Considering A New mid sized skid loader was loyal to New Holland but would consider any make to lift about a Ton about 60 to 70 HP . Anyone have a late model they like or don't like ...
Skid Loader
Considering A New mid sized skid loader was loyal to New Holland but would consider any make to lift about a Ton about 60 to 70 HP . Anyone have a late model they like or don't like ...
Anyone here with experience on the MC3300 (or any of the other new style Vermeer) discbines? I'm still using an old 7120 that refuses to die, and am window shopping for a newer machine. I'm toying around with either finding a really nice used 840 or possibly a 3300, whichever makes the most sense. Either would be a steel roller machine.
Curious as to how the newer model cutterbar compares to the old style like I've got, I honestly can't say a bad word about the old machine.
Thanks.
Mornin'All! - We are looking at a very used hay rake. The plate on it says International Harvester, made in Chicago. The place for Model # is blank. Serial Number says1734 A
This ring any bells for anyone?
Would like to know if it was made in 1938! Looking at pics of ones for sale it closely resembles the 12s & 14s out there, with 2 big adjusting cranks in front and a short axle. It also has an actual wooden block on a slide to adjust the chain. Really would like more info on this thing. Thanks, KE, Maine
How much difference in capacity is there between the 565 and 575? I went from a 273 to a 276 and it was quite a bit but the 276 is a bit tired looking to upgrade.
I pulled my plunger out to check the condition of the rails and bearings and then took a look at the plunger extensions. The manual does not talk about these. My plunger has 3 extensions. The parts manual lists 4, but there is mounting locations for 6. When do you need to run them, do you run less than 6 and if so how do you position them? Also if it makes any difference, this chamber has been reduced by about an inch or so from the bottom.
Hello
Does anyone know of a baler with a knife crop cutting system that makes bales 5' wide? I know there are lots of 4' wide models but I am wondering if there is a 5' wide model.
Thanks
I hope this type of news will improve the American Beef markets.
I am curious if it is possible to switch a John Deere 935 MoCo from 1000 RPM PTO to 540? I've read that it can be done on some models by flipping the gear box around, but wanted to know if that was true for this model. I just don't want to be switching my tractor from 540 to 1000 all of the time if I don't have to. Thanks!
I'm hoping we get more rain this summer than we did last summer so I can do some reseeding in my fields.
My fields are near 100% Fescue, planted 4 yrs ago, hayed every year, never reseeded.
The fields are starting to thin some but not bad yet.
My plan if the ground isn't as hard as concrete is to reseed this September, drilling not plowing the fields up..
Plan so far is Fescue as it seems to be the best as far as drought tolerant here.
Also I know my area is on the border for OG but I'm leaning towards giving it a try.
Been looking at "Haymaster & Potomac" so far, also giving some thought about Rye of some sort...
All I'm looking to do is increase my hay yields & root mass, etc.
I am getting my soil health better every year, I'm spreading 10-26-26 , 3 times a year @300lbs ac... my soil test show my P&K is starting to come up now but still needs more..
What do you think about my plans, and also give me your thoughts about other things I could plant this fall, I'm open to most anything that will help my soil and at the same time make good hay for my own horses as I don't sell hay...
After the events a few months ago with moving the Mother in-law, then loosing a job at the same time as some will remember, things have taken a turn for the better and I am able to again put some money towards my fields so give me your thoughts here...
Looking to reseed about 12-15 ac so I'm looking for how many lbs per for what ever is suggested also...
Upstate SC area, mostly red clay type soil..
Thanks, Chris
Hay comes up in the front of the sledge frame and wedges in between the belts and the top dimpled roller on the sledge frame. Baler has 3 ply heavy belts with JD type lacing. Worked fine after some adjustments last year. I posted then about some problems I had. Pressure gauge is not working on the front of the baler. Right now I have the right belt and the one next to it overlapped with grass wedged between the belts and the dimpled roller. We have tried everything short of blasting to get the grass out and the belts back. The hay is at least 2 ft long, blue stem and downy brome with some clover. Cut 40 hrs ago and running at least 24% moisture.. How to get the belts unstuck and also what is causing this. Hay fills up in front of the sledge and then at times comes out of the top and lays on the rubber cover over the cutter. After a while it is trapped over the twine arms. I have to leave the field after about 25 bales and blow out. I use a 250 cfm compressor with a 5/8in nozzle.
Any suggestions here. I had to use quote to save a lot of typing...
CRB
This is Krone's version of a nonstop round baler. Interesting to note that they took a different approach to the challenge than Lely (and Vermeer) did.
As the name implies,I'm wondering.I've had people tell me when using a tedder(which I do )you don't need a discbine to get hay dry.A disc mower will do just about as well.One of my neighbors cut some early hay last year,tedded it, then baled it a day sooner than I thought he could.Never heard anything about spoiled hay.
I would like to hear from someone else with more experience
Putting up a new Building to store some small square bales and machinery. 42x84x16 with a 20'x14' overhead door and a 3' walk in door. Just gonna put 6" of gravel down for now, I am gonna pour concrete under the overhead door for now to try and keep the rodents out. They are gonna start putting it up after the weekend. I will post more pics later.
So when fitting out some new mixed grass hayfields this year, my coop decided to premix my seed for me which has made getting it in the ground a bit of a struggle. The mix is 10lb Alfalfa 4lb OG 4lb Timothy 2lb Smooth Brome.
I tried putting in in the JD B drill, but couldn't get a good flow rate, so decided to borrow a vicon PS 225 pendulum. Started on 25' passes (which is below the recommended width), but I was only seeing about 11 - 12' spread out the spreader. Anyone have any thoughts as to the low spread?
Tried varying the flow rate on the hopper way beyond the recommended calibration to see if it was a flow issue, no change. The guy I borrowed it off spread his grass seed with it (just grass mind you), and he was running at 25' passes and is getting nice even emergence in his pasture. I did end up getting all the seeding done by splitting the passes on a second run, but seems like this is far from the normal behaviour of one of these.
Photo time:
Here's the seed mix (in the drill) - http://ift.tt/2s4WN4A
In the field - http://ift.tt/2r6KhEr
Hope and pray everyone gets 4 days of dry weather to put up your hay if its ready, or get your fields in if not. We have rain in the forecast today- but maybe we'll settle down a bit now.
Happy Hay Making!
The customer cannot hear the full bale alarm
Here is the configuration of the tractor.
No cab
No Muffler or at least it is ineffective
The full bale alarm is on the back side of the operators panel
I would like to put a microphone next to the full bale alarm speaker and mount an external speaker in a place where the operator can hear it. It needs to operator on 12v.or rechargeable batteries
So I need a microphone and speaker for a 12v or battery system. Suggestions?
Mike
Hi everyone,
Was hoping someone can help. I'm doing an economics assignment and decided on US cattle, decided to pick this subject because I live in Hong Kong which is in Southern China, and China just opened up its market to US beef. One thing I noticed is that cash cattle prices are way higher than futures. Why is this? Shouldn't the prices converge especially in the June contract which is almost at expiration? Like someone could buy the futures and sell the cattle in the cash market to make the difference?
Also in a tight market like this and with feed prices so low is it more beneficial to buy feeder cattle rather than live cattle?
Do you guys expect prices to keep going up because of China or just demand in the domestic market?
Any help will be appreciated because I don't come from a farming background.
Thanks!
I am trying to locate info on the thrower belt, part # 508 906-EA. Long belt. I don't have the one that broke, so I need a length & width, or better yet a parts dept that has one. Thanks.
I am wondering what brand of bailing wire is best for a wire square baler. I have been using wire from Orscheln's farm and home and had some trouble with it last year bird nesting on me and wondered what others have found to work good.
TIA
Andy
I'm a rank beginner at baling, so this is probably a pretty dumb question--anyway, our NH 269 baler makes a loud clacking sound especially when turning--the sharper the turn, the more and louder the clacking--sounds like its coming from the front, like perhaps the U-joint on the front (drive) shaft.
Any thoughts?
We finally bit the bullet and bought a wheel rake. Dad had a doctor's appointment in Casper last week and ended up going by the John Deere dealer. We seen this Circle C rake, so last Monday we made a special trip back to Casper to look at the rake, well we made a offer on the thing. Of course it was a consignment deal and it took us all day to come to an agreement; we were finally home when the accepted our last offer. I bet the sales man really hates those consignment deals; here he has a customer hot to trot and has to be a go between. So we made another trip back to Casper to get it today.
A couple years ago my neighbor had an issue with his 644 where something stopped spinning (he can't remember what) so he sent it to the dealer for repairs. The dealer came back with a $13.5k estimate to basically replace all of the sledge rollers, gears and bearings - almost $9k for parts and 50 hours labor. He got scared and bought a new BR5060, and let the 644 sit outside. Last year he gave it to me, so now I want to figure out what is wrong with it. It has been well used - 27k bales - but I only want to have it as a backup in case the weather takes a sudden bad turn and I need to round bale and wrap instead of square baling. I've only round baled once in my life so I have a lot to learn, but after reading some of mike10's posts I decided to check the sledge clutch as that slips without clicking (and I think he would have remembered the clicking). The two clutch plates are glazed and appear to be worn down to almost the base metal, but are still about 0.130" thick. According to the parts listing, new ones are 0.142" and $100 each. Is it fair to assume these could be an issue, or are they still thick enough? The glazing tells me they have slipped a lot but I'm not sure how often they typically slip. There are pipe wrench marks on the clutch shaft, so I bet it has been plugged a few times in its life.
Let me start by saying I'm not a Hay expert and in fact this is the first year I'm trying to do everything myself. This is my situation. I started cutting the first cut two weeks ago, and, well, my tractor broke after raking. I have a day job so it has taken two weeks to get the tractor fixed and back out there. My question is this, If I raked two weeks ago and the grass just laid there in a windrow for two weeks will that grass be ok to bale? Now of course I plan on turning it over before I bale it but is there any risk considering it has been rained on and just laying out there for two weeks?
John Deere 458 net/string wrap for sale. bales up to a 4x5 bale. 3,300 bales on it. This baler was used to bale wheat straw and coastal bermuda hay in eastern NC. Hydraulic pick up reel and bale ramps when bale ejects. When not in use baler is kept under the shelter. PM if Interested. Located in Goldsboro, NC.
I'm shopping around for a used baler and I think I have it narrowed down to two. John Deere or Vermeer which one is better? Are there any models you would stay away from? I'm Shopping in the less than 10K range. I would like one that does both twine and net.
My uncle has a Deere 1360 mower conditioner and can't figure out how to check the oil in the cutter bar. As per him, the book/manual suggests draining and refilling the cutter bar if you suspect the level is low or a leak etc...
Surely to goodness there is another way. Heck, I check oil when I have no reason whatsoever to believe the level is low. I check oil levels right after changing it!!
I searched the innerweb high and low and found one single post somewhere on some different site about taking a stud out and measuring the oil...should be 2mm deep it says. I have no idea if that is right or merely a speculation on someone's part.
I guess it doesn't have a deere cutterbar? Kuhn or Krone or something? There are no sightglasses on either end.
Thanks all.
Mark
I was looking at a Kubota RTV x900 today and was impressed. I have a JD Gator HPX 4x4 that is an essentail part of my day-to-day operation but is getting a little long in the tooth so I am looking at alternatives.
I've looked at other Gators but JD is a little proud of them and they don't seem to be really built for farm use. The HPX is a plain Jane but serves me pretty well. I DO NOT like the the way they shift or the tail gate design (cheap and junky).
I liked the Kubota, especially the tail gate. Shifting seemed a little stiff. Not too crazy about a diesel (but I may be wrong about it).
I'm curious if anyone has bought/used one of these and what your impressions are?
Thanks
Ralph
Next situation I found on this new (to me anyhow) used baler (while repairing safety latch cable).
There is a connecting rod (goes from plunger to arm), where it is dragging across the bale chamber. There appears to be no play (slop) on either end of the connecting rod.
Connecting rod is rubbing the bale chamber frame fairly good. Pictures 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5 (BC5070-Rod-10, 20, 30, 40 and 47), the left side is hitting / wearing more than the right side (as standing on rear, business end of baler).
The next 5 pictures show the wear points of the bale chamber its self (BC5070-Rod-50, 51, 60, 80 & 90).
I think if I take any more pictures of this baler, it will think it’s a beauty queen.
The present pictures of the rubbing, was created by me hand turning the fly wheel, while doing the safety latch repair. I have not powered this baler up with a tractor as of yet. This baler has only somewhere in the neighborhood of 6,000 to 8,000 bales through it (supposedly).
Any and all suggestions of what, why and where are appreciated.
Larry
Hello
I am looking at a used NH 1411. The discs outside of the disc with the vertical drive have a lot more play on them then the ones inside of the discs with the vertical drive. However the knives still have a long way to go before they hit each other. It is the same story on both sides of the cutter bar. The discs on the inside have a minimal amount of play. Is this normal that the wear is uneven? If it is just wear, what is most likely wore out inside the cutter bar and how easy is it to replace?
Thanks
-Johannes
As many of you know I have a nh super 66 (low capacity baler) Last year I had issues with large windrows which caused me to have to travel super slow... at times even barely moving I'd clog up the pickup. I do have a motor on my baler which means I can stop and have full power still... That does help but still have issues.
I have 2-3 weeks until my field will have a chance of being dry enough to cut first cutting. The back field is already very thick and tall - mainly OG. I am already dreading managing the big windrows.
Does anyone have any advice to help me keep the windrow size down so I can travel at a respectable speed and make nice uniform bales. I rake with a nh 256 if that helps with any advice.
Any one have a solution for net-wrap wrapping around the pickup reel as well as internal rollers on a Vermeer 605 Super M Baler?
I found a young kid on youtube working with old equipment. He's actually using a NH 66 LOL. He's baling small fields and just learning. I feel his pain every time he has a break down. If you care to watch one of his videos I included a link. He actually bales into the night... 11:00 at night he's still going at it.
I have a Kuhn GDM 700 disc mower that was stored last winter with the blade up now it is locked up. Any ideas?
I have had my BR740A for a few years now, and have noticed a few maintenace issues that need addressed...
-The pickup stuffer bushing is going out on one side and needs replaced. Any real trick to getting it out? Looks like just a matter of loosening everything and sliding it over and out...??
- My sledge roll frame had grooves worn in it from the belts. Any reason whey I cant weld the grooves up with the frame in the baler. Welding on the frame makes me nervous that the welding will pull the frame out of "true"
-The grease fitting on the sledge roll pivot wont take grease. I tried going into the grease fitting hole with a pick, but just cant get it freed up. This is the pivot on the nondrive side of the roll. Can I pull that pivot mount off the one side while leaving the sledge roll assembly in the baler? I assume I need to pull it out to clean the hole and get grease flowing again.
-Is there any need to check or lube the pickup cam/cam followers? The only thing I have done to the pickup is lube the auger chains and clean the junk out from behind the chain cover. Should I check out the cam followers to make sure they are in good shape?
I really cant afford downtime so I like to be a little proactive in repairs...
Thanks
We have briefly mentioned these rakes in the past. I am trying to find some firsthand information on the impression/satisfaction of these rakes. If any of our folks use this rake I would like to hear from you. Or, if any of your neighbors or acquaintances use this rake I would a appreciate a inquiry on them.
Regards, Mike
Need some (lots!) of help looking for a self propelled mower. We've used a JD 2420/2320 which doesn't condition first cut orchard grass as well as our IH 1190 pull type. Jeff switched back to using the 1190 to finish this week. I've kept google active searching but it is hard to do really good comparisons on older models. Self propelleds aren't very common in our area.
Have looked at some center pivots but would really like to be able to be forward looking so here are some of the things affecting our wants/needs.
That's a start, appreciate you'alls help!
Shelia
Thanks!
(Let me know if you need pictures of anything I'm describing and I can try to get them for you.)
Anyone know of a salvage yard that sells parts for a New Holland 258 ?
Looking for a used tine-bar for a 258.
Thanks in advance for any info you guys can share.
I know uptake of hay into the baler has a lot to do with how big or little a flake is - I have not seen uniform flakes much in the haying world. So I have pondered - why not? How does one make uniform size and weight flakes in a small square?
(yeah I know you are going to laugh at me- that's fine- still hunting for the answer though)
I have always been pretty quick to share the funny, not so funny, and the success stories on here. this one is a little different. Maybe it will give some perspective on the challenges of what we do. I have been stewing on the events of recent weeks and figured that I may as well share that too.
As many of you know, we had that really nice article a couple of months ago in Progressive Forage Grower Magazine. Thanks to Lynn Jaynes for that, it was awesome.
With the business growing, it was pretty apparent pretty quickly that the old swather wasn't going to hold up forever. This began the 3 month search for a rotary swather, preferably a Massey Ferguson. After bidding on many, we finally found one at the price and hours we wanted. A few days later came a 3X3 baler that would round out the upgrades. A significant upgrade and investment, to say the least.
Fast forward to getting everything to the place and ready to roll for the year. First cutting starts in a couple of weeks.
I start doing interviews for hired hands and cannot find anybody. I mean can't find a warm body with any experience. Well, maybe one, but he wasn't hire-able, and even then it was questionable. We advertised locally, on social media, with the Wyoming Job Service, here on HT, everywhere that I thought might get us someone half ways qualified. No dice. There are farm hands getting laid off all over and no one wants to work custom haying.
So at this point, there I set with all of this new to me equipment, and no one to run it. The doubt starts to creep in. It wasn't a pleasant feeling to be sure. I can't take a job to put up hay if I don't have the people on board to run equipment. I should mention that my main guy last year went back into retirement, and has no interest in working this year. The part timers have all moved on. All except one, and she has a full time job.
We had a meeting of the board again, another three beers for the uninitiated, and talked it over. it was looking pretty gloomy.
The phone started ringing. Of course that little article got some attention from some big outfits. Over 1200 acres of grass hay on one of them.
The pressure got pretty high to make a decision. I had a choice to make. It was either quit the day job and go full time custom haying or back off entirely. Without any help I couldn't justify quitting the dayjob, although I could have hired a gunsel at that point and made it work. It was a roll the dice situation at best.
So in a nutshell, there I am with a pile of newer machinery and no way to put it to work. With that equipment came the debt load right behind it. At some point I realized that a sizable chunk would be required to service that debt. I also came to the realization that I couldn't do it by myself.
We made the difficult decision to hang it up and sell out the equipment that is owned by the company. We are keeping our stuff and will continue to do our own haying. So far, about half of it is sold or pending sale, and we have half of it to sell yet.
Talk about a roller coaster ride over the last few weeks. We have had highs and lows of epic proportions. In the end, we will go back to relaxing. We will put up our own hay and maybe some lease ground yet. We might actually have time for some R&R this summer, instead of running wide open. The fish might not like it, but we will.
Looking back at a whirlwind last year and a half, I realized that we built a successful business. Our plans all worked as designed, our business model was good. Everything worked exactly as it should, save for one thing. Hired help.
While we are adjusting to the new normal, it helps to reflect on all of the good stuff that has happened. I guess that it can be considered a successful failure in some ways.
We won't be in the custom business, at least for now, but I know that the market is there for it. I proved my theory. Today, that is just going to have to be enough.
I recently purchased a used 4 basket tedder. It's a Vermeer TD200. I noticed a few of the tines on the middle baskets were bent together, and didn't really think much about it. But now that I put hay on the ground and actually got to use it, I see what's happened. The previous owner had a problem and didn't want to or know how to fix it I guess. When the tedder is angled forward to get the center tines to the right height for tedding, the outer baskets are not touching the crop. So to compensate, you have to make the center baskets touch the ground or dig a little in order to get the outer baskets to pickup the crop.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to what might be the issue causing this?? All 4 tires are the same, they have the same air pressure, and their arms aren't bent. I will add that the crank to tilt the basket is extremely hard to crank regardless of oil or grease application, it may be bent. but that adjusts the entire machine not just 2 baskets.
Can anyone offer some help?
Thanks
We had a cow that we had to take into the vet today, Not really sure what was wrong with her, but we had to pull a dead calf; not sure if the cow is going to survive yet. She is lousy, and we back pored her with Ivomec last December when we bought her.
Hi guys, new to the forum. I just got an awesome deal on a 5420 Vermeer and have a question regarding the tension system. The dealer I bought it from said the tractor hydraulics charge the tension cylinder, after getting it home theres no way, the hoses on the tension cylinder do not communicate with any other hydraulics. They also ran it in their shop and told me the pressure is set on the high side and to try it and see how it works in my hay. I understand that but the mechanic told me to drain oil from the circuit to lower the pressure, I dont think thats right either, dont I just adjust the valve behind the door? This baler only has 360 bales through it, looks new, Im just trying to figure it out before I need it. Thanks for any input...
I have an early 1840 with Hydraulic tension. The unit is a leaker . Anyone else have this problem and would have a fix?
Does anyone have the JD part# for the entire silage kit for a 335? After spending 35 minutes on the phone with one guy, the most he could come up with was just the part# for the lh/rh strippers. If I had a proper part number, I could see it going a lot faster.
Mowed about 3 acres of rye Monday to wet wrap on Tuesday. This was my first shot at it, and I learned a few things in the process. Have seen different opinions on whether or not to rake. I didn't rake, but sure will next time. Just too many passes over the field, and it seemed like I had to set the baler pickup too low to get everything up, and now have an issue on the pickup to fix. Other than that, not too much trouble. Any one have any pointers for the next round?
I recently purchased a 2012 Vermeer 604 SM. Inside of the side doors of the baler, it tells you where the grease fittings are, how often to grease (hours), and how many shots of grease to put in each. I grew up around an older farmer who greased everything every time he used it. So, I am use to greasing things every time I use it. My question is what do others do? Should I go by the schedule they recommend (since I am sure this is a minimum) or grease it every time I use it. I have been putting a couple shots in each fitting, not as much as they recommend, but I never run it 50 hours at a time. top and bottom rollers they recommend 15 shots every 50 hours. Is there a such thing as too much grease?
Took a new 450 out to join two BR7060's in the field for this family.
Started cutting hay yesterday afternoon.Got the tedder going today after 3:00.Some of the hay has dried very little and now we have a possibility of thunderstorms after noon on Thurs then 4 days of 50% chance.
Would you ted again in the morning?Maybe twice?
All grass-type hay.
Does anyone have experience spreading Timothy seed with a pendulum broadcast spreader? I've always seeded with my grain drill using the small grass seed boxes and then packed it a couple of times (once behind the drill and then once again with just the packer), but the drill has a tendency to seed in streaks rather than an even coverage. I have a Land Pride spreader (I believe that it's just a re-branded Vicon) that I use for spreading fertilizer, and I just picked up a "small seed kit" for it (which is just a plate that covers up two of the three metering holes in the bottom of the hopper) thinking that I would try using it for seeding timothy rather than the drill in hopes that it would spread more evenly (with use of my GPS of course). Once I have it spread, my plan would be to pack it twice to create the same kind of planting depth and packing as a Brillion seeder would do.
The manual lists timothy in the chart, and at the right setting, claims that it will spread it at the rate I want with a 26ft coverage per pass. In theory this sounds like a good idea, but will the tiny seed really spread evenly at that coverage? Does any one have experience seeding small light seed with a pendulum spreader? Or am I better off using my old grain drill?
I when out in my cow pasture (cows hadn’t been turned out on yet) and collected some grass, mainly orchard grass (if not all OG), it self-seeds here. I split this collection into two samples.
One sample I took in right away (higher moisture sample naturally). The remainder I put on a piece of plywood in my shed. After a week or so (I turned it every day or so), I took it in the house and put it on the end of the wife’s kitchen table (not whole table just the end I don’t use) for a couple of days. Seems drying conditions were not the best in my shed, with the dampness and high humidity we were having.
Once it felt like it was dry enough to bale, I took another sample in for testing. Attached are the results, which I am going to share with my horse customers, this year. Who feel my hay is ‘too rich or high protein’ for their critters. Yet this is exactly what their critters are grazing on right now in MY area.
As I try to educate some, I know that I have to be ready to also except defeat. After all it seems I have (albeit slowly) learned that sometimes you just can’t fix stupid.
Test results attached.
Larry
PS: this grass had not even begun to start heading out as an FYI.
Just curious to hear what others are seeing this year in their fields. First hay of the season and my yields or off anywhere from ton to a ton and a half an acre. I am cutting about 2 weeks earlier than last year but the fields and pastures just seem thinner in my area. Maybe getting to cut a little earlier will bump the yields on the second cutting. My fields are simply grass hay. Mainly fescue with a little clover.
Here in Wisconsin we had a few nice days in early April, so I planted a five acre field of alfalfa with a little timothy and orchard grass with oats as a nurse crop. Within a few days the weather turned and we had wet cold weather for three weeks . Now the oats is finally up 6", but very thin in spots and little or no alfalfa in those spots as well. I'm now tempted to go back in with the drill and over seed those areas after roughing it up with my spike tooth harrow. Or should I wait tell after the oats comes off, see what I have for alfalfa and grass and maybe over seed in the fall ?
While baling yesterday, I heard a thump coming out of my NH 780A BR Baler. Turns out one of the stuffer arms has a lot of play in it.
Anybody have any ideas about these parts availability and ease of replacement?
Thanks
Ralph
I would like to see a new forum or topic group specifically designed to rate a piece of equipment on certain aspects such as usability, maintenance, reliability and maybe some other categories, where we could say what we like/dislike about this unit and maybe give it a rating.
In my thoughts, I see major/minor and sub-minor categories with the ability to add categories over time. Perhaps minor and sub-minor categories could be added by us. Each posting would preferably be identified and rated, maybe with a 1-5 star rating.
Example:
New Holland TS135A Tractor
1) Maintenance
---a) Routine maintenance
------1. Ease of changing air filters
----------rjmoses ---2*--- Very difficult to change air filter with loader mounted. Have to snake hand in and around air conditioning lines and loader arms. Spring clips really poorly designed for ease-of-access.
-----2. Ease of changing oil and oil filter.
---------rjmoses ---4* --- Oil filter easy to access. Oil pan drain plugs on both sides of oil pan, easy to get to. Requires metric allen wrench
-----3. A/C Maintenance
---------rjmoses---3*--- Cabin air filter very difficult to get at.
2) Usability
-----a) Operator comfort
---------1. Operator seat
--------------rjmoses---4*---Delux operator seat is very comfortable. Air seat has to be re-inflated periodically. Lots of controls for operator comfort but poorly identified.
----- Hitching/unhitching equipment
-------------rjmoses----3*---Safety shield over PTO makes it difficult to hook up PTO shaft.
My thinking behind this is that it becomes a summary of likes/dislikes for future reference for us as users and for feedback to manufacturers ("Boy, did we get flamed on that one! Maybe those guys have a good idea there.").
Just thinking,
Ralph
I've got a window, 85's/50% humidity through Tuesday, to get some hay down. Mowed 28 acres yesterday on a tired field and was able to run about 8.5 acres/hour. Figured throw it in a narrow windrow, let the ground dry a little, then ted it today.
Started mowing the Warrior OG field I planted a year and a half ago (Oct. 2015) under wheat.
Ready for it? This field is SOOO thick and has SOOOO much leaf that I quit after mowing 7 out of 18 acres:
So much hay that I don't think it will get dry by Tuesday (calling for T-Storms Weds. AM). Have seep spring down low that's not helping. I figure I will either get up about a 1/3rd with really good quality, and 2/3rds later with moderate quality. Or not!
I have NEVER had an OG field this thick! And with so much leaf!
Ralph
We have a Melroe model 202 grain drill that I would like to find a owner manual for. I am hoping that someone here on Haytalk has on lying around in their shop somewhere.
From our good friends at Progressive Forage Grower.
Regards, Mike
What is the best way to get rid of these beasties? When I was a kid we called them Chinese puzzles and liked to pull the segments apart and put them back together. Last summer I had a section of these plants start growing abundantly along side by gated pipe in a Roundup Ready alfalfa field. I used a backpack sprayer with glyphosate and sprayed multiple times. The stems seemed to die. This spring they are back. I note from different extension service publications that Sledgehammer, Manage, and glyphosate are effective. Does anyone have good luck with these or some other method to get rid of them? So far the horsetail rush plants are mainly on one side of my irrigation pipe, the side that is not watering my alfalfa and against a road. But a few of the plants are now appearing on the field side of my alfalfa. I certainly want to get rid of them. Thanks.
I am going to be putting a couple of hives of bees in the mountains of extreme North Georgia. Bears are a problem so i need a electrified deterrent. I will be using barbed wire strands to electrify so that it will reach well into the bears fur and hide.
I have not bought a charger in 20 years and what I have are all 110 volt and I need something for a remote location....and as reasonably priced as allowed for something that will for sure work well. Any first hand recommendations?
Regards, Mike
I feel as though US beef has weathered the storm and is now on a long term upwards trend...I hope.
Regards, Mike
The new barn an new skid steer left me in-want of another grapple; while I was at it, I decided to go with a steffen style as it had added height and appears easier to use when you can't see the top of the stack from a skid steer.
Here is the grapple that I've been fabricobbling on.
I used the Steffen's style as I plan on only using this one to unload from the wagons into the barn and out of the barn back onto customers' trailers. I doubt it would work well in the field as it won't “crowd” the pack to tighten it up prior to loading.
This is what I have in it, so far. I have not installed took possession of the cylinder yet, so there are no cylinders or hoses on it yet.
.
s60-35 wire for spool gun on mig welder (can be had cheaper, but I like the supplier) $44.75
17 1/4-28 grease zerks $3.70
2x10 cylinder $20.00 (used)
½” plate (2'x3'), drill rod (bushing mat'l) and hyd cyl ram (swivel pin mat'l) (scrap yard) $25.00
3/8 skid steer plate (palletforks.com) $116.00
1 plasma cutter tip (consumed) $1.70
1 spool gun tip (consumed) $1.15
1 chop saw blade (consumed) $6.95
electricity $TBD
2 4-1/2 grinder wheels $1.98
Hydraulic hoses $TBD
Pioneer male ends $14.98
Grapple Hooks (Agrisupply) (24 + spare) $233.89
½ x 2 hot rolled flat weight 68. $33.15
3x2x.188 hot rolled tubing- rectangle (2) weight 268.32 $167.70
1x1/2x1/8 hot rolled bar channel (2) weight 33.6 $22.85
1” hot rolled round (2) weight 106.8 $43.50
3/16x3 hot rolled flat (2) weight 76.52 $36.16
5x2x.188 hot rolled tubing-rectangle weight 195.60 $122.25
I'm at @$895 right now with hoses and fittings to buy and electricity to figure or a all-inclusive price (with the exception of depreciation of welders, chop saws, etc...)
Note, there is steel left-over from the build that can be used for other projects, but the cost is attributable to the build as it was a necessary purchase in whole-lengths.
Mark
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