Any suggestions on a used no till for overseeding. Makes, Models Etc. Thanks
No Till Drill
Any suggestions on a used no till for overseeding. Makes, Models Etc. Thanks
I sold some rained on 2nd cutting alfalfa to a customer that was baled dry with no dew. Also sold him some really nice 4th cutting that was baled with a dew and had nice leaf retention. This is all large square 3x4 bales. Well his cows got out the other day and got into the hay. Guess which bale they ate? Conventional thinking would be the 4th with the leaf retention. Nope they ate the dry 2nd cutting and didnt touch the 4th. Well so much for trying to get him to pay more money for leaf retention. The cows preferred the junk feeder hay. None of the dairys or feedlots here will pay extra for alfalfa baled with leaf retention. They must have already figured this one out.
We had steers at this weeks sale barn. We had what we thought were very nice 400-600 weight offerings. The Brangus blacks with less skin and ear got market highs ($1.81) Blacks with more ear and leather were a bit lower. Our straight Herefords got even less with a couple heifers batting clean-up. These cattle had all been 60 days weaned and well vacinated plus branded back in Feb. The auction sold a bunch of indian (range) cattle around .50 cents! Really hard for them to sell any stock that was not really nice. The Angus influence is what these selective buyers want and will buy, we are going to examine our program and adjust!
I am looking at getting a Agra Tronix BHT-1 or BHT-2 baler mounted hay moisture tester. I am planning on installing it in my small square baler. What is the difference between the two moisture testers . I was reading the BHT-2 has 2 sensor cables and the BHT-1 has only 1.Is there any other brand that I may want to look at. Thanks for the information
Hello I recently bought a 499 the previous owner could not get it to work in reed canary grass I tried it on cover crop ( oats conanla , radish, and turnips ) it would not pull the hay into the rollers at times,same as the guy before ,I have a friend that has had several of these and has never had any trouble like this , I measured his real and mine was as close to the rollers as it could go I set mine the same as his , also the stops for the roller tightness were removed on mine ( they were running as close as they could go ) I have the roller tension set about in the middle , the roller rubber is in good shape , I have not changed the reel speed or the tilt of the head , has any one else had this problem and if so how did you fix it .. I have not tried it since I changed the real , they are predicting rain for about 4 days , just what we do't need now. Thanks Bryan
We have a New Holland 66 square baler that everything works perfectly on except for the Wisconsin 2 cylinder engine that continuously gives us issues. I rebuilt the carb, cleaned the plugs, and it will run for 30 minutes or so before it dies. Then we pull the plugs which are black and fouled and repeat the process. Does anyone have any insight on a fix?
So I have a decent sized hay customer that makes about 30 acres of their own hay and buys the rest of their needs off of me. They approached me a couple of weeks ago and said that they want to quit making their own hay to better use their staff in other areas. They would like me to propose a share deal to make the hay and then sell them my share. We do all cash rents, so this would be new to me, so I have some questions.
What is the typical share percentage if we make the hay and do all the management and fertilization?
What is the share if we split the fertilizer by the share percentage?
Their hay storage barn is in need of replacement and only works for small squares. They asked how the share would change if I hauled all the hay home, stored it, and hauled it back. This is all 3x3's and 10 miles away.
I am sure I have more questions, but can't think of them right now. Would like to figure out how to make this work, because whoever does the share deal haying will get the contract on the rest of the hay needs.
Thanks in advance for any advice,
Tim
Interesting thing happened to me this fall. Redid an orchard grass field, actually it started as mixed grass. Sprayed it with Gly Aug 2 and again Sept 4. Planted it on Sept 7 or 8. Got a flush of garlic in it. When wondering why the second Gly app did not wipe it out it occurred to me that the pattern I was seeing with the garlic was where I did not spray with Cimarron PLus in spring. Coop truck ran out in this field. So I guess where it was sprayed I arrested the garlic, where not sprayed, garlic.
Now if I spray with Banvel in early spring, will that hurt the new orchard grass or should I wait until after first cutting and use Cimarron again to clean up winter annuals?
Howdy Y'all
Thanks in advance for any advice. This is my first year to have alfalfa here in central Texas in the Brazos bottom with pivot irrigation. While we have had a steep learning curve and problems but this one is disheartening. After 20 " if rain after Harvey the field looked great coming out of a very dry August and I was looking forward to a cutting next week. Went out to water and the field looked like a disaster area. Army worms stripped almost every lief. We have sprayed but what now. Should we mow the pathetic stems and let it grow back or leave it alone? Should be able to get another cutting this fall if weather cooperates and no more infestations. Alfalfa is not a regular crop here so local advice is sparse. hopefully y'all can help.
Thanks, Bill
Drilled 16 ac of new orchard grass on 9/7. Ground had maximum moisture on plant to the point I was worried that even at the least down pressure, it was planted too deep. Most of it was up in less than ten days and the majority is now over 1.5 inches tall. Problem is, we have not had any moisture since 9/6 when the remnants of a hurricane went through and our moisture was slight at that. Now, no rainfall in the forecast through Oct 8 but 15-35 winds today and Saturday with low to non-measurable humidity. Dews have kept things going but it was dry as a bone this am. Worried that I will loose some of the stand due to desiccation if we get no rain before what is in the forecast and that is not guaranteed. My what a difference from the summer weather when we had all the rain we needed at just the right time. I had thought we would get some fourth cutting og but that evaporated with the lack of moisture. Bummed.
At 4.5 months we start sorting our calves in to bigger groups 12 to 18 in big pens. Like to free choice hay in rounds or 3x3,s. I never could find the right feeder for hay .A ring or line of slant bars they either can crawl threw or if you make the slots real small they cannot reach much you are always in forking it towards the bars. Maybe little animals and big bales don't mix? .
Found a Reese 2400 drum mower for sale locally. It's an 8 footer that the maker recommends 65hp min to run. Looking around the net I see folks claiming that's for tractor weight, not so much because of HP req'd. Anyone ever run one? It's the 8 footer, weighs about 1200 lbs. I'd be using a DB 990 with FEL on it, not sure it's big enough. Thoughts?
Disclosure: I've known about this for a while now and have been periodically checking for a press release before I post about it here. It appears that day is today!
http://ift.tt/2wS97as
It's probably not a secret that AGCO wanted back the market share that Krone took with their high density balers. While the 2270XD was quickly pushed out as a stop-gap, it was obvious that a whole new platform was going to be needed to take back the crown. The Hesston factory appears to have gone back to a clean sheet of paper and designed up a next-generation platform to build their HD baler on. It does share some big similarities with the current production balers such as the packer and stuffer mechanism, but it appears everything else around it is all new. The big highlights:
-All new gearbox operating at 50 strokes-per-minute and 760kN (85 tons!). For reference, a XD operates at 460kN, max. I found a spec sheet and they're recommending 280+ hp for the packer version.
-A step-up gearbox on the tongue to keep the PTO from the tractor flat and also spin the flywheel/gearbox at 1500 rpm for more energy without a heavier flywheel. Krone currently does this, but at about 1200 rpm flywheel.
-Cam-clutch on the main gearbox instead of a shearbolt for protection.
-Still chain drive, like before. Still using Diamond chains.
-Per a spec sheet, standard with 620/55R-26.5 tandem tires. Optional 620/50R-22.5 or 710/50Rx26.5 tires. No single axle, due to the weight.
-All new pickup that has a floating top auger and pivots off the lower augers instead of the packer crank. That should get rid of pickups shaking from packer crank run-out. Tine-bar count also increases from 4 to 5.
-New knotters to handle the larger twine needed to support the higher loads. It appears they had to work with some twine manufacturers to develop a twine strong enough to support this baler. It appears they're sticking with 6 knotters and not going to 8.
-Bale chamber is now open-corner at the bottom, similar to Krone. This should help tremendously with dirt build-up that is seen in stover.
-New fiberglass shielding with a front nose cone that is similar to New Holland, opening up access around the front of the baler.
-Twine boxes open up like a gull-wing door. It's only about 20-30 degrees, but enough that you can at least physically get behind the boxes to service things like the hay dogs. You're still taking a dirt bath, however.
-Longer tongue to help duals clear the pickup and the tongue is replaceable.
-Hydraulic tank moved down to ground level (inside the tongue).
-All new software. I've had a chance to play with it a bit; there's going to be a learning curve as they changed the navigation a little, but it looks great and shows plenty of information. This includes displaying the plunger position to aid starting the baler.
Based on the numbers I've seen, this absolutely bests Krone's HD. Capacity wise they're pretty close to equal, but the AGCO baler beats it on bale weight with a good margin. That said, what I'm really looking forward to is seeing this trickle down into the rest of their line-up. The current balers have been in production since about 2006; I think it's high time for an update.
Has anybody used this type? It has the spiked roller in the front and a cast roller on the back. Fairly new. I think they came out last year. I can't find much info on line about them. Link to one below.
I am looking for a new 10 to 12 ft center pull disc mower. Does anyone have any knowledge about Pottinger mowers? I have access to most major brands and some smaller ones too. Thank you Bob
Pequea is a great company to buy equipment from. The other day while greasing I found that I had a broken finger on a coupler where it pivots and that the shafts were rubbing together. The shafts at the other 3 pivots still had paint on them. Called dealer and thought it was something the company rep may have an interest in looking at for future information. Was put on a conference call right then with Pequea service rep and found that the shaft issue should be resolved by moving some washers from one side or the other for run out, but what surprised me the most is they are going to cover the parts expense for the new coupler and take the old one back for testing. Not what I was expecting or looking for, just thought it might be something they may have an interest in before it got fixed this fall. This tedder is 1 year out of warranty with 3 seasons of use.
Progressive Forage Grower on pre-cutting balers.
Regards, Mike
We finally have got our stock tank going. It turned out being a two year project; tapped into the drain line that drains our alfalfa field two years ago, last year we set the tire tank, and this year we finally got the submersible pump and solar panels in. We have a two one hundred watt solar panels, and two one hundred amp hour battery backup. The intent is to have it pump 24/7 to keep the tank from freezing up in the winter. As this is the first time dealing with solar it has been a learning process. It is looking like we are going to have to add some solar panel; at this point we can't produce enough power to keep the pump running and recharge the batteries, so may add two more panels, and we have been thinking of adding in a 400 watt wind turbine.
So now that we have the tank in place we have algae growing in the tank and I would like to be able to control it. I hate to add in chemical because with the tank constantly changing water it would just get washed out. Does anyone have any ideas. If I put a couple of gold fish in the tank, do you think they would survive the winter.
Battery bank is in the box behind the solar panels, I used an 1 3/4 solid core door with 2" of foam insulation. I sized it so that I could get three batteries in the box. I think that should keep them from freezing.
We ended up having to change the discharge of the water above the tank, as when the pump shuts off with the water
We tied into the drain line on November 17 two years ago. Needless to say it was not real warm to be in that water. We started trying to keep the water out of our boots, but ended up in water up our waist. I was never so glad to get out of that water. We had a pump but it did not work all that well. I am glad to see it in, and the cows seem to like the clean water.
I clipped a fencepost with the far left basket. As a result the two left baskets were out of time. I have dropped and retimed the baskets. When I attempted to fold for transport, the universal joints were out of sinc and would not fold. I don't know how to resolve this. Does anyone know where to get a service manual? Seems to be impossible to find online.
Who these days has a need for straight alfalfa small square bales of hay? Is there that much demand - even with horse folks?
Around here, cheap hay rules in many ways and a straight bale of alfalfa is the highest priced of small square bales. I should think for dairy, round bales of alfalfa or large squares would be the market vs small squares?
Who's feeding straight alfalfa in volume with small square bales and why?
Just curious.
Thanks!
Bill
Now available in pocket size for 2018 on October 2. From Growing TN.
Regards, Mike
Does someone have a wiring diagram for the New Holland BR series tail and SMV lights? In particular what the module on the hitch does? Tried out my Euro tractor on a baler tonight to test the NA outlet and the lights on the baler were doing weird stuff. It could be a ground problem in the lights but it could be the hitch module is going bad.
I am considering planting maybe five acres in oats for hay. About 20 miles from the ocean with mild winters to bale next May or early June I think. Have been told if baled at right time makes great hay for cows and also horses to mix with coastal in feeding the horses, well my nephew who raises horses said it was. Looking for thoughts on this. Have been told to bale when in the milking stage which "I THINK" (which means may not be near correct) the seed is still soft with milky juice when pinched between thumb nail and finger.
Presented by Massey Ferguson.
Regards, Mike
I have an 1840 baler that seems to go through hay dog springs (4) this year. Anyone know if this is unusual? Thanks
I plan on purchasing a new flail chopper. I've looked at the New Holland Model 38 Crop Chopper, Deere 972 Flail Chopper and the Hiniker 5710... which is of a very interesting design. I've pretty well convinced myself that no flail chopper is going to throw forage into the back of a 20' self feeding wagon and certainly not a used Deere 16a or 38 New Holland. The new Model 38 has some improvements in the paddle area which may get more distance... similar to my Fox 844 which is on it's last legs. However anyone out there ever do a recent study of these models and came away with a decision??? Thanks
But will they prosecute him or let him buy his way out.....which is usually how things go in SA.
Regards, Mike
My dad and I are kicking around the idea of getting into customer small square and round baling work in our area. I'm using the custom rate charts that PA posted for 2016 as my baseline and have created a spreadsheet to combine the different operations (mowing, raking, baling) and have added in pickup/stacking as well. During this, I came up with a couple questions.
1) How much for moving round bales? I'm not sure if I want to just move them to the edge of the field, to their barn or offer the options at two different costs. Any opinions of this?
2) How much for picking up and stacking small squares with my stacker wagon? At this point I'm going with $0.50 per bale, but I have nothing to base this on other than my gut (it's the number my dad picked, too). I would limit my work to setting the load off at their barn with no manual labor on my part... they would be in charge of getting the hay into their barn unless it was a situation where I could back in and set the stack off. Also, I wouldn't pick the bales up with my wagon unless I had done the baling.
3) What to charge for moving bales with my bale grab? I haven't even come up with a price for this yet, but was thinking this may be more of a per hour charge than per bale.
4) Should I have different rates for 1st cutting versus 2nd or later cuttings? My spreadsheet adjusts everything to a per acre charge by assuming a minimum number bales per acre. However, I've typically seen my lower per acre averages for 2nd and later cuttings.
I'm sure I've missed at least one question, but this is a start. I look forward to your responses and thank you in advance.
- Josh
There's a Kuhn GA6622 rotary rake coming up at an auction in a couple weeks and I was wondering if there was anything in particular I should look for when checking it out? I've only seen these things on the dealer lot and watching from the sidelines - never owned/run one. I've heard a lot of good things about rotary rakes, but haven't been willing to spend the money on one when I have a nice tandem rolabar rake setup at home that's all paid for.
I looked at it the other day and it seems to be in really good shape as compared to other rotary rakes I've seen at auctions. There weren't any bent safety bars, the curtains were in good shape, etc. The only problem spot I noticed was a couple of the tires were worn out (one was showing the threads).
I know it's probably going to go for more than I want to spend, but just in case I'd like to know if it's a good buy.
Thanks, Josh
Hello all!
We are going Thursday to look at this IH47. It would only be used for small acreage & they are asking $1000. My local farm group is telling me it is not worth that amount & it is hard to find parts. Any suggestions or advice? This will be our first baler as we are relatively new to farming, so thank you and sorry for any dumb questions!
-Alex
Here in northern New England, it was a very wet spring & early summer. There weren't very many dry days in a row, however the grass was getting so long it just had to be mowed & baled, come what may. With impending rain, I rolled and wrapped grass/clover that wasn't quite dry but, with insufficient moisture for ensiling. When I unwrapped a bale (from June), it was not moldy or spoiled, however, within a couple of days, it started to heat up and smell acrid. In the winter, this wouldn't be an issue since I could feed it out before it deteriorated much, but now my stock are still on pasture and, consequently, do not need much supplemental forage. So as not to waste the feed, I have been unwinding the bale up in the mow and spreading it out in "windrows" to allow air to circulate which seems to help. Anyone have any better ideas to prevent or delay the deterioration of this hay? Thanks.
Does anyone make a knife shim kit for these balers? It be nice to have a full kit selection of shims. Looks like the OEMs just sell them individually.
I found this used tedder and looks good in appearance, since it was stored in a shed. Is this a decent tedder?
We have 40ac coastal bermuda grass and sandy loam soil (3 or 4 cuttings a year).
Thanks in advance for all comments!
I had a bearing go out on my BR 7080, and I cant find a parts list on the internet. Does anyone know were I could find a parts list on the internet, for 12.24 section of the parts book.
What would be the best way to smooth up a rough bermuda field? The stand is almost 30 years old and over the course of time it has become fairly rough. I really don't want to destroy the stand, however i'm pretty tired of bouncing over it too.
I have a 2014 John Deere 568 round baler that has been causing me a problem.
Every once and a while when I lower the gate after completing and ejecting a finished bale, the bale door OPEN sign stays on the right side of the monitor and a STOP sign appears directly above it, while an alarm goes off. Also on the opposite side of the monitor a image that represents NEAR FULL (a picture of a round bale) appears.
You would think that I am attempting to shut the gate on top of a bale, only the gate has shut completely
I raise and lower the gate several times and all the warnings go away and the DOOR SHUT image appears as normal and away I go.
I just finished baling 30 bales and it happened 3 times this afternoon.
Any ideas???
A group is rasing money to produce meat with not animals being killed, calling it "clean meat".
Wonder if they will be hay buyers?
I'm looking at used NH 38 and JD 16A flail/crop choppers. Which one is the better machine? What about parts availability and cost? Thanks
Finally got a chance to work on the 644 from my neighbor, and found that the top sledge idler is loose. The bearing seems to be ok, but the whole idler assembly is loose in the sledge frame. I followed mike10's guide and removed the idler hub, and can see where the recess in the sledge frame sidewall is now worn as is the shim washer between the idler and the sledge frame. I'm not going to use this baler much at all and don't really want to remove the sledge, so I'm hoping for a simpler fix. It is hard for me to tell what bottoms out on what, so I'm wondering if I should try and place a shim between the idler support and the outside of the sledge frame, or if I can just clean everything up well and by tightening the bolt it will drawn everything tight again?
Hi guys,
Just found this site and you guys have a great wealth of information here. Hope you guys can help me out. I seeded about 160 acres of alfalfa this year into land that had been seeded in to grain for a long time. It's been doing fine except for the real dry spots and some weeds. I have about 70 acres of pasture that I want to seed to down to alfalfa and I'm not sure the best way to go about it. Some guys advise to break up the pasture (with a breaking disc, terra disc and harrows) now and seed in the spring. My concern with this is weeds seeds that will germinate. The pasture right now is mainly just native grass (they call it buffalo grass) but there are no weeds at all. I was thinking if I mowed this right down to the ground now and in the spring again, then i could just use a disc drill to seed right into the pasture and limit the amount of weeds that come up. What do you guys think? Thanks in advance.
I started having issues this year with #2 twine on the right hand knotter apparently slipping out of the twine holder on occasion. It seems to happen more frequently when I push the baler throughput but not always. The baler is two years old and has approximately 25,000 bales through it. The first year I could push it as hard as I wanted with no issues. The twine has a curl in the end so it appears as though it is trying to tie. I have increased the tension on the twine disc a couple of turns but am not sure how much I can safely increase it. Everything else seems to be in order. I had twine left over from last year and new twine from this year and it happened with both. The twine was Bridon and PolyExcel. Twine disk timing is correct. Any ideas on what to look at next?
IFF
That are moving more than normal now.....looking for overwinter sites.
Regards, Mike
Hello all,
I just want to first say that the knowledge of haying equipment on this forum is great. Better than the manual in a lot of cases.
That being said, I bought a new RB450 round baler, silage special with crop cutter earlier this summer and have been frustrated by a couple of nagging problems.
-One being the netwrap not extending to the edge of the bale (mostly left side only). I have adjusted the baffle plate and brake tension per the manual and it has certainly helped but I still get a mis-wrapped bale probably 10% of the time. I am going to readjust the baffle plate per Mike10's 'how to guide' and see if that works better.
-The second problem seems to be more challenging. This baler is getting all kinds of loose material (hay) buildup in the top area of the belts, near the follower roll and just below the main rubber drive roll. There is always buildup with dry hay and straw but not really any negative effects. But when baling tougher silage types such as grass and sorghum, this becomes a real problem. When these chunks of material get loose and carried up into the drive rolls, everything comes to a halt. Usually ends up tripping the PTO clutch or belts slipping. And I'm talking enough buildup after only 4 or 5 bales to cause this. I have adjusted all of the scrapers tight on the rollers along with the baffle down on the tailgate roller tight to the belts. I enclosed a few photos of the mess that ends up in there.
I know the accessory manual shows a few different rollers that can be added for trash removal but the dealer says they are not familiar with which one might help.
Any suggestions on how to solve this problem or what to look at?
Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions.
I am typically baling 1000 bales or so/year but probably >500 of them are wrapped green bales of various sorts so this thing needs to be able to work with silage bales. I traded in a Claas fixed chamber and I am really missing that machine right now but this NH really has a lot of good points if I can just get the bugs worked out of it.
What would be better for overseeding a slit seeder or a no till drill? Thanks
Ever since I've owned this baler (4 years) the timing marks haven't been lined up so I finally got around to trying to get the needle timing fixed. The timing marks were probably 1-1.5 inches off.
I did exactly what the manual says--
I removed the drive chain by loosening the idler pulley and lowering it.
Turned the flywheel in direction of travel ntil the crank was vertical and between the timing marks.
I confirmed the knotter clutch pawl was resting against the backstop on the knotter clutch. Then I pulled out on the needle yoke rod.
I turned the clutch gear until the timing marks were lined up. In the picture I was turning the one on the LEFT. It was difficult to keep it correctly in place when replacing the chain.
I reinstalled the chain and tightened it, then tripped the knotter and turned it through a complete cycle. After doing this, my timing marks were off by about an inch again (about where they were before). Pic is attached by how far they're off. What am I doing wrong here?
I'm making plans to do some fall cover crop planting in a very over grazed and poor ground pasture. Been talking with "reed" about my plans and looking for all the input I can get.
We are so dry here I decided to use the disc plow to loosen the top few inches to give the seed somewhere lay, I will be using a 3pt spreader to throw seed then cultipack..
Hope to be ready and have seed here next weekend and be ready in case we get some rain..
Area is about 7ac, very rocky, somewhat steep, and poor fertility.. Their isn't much other than Common Bermuda & crab grass..
Not sure what the seed place has or can get yet, will be calling tomorrow to see...
Plan -
Fescue
Rye grass- type ?
winter wheat
turnips - type ?
radish - type ?
black oats ?
winter peas ?
What else might I plant/ask for at the seed place, just looking to help the ground and have forage to give my hay stack a break..
I also will be able to fertilize and keep the horses & cows off for a while until things get established...
That block of granite weighs around 1K lbs..
And my stallion has to be with me and help...
Chris
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