Can anyone help me identify this type of grass please, it doesn't seem to have a head or seeding out. Location is near Houston, TX. 20miles from the Gulf Coast. I have a few more pics if it helps.
Thanks
We have to wait and see, but this is a general idea of things that could be....
Regards, Mike
I'm new to hay making, but plan to start cutting and baling next spring. I'm supposed to take delivery of a MF1840 baler next month. I would like recommendations for an applicator system for this baler that will work with Hay Guard. I've tried searching the subject on this site and the internet, and trying to dig through the results for the specific information I want is akin to trying to give myself a migraine. I would like something with a bale chamber moisture sensor and would like it to be automated to come on when it's needed. The dealer quoted me a price on a Hay Boss 300 system at $6,700, which is more than I was really wanting to spend. I don't know if that's a good price, but it appears to have lots of features, more than I probably need. Suggestions?
AgWeb. Interesting facts on this bi-annual weed.
Regards, Mike
Saw on the news this morning the proposed new budget (Federal) could have major impact on wild horses as it cuts several million from the budget for them. As news reporters often do it was told with as much emotion as possible as they said "it could lead to massive slaughter of them". Then with much less emotion they told had rapidly their population had to me exploded in the last few years and they were working on better birth control methods for them. (Maybe they need to put them in public education classes.) They did have one rancher who said they use to drive a heard I think it was like 10 miles to pasture and now had to haul them 150 miles for grazing due to the population increase. He then had the nerve to ask what do they do in cities when they have major over populations of dogs and cats?
I have never seen the wild horses herds in person but think most any kind of animal running free is beautiful. That can also be in a pasture. What is the thoughts of those who live with this? Have a neighbor who has for a couple or more years traveling to Wyoming think it is to get (buy?) wild horse or horses per year if my understanding is correct. Round trip must be 4,000 miles.
It does make me wonder how much the Federal Government (US, you and me) spend a year per wild horse.
The plastic free rolls and is very loose on the bales. Anybody else have this problem with this wrapper or know of a correction? Seems fine if I drag my hand on roll for a brake as it wraps. Spoke with Vermeer trouble shooter he suggested this kit to solve problem consisting of two big washers a spring and another plastic piece that goes into the roll of plastic. Did nothing. Maybe someone else has had same problem and can help me? Thank you
Circa 1950. The more things change....
And some beautiful AC tractors.
Regards, Mike
Looking to sell a nice Red Devon Bull. Anyone have suggestions on a good sale in the south central, MN region?
I've sold cattle in Albany before, and they have done pretty well. Just looking for other options.
Will also be selling a couple of Bred Herefords.
I just got a 200 gal 30 ft boom sprayer.. Didn't want to drop another $1500 for the foam marker. Any recommendations for a GPS tracker.. Anyone download and use an app for their android? I'd like to use something that you can program your width and it will show you where you've been.
Hi all,
I'm new here as historically we buy our hay, but I've used the forum quite a bit over the years researching knowledge. The Massey 1734 holds my interest for 2 reasons, it is rated for 30 pto hp, and we may be moving to a new farm which will allow us to make (some, most, all) our own hay. I have a JD 3520 which yes is a compact tractor, with 37 hp and 30pto hp, I've spoken with the dealer who claims yes I can do this. I'm sure some will tell me I'm nuts and it just won't work, but I am determined. We will have about 30-40 acres to hay, mostly flat with a few on a hillside, some slight inclines here and there. With weights, loader, and loaded rear tires the tractor comes in at about 4000 pounds. It is an open station tractor and my understanding is disc mowers should be used with a cab so I am looking at sickle bar mowers, Ferrabolli (sp?) and Frontier both make them with 7'-8' bars which is a pretty decent length to actually get some grass cut. Sickles have been used for quite a long time and have made a name for themselves as out dated and inefficient but the new ones seem to work much better. It's true I'm stepping back in time with a sickle (no disc and conditioner) and a baler that uses twine instead of net wrap, but these machines are on the market and sized accordingly for my tractor. I am also thinking of a Kuhn Haybob for tedding and raking, not positive though. All of this, though not as time efficient as bigger machinery, conceptually seems to jive with myself and the dealers I've spoken with. The Kuhn dealer thinks their smaller disc mower would be better. I have concern for the baler on hills (straight up and down, no side hilling) and the weight of the tractor. Would low gear offer me an extra measure of safety going down? Is there something about the extra stem length from a sickle that won't work with the baler (pickup)? I live in the Adirondacks on the edge of the Champlain Valley where small farms are tucked away in the mountains and most folks I can hire out are too busy and too far away, so I want to do it myself. We will be relying on direct sales of primarily cheese, yogurt, and milk, as well as vegetables to earn much of our income. We have a small herd of jersey cows and plan on 10 milking when we are up and running. Looking for thoughts and input on my line of thinking. I am not closed to the thought of a bigger tractor but would like to use what I have.
Thanks,
Mike
Who has tried Prowl H2O and what results did you get?
I found myself behind the 8-ball this year. Began addressing my pastures in Early August, but because of weather, work, and breakdowns, I didn't get everything in the ground until around Oct 1.
Alfalfa/orchard 20ac and Timothy 10ac were in by 9/18 (which according to folks around here should be fine) but I had 30ac of Bluegrass/Orchard grass that didn't make it until 10/1 and didn't get a rain until around 10/7. There was plenty of moisture about 1" deep, but I planted it into dry dirt at 1/4". I had pristinely smooth pastures before last week, but we had a 3" overnight rain Last Saturday followed by 2" Sunday and I now have 1-2" rivulet washed areas on almost all hillsides. I see some 1-2" grass poking itself through the soil, but I am worried that it won't reach a stage that will make it through the winter.
I know that it needs at least 4-6wks growth before freeze to make it, and I think, given the coldsnap we have had, that we are likely to freeze sooner rather than later this year. Barring an Indian Summer until TGiving.
My questions are... about what does KBR and Orchard look like (height and density) typically to sustain a winter in Kentucky?
And... If I have a weak growth come spring... is it best to 'do over' completely or simply overseed?
I ran about 1000lbs of winter wheat over the hills and washed areas this weekend, hoping to get some growth and keep my hills on the hill. But, I'm not sure if it will do any good given the late date. I may be dragging my fields out of the neighbor's ditch come spring
I am going cross eyed trying to match up balers for comparison.
Can someone with experience please list the model numbers for round balers from any manufacturer that would be CLOSEST to a new NH 450 w/ net wrap?
There is too many choices and options but I am trying to compare across the board to get most bang for the buck.
Thanks,
Ben
I am looking for a selfpropelled haybine and seeing if anybody had one or knew of anybody that has one that they dont use anymore that they would sell. Thanks
Looking for someone to cut and bale 30 acres of Bahia in Baytown, Texas. Hay needs to be cut and removed from the property as soon as possible. IT'S FREE!! Thank you.
Posted Today, 04:28 PM
Looking for someone to cut and bale 30 acres of Bahia in Baytown, Texas. Hay needs to be cut and removed from the property as soon as possible. IT'S FREE!! Thank yLooking for someone to cut and bale 30 acres of Bahia in Baytown, Texas. Hay needs to be cut and removed from the property as soon as possible. IT'S FREE!! Thank you.
I planted a small patch (3 acres) of alfalfa this spring, the stand was planted pure, at around 20lbs to the acre, drilled on 7.5" rows. the stand has been slow all year, but mainly because the lime was added late due to rain early on and last fall. either way the stand had some grass which was just cut along with the two cuttings I have done so far, but has finally been taken care of now. the stand currently is pretty good with some spotty acres, but averaging 6 to 8 inches tall around, I have decided to not take a third cutting as the weather is starting to cool down some here in MD and I am not sure I will have time for proper regrowth before frost, my main question is, with what I've taken off it in hay, which has averaged around 100-120 sq. bales per acre, 2 cuttings, and average bale weight of 45-50 lbs. What would be the best fertilizer I can apply now before winter comes. this time of year we get some good rains here in MD. also prior to planting 400lbs to the acre was added of 5-10-30 and around July after 1st cut 100lbs of N was added before a good soaking rain. the stand has been sprayed with 2-4-db and select to make it pure.
thanks.
I had to tighten up the drive chain for the hydraulic pump on my NH 1033 this summer and discovered that there was no setscrew or anything keeping the sprocket on the pump shaft other than the tension of the drive chain. I checked the NH parts website and there isn't a setscrew listed there, only the square key between the sprocket and shaft. Is this how it's supposed to be? There is a threaded hole on the sprocket where a setscrew could go, but I don't know if the designers intended for the sprocket to be able to float to keep from side-loading the roller chain. I'd rather not lose this sprocket because I didn't simply install a setscrew since NH wants $103 for a replacement sprocket.
Thanks, Josh
Please move this if need be, couldn't find where to ask the questions. I had a guy approach me about making some Rye straw, he needs about 200 4x5 round bales. I've made a lot of different types of hay but no straw, i'm a noob. What does it take to make some good straw. I have a disc mower, no conditioner and a tedder along with the other equipment to get it done ect. Does it need to be conditioned, do i cut it and let it lay for a week, rain, ted? I need some direction to see if its something i want to get involved with. any help would be great.
thanks
We have been growing aprox 70 acres of corn for silage every year for our beef herd, and have always hired a custom chopping crew to do it for us. in the spring they call us up and ask what we are doing for acres and are all gung ho to do it. when it comes time to chop their either way behind schedule due to weather or are 4 hours away and will be a week or two... or three before they get to us, or in some cases just dont show up. it kills me to watch all the money in 70 acres of corn to just dry up and have turn cows in to graze it. We have looked at doing it ourselves for a couple years but havnt done anything about it yet. If we had our own unit we would probably end up planting more like 100+ acres plus choping some first cut alfalfa. Having our own SP unit is out of reach so a pull type would be our only option. We would end up using a high dump wagon, then into a truck. Our longest hual would be 1.5 miles so maybe two trucks? We have a 7520 jd @ 140 odd pto hp to run it with.
My question is, what kind of acres can a relativly modern pull type do in a day? Also JD or NH?
Does anybody on here have any experiance with JF harvesters?
We love doing chopped silage but there has to be a more reliable way to do it.
Thanks
This is my first year of coastal bermuda hay and a week ago today about four hundred bales were done for horses. My nephew got two hundred bales for his horses. This week he told me his horses liked it much better than the hay he already had up. Said they really liked it but it also gave them diarrhea. Well there has to be reason they like some hay better than other and also the diarrhea.
It had not been sprayed with any chemical at least two full months. It was fertilized with a balanced blend (think it was 17-17-17) about end of May and then nitrogen applied about last of June. Both applications were about 150 pounds per acre. Both were granular. Rained heavy on it for the full growth and it grew for about six weeks before being cut. My nephew said it was rich hay and excellent hay. He is mixing it with the older hay and says they are eating it well and no more issue with diarrhea. Think there was one horse that it hit heavy but not all.
I realize there can many things here but it strikes me if the hay is liked by the animals the buyer will notice that and maybe become a bigger customer.
I have a John Deere 1219 mower conditioner that I rebuilt and I am having trouble getting the rollers in time. No matter which way I adjust it the rollers still touch in spots. Is there a starting point of clearance between the rollers, the manuel does not tell me. Does anyone have some idea what needs to be done? Thanks for your help in advance!
I have a John Deere 1219 mower conditioner that I rebuilt and I am having trouble getting the rollers in time. No matter which way I adjust it the rollers still touch in spots. Is there a starting point of clearance between the rollers, the manuel does not tell me. Does anyone have some idea what needs to be done? Thanks for your help in advance!
We're having a bit of a problem with our perennial peanut bales accumulating some form of webworm on the perimeter bales (tops and sides of the bales that are exposed). We barn keep all of our hay and only have an issue with the perennial peanut bales. We sell most of our hay to clients that feed it directly or resell it, so appearance matters, and having a web and worm fecal matter on the side is a bit of a deal breaker. I'd love to be able to spray a preventative when stacking bales, or at the very least, a killing agent once the worms appear. My concern is that anything I spray might ruin the aroma of the bales or (worse yet) be harmful to the livestock (dairy goats and high end horses).
Anyone have any ideas? Anyone experience anything similar with alfalfa webworms?
We have no damage in the field, it's only once baled and only if stored with abundant access to airflow (bales stored in a shipping container are clean as the day they were baled).
Here's what we're dealing with.
My custom hay baling neighbor lost his tractor & baler to fire day before yesterday. I suggest to check baler brg operating temperatures with a laser thermometer on a regular basis. It's also a good idea to have available a water filled fire extinguisher aired up to proper pressure with a small amount of liquid dish soap or Fire Out in the water. Neighbor was lucky to only loss a couple acres of Coastal to the fire. I lost a rd baler to a fire about 20 yrs back & it's not a nice feeling.
One thing in common with all rd balers is any color/brand is subject to burning.
Received this in a email this evening.....thought I would pass it on.
Regards, Mike
October 10, 2017 
Cargill Animal Nutrition is seeking to hire a Forage Sales Specialist. This position includes forage inoculant and acid sales and technical support activities, including account management responsibilities. It is a remote/work from home position with travel.
For more information and to apply, visit http://ift.tt/2yXIfqS.
I haven't had a chance to dig into it tonight because it got dark, but I was in the middle of baling and all of a sudden the pickup stopped turning. The PTO and slip clutch is turning but the pickup and the main drive chains are not. Any preliminary thoughts of what could have broke?
Thanks.
I went to the National Hay Association meetings near Rochester, NY two weeks ago, and one fellow showed the prototype (1/3 scale model) of a plungerless baler idea he's working on. I'll write that up in a future issue of the magazine. In other talk, some folks don't see the hay market demand returning - they think corn silage and sorghum are increasingly replacing hay in the dairy markets. Of course, horse hay markets are still strong, but if the economy dives, people tend to "give up" their "pets" (horses in the backyard). All in all, they weren't too positive about markets. What say ye? Are they right?
I need to add these were individual producers I spoke to and this wasn't by any means a presentation from the association. I just wondered what your thoughts were.
Lynn
@FarmerCline, here are the pics of my second cut brome you asked for a couple weeks ago. Right before it was cut, and then in the windrow.
The stuffer timing sequence and specs on a Hesston 4590 leave some room for interpretation. I realize that chain wear will cause some variance in where things line up. I'm using the process outlined on the machine and in the service manual.
Step 1: Rotate the flywheel to move the crank arm against the plunger stop. Easy.
Step 2: The stuffer shaft grease fitting must visible in, or no more than 2 inches left of the lubrication hole. Hmm. Does visible mean centered or up to 2" left?
Step 3: Rotate the flywheel until the plunger knives are the closest to the stuffer fingers. Measure distance. Stuffer fingers must clear plunger knives with 1/4 inch minimum clearance.
On the particular unit I'm working on at the moment, if I center the stuffer shaft grease fitting in the lube hole, my knife/finger clearance is 7/8 inch. If I jump a few links, I can easily set my knife/finger clearance to 1/4 inch, however when I do that, the grease fitting is now to the right of the lubrication hole. Mind you I can still see it if I look in at a slight angle, but it is not visible if looking straight in the hole.
What provides the most ideal stuffer timing - having the grease fitting visible or left of the lube hole, or getting as close to 1/4" knife/finger as possible?
Has anyone used this from Tug of War seeds? They told me it is not the same as the old stuff i used years ago that is hard to dry. Would like some input. Will be overseeded into Alfalfa
Earlier this summer, I sold my tired JD 457 and ordered a new Vermeer 504R Signature baler. I've searched on here, and found very little mention of this baler. As far as I know, I'm the only one around here with this baler. The dealer that I bought from said that mine was the first R that he has sold. So, I thought I would start a thread and share what I've found.
The 504R comes with a wide pickup and gauge wheels, a compressor roller in front of the pickup, bale ramps, and an electronic monitor. Here's the link to the factory web page: Vermeer 504 Signature
We finally dried out from all the rain and I had a chance to use it. I think the counter has about 125 rolls on it now. Here are my observations so far:
PROS:
1. This thing absolutely EATS hay! Because of record rains this summer, and very few days of sunshine in a row, I've only cut and baled twice. (normally, I'll cut 3-5 times per year) So, the hay was very tall and thick. With the outside wheels of my V-10 rake folded up, I still have massive windrows. This baler just doesn't care.
2. Makes very good looking, square-shouldered and very dense bales. I always thought that no other balers would compare to the JD on bale density. I have been proven wrong.
3. The hydraulics are super fast. The 504R opens the tailgate and ejects the bale in a fraction of the time that it took on my old 457.
4. The monitor is very user-friendly and helpful. The built-in moisture monitor is great!
5. It takes less HP to run than the 457. Noticeably less drag on the tractor.
6. Everything about it seems to be built heavy duty and made to last. The main drive chains are 80's. The chain to the pickup reel is a 60. (my 457 had 60 and 50 chain respectively) All of the drive roller bearings have grease fittings.
CONS:
1. The Vermeer only holds 4 spools of twine. (my 457 held 6)
2. The Vermeer "feels like" it has more tongue weight. Can't prove that, but the 457 felt a little more balanced.
3. Both twine feed through the same guides until they split at the twine arms. From time to time, during the first 100 bales, I had a few twine feeding problems. Don't know if that is an issue because the twine are together, or if it was just bad twine. I ran out of old twine at the same time the problem disappeared. The last 40 rolls, or so, have been trouble free. Maybe it was just breaking in?
As I get to use it more, I'm sure I'll come up with more picks and pans.
Feel free to add your "2 cents worth" or ask questions. I'd like for this to be a good discussion.
Greetings--raining again here in MN, so a good time to ask a question that's been on my mind...
Has anyone made a tined device to use with a tractor loader (in place of the bucket) to pick up loose hay?
I have two tractors with modern quick tach mounts, and I am thinking of buying a quick tach hitch, and welding a series of long tines (E.g. 3/4" rerod), spaced 6" to 10" inches apart, parallel to the ground and perhaps 7' wide...this I would carry on the front when I am raking hay, then I could pick up loose hay or in odd nooks and cranny's where I can 'nose-in' with the swatter, but can't really back in with the rake and pull together a windrow (to say nothing of being able to back the square baler in...)
This tined attachment would also be useful to use as an accumulator(???!) to slide underneath a couple/few bales to carry to the wagon?
Or, to gather up windrows of ruined, soggy, wet hay as I have on the ground now--ARGGH.
Please, if someone had developed something of this sort, I'd love to see a pic, or here your thoughts.
Thanks,
Mark
Hello everyone. New here from Lawrence, KS. I'm looking to build a grapple for a skidloader to handle our square bales each year. The doing it by hand stuff is starting to get real old.
I have a shop with all fabrication tools known to man that I can use to build something. I was curious if anyone here has built their own, and if you have any blueprints, materials lists, etc that I could follow to build one.
I really like the Maxilator Accumagrapple Elite http://ift.tt/2y5uCJh; Spending 5k-6k on a brand new one is just out of my budget. Plus having a fun winter project and building my own would give me something to do this winter!
Well, I'd love to hear what everyone else has done, and hopefully see some ideas, sketches, blueprints, etc.
Thanks
Morning/Afternoon all, Depening on where you are on this earth,
Just bought myself a Krone Vario pack 1500, busted it out today to have a look at it, most thing worked out, except the tailgate keeps opening as i try to bale?!?! I have set the tension as per the book, I am wondering if its a hydraulic leak in either tractor or baler? Bit naive with this stuff, thanks all!
Well this afternoon was great and uhh. First baling of land sprigged with coastal this spring was baled this afternoon. Rest to be baled next week. I want to thank each of your who have helped me get this far. Today was five acres in square bales for nephew's horses. It is a great feeling to see the crop harvested to see your efforts paying off.
I did buy a Maxilator and used it to load and it was my first experience with it and for all of us. Had a hose problem that shut it down for an hour and half. Not sure who here said they liked them better on a skid steer for visibility reasons and I will agree now having used it on tractor front end loader. But when I got it loaded liked the height of the tractor seat for loading on trailer as it never got above my eye sight on the trailer.
Now I am going to encourage some one who uses an accumulator/grapple to make a video on the fine points of using one. Such as how to line up the bales. I am no race care driver but seemed I was a nascar driving going into a curve when I tried to line up with a bale. Felt like the tractor was running highway speed.
It appears that a significant amount of the country (including hay country) are impacted with some sort of drought.
We already have customers that say their pastures are "done" and are starting to use more hay.
We watch the local hay markets and it does seem that prices are in a slow upswing.
Just wondering what others think prices will be this winter.
Granted CL ad doesn't state yr model or number of bales baled by baler but isn't this very cheap for a rd baler similar to this one?? Paint remains on pickup strippers so bale count couldn't be real high. http://ift.tt/2fOkOMU
Thanks,Jim
I may be looking at getting a few contracts to justify a no-till drill purchase. It will be 15' and 2 pt. hookup. My question is how big of a tractor would I need? I will be pulling hills. I have the IH 1586 that would need to have the 3 pt. fixed however would possibly look at upgrading to something a little newer and operator friendly. Have available to purchase a 7400. If I make a tractor purchase will be dropping the 1586.
If I do a tractor/drill thinking about $50,000. Just drill would look at about $20,000.
The other reason behind this thinking is the 1586 is a hindrance with the lack of 540 pto. So I put a chunk of money into 1586 to bring it up to a more usable tractor or kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
Years ago when I looked into this with a dealer he knew of a 15" being pulled with a 6400. I thought that seemed a little light of a tractor. just doing some out loud thinking.
I am wondering if anybody is still using a 5400. I have been using one for about 7 to 8 years now. I really like the baler for a few reasons. One is I can use a Massey 451 that sips diesel to run it it. lol I have been able to work out all my small issues as they have come along but one that is really starting to make me look for another baler is twine arm on the right (as you face the front) periodically will hook the string around the twine arm which will stall the electric drive motor. I have done the timing and twine arm spacing adjustments. I stop the arms about an inch prior to uncrossing. Neither arm touches the other on the way in. Last night I crawled under it and noticed that the right arm has a lot more slop in when extended out about 3/4 of the way. The other arm is rigid. Last season I pulled both arms to check the plastic bushings on both ends and both looked new. No wear I could see. I don't know if this slop could be causing the problem or not but was hoping someone could check theirs to see if that right arm has much slop or not.
I would really like to get this issue figured out. I had open heart surgery a couple years back and having to get off the tractor, on the ground, cut the loop, and get back on the tractor and wrap again is getting to me. I guess I should be happy I can still do it. lol
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
I have a New Holland 277 square baler. I bought it pretty cheap about 5 years ago. We did some maintenance to get it back to field ready, but overall I'd have to say that it has been a pretty good piece of equipment. This is the first year that we had issues with the way it would form the bales. Once they are tied they'll bow to one side, or sometimes bow up in the middle. I've adjusted the tension to try and equal them out, but so far that hasn't seemed to do much good. Now that hay season 2017 is over we plan on going over it to hopefully correct the problem. Does anyone have similar experiences that could shed some light on this? Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Looking for help identifying this disc harrow in order to order parts. Thanks
