New Holland HW320 Electrical Problems

I'm having problems with my HW320 swather. The machine worked just fine for 1st crop. Went to start it to cut 2nd and the battery was DEAD. Charged the battery and started the machine and found I have no display on the display panel and have lost all functions for raising and lowering the head, turning on the reel or knives. The display panel does illuminate. Any one had this problem? If so, Did you end up replacing the EIC? Looking for any information or guidance on this issue. Thanks in advance!

New Holland HW320 Electrical Problems

NH658 baler good and bad ??

Looking a NH658 twine only. One owner guessing around 5000 bales thru . Belts need sized . Are they good balers in tuff conditions. Will be baling dry grass hay only. Grass may get tall and stemmy like this year. Do they have trouble starting a bale ? Heavy windrows . I already have a baler that gives me fits in tuff conditions . Need good advice . Thanks for your reply rj

NH658 baler good and bad ??

Kubota ZD331 - Diesel - Bogs down in LOW grass

Hi guys, 
new to the forum and fairly new to Kubota Zero Turns.
I have a 2012 ZD331 zero turn diesel
2nd season I've used this to cut about 5 acres of grass on a rural property.

Recently, I've had an issue where the engine seems to bog down at slow speeds like its in deep grass, when its not. It seems like it wants to stall but usually doesn't.
It happened 8x in a 4 hour cutting session over the w/e.

This situation seems to almost stall the engine, however it seems to be the blades that are slowing down NOT the engine (if that makes sense).
If I disengage the blades that helps it to recover, however it seems from what I can tell from the engine, when I disengage the blades the engine rpm are still high....meaning the engine rpm were not bogged down, they are still humming right along
It seems to be at fairly slow speeds when the drive handles are slightly pushed in the forward position.
Pushing the handles forward does NOT change the bog down situation much....very slight. i can usually recover the blade speed if I pull back on the handles and/or disengage the blades for a few moments. then when I reengage
the blades I'm good and cut again.

Its very intermittent. It happens going up a hill or down a hill or on flat ground. I can not reproduce the symptoms at any time...its random. I've changed the air filter and both fuel filters.
I'm stumped.
Could it have something to do with a belt driving the blades slipping? is there a way to tell if belt is going bad and may be the culprit?
Is there a sensor on the handles that could be problematic?

I haven't had much luck on the internet regarding this issue and a ZD331.

Any help or direction is much appreciate.
Thanks!
JR

Kubota ZD331 - Diesel - Bogs down in LOW grass

Road Ditch Hay quality

https://extension.sdstate.edu/ditch-hay-harvesting-quality-and-feeding

Road Ditch Hay quality

435 John Deere Baler bale shape indicator

Having problems with the potentiometer or bale shape indicator. How or can you check it to see if its bad? Any help will be appreciated, these are very expensive.

 

Thanks Donny 

435 John Deere Baler bale shape indicator

Pin-On Loader to Skid Steer Adapter.

My next door neighbor bought a JD 55 series 4wd tractor with a 175 FEL. He is up in his years and does not go online. He is looking for a 4 pin-on Skid Steer adapter bracket. I found one at Titan Attachments but it is $1,025. It has to be special ordered due to it being an older tractor that is not stocked.  I see brackets for more current FEL that are from $350-$700, but they will not fit a 4 pin-on 175 loader. Anyone no for sure who carries these for a 175 JD loader other than Titan?

 

Regards, Mike

 

 

Pin-On Loader to Skid Steer Adapter.

JD 328 Auger

I would like to know the distance from the end of the auger to the wooden bushing inside.  I've read about people drilling a hole and installing a grease fitting for lubing the wood.  My auger is loud and I would like to lube the wood bushing.

JD 328 Auger

NH 650 autowrap

I saw a NH650 auto wrap baler for sale this morning and was wondering what HP tractor does it take to run it. Looks like an older roll baler I was wondering if our 3020 JD will run it. Thanks

NH 650 autowrap

Bolt-on bucket spear or chain-on bucket spear

Hi Folks...hope I'm in the right forum.  I just bought an old International tractor with a Great Bend (now Bush Hog) loader that has an older/different quick-attach configuration on the front end...not skid-steer style.  I've seen a couple of Bush Hog Quick-attach bale spears out on the web but the sale ads were all old.  That being said, I can't find a quick-attach bale spear for my Great Bend 440 loader and it appears I'm gonna have to go with a bucket-spear.  Question is, is the bolt-on style better or the chain/turnbuckle style better.

Thanks,

Mike

Bolt-on bucket spear or chain-on bucket spear

$800 RTV1100 w/ plow

Good morning. So I was able to score a 2009 RTV 1100 this weekend with a V-blade plow for $800. They stated that it hadn't run in a few years and currently doesn't run. I recovered it from their yard Saturday, brought it home. Stuck my BMW battery in it temporarily as existing batt. was toast, cranked and fuel leak at the hose at pump. Hose wasn't connected and spring clamp wasn't on properly. Installed hose with new hose clamp. Cracked each fuel line loose at pump, cranked til fuel, tightened and fired right up. Runs mint.

Basically all of my cables were seized so I put Kroil in each and was able to free up throttle & shifter. Rear brakes were stuck applied and was able to tap those linkages back, lubed and freed up but then my park brake cable got stuck when applied, now rear brakes stuck again. Tried tapping back but no luck. It's definitely a machine that was used, so I would like to fix it up.

Right off the bat, my right exterior door handle missing, both door weatherstripping junk, throttle speed, diff lock, park brake cable and/or brake mechanism seized, rear shocks blown & leaf spring bushings dry rotted.

Was able to drive it before brakes locked up again; low, medium, high & reverse all work. I was able to get up to aprx 22mph. It has the full glass cab with doors, v-blade hydraulic plow, brush guard, high mount intake. This is my first foray into a UTV so I feel like I got a good deal. Being able to use it to clear my property of snow alone is worth the $800. What good wider snowblower can be had for that price? I would love to restore it and get it back to its glory days.

Any thoughts, suggestions, ideas would be tremendously appreciated. Thank you guys!

https://youtu.be/LpfmwkWvxcQ

https://youtu.be/r8IYPp1l8k8

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$800 RTV1100 w/ plow

Hesston 5510 pickup

Hi, I am new to this forum as a poster but have found it very useful in the past for referencing a variety of items. Last year I switched from my ancient Hesston 5500 round baler to a slightly newer Hesston 5510. Since putting the 5510 to work I have noticed a significant increase the amount of hay that is left behind after making a pass over my windrow. I have dropped the table to its lowest setting and see that the tires are still a couple of inches away from the ground when they roll to the bottom and begin their sweep upwards. My Hesston dealer shows a different part number for the pickup teeth between the 5510 and the 5500 but when I asked them to measure the tine length the told me that the tine length was 6 5/8” for both tines. They are not familiar with either baler. Our local Vermeer dealer thinks the 5510 should have a longer tine. Does anyone know what the correct tine length is for a 5510 baler. The 5510 had straight tines when it came to me but no telling what previous owners did. The tines were badly worn so I used my inventory of 5500 tines to replace broken ones. Now that I need to buy new ones again I may as well get the right tine but what is it? All I know for sure is that the bent tines from my 5500 have not made the pickup any worse but also not better.

Hesston 5510 pickup

New SERVER should fix email issue and give us SSL

I want to thank all our members who have put up with lack of email notification that has been going on for over a year. Some members get the notification but many do not. This is due to my email server not being 'recognized' by google/gmail and other big email carriers. Part of the issue was my server was marked as a spammer and the other part was I could not afford SSL for this site or for the mail server.

I have looked and looked for an affordable way to fix this to no avail. So, I'm going to bite the bullet and commit to move to another server that offers everything we need but it costs twice the price of my current set up. If I wanna play, I gots to pay.

So, we most likely will experience an outage or two as I try to make this work. I will post a notice but if you are not online that day don't fret, we will be back as soon as possible.

We will be on a new IP address so it is imperative that you know how to flush your dns records so your browser will point you to the new IP where FF will be hosted. I have a lot of work to do before this happens but hoping sometime in the next week or two to move to the new environment.

To flush DNS on windows computers go to command prompt and type:
ipconfig /flushdns [and hit enter]

more info on this here: https://www.wikihow.com/Flush-DNS

Keep this info handy as when the site is not available you won't be able to see this post.

Be ready. Working with host admins now. We might be down for a day or two. Refresh your dns / flushdns to get to the new server the quickest once we are up.

Working with them I am not in control of when we drop off line. So this is the only notice you will see on this. It could happen tomorrow or ....later this week. Thanks for your patience.

Wish me Luck!!!!

New SERVER should fix email issue and give us SSL

Loose bales with new tractor

I didn't figure this out until it was time to move the bales.  Baler in question is a Vermeer Rebel 5420 kicking out little 4x5 bales.  I've run this baler for 5 years with either a 70 pto hp open station tractor (sold) or an 85 pto hp cab tractor.  The new tractor (cab) is smaller, but has all the bells and whistles.  The powershuttle is great for stopping and starting without having to use the clutch.  PTO HP is listed at 62.  Vermeer says you need 50hp to run the baler.  

 

Flat land, same fields I've always baled.  Same windrows, and baled at close to the same speed.  (5.5 mph)  Baler didn't have any issue picking up the hay at that speed, and the engine never slowed down like it was under a load or anything.  The new tractor does have the electric push / pull PTO engagement lever, where all my older ones have had the manual throw the lever forward to engage the PTO.

 

Bales that were done on the bigger tractor 8 weeks ago were tight like always.  These bales were so loose it was obvious because they sagged down close to level when you tilted the front end loader back.  You can easily reach your hand in and grab hay out of the bales with the new ones.  The 8 week old bales you have to fight to dig into it and get some out.  

 

I understand how to adjust bale density, but I'm thinking there's something going on with the new tractor that's causing this.  I wish I would have thought to check bale density when baling instead of just using the eyeball test.  Hydraulic pressure  and flow rating of the new tractor is actually better than the older ones.  I don't have a hydraulic gauge on the baler, but will probably add one just to watch.  I'm looking for other input or advice on what to check or how to test.  My first thought was maybe the PTO clutch was slipping, but since there were no issues picking up the hay even in the thicker parts, I'm leaning against that.  

 

I'll probably try running it a bit higher than 540 rpm next time and see if that helps.  If not, I'll switch back to the old tractor for a bit to confirm it's a tractor issue and not a baler issue.  I don't want to adjust the baler to compensate for a tractor problem if that's what it is.

Loose bales with new tractor

Case IH 564 wiring connector diagram

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the connectors?  Had a clump wrap my driveline and rip the pins out and break my wires.  I've got the wires spliced back together, but need to know where to slide the pins in correctly.  I know I can pull the other side apart, but really hoping to avoid that.  Thank you, Ty

Case IH 564 wiring connector diagram

Oliver 620 needle number

Hay guys I'm looking for a part number for a Oliver 620 baler needle. I'm thinking there is multiple balers that use the same needle. I just can't find a part number for one. I have look all over and was hoping someone here has an old parts book and could pass on the part numbers

Thanks in advance
Matt

Oliver 620 needle number

NH Baler Differences

What if any is the major differences between the 750A and 7070 round balers other than years of manufacture and styling.

NH Baler Differences

Challenger SB36 or MF 1840 stripper arm wear

How much wear is acceptable on the stripper arm?  I had a horrible first cutting with knotter issues.  Ended up using my old Hesston 4600 as the sb36 was leaving the knot on the billhook... see image here

 

I replaced the twine knives and baled 5 baled without issue.

 

I plan to disassemble the entire knotter and thru everything but don't want to do that until I have a good window.

 

The stripper arm has pretty good groves.. see image here  Assuming those are from twine and not built that way ...

 

I have a friend with a older side pull new holland and it makes beautiful, firm bales.  Need to work on bale quality also ...

 

Thanks

 

Challenger SB36 or MF 1840 stripper arm wear

any ideas on stuck bolt bottom roller case 8465 on tailgate

any ideas on stuck bolt bottom roller case 8465 on tailgate

Knipex 7101200 fencing pliers

Got a pair of these and love them.  So does Knipex.  The tips of the jaws are starting to chip from nose cuts.  Anyone know where to get replacement bits or jaws?  

Knipex 7101200 fencing pliers

3 point Disc Mower stubble height

How do you adjust the stubble height from a 3 pt disc mower.We tried one when they first came out but felt it cut the grass too close to the ground.Traded back for a second Haybine.

 I have since read comments about raising the tilt of the cutter bar with the top link similar to what could be done to make an old sickle bar cut longer but I can't see how the blade angle on the back side wouldn't be cutting grass as it exited underneath  the cutter bar.

What am I not seeing here? Or is installing a high skid shoe the answer.I think I'd rather go Discbine but may have to settle for  disc mower.

3 point Disc Mower stubble height

Great Plains Parts.

Just a heads up for GP seeder and drill folks, On Purplewave auction it appears that their is a part liquidation of some kind going on next month. I included a link. If there is something you could use, you could get a buy in it.

 

Regards, Mike

 

https://www.purplewave.com/search/?searchType=all&dateType=upcoming&zipcodeRange=all&filters=industry_category_id%3A151%3Bfamily_category_id%3A198&sortBy=current_bid-desc&perPage=50&grouped=false&viewtype=compressed&page=1

Great Plains Parts.

trouble with my NH 638 round baler

I have an older 4x4 baler, NH 638 which recently broke the belt lacing on one belt, and on inspection had 3 other ratty connectors (clipper type) My first plan was to replace the two worst with new and then cut 6 foot sections from the good parts of the removed belts, relace them and install the repaired belts removing the ratty ones plus the two new ones. I discovered that the baler had belts that were 5  inches shorter than the regulation 272.5 inch new belts I had. Decided to replace all belts with new aftermarket 272.5" belts, but now am wondering what the difference in length is going to do. I have already discovered several shall we say, hack job repairs by the previous owner and have no idea why he would have put short belts in.  I doubt the belts all shrank the exact same distance, so it must have been on purpose.  Anyway, can anyone see that I am going to have problems with all new belts that  are 5" longer?  Just for the record, I checked with the NH dealer who assured me that 272.5 inches is what that baler called for and even measured the new belts to be sure they weren't mislabeled. Are there adjustments I should make to get the right belt tension with the longer belts? (the manual doesn't say)  And how tight is that since I can't be sure that what the baler came with is really right and it never has been a championship baler since I've owned it.

trouble with my NH 638 round baler

664 balers

Baler stops once monitor hit 52. Have it set for 70.
Works perfectly up until it stops at 52. Dump out partial bale. Does same thing. Calibrated sensor. Continues to do some thing

664 balers

Trouble Shooting JD 467 Net Wrapper

Hello all. Having problems with the net wrapper on our 467. I’ll try to describe problem as best as I can:

1. Everything works fine as far as forming the bale. I receive all alarms properly meaning I receive the “near full” alarm and “full bale” alarm.

2. Once the “full bale” alarm is sounded I stop and the net wrap begins to feed onto the bale, however, at times I never receive the alarm signaling that the wrap cycle is complete and it’s safe to dump bale. The actuator remains extended and the net wrap continues to feed into the bale chamber.

3. I don’t know if there is any relationship, but this only seems to start occur when the net roll only has about 2” left on the roll. Once a full roll is loaded then the problem has disappeared. At least that what has happened with the last 2 rolls.

4. My thought is that the sensor that monitors the number of wraps is not working properly. Any other thoughts on what the problem may be?

Thanks,
Chris

Trouble Shooting JD 467 Net Wrapper

John Deere 530 baler

Hello everyone.  Husband bought a John Deere 530 Baler but has been having problems with the twine.  First the twine arms would not move at all but got that going. It seems that the valve is sticking and have got that going. After about an hour of sitting the twine arm would not move again. After hubby manually moved it, it would go again. He wonders if air is getting into the system. Any thoughts?

John Deere 530 baler

Tar River drum mower (calling Texas Mark and others with this brand)

Anyone with a Tar River brand drum mower?  Please say how you like (or dislike) this brand over other brands of drum mowers and explain why.

 

For Texas Mark:  I saw in another thread that you bought a new Tar River drum mower this year and sold your beloved SFI drum mower.  I did not want to hijack that other thread so I am posting this one instead.

 

Questions:

 

A:  Why did you get rid of the SFI drum mower so relatively soon (at least in the eyes of a small acreage farmer)?  I believe you got the SFI in 2012 or 2013  if I recall correctly?

 

B:  Why Tar River this time instead of another SFI brand especially with SFI being right there in Texas and no Tar River dealer in Texas?

 

C:  What do you like about the Tar River drum mower better so far?

 

D:  What did you like about the old SFI drum mower better?

 

Just curious.  Thinking of adding a drum mower to my arsenal for some tiny piddle patch fields that are hard to get my ole haybine into and simply curious on the lowdown on the different brands....

Tar River drum mower (calling Texas Mark and others with this brand)

Baleage for sheep

Sorry for the ads from Premier 1, good article though

https://www.premier1supplies.com/newsletters/07-23-2019-sheep.html?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=July-23-Sheep

Baleage for sheep

Rual King

I seen on some other forums that new owner seem pleased with RK tractors, Not sure who makes them,,maybe TYM?

Rual King

if Kubota would grant my wish

if KTC would grant my wish.-- they would produce a new model RTV just a tad bigger with about 60 hp a heavy frame with an attachment on the front for a loader and other attachments. kinda like the toolcat but with the simplicity of the RTV. what would you add to it???:wave::beatdeadhorse5:

if Kubota would grant my wish

RTV1100 evaporator leak

Over the years I have had to take the ac apart and clean the evaporator a couple of times because the filters did not keep the dust out and it stops up so you don't get much air flow. It developed a leak this year and needed to be repaired or replaced. Using the part number I found the price of a new one ranges from just over $400 to nearly $1000. Then I found a third party that cost about $85 by the time I paid shipping. For that price it was not worth trying to repair the old one. I installed it yesterday and the fit was great. Pulled a good vacuum, made sure it would hold, and charged it. It's working great. The evaporator is made by Omega and the part # is 27-34051. I got it from Trucker's AC. I found some other places had it from $100-150. It's a PITA to take it apart to change out because the top section of the unit is all one piece. You have to mark, disconnect the heater lines and plug them to pull the top and get to the evaporator to change it. You have one screw hid in the middle just to the left side of the heater that has to be taken out to get it apart along with a bunch all around the outside edge. It could have been made with a two piece top cover and made it easier to take apart.

RTV1100 evaporator leak

New Holland 488 haybine issue

I can't seem to find this information for my NH 488 haybine

 

The head drops to the ground even when in transport mode.  I goes up okay when I use the hydraulic cylinder.

What holds the head up?

What should I be looking at to see if it is broken or damaged?

New Holland 488 haybine issue

Kubota RTV-XG850

Just bought one this past week and now looking for some mirrors or at least one.
I had a mule in the past but the wife likes the kubota. Are there anyplace to find some aftermarket items that will work with the XG850? Other than from Kubota

Kubota RTV-XG850

Kuhns Accumulator

I took delivery of a Kuhns AF4 & EGF8 today.  I would have liked to go bigger but this is what i could afford for the time being.  I was to the point with ss baling that I had to do something to move away from manual labor.  I like it so far.  I just need a little time to get my system worked out.

 

I would like to thank Barnhart's from Hepzibah, GA for basically spending the day with me getting everything set up and working. 

Kuhns Accumulator

Square baler maintenance cost

Hello everyone I have a question about square baler maintenance. I've been looking at purchasing a square baler. Iv found a real nice JD 336 that an old farmer has on Craigslist. He has owned it for 14 years and looks like he's taking real good care of it. I really don't know much about small square balers yet so if I bought this baler and took it to a dealer what would I expect to pay to have it checked over and fine tuned minus the cost of any parts if it were to need them? I'm sure some of you do this in the fall or spring just looking for a ball park estimate before I make an offer. The guy said he had it to the dealer about 4 years ago to have the knottors worked on and plunger shims adjusted. He seems real honest and says it's been real reliable for him with out and issues.

Thanks guys.

Square baler maintenance cost

Foxtail and crabgrass

I have 25 acres of land grew oats for a Seed Company. It is full of grass now not many broadleaf weeds and hay in demand around here right now and so I was thinking about putting 50 units of n on and harvesting the grass in 30 to 40 days for feed. I done it once before and it worked another time it did not work does anyone ever do this?

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Foxtail and crabgrass

Solar fence charger

Thinking about getting a Gallagher s22 fence charger. Does anyone have any experience with this solar unit

Solar fence charger

Dust off of crabgrass hay is wicked.

Normally the dust/particles off of any hay does not bother me. But man the fine brown dust off of cured Grab grass gets in my eyes and nose and when it gets on my skin it itches kinda like fiberglass. Any else even noticed it?

Dust off of crabgrass hay is wicked.

Bovine Burping And Climate Change.

From Growing Tennessee.

 

Regards, Mike

 

http://tennessee.growingamerica.com/features/2019/07/bovine-burping-and-climate-change

Bovine Burping And Climate Change.

NH 570 baler making random short bales

My brother baled some light second cut today and had trouble with the baler making some very short (barely over half the normal length) bales, but only around 1 in 8 it seemed.  It was a small field and seemed to happen more often whenever he turned and there was no hay going in the baler.

 

He just replaced the knurled wheel that drives the trip arm and the teeth on the arm are in good shape.  This baler has always been on the inconsistent side for bale length especially in light swaths, but is it possible he put the wheel on wrong somehow even though there's not much too it!  He felt that the arm was bouncing up on the turns even with no hay going in, but he was by himself so no way to observe it.  Kuhns accumulator on behind so lots of back pressure.

 

Thanks for any ideas!

NH 570 baler making random short bales

Wanted Op. Manual for a BobCat 753 loader

Would like to find an operators manual for a new to me 1991 BobCat 753 Skid-Steer Loader. S/N 508613171. Prefer something cheaper than BobCats $93+.
If you wish call me at three2five 537 two564
Bryce

Wanted Op. Manual for a BobCat 753 loader

New holland br740

Looking at buying a br740 I’ve never had a belt baler only the old 848. Wondering if anyone on here knows why the belts on this baler are hanging down so much? I haven’t had a chance to go look at it yet and it’s pretty far away so I want to know before I go if anyone knows. The dealer says it’s normal but I can’t see it.

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New holland br740

Kubota Owner Survey - Two Year Mark

Got a card in the mail last week from Kubota asking me to complete an owner survey. It was to evaluate owner satisfaction at the two year point.

I completed the survey and after two years with our RTV-X1120, I only have two gripes

1. The ATV tires that came on it were terrible and very little bite in the mud. (I never cared for the purdy aluminum rims either so I have both in storage.)

2. Either the transmission is smoother now or I am better at managing the shifting difficulties on hills. But it is still a pain to have that hang up sometimes. I don't know if it is possible to fix it based on the overall design.

The thing sips fuel, pulls hard, carries a huge load and will tow a lot more than it is rated to do. A little more speed would be nice to have but its gets there just fine.

I suggested that they make the expandable bed (like they have on the 1140) as an option for the 1120. There are times another foot of bed space would have made all the difference.

This summer's heat in Ohio made me lust after the 1100's air conditioned cab but overall, we are still very happy with the RTV.

Kubota Owner Survey - Two Year Mark

NH 315 baler knife shim

So the clearance on the knives is about 1/4in. what is the best way to shim this back up. I cant get to it through the pick up or bale shoot as i dont fit. i can get someone to help me through the pickup but have no idea how to get to them. Thanks

NH 315 baler knife shim

Northern Exposure.

Alberta....from MyFarmLife.

 

Regards, Mike

 

https://myfarmlife.com/life-on-the-land/northern-exposure/

Northern Exposure.

MN Wheat Straw Market

I've got about 20 acres of wheat that will be combined in the next couple weeks.  I don't have any storage on site so I'll small square until my wagons are full and then have someone come in and big square the rest.  Looks like that will cost me about $10/bale?

Trying to sell the big squares right out of the field.

I know that the size of the big squares matter, but anyone have a ballpark on what big squares of wheat are going for in south central MN??

 

MN Wheat Straw Market

DCX131 in sorghum x sudan

Hello and thanks in advance for any help. I am looking to upgrade my MacDon 5020 16’ sickle mower. I had become convinced I wanted to look for a disc mower conditioner and found a Case IH DCX131 locally. It is a clean solid unit but when I talked to the previous owner he stated he had issues with cane (sorghum x Sudan) getting wrapped and binding on the outer units. Half or a little more of my acres are SxS so obviously this is a concern. Does anybody have any experience running this machine through a similar crop? I’m not sure what the New Holland analog is but I assume it is similar and would apply to my question. Just a few points of reference if anybody has any suggestions about this machine or others I should look at. We mostly make our own hay to feed to our cattle. My hay acres are approximately 1/2 SxS, 1/3 alfalfa with the remainder in irrigated grass and a small amount of Teff. I currently pull my machine with a John Deere 4450 (~125 h.p.) but could also hook on our Case IH MX 200 (165 h.p.+) if I need more power in rank stuff. All acres are round baled as dry hay. Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated!

DCX131 in sorghum x sudan

Summer Burn Down of Hay Field

I've got a small hay field that used to be alfalfa, but it's now been taken over by foxtail and other weed grasses. Also has some spots with "THISTLE" in it. Would like to go with a complete burndown of this field and then plant back to orchard grass and timothy this fall. Would probably like to do light tilling with a disk and cultipacker after the burndown and before reseeding this fall. My question is what would be the best herbicide for this burn down that would also kill the thistle. My local AG supplier was talking about using Liberty herbicide, but I know nothing about this one. Any comments or suggestions would be welcome. I'm located in East Central Illinois.

Summer Burn Down of Hay Field

Summer Burn Down of Hay Field

I've got a small hay field that used to be alfalfa, but it's now been taken over by foxtail and other weed grasses. Also has some spots with "THISTLE" in it. Would like to go with a complete burndown of this field and then plant back to orchard grass and timothy this fall. Would probably like to do light tilling with a disk and cultipacker after the burndown and before reseeding this fall. My question is what would be the best herbicide for this burn down that would also kill the thistle. My local AG supplier was talking about using Liberty herbicide, but I know nothing about this one. Any comments or suggestions would be welcome. I'm located in East Central Illinois.

Summer Burn Down of Hay Field

Custom Shredding

Whats going rate for Custom shredding these days.  Im Chargeing $45 per acre for small acres and if its a big plot $25 per acre.  Does that sound about right?

Custom Shredding

New Holland 1475 PTO gearbox issues

The shaft stripped out on my eaton Hydraulic pump.   it also looks like there is damage where the  shaft goes into the gearbox.  I contacted New holland parts store in my area and was able to order the shaft for the pump but they said no parts available for the gearbox.    There are 2 part numbers 86531473 and 86531474.  the new holland dealer told me i needed the 73.  so it looks like i have to purchase a new gearbox.    has anyone else ran into this issue? 

New Holland 1475 PTO gearbox issues

kubota T1400 hst WSM

Any one have a copy?
I need the adjustment instructions for HST pedal.
I did a fluid change and had a heck of a time bleeding the system and now I can only get about 1/2 power in forward and full in reverse.

kubota T1400 hst WSM

John Deere 920 MoCo

Found a 920 MoCo John Deere for sale. What’s the good the bad and the ugly and what do I need to look for? I have googled it and the biggest thing seems to be having enough tractor to run it. I have a 200 Allis Chalmers that should pull it good. I haven’t talked to seller yet but the ad says it needs some hoses replaced and a cylinder is leaking. If I get it it’s going to be cutting fescue.

John Deere 920 MoCo

Explain Sweat and Bale Moisture

Assume you've got hay that's 16% moisture per a probe meter into the bale; hay that is just baled and stacked in the barn.  A week later you take readings and see 20-22% moisture.  After some time, the readings come back down.  Through it all, no dust or mold.

 

Where does this additional moisture (sweat) come from?

Explain Sweat and Bale Moisture

Tag Me.

From Growing Tennessee.

 

Regards, Mike

 

http://tennessee.growingamerica.com/features/2019/07/tag-me

Tag Me.

MF/Hesston 1363 MC Vibration

I just developed a vibration in my gearbox that has the shaft that goes to the cutter bar. Drive line seems smooth. The u joints that are on the shaft that goes on the cutter bar disc seem good but the shaft seems a little loose. I have always kept them greased but that assembly has a little wobble. Would sure appreciate some help Thanks

MF/Hesston 1363 MC Vibration

Which sorghum sudan

Due to the reality of making sorghum sudan hay I opt to take one cutting, usually after freezing. This year I planted a BMR photosensitive variety which looks great. My question is would I be better to plant a dry stalk variety, a dwarf variety or whatever.

 

I also winter graze sorghum sudan and of course the photo sensitive thing is great. Day length causes it to head out about the time of our first frost or at least cool weather. Any ideas on what might be a better fit? The cows do leave stalks in the field but by the time I plant first of June with my no till drill it's not a problem. FYI we live in Minnesota.

 

Thanks farmguy

Which sorghum sudan

Vermeer 605J

I have a 605J baler the belts will not tighten.    The belts all have been cut to 43'6" but should be 44".  

I put air in the bags up to 100lbs(gauge is off but 15 bs).

It moves the rods but not much.  I remove the arm end with the springs. They were froze.  Any suggestion on how to fix the matter.  Would be great.  thank u

Vermeer 605J

JD 535 Baler problems

I am wondering if any of you can help me with my problem. My 535 baler has an issue with the kicker bar kicking out before the bale drops onto the ground. I was wondering if the shocks on the kicker bad are bad and it kicks out to fast??

JD 535 Baler problems

Case ih 8460 help

I have a case ih 8460 baler the controls will work for 4-5 bales how there supposed to on manual mode then the controls will act up having the play with the switches and auto mode to get it to lift talgait,twin,turn belts on anybody have any clues?

Case ih 8460 help

660 new holland baler problems

I have a 660 new Holland baler that is a auto wrap baler. The twine arms were wore out so I replace them with one that I got from a equipment salvage yard this winter. The cones seem to be in good shape. I have put up several bales, but now the bale won't grab the twine to start tying the bale. Is there any adjustment to cut twine longer. The arms are going to the right spot to start tying. I also replaced the cutter knife this winter as well. They always run a sale on plastic twine at the farm store so that's what I buy. Could the Twine be my problem or can I cut my twine longer?

660 new holland baler problems

Orchard grass no rain for 2 weeks, none forecasted, cut now?

Michigan on sand. Mixed grass field, primarily orchard grass. Some alfalfa, clover, timothy and rye. I managed to get a cutting early June while we were getting tons of rain. I did get a lot of rain earlier like everyone else but I'm in a very particular part of Michigan that the rain skips over every summer and we've reached that point again. So I'm at 1.5" for the month with the last measurable rain being .15", 16 days ago. Since then in inches the only things that registered are .02, .01, .04 and .02. My 10 day forecast shows nothing for another week. I was hoping for some more rain in early July to get another push of growth but that doesn't seem to be happening. The tips are starting to brown so i'm wondering do I just cut the 2nd cutting now, take what I can get and then get another cut in the fall hopefully.

 

Here's some pics, overall theme is about mid calf height, some is just above the ankle, some is knee height. Tried to get my leg in for a reference.

 

 

 

Orchard grass no rain for 2 weeks, none forecasted, cut now?

Twine spacing on 568 JD round baler

We had our previous 567 baler wrapping the twine in distinct bands about 4 inches apart. This resulted in nice tight wrapping. The twine arm would move and stop at intervals to do this. We upgraded to a 568 and have not been able to get it to twine the same way. Tried all the optional setting (cinch wrap, re-extension twine tying program) and could not get it to work the way the 567 did. Also called a John service man and he did not know how either. I would appreciate some help.

Twine spacing on 568 JD round baler

How to get to the 300 codes on my JD 568 round baler monitor?

I want to do some fine tuning and advanced trouble shooting on my baletrak pro monitor and need to get to the 301 and up codes. Also a listing of the 300 codes and their function would be very helpful. Thanks.

How to get to the 300 codes on my JD 568 round baler monitor?

Which moisture number do you belive?

I have a new Vermeer Rancher that has running moisture numbers on the monitor. I also have a HT-PRO moisture tester and their numbers are not close. I can roll a bale and the monitor may show 12 to 15 on moisture, kick the bale out, stick the HT-PRO in and it shows 26. My problem is which one do you believe?

Which moisture number do you belive?

Br7070 baler. Just bought a 2011. Oyvay.

Having issues with this baler. I believe the actuator is messed up, just does a rapid fire clicking. Not sure if has to be replaced or if there is some sort of trick. The bale monitor shows an actuator error.

Also to load the net, the inside of the baler looks nothing like the diagram. Did the net load change from year to year? Could I have the wrong manual?

Thanks.

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Br7070 baler. Just bought a 2011. Oyvay.

PTO sheild/guard for CCM mower

Hey Fella's,

 

Hope you can help me out with this one.   I am looking to replace the PTO shaft shield for a CCM165 drum mower. No markings on PTO shaft. Owners manual doesn't reference it. Carter and carter machinery is trying to contact company in Turkey that makes them to no avail. Gonna try to attach some pics of clip. Thanks

 

 

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PTO sheild/guard for CCM mower

Trail behind vs mower/conditioner

Not really new at baling hay, but new to having to make all the decisions. I'm wondering if anyone can tell me the advantages of using a mower/conditioner in south east MS on mostly Bahia and Bermuda verses a side mower or trail behind? I currently run (2) 8' three point hitch side mowers and looking to upgrade to  a larger mower as I tend to bale around 1000-1500 bales a year. I've heard conflicting ideas about the conditioners in our area as far as it drying the hay out too fast vs mowing and tedding. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Trail behind vs mower/conditioner

NH BC 5070 Feeding fingers bale chamber problem.

We have two NH BC5070. One with bale skiis and the other doesn't. The one without has a problem with the right side of the bale chamber being not fed the same as the left side. The bales are not tight and the right side twine comes off sometimes. The twine is not tight. The manual says the adjust the feeding fingers, but gives no specific way to adjust the feeding fingers based on your problem. . There are nine adjustments, big whoo! I have tried it seems every way and it doesn't work. I cannot make the strings tight either. We think this has been getting worse since we cut 2 weeks ago. Both balers in the same field, same windrows, same crop and that can't be the problem. Even tried changing operators. Bale Skiis are nice but that can't be the issue. 

NH BC 5070 Feeding fingers bale chamber problem.

RTV1140CPX lost its head is this all RTV's

Ok I bought a Rtv1140cpx a few weeks back ran great everything works looked to be well taken care of 573 hours. Get it home use it a couple days and start noticing steam out the exhaust then came a quick over heat and I shut it down. Figured a head gasket as I was getting bubbles in radiator. So I ordered a gasket and when it came in I tore into it. Once I got the head off my luck the head has multiple cracks. So I start looking on the internet and made a few calls to dealerships. Serial number 14301 on machine and D1105-9L3910 engine serial number. 3 different dealerships they give me 3 different part numbers 1G065-03044, 1J096-03040 then 1G053-03044. Everyone with different prices ranging from 600 to 1000 dollars. Confused i got back on the world wide web just to add to my confusion. I have found where all part numbers should interchange while the dealers especially the higher priced on told me it was only that head part number only for my machine. In the meantime I set the head back on the block until I figured out what to do. Well right on this head is the cast number D1305 as on a completely different engine number. Now I'm really scratching my head. So does anyone have any knowledge of the head on these D1105 engines. According to what I have found the one thing I am certain of is the motor was built in June of 2009. After that I am struggling. Which head do I need? Any help?

RTV1140CPX lost its head is this all RTV's

Tyler fertilizer spreader

We have an old Tyler fertilizer spreader sitting around, 5 ton with torque axles under it. Both are froze up so if this works will probably replace with spring suspension. 

Anyways, this one has really steep sides compared to our Wilmar and has a wide web in it, our train of thought is to take the diverter out over the web and see if we can spread lime with it. Anymore getting near impossible to get anybody to spread lime in a timely manner and most only will do it if they're getting to spread two ton/acre. We have a lot of fields that only need 1000 lbs or so.

The only thing I wonder about is every lime spreader I’ve ever seen used chain and slats instead of a web conveyor. Anybody ever spread fertilizer with a Tyler before? 

Tyler fertilizer spreader

john deere baler 535

when baler make full bale and its time to put string on bale, when its time to cut string it only cuts first string not the second,the second string stay back away from knife about 2 inchs any suggestions would help thanks

john deere baler 535

2nd Cutting Bermuda/Bahia Hay Field Gone To Seed

This is my first year to ever make hay. I cut my 25 acre hay field first cutting on May 20th, mostly rye grass. Since the first cutting the bermuda and bahia grass has come up pretty good despite no fertilizer, but it's gotten very dry the past few weeks and all the grass has gone to seed - by the millions. 

 

I was able to harvest just enough hay in the first cutting to meet my winter feeding needs for my beef cows but I'm thinking on doing a second cutting since it's always nice to have extra hay just in case. I don't plan on selling any hay. 

 

I know hay quality decreases once seeds appear as the grass stops growing and it turns its focus to reproduction. Given my situation, should I do my second cutting now or let the seeds mature and fall in hopes that all the seeds will make the grass even better next year or just forget about it because it's already too late to salvage?

2nd Cutting Bermuda/Bahia Hay Field Gone To Seed

Hesston 6610 uneven windrow

I have a 6610 hesston mower with a 16 foot single auger head with steel on steel rolls. I the mower works well for me except it seems to make a clumpy windrow. Like instead of feeding through evenly it goes through in clumps. Also it seems like most of the hay goes through the rolls right at the center. There is a rubber flap in the center and a piece of fighting on each side that looks like they were added on. Wondering if I removed some of the extra fighting it would help. The add on fighting I'm thinking might be bringing too much hay to the very center.

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Hesston 6610 uneven windrow

Hay prices

Your mileage may vary.
https://www.hayandforage.com/article-2578-USDA-Hay-Markets---July-16-2019.html

Hay prices

Pinion seal replacement

]I posted part of this in a different thread but will follow up here.
I was working on the fence and a piece of stray wire became wrapped around the yoke of the front driveshaft right where the seal is. I cut it off best I could because a bad looking storm was approaching. I cautiously got to the barn and parked because oil was leaking out of the diff. I took off the shaft after marking everything so I could but every piece back just like it was when the project was finished. I tied it to the side out of the way, with the 2 exposed ujoints clamped so the caps wouldn't fall off . and then started getting off the yoke. I had to use a 1 1/8 " socket and the newer impact wrench because the old one didn't have enough umpt. I tugged on it but it wouldn't budge so used an ancient gear puller and a piece of small chain bolted around the olk so that I would have a better grip. It zipped right off with the impact wrench.. I now removed the last piece of wire that ruined the seal. It was wound so tight that it looked like a spring( about 4 winds worth) The seal was a little harder to remove but had a great outcome with a sharpened screwdriver that had the tip slightly bent. I carefully lifted up the edge of the seal's flange by tapping the blade of the bent screwdriver tip under it and slowly went around, lifting it, as far as I could go. Then, I gave it a pry and out it popped. Now waiting on the backordered seal. The screwdriver with the bent tip kept me from gouging the seat. Here's the link I used again in case the other thread wasn't read. Now waiting on seal to come in. bordercollie

edit : It's really important to mark everything before disassembling. other thread here : http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums...ad.php?t=17988 I should have put them together.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=Z0zz1_4UYqk

Pinion seal replacement

An app worth looking at?

Here is an article from Progressive Forage (Lynn's publication) about a BTO, what intrigued me was the app, though I haven't tried to locate yet.

https://www.progressiveforage.com/forage-production/harvest-and-storage/the-head-scratch-tracking-multiple-operations-multiple-fields

Larry

An app worth looking at?

NH 54A thrower.

So we have a older 273 baler with a 54A thrower on it that we inherited. Something tells me that this thrower has been modified. Because there is no speed control on it anywhere. So with that being said yesterday with only a little hay left to bale. The thrower threw off both belts in the rear. The one that comes off the long shaft. And the other on the right side of the thrower (looking at it from the rear). Not having or finding any manuals online. I'm a little lost on how these belts go back on. Because every pic I can find in the net is definitely different from what I'm seeing ours looks like. Does anyone have a diagram of the belt routing they could share. Or a pic of there's with out the Safety cover on? Thanks Dan

NH 54A thrower.

Premium Oil Filters for X900

Does anyone have the Bosh, Mobil 1,or K&N oil filter numbers for a X900. I've checked their online catalog, no one seems to list the X900.

Premium Oil Filters for X900

Weed control for pasture and hay field

My pastures are becoming dominated by broadleaf plantain, and it's creeping back into my hay field adjacent to the pasture. I also get a lot of Queen Anne's Lace (wild carrot). Since the hay field soil pH is up to correct levels I don't see hardly any wild carrot there this year...yet.

 

In the past I used 2,4-D for plantain but it seems like it's losing it's effectiveness.

 

I have clover and a little bit of alfalfa in the field.

 

I also get a lot of heavy brush along the fencelines, especially along woods.

 

Looking through all the herbicides is mind-boggling. Looks like I am limited to Pursuit or Raptor for this field (5.2 acres)? But it's expensive.

 

What are some good weed control options I could do?

Weed control for pasture and hay field

Found a DEALER

In another thread, I discuss some problems associated with a cover on the back of the HST. A poor casting allowed a crack to further open due to the tremendous pressure that is developed as the swash plate does it's thing with momentum and vibration developed just millimeters away. In a new casting that I obtained to replace the cracked one are several hairline cracks around future faults to develop...……….…..

In addition, one has to realize, when confronted with tasks, labor, and materials that there are some jobs that are a bit above this person's abilities and desire to try to take on another "learning opportunity".!!


So, first thing on Monday morning, got on the phone after putting "Kubota Dealer" into the search engine I use. Of course, up popped umpteen hundred chances for spending forever in the chance to call, hold, explain the problem, and:

What's an HST????
"We just replace the whole transmission. We dont have the time to figure out what parts are missing or messed up"...…..$3500
"Sure, we can handle that! It will only be a couple of weeks for us to take a look at it" $1200.....

ON AN ON

Finally...…..A real mechanic who knew the exact problem, advised about keeping the bolts in order, shared how hard to get a certain bearing out of the old case can be and best of all,......maybe....$250 for re-assembly, a new bearing, and fluids...………

Don't know about YOU; but after all this time of loosing an old line dealer, "I could care about your problem" attitude, idiots that cant work a light switch that orders parts that will get there 2 weeks from now, and most often, to far away to be of use...……..

I am truly blessed...…..onto the trailer, drive 38 miles, and deliver the machine. Out come 3 fellas to take off my chains and straps, smiling in the heat comes the owner of the place, and relates how glad he is to see me. Yes, they have a yard full of machines to work on; but be assured that they will have my repair finished as soon as parts come in next week...…..FANTASTIC...….

hmmmmm ZERO INTEREST ON A NEW "L" WITH 80 MONTHS TO PAY IT OFF...…This old Boy has found a place to spread smiles and good will...…...God blesses in wonderful ways....Dennis

Found a DEALER

Hauled steers yesterday

Rain stopped hay activity ,so opportunity to address a skid steer issue. Had a Case 40 xt getting long in the tooth (9960 hours). Moved that one out. Picked up a S175 bobcat. 2003 with 1433 hours. We will put more hours on it in a month, than this one averaged in a year. First Bobcat.........stay tuned



Hauled steers yesterday

Help please NH630

So what causes the hay to wrap around the rollers like it is? Keeps causing me to break shear pins. Took two hours to make 10 4 x 4 bales. ITs a NH630 Baler

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Help please NH630

Hauling New Holland 1495

So I recently purchased a new holland 1495 self propelled haybine. I am trying to figure out how to haul it. It is about 120 miles north of me. The machine is 10ft 10 inches wide at the front tires. around 15ft wide at the ends of the head. the rear tires can be narrowed up to 7 1/2 ft. I’m currently thinking of taking the chains out of the front drives and hooking a tow bar to the rear axle and pulling it home slowly with my one ton pickup. I would remove the head and make a 2nd trip with my trailer. Does anyone have any experience with this? I would appreciate any advice! Thank you!

Hauling New Holland 1495

Help pleaee

So what causes the hay to wrap around the rollers like it is? Keeps causing me to break shear pins. Took two hours to make 10 4 x 4 bales

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Help pleaee

Maybe some movement with post emerge nutsedge control in cool season grasses

Had an interesting conversation with a tech rep from Gowan today on Sledgehammer and Sandea herbicides, both marketed as post emerge nutsedge control solutions.  They are the same product with different marketing targets, Sledgehammer for homeowners with lawns and ornamental shrubs, Sandea for fruit and vegetable producers.  Funny, no really active marketing to hay producers.  Since the smallest container of sandea is 350-400$, I will pick up a small container of sledgehammer.  Comes with a small measure for using with a gallon of water-perfect for backpack spot spraying.  I am guessing it is about 1/8 tsp.  Label for sandea includes forage grasses and there is a 2 month plant back delay for forage grasses after use.  I told the rep if this stuff really works (also labeled for broadcast as well) they were missing the boat not marketing it for Nutsedge control in cool season grasses.  Will try some and report back.  Here's hoping!

Maybe some movement with post emerge nutsedge control in cool season grasses

Small Square bale moisture

While square baling yesterday I came across a part of a windrow where the grass was not dried. It was still very green. Everywhere else the moisture was right around 13 to 15%. I saw it before baling and removed it from the windrow. 

 

Do you guys worry about this or just bale it?

 

 

Thank you,

Small Square bale moisture

NH306 SD manure spreader

First cutting is done, was gonna spread on some PP acres. 

Front bearing on the auger is gone, any clue as to why a new bearing is almost $1700??? NH part number 9621993   

 

https://www.messicks.com/part/9621993

NH306 SD manure spreader

NH 152 kicker wheels

Recently acquired a New Holland HT152 10 wheel v rake. I'm pretty happy with it so far. Cut my raking time to 1/3 of what it used to be. Mowing with a Frontier DM1160 7'10" cut 3 point disc mower, so I can catch 3 passes. My only complaint is the kicker wheels. Since my mower lays everything out flat and wide, the center isn't Turing as well as I would like. Haven't really looked into it, but has anyone made any adjustments or modifications to the kicker wheels to make them turn better?

NH 152 kicker wheels

Swapping headers

I'm looking to swap out the header on my 2300 Discbine for a 2300 Haybine. Has anyone done this? What needs to be done to make the swap?

Swapping headers

Wrapping after rained on bales

Will it hurt to wrap green hay after the bales got rained on ?

Wrapping after rained on bales

RTV 1140X Keeps Blowing Solenoid Fuse

I have a 2018 RTV 1140X and the machine keeps blowing a 30 amp fuse which is labeled "Solenoid" on the fuse box. I have been reading through numerous posts on here without much luck in a resolution. Could the solenoid itself cause this to happen?

RTV 1140X Keeps Blowing Solenoid Fuse

Seal Replacement in Front End

I was working on a fence that had been run thru by animals . The Roxor picked up a piece of wire and wrapped it just right around the area between the U joints and seal of the differential.
Of course, a storm was approaching so I got under and tried to cut it off so I could get home. It was a mess. The wire had wrapped around the yolk between it and the seal and totally ruined the seal.
I crept to the barn a half mile away and parked it . Then, I found some help and encouragement on the web so am sharing that .
This link explains it and the camera work is clear. He had the exact problem I did when trying to remove the seal - I sharpened an old bent screwdriver and was successful. I gently (at first) opened the flange of the seal and went around as far as I could and then ,add a little prying to the center and it came right out with that but before hand, I was about fit to be tied. Pay particular attention to how and mark everything so it will go back together properly. I'm waiting on the seal to come in and until then the Roxor just teases me - setting there - luring me but not able to use .. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0zz1_4UYqk

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Seal Replacement in Front End

haying grass

hi everone im on my last season with my alfafa i put up small sqaures to sell so my has any one used any seed from best forage the mix im looking at is haymaster premium grass mix is it worth the money or is there something out there

haying grass

case 8350 hay conditioner

hi everone i have a queistion on my 8350 my tension cables on my crimping wheels where broke so i placed them i put it all back together the same way it came apart and i can get the cables to tighting up at all does anyone have picture on the mechanism thank for any help 

i made the cables the myself 

case 8350 hay conditioner

SS Baler

We are looking at getting a newer small square baler, we have a 273 but that leaves so much in the field and is slow. With everyone having jobs and weather not helping anymore we are thinking about going to a newer JD or maybe NH. Can you guys tell me what models would be good and what you like about them? 

Thanks Luke

SS Baler

Kuhn ga6002 rotary rake.

Anybody running a twine rotary rake?
I use Kuhn GA6002. I really like the concept. But 99% of the time rake Two windrows. The huge problem is the window behind the tractor is always way bigger. Than the trailing windrow.
I tried group speed also PTO rpm. Nothing is working. I believe if the back rake . Was sitting 8 to 12 inches farther back . I bet would have better results.

Kuhn ga6002 rotary rake.

Terra Drum Mower With Conditioner

Anyone have pros/cons on the Terra drum mower with conditioner? I understand drum mowers usually windrow tight but Terra says they spread the hay out well and have built in conditioners to help with drying. I farm only orchard/Timothy hay, so generally the first cut is the one with most stems. I only farm 10 acres so the price for a new mower seems reasonable compared to a used discbine.

Terra Drum Mower With Conditioner

Sprayer Help

Bought a new three point 200 gallon sprayer with 20’ booms. Nozzles are spaced 16”. Performed calibration test and 255’ for 16” nozzles was 39 seconds. Checked nozzle output it was 20 ounces in 39 seconds which should be 20 gallons per acre. So if I wanted to spray weed master at 4 pints per acre I would mix 2.5 gallons for every 100 gallons? Is my math right?

Sprayer Help

New Idea 5209 cutterbar alignment with twisted driveshaft

I purchased a well used NI 5209 this year and it works pretty well. I need help with turtle alignment. I have the operators manual, which gives a fairly good discussion of alignment but i do not have the service manual.

First a little background. To begin the season I checked the grease in 2 of the turtles and one was filled correctly the other was a little over full. So I assumed the turtle lubrication was good enough to get going. I changed the transmission oil and went to work. I havent operated a discbine before but am very pleased. I need to master the 90 degree turns or learn to live with sloppy corners or do the stop, lift, back up and turn, lower and proceed method or the lift, turn around 270 degrees, lower and proceed method. But im progressing up the learning curve.

Ive cut about 25 acres so far this year with this mower. Shortly after starting to mow the last 5 acre field I heard a pretty loud metallic clicking so I stopped to check on the mower. I expected a bent knife was hitting the cutterbar. I couldnt find anything wrong. I started to head for the shop but couldnt imagine what I would do, and I really needed to get the hay cut, so I decided to continue mowing. The ticking diminished, as one could expect, and fortunately not wath a metallic crash! When i was finished, i found a piece of heavy fence wire in the area where i first heard the clicking. I had considered that maybe I'd hit some wire but couldn't see any on the ground or in the cutterbar. I did pull a nail out of one of the rollers and wondered if the nail had been hitting the frame. But I really thought the metallic clicking i heard couldnt be made by wire or nail. This morning it is no longer clicking, but did sound a little unusual, like maybe something was rubbing.

So i pulled the turtles and found wire wrapped around 2 of the hubs. One of the turtles had obviously been hit by knives on an adjacent turtle, but the knives on the adjacent turtles didnt have any corresponding damage, so I think the turtle knife impact damage is old. So maybe the wire was causing the clicking i heard. I've found no obvious cause yet, and now there is no clicking.

The cutter bar does have a pretty good amount of compound backlash. It looks to me to be about 45 degrees from the time hub 1 turns until the hat turtle turns (I havent taken that one off yet). So turtle 1 rotates about 45 degrees before the hat turtle begins to move.

I'm assuming the drive shaft is twisted, as normally happens apparently in these NI 5209 mowers but I'd rather not replace the drive shaft if it isnt necessary yet. The operator's manual addresses alignment but doesnt go quite so far as to talk about alignment when a fairly twisted driveshaft is involved.


So a couple of questions for you folks with the same or otherwise similar models.

Question 1: At what point should a twisted driveshaft be replaced? How much twist is acceptable and what is the best way to measure it?

Question 2: Since the hubs can be aligned in 7 degree increments (or whatever the number is) can I manually rotate the pto shaft to get the number 1 hub parallel to the bar assembly and the slack out of all the others like when the bar is cutting, then align the #2 hub (with the slight offset as required), then continue with #3, #4, etc, aligning all the hubs parallel to the bar assembly so that when I install the turtles everything lines up properly? Will I be able to operate the mower like this for some time before eventually needing to replace the cutterbar driveshaft?

Question 3: Is this mower doomed for an immediate driveshaft replacement or is it likely to run for years? I'm cutting a little shy of 100 acres per year of orchard grass.

New Idea 5209 cutterbar alignment with twisted driveshaft

430 john deere baler

As I am baleing the tie arm is slowly engaging it starts to engage when the bale size reads 2 then it very slowly moves till the bale is about 4 and half then it goes through its cycle. Any ideas why it is doing this.

430 john deere baler

Rake tire

Any reason a 6x15 tire cannot be usend instead of an existing 5x15 tire on a 15"rim? There is plenty of clearance.

Rake tire

Grazing and Haying Restrictions

Handy little chart agronomist sent me the other day

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Grazing and Haying Restrictions

New holland baler tailgate problem

I am having trouble with my new holland 7060 baler the tailgate works great for the first 20-25 bales then after that the tailgate will not open properly. I have to work the hydraulic handle on the tractor back and forth before it will open. It has done this pn two differt tractors. Any suggestions

New holland baler tailgate problem

Weed wipe Milkweed with Roundup...dry grass stems?

Ok, I have a patch of milkweed in a grass hayfield that is growing in size. It has already flowered but I wouold like to kill it dead with roundup. In a few spots the dried grass seed stems are fairly tall and might get hit by the wiper. My question is whether the roundup will transmit down through the very dry stems and kill the grass plants?

Weed wipe Milkweed with Roundup...dry grass stems?

new holland 648 twine problems

I have a 648 that's making me crazy. One thing it does, the twine gets balled up behind the plug on end of twine arms, I replaced both twine arm ends last year with new ones and thought maybe they had too many sharper corners so put old ones back on which are more rounded but still have the same problem. Don't know if this is a problem with the twine or what, I've been using Titan twine for quite a while and the problem started last year.

 Another problem is if the twine doesn't start on the bale the tail on end of the twine arm sometime looks like it was cut off at the end of the arm, I've tightened up the tension on the plug several times and it doesn't seem to make any difference. And these problems seem to go from side to side not just one side, was wondering if the stuffer could cut off the twine before it gets caught up on the bale. Have gone from no tension on the plates in the twine box to just enough to hold the twine tight and it doesn't make a difference either way. Getting kinda frustrating. 

new holland 648 twine problems

H&S 2112 Action Rake

Has anyone on here ever used one of these and if so what do you think of it? Thanks

H&S 2112 Action Rake

Need help rebuilding cutterbar on Krone disc mower

I have a 283s that has some bad spur gears in cutterbar. I have had alot of these Krone's and i always thought the right side had a end plate. To take off and slide gears out but i could not understand why the parts manual did not show a end plate. Now i am finding out all the gears have to come out of the bottom round hole under the cutterbar gearbox.

So first you pull big round plug under gearbox? Then you take  spur gear off of gearbox shaft and that lets you slide the rest of the gears out right? Or do i have to remove the cutterbar from the gearbox to slide gears out? Please tell me no because it will be easier to just leave disc mower hooked to tractor and rebuild it that way.

Please Help!

Need help rebuilding cutterbar on Krone disc mower

Hay brokers near Dallas,east texas

Does anyone know of any brokers in the Dallas east Texas area

Hay brokers near Dallas,east texas

Irrigation who has used water reels sprinklers

I ended up buying 2 kifco water reels at a auction that look like they have not been used in several years but are in ok shape and I think with a little work they will be good to go. I would like to know any feed back on anybody that used or used one like how well they work and what type of pump and water source did you use. Thanks for any info

Irrigation who has used water reels sprinklers

Hesston 4590 wire tie issues

Our baler breaks a bale every 10th bale or so. Anyone else had an issue like this with a Hesston inline wire tie? Changed brands of wire, no groves in knotter or feeds. Any help appreciated

Hesston 4590 wire tie issues

Year manufactured

I am trying to find out what year this tractor was manufactured.

Leyland Vehicle limited
Tractor Model 154D
Serial Number 54D 16303

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Year manufactured

America’s Top 25 Beef Cow Counties

https://www.drovers.com/article/americas-top-25-beef-cow-counties-page-2

 

I was kind of surprised to see Fremont County in the top 20, although there are a lot of cattle here during the winter.  I wonder if there numbers include everything for the entire year. 

America’s Top 25 Beef Cow Counties

Vermeer 2800 rake surging

I have a Vermeer 2800 twin rake. Whenever it runs, the hydraulic motors that run each basket will surge, every few seconds or so. There is a hydraulic block where the hydraulic lines run thru, and there is a relief valve installed into it as well. When it is surging, you can hear the relief bypassing some oil. I am running this rake with a Magnum 210, so it should be putting out enough flow. I am assuming It has something to do with the pressure and flow compensation built into the tractor, but I’m not sure. This is the second tractor we have had the rake on, and the same results every time. Any help would be appreciated.

Vermeer 2800 rake surging

Hestton 5585 rounder

I have a guy who has a hesston 5585 rounder with the moniter. Hasn't been used in several years told me to come get it and bring it home and try it bf I buy it...I'm not a real big operation but I usually have about 40 rolled rolled by a neighbor a year and I square bale about 1400 a year and guy gave me real good price on it was wondering what are some of the thing I need to look for when going threw it and seeing how it works....

Hestton 5585 rounder

On suicide watch!

Dear God, nothings working!! My JD 567 arms will not clear to go under the bale to tie. Have 100 acres down to get baled before it rains tomorrow. It did this once before years ago, but i don't remember what i did to get it to stop blocking the arms. Over the last couple years, my alarms have quit sounding for 'near full' and 'full' bale, and occasionally i get the battery icon on the controller. Please help.

On suicide watch!

New Holland round baler won’t make max pressure

Asking for somebody else who has a CIH RB454.  With the density adjustment valve cranked all the way up it used to show 2000 on the gauge, now it will only show 1500 psi.  Any ideas? Thanks!

New Holland round baler won’t make max pressure

Large square bale wrappers.

Hi, I'm a new guy to this site,could use some opinions. Anyone have experience with individual 3×3 square wrappers? I own an economy model and see it's time to look for an upgrade. Looking at Mchale 995 or Anderson 780. Anything else out there?

Large square bale wrappers.

Hoelscher 120 series hay grapple with NH 1033 Bale Wagon

We have a 1033 Bale Wagon and it stacks 3 wide by 7 high stacks where the bales are unloaded with strings in the stack and cut end facing up. We are looking at purchasing a Hoelscher Hay grapple possibly series 120,150 or 180 depending on feedback. We have a 60x120 hay barn with 2- 20' doors on one end and a 60' opening on the other. We haven't started using the barn yet but plan to stack our hay in the barn in rows and are interested in purchasing the Hoelscher grapple as a way to pull a layer from the stack to load onto a customer's trailer. Can you tell me if the Hoelscher grapple can grab bales that are in stacks put up by a 1033 bale wagon? I can't find any information to say it can or can. Additionally and JUST as important, can you use the Hoelscher grapple to pull from either side of the stack (front or side)? Here is the link to the Hoelscher we are looking at: http://www.hoelscherinc.com/prod_stackforks.htm . This is my first post on this site so I'm hoping I picked the right forum and get some feedback. I love this haytalk site. Gives great information!  Thanks y'all!

Hoelscher 120 series hay grapple with NH 1033 Bale Wagon

Hoelscher 120 series hay grapple with NH 1033 Bale Wagon

We have a 1033 Bale Wagon and it stacks 3 wide by 7 high stacks where the bales are unloaded with strings in the stack and cut end facing up. We are looking at purchasing a Hoelscher Hay grapple possibly series 120,150 or 180 depending on feedback. We have a 60x120 hay barn with 2- 20' doors on one end and a 60' opening on the other. We haven't started using the barn yet but plan to stack our hay in the barn in rows and are interested in purchasing the Hoelscher grapple as a way to pull a layer from the stack to load onto a customer's trailer. Can you tell me if the Hoelscher grapple can grab bales that are in stacks put up by a 1033 bale wagon? I can't find any information to say it can or can. Additionally and JUST as important, can you use the Hoelscher grapple to pull from either side of the stack (front or side)? Here is the link to the Hoelscher we are looking at: http://www.hoelscherinc.com/prod_stackforks.htm . This is my first post on this site so I'm hoping I picked the right forum and get some feedback. I love this haytalk site. Gives great information!  Thanks y'all!

Hoelscher 120 series hay grapple with NH 1033 Bale Wagon

Non herbicide buttercup control

Here in northern Vermont, virtually all the hay land has been invaded with buttercups. We have had a couple of wet spells, and I do understand that buttercups thrive in poorly drained, compacted soil which has been overgrazed.  However, it is affecting everybody and almost all grass stands.  Having said that, my previous control methods haven't done a thing this year. I do a small rotational grazed beef operation. Normally, I lime, cut the buttercups after the cattle leave a paddock (mower set about 4") and try not to overgraze, but this year is terrible--honestly more buttercups than grass and where I have clipped, they are growing faster than the grass.  I sell hay to an organic producer and the land is certified, so I can't use herbicides.

What I am trying this year on a test plot was to harrow the field, seed with buckwheat to produce a green manure which I hope will shade out the buttercups as they try to come back and then graze it off in Sept. and seed to a pasture mix.  In another field, I am going to bush hog it down, do some subsoiling and plant some tillage radishes in the most compacted part.  I don't know how this is going to go.  The only part of the farm that doesn't look like a stand of buttercups is hayfield which get 2-3 cuts and only minimal grazing.

Any useful experience would be great to hear about.  Thanks

Non herbicide buttercup control

Circle C Conditioner Roll Failure

This past winter we bought a complete Cricle C conditioner setup for our older Deere swather. So far we have put a little over 50 hours on it (header hours). All has been well until yesterday the swather started smelling like burnt rubber. We looked everything over and couldn't find any problems so we kept cutting. Two hours later and we notice that the windrow looks funny. We get out and find that a foot wide strip of rubber peeled off the center of the top roller. Called Circle C and they are trying to put the blame on us saying that something must have jammed in the header and scrubbed the rubber off. While I could see this as a possibility on the bottom roller, there is a foot of clearance around the top roller on all sides so there is no way something could have "jammed" in it.

 

Has anyone had this happen or heard of this happening to anyone? My guess is they goofed up on surface prep on this roller and the rubber didn't get stuck quite right in this spot...

 

Anyways, Bryce was good about helping us get back up and running by rapping the roll in duct tape (yes, we did, and yes, it seems to be working), but has yet to own up to the possibility of any fault and isn't willing to even cost share the $3500 to recover the rollers.

 

Any experience with Circle C or their products in this situation? I really hope they come around as they make a good product, but we can't afford to have a failure after 50 hours and have the only solution be to shell out another $3500 after we just dropped almost $8K...

Circle C Conditioner Roll Failure

Kuhn’s Accumulator questions

I keep going back and forth about a Kuhn’s accumulator, have been for a couple of years. I know I want one, but a question I have for those that own them. Can you dump the accumulator without it being full? I’m sure I could rig something up but I feel I’d like that option at times. Just thinking out loud, it’s a good chunk of change to spend, I want to make sure I’ll be happy with it.

Kuhn’s Accumulator questions

NH688 w/Bale Command II Ejecting a 32 inch bale

Due to continuing thunderstorms and my desire to put up top quality hay, I have decided to turn the cows out on the remainder of the hay ground and have an extended grazing season rather than market horse quality grass hay that isn't what I would call "horse quality'. I cleaned up what I cut and ended with a 32-34 in diameter bale in the chamber. I have a Net Wrap only NH688 baler and the manual says I can not wrap anything less than 42 inches. Further it says trying to wrap less than 42 inches can damage the knife, etc.

 

Given this warning, how can I eject the bale without damaging anything?

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

Jerry

NH688 w/Bale Command II Ejecting a 32 inch bale

Cracked Casting/Cover

Hey.....Attached are a couple of pictures that show a hairline crack in the Casting/Cover at the rear of the transmission on my 05 RTV. The crack runs from the bolt at 9, down to 7, and then across and up to 5 and 3 OClocks………...It is a very fine hairline but leaks enough fluid in a few days to be a real problem with running the trans dry and the expense of replacement fluid or trans...……..
I am going to try some JB Weld on the crack externally, a coating; but doubt if that will actually work.
What is behind that cover so if and when I pull the 6 bolts is something gonna fly out or go out of adjustment or the like????????……….Thanks for the thoughts...…….

Am trying to load some pics but having a hard time. A quick description so I can get some, hopefully thoughts...…..The cover is at the very rear of the transmission, immediately to the left of the oil filter. It has 6 bolts holding it, has a webbed indention that comes out with an allen wrench hex head something in the middle of it...…...

Cracked Casting/Cover