo 13 wives) over this little machine.
Yes, it's a little power-horse and it's a cute, rugged, comfortable and capable little machine that will serve me very well here on my private "little piece of the Promised Land" of Hill Country Texas!
I've even got a dog that adopted us after the neighboring rancher starved, beat, and kicked her until I found her one day creeping around stealing scraps of food from the deer, racoons, etc. we throw scraps out to off our back porch.
I blew kisses to her and coaxed her to come out from hiding and fed her. She didn't belong to us, but she lived under a rosemary bush in the front flower-bed for a year, but last winter when it got down to 17 degrees I couldn't stand it and let her into the house, where she surprised us when I pointed to the rug in front of the fireplace and she trotted over there, curled up and stayed all night long. She is an absolutely dependable INSIDE DOG..never made a mistake, and comes and bumps me with her nose to wake me up when she needs to go outside. She has become the owner of our hearts.
Now, 2 years later, she's over her shyness, and thinks everyone and everything is here just for HER ENJOYMENT.
What a sweet, gentle, and confident dog she has become. Never would have expected it out of the starving, beaten, shy, hopeless creature she was when we discovered her hiding under our back porch.
Thank you all for your help! Your humor! and your comments. George and Jamie... and Queenie! (now rules the place)
Johnny-Come-Lately... but, HEY! I got here as fast as I could!
Nozzle Tips
Anybody out there using Teejet Turbo TwinJet Twin Flat Spray Tips? Opinions?
Nozzle Tips
Which type Conditioner
Which type Conditioner
John Deere 741 loader help
dimanche 5 mai 2019
Does anyone happen to have a JD 741 loader? The one I just picked up is missing the stands, and getting the loader off is one of the first orders of business. They look like they could relatively simple to build if I could get some dimensions. Deere is pretty fond of a new set 
.
John Deere 741 loader help
New Holland RB 460 pressure not releasing while dumping
Anybody have a problem with this? that seems to be what's happening with mine and another guy I know. the pressure is set on the monitor. I noticed this when the belts would start squealing and then it got where it would lock up the baler. any other suggestions to what might be causing this? have was dry and I kept lowering the pressure and size it didn't help. Thanks in advance. Mike 10 you catch any of this?
New Holland RB 460 pressure not releasing while dumping
e-RTV
Here's a thought, or maybe the start of a new rumor. I'd be the first in line for a new e-RTV 1100 equivalent! Give me something with 4 to 5 hours operating range and the comfort of the 1100. Electric over hydraulics with a PTO. Plug in at the barn at night. It's all I'd ever need. Any thoughts?
e-RTV
Kerosene Added to Diesel Fuel - NO!
I've read many posts where owners tell they've added kerosene to their diesel fuel in order to combat cold weather. This USED to be an alternative when Ultra Low Sulfur Fuel was available.
No longer.
Kubota specifically states that Kerosene is NOT TO BE ADDED to diesel fuel. If cold wx is causing fuel problems, Kubota states to use an anti-gel additive or to switch to No. 1 diesel fuel.
ALSO some reminders according to Kubota:
1-NO ether or starting fluid. EVER.
2-Ethylene Glycol anti-freeze is OK... NEVER Propylene.
3-Synthetic Oil use is OK... but DO NOT extend oil change periods.
4-Bio-diesel is ok but B5(5% max) for electronic injection and up to B20 for mechanical injection.
5-ULSD (Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel) is OK for all engines.
http://www.kubotaengine.com/support/faq-2
No longer.
Kubota specifically states that Kerosene is NOT TO BE ADDED to diesel fuel. If cold wx is causing fuel problems, Kubota states to use an anti-gel additive or to switch to No. 1 diesel fuel.
ALSO some reminders according to Kubota:
1-NO ether or starting fluid. EVER.
2-Ethylene Glycol anti-freeze is OK... NEVER Propylene.
3-Synthetic Oil use is OK... but DO NOT extend oil change periods.
4-Bio-diesel is ok but B5(5% max) for electronic injection and up to B20 for mechanical injection.
5-ULSD (Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel) is OK for all engines.
http://www.kubotaengine.com/support/faq-2
Kerosene Added to Diesel Fuel - NO!
Liquid nitrogen Rifle (Dicamba) on hay
samedi 4 mai 2019
Liquid nitrogen Rifle (Dicamba) on hay
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