Are wheel rakes considered ground driven or crop driven. i was thinking the other day about this and if they are ground driven they would need to touch the ground, however if they can also be considered crop driven and one has a high stubble height then the teeth would not need to be on the ground. Thoughts?
I have a stand of alfalfa thats a few years old and has some fall panicum along with foxtail that comes up through it in the later cuttings. I plan on seeding some orchard grass into the alfalfa to make it a mixed grass field, is there anything I can use to spray for the grass yet still be able to get orchard grass drilled into it this fall?
This is going to be my first year using hay guard on my small squares. Planning not using it all the time but when the window is tight. For being honest do you guys tell your customers that you have acid on your bales? I know its a choice of moldy hay and good hay. I want to be honest when I take the stuff to auctions. Its all grass/alfafa mix . Just want to hear peoples experiences. Thanks steve
Hi
I have a small hay operation and make small square bales. It has gotten harder to find reliable buyers for first cutting. So I pay to have the big square baler come in. It cost me $10.00 a bale to make. Have guy come in and buy all the big squares at $40.00 so I really get $30.00 a bale. Last year sold off 150 big sq 7 foot long = $4500.
If I could have sold the hay off in small SQ it wood look like this. 150 big X 17 small = one big 7 footer. = $7650.
I see $7650 - $4500 = $3150 loss
I have an open building to use. I could store hay until winter months and sell for more. Or could use the hay to feed beef.
The building is 40 X 80. Thought I could feed how many steers or heifers with 150 bales a year?
If the better option is to raise beef. Than what is the best breed to raise?
Thank you in advance.
hey guys, one of my hay fields is being taken over by plantain, dock, and henbit (not to worried about the henbit as it will die in summer). The hay field is fescue, orchard, and some timothy. We have always used 2,4-d, but after finding this website, I thought it might be worth it to get the consensus on the best herbicide or regiment for the field. We have been paying a company to do our spraying, but i'm looking at getting my sprayer operational again. We will be spraying this week. Should i continue with the 2,4-d, use weedmaster, or maybe even p+d or grazonNext? I do sell some hay but most is used to feed cattle and no cattle compost is used. Would the residuals of p+d be worth it? Should I consider spraying in the fall as well, and with what? At what rate should the 2,4-d be applied(1 pt per acre or 2pt per)? Thanks for any and all help.
If you're looking at used equipment, would you travel one, two, three or many states away to purchase something? Do you generally find that equipment through online searches or some print pub?
Thanks.
Lynn
I am having a terrible outbreak of hen bit in a fall/spring grass planting. The grasses that I spring planted(Timothy/Orchard) are in the 3/4 tiller stage. I am unsure with what herbicide to use that will not affect hay with long term residuals....like Grazon, Remedy, etc. The herbs that I normally use 2-4d etc. fair poorly on hen bit. Am I overlooking something for treatment.
I think that the hen bit got too much of a late fall germination jump due to the very slow fall germination of my grass seed due to the excessive drought that we were under at the time of seeding.
Regards, Mike
Kinda shopping for a pull type spreader. We have a truck mounted BBI so spreading isn't new to us, just interested in your preferences in brands and experiences. Know we want to still be able to spread lime too.
We're about 17 miles from chicken houses and will have litter hauled here instead of road time for each load and can spread smaller loads around the weather.
Would like to find a used one in good condition at appropriate price but new is not out of the question. When I have a little more time I'll tell you the story about setting up the truck we have now.
Shelia
Hello. I am looking for advice and I am hoping that someone on this forum can help me.
Let me start by saying that I know absolutely nothing about row crops. I have raised a few backyard gardens over the years that would probably rank 5 on a scale of 1-10. I do have limited knowledge of cattle as I grew up working summers on my grandfather’s farm. I have a tractor and a bush hog that I know how to use but that’s about the limit of my farming knowledge.
I recently purchased 12 acres which has been used for row crops over the past several years. The previous owner who lives out of state has allowed a local farm to use the property for farming (hand shake agreement). I have been trying for a week or so to get in touch with the farmer with no luck. When I bought the property, I am embarrassed to admit that I thought (assumed) that it had been sowed in grass like Kentucky 31. I now believe that it is sowed in some type of cover crop, maybe wheat or rye grass. Someone applied lime to the field about a week ago, and I have not been able to track them down. I have attached some pictures and would really appreciate someone confirming this.
My intentions for the property are to build a barn and repair fences this fall and I would like to buy some cattle next Spring. I need to convert this winter wheat to pasture ASAP. I don’t really know the best course of action to make this happen. I would rather keep costs to a minimum.
I have no idea of the value of the wheat crop that is currently growing. Does it make sense to allow it to grow and let someone harvest it? Is there a possibility that someone would pay me for the crop?
Should I go ahead and overseed with perennial grasses now?
Let me add that I don't need the best pasture in the county. I just need something that works keeping cost to a minimum.
Please help!
Thanks so much in advance.
Does anyone want to, or know anyone that would, spend the summer putting up custom small squares in Northwest Wyoming. 72 miles from Yellowstone NP. Long hours, good pay. Old equipment. Family environment. Challenging haying conditions.
I might even consider buying a camper for someone to stay in, if it would help. There has to be someone who knows a young person that might want to see a different part of the world for the summer.
Of course, they would have to know which end of the grease gun goes on the zerk, and be able to get the job done.
I have advertised locally and we are taking resumes currently. I figured I would throw it on here, if nothing else as a good conversation starter this morning.
Wanting to know the average amount of bales you can get on 1 roll of net wrap and what brands are good and what brands are good to stay away from
Looking at a New Holland 1034 Stackliner with a buddy tomorrow. He is interested in trying it this year, mainly with straw, but possibly with some hay as well. Anything specific to look for on this model. I know it has a lot of age, and seemingly a lot of moving parts with chains, bearings, and hydraulics, but I've never seen one in person and would appreciate any tips you fella's can provide.
Im looking at buying a new holland 650 round baler what are they like to they make a good solid bale. How do they go in silage. Also looking at a new holland D1210 large square baler what are thoughts on them.
any in put on a hesston 845 round baler? Looking at one with 8000 bales on it with net wrap. really goog shape. i do 800-1000 bales a year.
Discbines and hayfields with rocks....
Anyone dealing with rocks in their hayfields when they are cutting with their discbine?
Are you finding rocks in your hay fields from having plowed prior to planting, glacial type rocks that just get pushed up to the surface or no rocks at all as once a stand of hay is established, there's none to be concerned about?
I'm thinking damage caused by rocks when I ask this question. Rocks flying out of machines, rocks being picked up and running through the rollers knocking chunks of rubber, damaging steel on steel rolls bending or making them useless or rocks taking out flails or even damaging the gear bed.
How much trouble do you have with rocks and your discbine and why/what is the source of the rocks in the field in the first place?
We are no-till and really don't have any rocks, however, if you put a plow in the ground an inch, we are the Saudi Arabia of rocks anywhere from the size of a small potato to a basketball.
Just curious.
Thanks!
Bill
Was talking with a hay grower/broker and he said at one auction some buyers wanted to know if RR or not.They even wanted it listed on the load.I had not heard of this other then organic hay.SOME dairies claiming better milk production from non RR alfalfa.He said another dairy was paying $100 acre more for conv corn silage claiming better milk production.
Hello all, just got an idea to get a big square baler. Currently just make small squares, but looking to do more straw and have a local outfit that may want some custom straw baled. What are decent older big square models? what is the benefit of 3x3 or 3x4? Can you put 3 wide 3x3 on a semi or would a 3x4 be the ticket? I have seen some sell for 10-20$k which isn't too bad, but are they junk? Would think early on maybe put up3-4k bales a year. Educate me please-thanks!
We recently purchased a property that has 8 acres of field that has been cut for hay in years past. Over the years the field has not been fertilized or limed. It is currently fescue. I plan on adding lime and fertilizer according to the soil sample results.
In late summer should I plant fescue or orchard grass. The guy that has been cutting it says orchard grass. Also he says the very best he could do on an agreement is 80/20 even if I lime, fertilize and plant? Does this sound right? Picture below
Thanks!
From DTN by John Harrington.
Regards, Mike
Leased a place that had cattle on it last year to make hay on this year. They hadn't done anything with most of it since August, so some weeds and stemmy briars had popped up but still has good stand of grass. I put some urea and sprayed it a few weeks ago and plan to run a bush hog over it to knock those dead weeds and briars down.
I don't want to bale up those things if possible so what do yall think my best bet would be on the raking to prevent that stuff being picked up? Rollabar or rotary? Don't have either but could find one if it would help. Thanks.
Not sure if this is the right place, but I will ask anyways.
I am looking for a mobile app to download and or buy that will work best for spraying and spreading fertilizer. I have some hay fields that range in size from 2 acres to 20 acres and I have a smaller 3pt hitch sprayer that I would like to start spraying myself, especially on the smaller fields. I have seen some apps that show basically position and passes and overlaps. any thoughts? it doesn't need to be super accurate, but its better than guessing or buying a foam marker kit. im a small operation and just wanting to try and better myself.
thanks.
Agriculture took the third highest cut in the Trump budget.....sounds about right to me.
Regards, Mike
This graph was take from the Washington Post.
What will happen with SA trading partners?
Regards, Mike
I have a NH 630 that i need all new belts for. Wheres a good place to get them? Local NH dealer is 280 a belt.
Well thanks to you folks I pulled the trigger on a 604sm for my 4 foot wide bales. Any idea where I can get a silage kit for it? Thank you!
So now have BR7090 for 5 foot bales and 604sm for 4 foot bales. Looking forward to hay season.
I'm currently using a small NH Stackliner to pick up small bales in the field. I place pallets on the Stackliner and unload directly in a tall barn with a concrete floor. Got the pallet idea from this forum, works great ....thanks. I sell hay directly out of the barn.
Now I'm trying to figure out the best, and cheapest, way to load customers trucks and trailers. I'd also like the flexibility to be able to use the same equipment to unload semi's so that I can expand the variety of hay I sell.
I know I'm going to need to purchase additional equipment, but I'm not sure what the best way to go is. I'll probably need a grapple but my current Tractors (MF 1742 & MF 135) aren't big enough, or the front end loader on the 1742 doesn't reach high enough. Lately I've been thinking a used forklift (they seem readily available) with a grapple somehow attached might be a good way to go but I'm certainly open to other options. My budget is about $8,000 for the package.
Any thoughts would certainly be appreciated.
Hello
I have some questions regarding T-85. Here is a little background info. I sprigged 15 acres last March 2016 with T-85. The field is located in Fayette count Texas, blackland mostly, used to be a corn field, soil samples were taken, ground prep was done according to TAMU recommendations ( website), post sprigging we had more than enough rainfall, sprayed 3 weeks later with Brash, fertilized with recommended formula and rate. Had real spotty to no coverage in some areas, but it was up and growing with runners 2-3ft long. Fast forward to now and.
So I have T-85 that is growing, runners from last year appear dead as they are not greening up, there is a fair amount of common Bermuda growing and spreading also, I have already fertilized with again recommended formula and rate, this made both common Bermuda and T-85 really perk up and start running, do have some weeds starting to grow.
My question are: Will the T-85 out compete the common Bermuda and take cover or will the common Bermuda keep the t-85 from covering? I am sure hoping that the T-85 will to some degree choke out the other stuff.
Being that this is a new stand I am wondering whats best to spray the weeds with, looking for something with residual ( I think this will be best- maybe not) , but do not want to stunt the growth or burn it. ex Grazon p+d, Grazon Next HL, Weedmaster.
Should I keep fertilizing it or let whats growing (root in)? - would like for it to run as much as possible before it gets really hot and while we have good moisture.
All help, suggestions and even criticism (lol) is welcome.
Thanks in advance,
Jason
Most are aware of how the dairy industry has changed and struggled to be profitable. There are a host of reasons....but customer attitudes are a huge driving force. So much information is immediately available to most in this country.....and that influences greatly what we eat and drink.
I think every single one of us have had members somewhere in our families that have struggled brutally with Alzheimers....a vicious and devastating brain disorder. We would all like to see this dreaded disease eliminated.
The following article talks about how diet may affect your chances of fighting off this disease.....and unfortunately dairy products are being finger pointed. It is a interesting read....take it for what it is worth to you.
Regards, Mike
After about 36 years my MF 120 baler still works beautifully, seldom missing a bale. However, I've discovered that the bushing on the shaft to the hay pick-up (the one on the inner side next to the sprocket that drives it) is completely worn through. There is also some wear to the shaft itself.
I'm going to put in a new bushing but it will obviously fit slack on the shaft unless I can repair that.
Unfortunately, the entire pick-up assembly has welded plates on both sides and I can't figure how to take it apart.
Any advice of how to proceed would be appreciated.
Thanks!
I have an alfalfa field that is getting thin due to number of years since planting. I would like to stretch out its life for another season and am considering interseeding. What results can I expect by planting oats, barley or teff? Last summer I planted teff in a field that had alfalfa previously and it was a great crop. Good sales and we now have customers who says they will buy every bale of teff I can produce. As you know, teff costs more than cereal grains, but I am more interested in the final result than the price of seed. Also, I do not know what rate to plant oats, barley or teff in the field to supplement it. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Starting to building a backup hay wagon attachment for skidsteer. we all see the quick change plates with receiver for trailer backing up. But they are all stationary, mine is going to go back and forth. This way I can drive straight and move hay wagon pole. I find myself wasting so much time jockeying the wagons. I know most people will think I'm nuts but if this works no onw will backup a wagon faster than this attachment. Is the way I see it now.
Anyone ever see this done before? A friend said get a patent. I'm sure it has been taken. Just want to speed up my operation.
New farmer and new forum member, First post:
Had a heckava time irrigating 50 acres with dirt canal. Learned about, throwing siphon pipes, breakouts, failed checks and needing rubber boots and shoveled many yards of dirt and mud moving water! LOL
almost 4 months now getting hot, 55-60 at night, 85-90 during the day. Yeah you guessed it, Arizona! near Maricopa, outside Phoenix metropolitan.
Most of the field is at flag leaf stage, Just got warm 10 days ago. I think heat is slowing down the growth slightly. I have been told cutting at the boot stage is best for horses. We have a lot of those in Scottsdale
Took random samples all over the field. Most flag leafs are just emerging now, 10-20 percent are all the way out, only found one oat plant with a boot bulge,
How long do you think it will be before the oats are in FULL BOOT? And how long until the oats pass the boot stage??
Thanks for any suggestions!!!!
Starting to building a backup hay wagon attachment for skidsteer. we all see the quick change plates with receiver for trailer backing up. But they are all stationary, mine is going to go back and forth. This way I can drive straight and move hay wagon pole. I find myself wasting so much time jockeying the wagons. I know most people will think I'm nuts but if this works no onw will backup a wagon faster than this attachment. Is the way I see it now.
Anyone ever see this done before? A friend said get a patent. I'm sure it has been taken. Just want to speed up my operation.
Destruction of world record cropland.....where is the "liberal outrage" now?.....chasing after chickens no doubt.
Regards, Mike
I just bought 90 Coastal Bermuda rd bales that were baled by a NH rd baler. The bales were advertised as from same cutting & same field. Why are the bale diameters so noticeably different diameters?? I fully understand how windrow size & ground speed affect bale diameters but I doubt these 2 factors will change that much in same flat field. I check weighed one GN load of 17 bales and they weighed an average of 991#s
Thanks,Jim
It was recently announced that AGCO was buying Lely's forage division. The buyout is just an everyday thing in this day and age, but I am concerned about our Vermeer friends. I have not heard, at this point, what Lely and Vermeer's relationship will be in the future as that was not disclosed in the press release. I hate to see competition disappear as it makes everyone better. Has anyone heard what the future holds?
I live in SW Oklahoma, currently I do not own any baling equipment (working on it), what's everyone's opinion on the split on 17-20 acres of native grass? 50-50 or something else?
Saw this list of John Deere plants in the U.S. and what they manufacture.
Does anyone have any experience with this system yet? And if so advantages / disadvantages would be appreciated. I don't know if I could get the results back fast enough in my area.
http://ift.tt/2n71nAL
Larry
Our bud got a demolition contract to remove two motors and transmissions plus pumps from the local water company. On my trailer waiting for buyer from Mexico. We had to have our well/pump guy bring his large pump rig to set it on the trailer!
So over the weekend I pulled the trigger on a different tedder 2015 KW 7.82/6x7. It had been used one season and then traded back in and had sat on the lot for a year before I got it. It is in really good shape and the dealership said it was field ready and everything worked, I had a six hour drive ahead of me and so since it looked in great shape I had them load me up and got back on the road. The next day when I had time I hooked it up to my tractor (6610 New Holland) and I could unfold the wings but I couldn't get it to tilt. Yesterday I hooked it up to my other tractor a 2-135 White and still no tilt. I tried to adjust the tines manually just to get a little more clearance but could only manage about a turn or to because it turned so hard. I was wondering if someone on here might be able give me some insight on what the issue might be.
Have a IH 47 baler that needs the knotter assembly rebuilt or replace. Nearest case dealership said case doesn't have parts for them and I am better off junking it. Any advice?
Hello again. I am a novice farmer on a family farm that I inherited from my dad. We have 200 acres of fields. Some of these fields are showing white from salt crusting. I have improved the drainage of my fields. Now I want to know if planting barley will help the alkali level in my soil Also, I am wanting to know if I can plant a combination of barley and peas in this same alkaline field with the ultimate goal of cutting and baling in small two-wire bales. I am constrained by the equipment I currently have. I no longer have a the ability to chop corn for silage. I have rotary windrower and baler that produces small square bales. Currently I have 25 heifers with calves (for beef) and so am also thinking of feed for them. Also I have a market for alfalfa hay and oat hay. Over the past two years I have sold every single bale I produced. I think I can sell barley hay without too much trouble. I live in New Mexico near the Navajo Reservation. A lot of my customers raise sheep on the reservation and like oat hay and I think they will also buy the barley hay.
The bottom line for me right now is what can I do to improve the condition of my soil?
I am in search of a round baler or a large square baler that our John Deere 7610 (120 pto HP) can run. Most customers where I am located wants 5x5 or 5x6 round bales or large square bales. I am used to 4x5 or 4x6 round bales but they are hard to sell up here in Nebraska. We do Barley and Wheat straw, Alfalfa, Orchard grass/ timothy/white clover mix, and prairie hay. I know everyone has their opinion on what size bales they produce, but I have to do what demand wants. Thanks!
We had the used DewEze bale bed installed on our truck last week. It works like a dream. For our operation this was the right way to go, sure beats having to come home from work and fire the tractor up.
Saw this on a FB page, must be making a little money and not enough help....
Just retired (Wildl. Biol.) & am going to try haying our 25 acres (grass) myself (sickle mower & wheel rake). Others have done it for last 23 years. I want round bales as squares are difficult to move with 1 arm (AE). Our fields are flat & my tractor is 4600 lbs but puts out only 45 PTO horsepower.
Can anyone recommend an appropriate round baler (preferably used) for this application? I’d like bales as large as possible but realize low hp balers seldom produce >4x4 bales. I have moved 1000+ lb bales with the tractor & fabricated hay spear on bucket.
Also, is anyone aware of a resource that helps make sense model numbers or provides detailed specs of Ag equipment? I’m new at this & seldom are hp requirements/capability posted for equipment & fewer distinguish between PTO & flywheel hp.
Somedevildawg; I thought a more detailed explanation of your problems might be of some help. Low voltage can manifest itself in various ways on these balers. The most common I have run into is the duckbill does not return to the home position and thus the knife is not activated to cut the net. If the knife did activate it would hit the duckbill. What happens is the duckbill motor cannot overcome the tension being applied to the net roll brake. As the duckbill returns to the home position the duckbill must pull additional net from the roll. What you should see on the operators panel, after the audible alarm sounds, is a symbol of the duckbill. In the upper left corner will be a code number. You can look the codes up in the bale command operators manual. The problem with the code that is displayed is it does not indicate what you need to do in order to get back to baling. If you turn the operator’s panel off and back on a different code will be displayed indicating the duckbill is not in the home position. Now you know in order to get the duckbill back to the home position you need to use the up wrap button on the operator’s panel.
If the update being done is one from NH and not one the dealer is doing on his own in an attempt to help you, then a heavier return spring is being installed on the right side of the duckbill so more force is applied to return the duckbill. Along with the tractor power cord and the broadening of the amperage draw you should not experience this problem. I have updated some balers that were not included in the program, because they did not manifest the problem, with just the power cord and software upgrade and have not seen where the heavier spring was needed, at least so far.
I want to give you a possible explanation of why you are not seeing an error when the net is not being cut. I have rode with numerous operators over the years and the operation of stopping, wrapping and ejection flow naturally after you have operated a baler for an extended period of time. The full bale alarm sounds, clutch is depressed or shuttle lever moved to neutral, right hand moves to remote lever, sitting in seat thinking about a million different things waiting for the alarm to sound indicating the bale is ready for ejection, alarm sounds and right hand automatically on it’ own opens the tailgate and ejects the bale. But wait, the alarm did sound but can you tell me if the alarm was a short beep or a long tone before the hand ejected the bale. When a bale is successfully completed you will hear a long tone, if you hear beep, beep, beep then there is an error. Most people I have seen do not realize the difference since the sound is the same only the length of time and repeating is different. They hear the alarm an open the tailgate automatically.
I have not seen a net knife motor stall but it is possible if there is binding in the knife frame. This did occur on some 2014 balers, first production of the roll belts balers, and is something I check on predelivery. On the early models the pivot straps that are welded to the knife support were welded extra heavy in spots. This weld could rub on the side sheet by the knife motor. The side sheet is radius so the net knife can rotate. The weld would rub on this radius. Another possible drag is the link between the knife motor and the knife. An arm is attached to the motor on one end and a pin is attached at the other end. The pin is 90 degrees to the arm and protrudes through the knife pivot plate. Some pins came loose and moved towards the baler side sheet causing an additional load on the knife motor. Some tolerance buildup could also cause the pin to extend farther and rub the side sheet. This can be checked visually and if the pin is rubbing the side sheet then grind the pin to gain clearance. The motor is bolted to the side frame with two bolts. Remove the spring attached to the knife assy and remove the two bolts to remove the motor. Now you can rotate the knife by hand to see if there is any binding during the knife’s rotation.
It is possible for the knife to stall at the full up position. If the system does not see the net being cut when it expects the net to be cut, it will cut power to the motor and not return the knife to the home position. This usually occurs when you lose tension on the net, but it could also be caused by crop build up on the knife so the knife cannot cut the net. I have not checked the newest software if this has changed.
Speaking of software. Update 3 for the NH dealers EST has two additional options included for the roll belt balers that can be used or not used as needed. The first is the ability to stop the duckbill in a precut position, like the BRs. This is to help the net spread out and eliminate wear to the duckbill. The second is a knife shake feature which I assume is to shake material off the knife if it should build up on the knife. I have not seen this problem, but evidently it is a problem in some crops, Cornstalks come to mind where this might be useful.
While I hate to see balers get more complicated with controllers and can bus systems, but the positive of the new systems is you can add features to a baler or correct problems by changing the software.
Insufficient net being applied is strange. I have not seen it and I could not find any information about it. If an error was generated then it is possible the net just tore. This also goes back to my earlier comments on how an error alarm can occur and the operator not realize it. Since the duckbill goes back to the home position after insertion and the net knife never left it’s home position there will not be an error shown on the operator’s panel after the bale has been ejected and the tailgate closed. A net pull test needs to be done to see how much tension is being applied to the net roll brake. The net pull test is supposed to be done by your dealer as part of the update being done to your baler. If no error was generated then I would recalibrate the empty bale chamber. This information is in the bale command operators manual. If you cannot find the information I can look it up for you. Also included in the NH update is a different brake pad and brake disc so a more consistent brake tension can be maintained. The brake pad is the same, the disc is the same except the braking surface no longer has the plating to prevent rust. The surface is also machined.so the brake disc turns true. Necessary? I don't know, I have not seen an issue with the original parts.
With the addition of the power cord and the software upgrade there is a need to replace one of the fuses in the harness which remains with the tractor. The harness has two fuses, a 5A and a 25A. The 25A needs to be replaced with a 30A fuse. This should be supplied to you in the update being done.
The system stores most of the fault codes generated. To access these codes, press the program/enter button, use the down arrow button to item 5. There will be an exclamation point along with the number 5. Once item 5 is highlighted press the program/enter key to open the fault code history. You will see the codes that have been generate, how many times and the bale count of the last time that code was generated. This might give some insight if a fault code was generated when the net was not cut.
The only other update not already mentioned is the addition of a different baffle on the duckbill. Again, I don't know if it is necessary. Different areas of the country experience different problems form other regions so when updates come out many bases are covered some of which will deal with problems you have not experienced. What I have seen is the power cord and software updates will have the most effect of all the updates being done.
The pipeline that runs across our farm goes to a device right out of town . Does anyone know what this does
Rotating a couple of fields into new hayfields in prep for some of the older fields to go into a corn/soybean rotation next year. New fields were in corn last year, and was pondering trying to reduce the heavy tillage as we prep it for seeding. In the past, I've generally moldboarded the stover under, then disced and prepped as normal, for those of you who use min/notill for your operations, how do you rotate your fields in without having your first cut be full of stalks?
Need to add good 4 foot wide variable chamber to sell hay this spring. Would you stick with BR series or go with new roll-belt? Thank You. My dad passed away last year and am taking over farm trying to not make to many mistakes. Thanks in advance.
Did any of our members receive this offer from John Deere?
Regards, Mike
My name is Zach Cowan, a representative from John Deere Panel. I am pleased to inform you that you have been specifically selected to participate in a PAID online research study!
Here’s what you need to know:
Who: we’re speaking to John Deere Panel members about the machines they use.
What: a 60-minute interview where you’ll be asked to share your thoughts and feedback directly with John Deere.
When: These sessions will be taking place, from March 07 – March 09
Where: This research opportunity is virtual so you will need access to a computer with a webcam that has a reliable internet connection.
Why: John Deere is looking for feedback from valued customers like you to help inform their brand for continued success in the future. They can’t be successful unless they know what their customers want and need! For your time and participation, you will receive a $100 USD Amazon e-gift card.
Please note we are unable to award incentives based on partial participation. Full participation includes logging on at least 10 minutes before your scheduled interview and a full 60-minute active discussion
This is a great opportunity to have your thoughts heard directly from John Deere to improve the products you use! This interview will be interesting and most of all, fun!
Note: slots are very limited and will be awarded on a first-come first-serve basis. If you are interested, we recommend replying as soon as possible confirming your interest and availability as soon as possible.
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John Deere Panel & Team
Hint, I'm pretty sure its all of them. The first two are pretty good tries and I couldn't figure out that gearbox on the tongue until the last link, they put a flail mower in place of the pickup and chop stalks into the baler.
Found a listing for an auction just a few miles from me. Farmer is retiring and all the equipment is going. The one piece that caught my eye as a potential upgrade was a Gehl 2412 center pivot mower conditioner. What little I've found on the internet about them seems to say they were a good mower, but that parts availability might be an issue. The only information that I know about it so far is:
I know it's a 12 foot cut and I'm assuming it needs one single acting and one double acting hydraulic hookup, but does anyone have any more information on these mowers? Any opinions good, bad or otherwise? Anyone know if parts are still available?
My current mower is a CaseIH 3309 and does a good job, but a center pivot that's a little wider would be nice too.
Thanks in advance, Josh.
The auction listing is here: http://ift.tt/2mnrmkF
I'm looking to trade my HT154 with center kickers for a new 1225 (same rake). On my HT154 it's always a pain hauling it because when it hits bumps no matter how tight I have the locks cranked down the front caster wheels will get turned and shake you up pretty good.
The salesman is telling me I can add an additional wheel kit up front and it will keep the wheels in line and tow much better. We have farms 25 miles apart. Any input on the wheel kit like in the picture? I can see what he is saying, but also could that just be two more wheels that can get out of line hitting bumps while towing?
Here is the link to the options. http://ift.tt/2mpL9Bm
Here is a plan for a small span bridge to use over a deep branch of water etc. Could be handy in the right situation. This is just a light duty span for horses, ATV's etc....not for heavy equipment. From the US Forest Service.
Regards, Mike
Anyone use the titan bale spears. Was looking at one for our skid steer as we need a euro mount quick attach and theres is priced decent 260$ shipped. specifically this type http://ift.tt/2mIZ9r4
We have a 2013 BR7060, that the starter roll has moved over to the left side so that the chains do not ride straight. I have taken the chains and sprocket off and loosened the locking collars but I can't move it over. What am I missing?
Thanks, Luke
Has anyone ever tried to convert a Bahia grass hay field to a Bermuda hay field? If I overseed the Bahia each year with Bermuda will it take over the field?
For those of you who would purchase crop insurance . This would me mostly for row crops . Do you find much diffrence with the providers. Rain and Hail or,,RCISor some of the others like Farmers Mutual Hail . ETC. I am a WARE the premiums will be the same
For those of you that are making a spinkin' tight square bale of hay 14 x 18 cross section - what is your typical weight vs length?
I know there are variables with humidity, but generally speaking, what is your typical bale length vs weight when your baler is really dialed-in and you've got a no-apology needed, nice tight bale of hay in front of your most picky customer?
Tweaking my bale length this year and am curious as to what weight I can expect vs it's length.
Talking about grass hay, not legumes.
Thanks,
Bill
Looking to use/seed either an annual ryegras of teff for hay on some acreage I'm bringing back.. from years of chemical abuse. I have used millet in the past but would like to try something different. Any suggestions will be welcomed... Thanks
What is the best way to get rid of this weed? I am guessing it is narrow leaf or broad leaf plantain. I have a 40-acre stand of non-Roundup-Ready alfalfa that has been infested by this weed. This field is only two years old and I got a good amount of bales from it last summer. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Hi everyone, I have been looking for a set of wheels & tires for the new to me rake, a MH25 3pt rolla bar...
The P/O put a set of wheel barrow wheels & tires on it at some point, they are shorter and smaller than what should be on it me thinks..
I have been searching the web and haven't been able to find what size that should be on it or anyone that offers them..
The rake sits too low in the back now so I need something else..
If anyone has a set on a unused rake let me know, or if someone has a manual I'd take that also, haven't found a operators manual yet either..
Thanks,
Chris
