New to the site here, lots of good information. Also new to the bale wagon world, I picked up a 1049 super for a heck of a price, only kicker several things needed to be reassembled. can anyone send or post some pics of the hydraulic lines from the cross conveyor and bale loader motor and where they hook up on the left side of the machine? This would be greatly appreciated.
Robert
This is what happens when someone looses a trailer hitch in the hay field and it gets found by a RazorBar... bad day for the boss who had to pay the bill and I never like making calls like this one even if I did not really cause the problem...
very effective way to find large heavy items in tall grass but not a very good way to get the hay cut.
Im looking at trying to offer a smaller length bale at a decent weight. I know I can reduce the bale length by adjusting my star wheel and its position.
Anyone have any experience on how short I can go, and what weight I might be able to obtain when going shorter.
Trying to compete with the compressed bale market as many horse owners love the small size and decent weight of the compressed bales. I know I wont probabaly get the same size and weight but can I get close?
Baling Timothy, Smooth Brome and Orchard.
Thanks
Cut my first hay yesterday, some at 10, the rest after 2. Used the high stubble shoes. Love them. Hay tedded better, dried better, raked better. Made 135 50# ave bales of og on 1 ac cut at 10. The rest was still too green to bale today. will be perfect tomorrow. about 6-7 ac more tomorrow. First experience with in line moisture meter. Man what a difference. Had two or three plunger strokes that were high (in the 20s), the rest averaged about 13% and ran up to a few 15%. Nice to know what you are doing as you are doing it. My only question, what took my fellow haytalkers so long to convince me it was a good idea? 
Best part of all, it is sold, will be gone tomorrow and the check deposited. Guy pays top dollar, takes it off my hay wagon.
I'm in upstate SC, my fields are almost pure Fescue.
I've finished my first cutting and we are expecting some rain during the next week and I'm wondering if I could/should top dress my Fescue.
I cut it about 5" high and think it might handle the heat better with more leaf...
I know with our hot temps around the corner that it will sort of go dormant during the high temps.
I wondering if either 17-17-17 or straight 32-0-0 would be ok, or maybe another mix, I haven't sent my soil sample off yet for this summer's reading but the last one ( last fall) came back looking good but then we had lots of rain during the winter and maybe leached some stuff away...
What do you experts say...
Thanks for your info I'm still learning....
The USDA says 2% of the nation are "farmers", but if you subtract truck drivers, waitresses, cooks and the like, there is actually 1/2 a percent feeding the other 99-1/2. Today I joined the ranks of many of you.
Its scary, so many farmers have tried and failed, and I will be honest, I had a well paying job as a welder at a shipyard building US Navy Destroyers so to give that up with 4 daughters and a stay-at-home-wife is scary.
For the last 6 months an at-work injury laid me up pretty bad and as I used my free time for our church, a christian camp for kids, and a reconsider for being a foster parent again; I realized maybe God had more in store for us. I am not advocating throwing everything to the wind, but while the shipyard paid well, I paid well for it in time. It was a 1-1/2 hour commute one way! 3 Hours a day in a van and 15 hours a week just traveling. As a Christian I reached out to those that were going through divorce, chemical dependency and family issues, but I loved the idea of really helping kids at a Christian Camp close by too.
We can swing it. We live on cash, stay out of debt and live VERY conservatively. Why not farm full time? I always wanted too.
As I said a lot; here 90% of the land base is forest and 10% is fields, but just 120 years ago it was the opposite. My plan is to cut the wood off these former fields and make them tillable again and raise our flock of sheep to sustainable levels. In 3 years time we should be able to make the transition slowly from making income on logging, to farming. My forester calculates about 6 years worth of wood, so if NOTHING else, at the end of 6 years I will have to enter the work force again.
Five years ago I had the chance to get a big grant because the person running the program wanted the credit for having the oldest farm in the county (1746-today), but I wanted God to get the credit. We have been fledgling along, but if we can make it as full time sheep farmers, God will get the credit not some politician or us.
Today was the day...as of 7 AM I am a full time farmer.
Working on an old Vermeer 605. I have the rear roller apart, but trying to figure out the best way to put the bearings back in and set them correctly. This baler has a solid shaft that has a bearing with lock collar on each end. Anyone have any experience replacing these?
It will show a little over a 1/4 tank when it starts to run out of fuel....fill it and off you go. Any Bobcat specific suggestions as to the problem?
Regards, Mike
The search for a good used tedder has not turned up anything that I considered as a good deal or the price was close to that of a new one, so I have decided to just purchase new. I am now looking at the Kuhn GH5202THA and need some input as to the quality and strength of this machine. My local dealer has this machine for $7,800 out the door cash price.
Hello everyone I recently bought a NH 479 in decent shape for 300 bucks everything functions but the bad is the bearings on the side without the PTO need to be changed and I am handy with a wrench and have removed the smaller sprocket and such but have no clue how to get that bearing off as the puller will not fit on there. Is there any good advice or suggestions you all can give me. I only cut 15 acres of hay twice a year and this is the upgrade from my sickle mower as I am just starting out. The mower cuts excellent and when I get into thick stuff it kicks the chain off and the rollers stop and clogs the machine. Thanks for everyones time I do have the service manual but it doesn't exactly say how to get the bearings off just how to get the rollers out. I have noticed the flanges ??? things that have the holes that the bearings supposed to rest in seem pretty thin and worn could that be the issue? The bearing looked ok but haven't really tested it.
Buddy sent me this video clip of a bale loader/unlaoder.
Anyone know anything about it? I've never seen one like it before.
Has anyone installed the infeed disc kit for the NH round balers? I was on Messicks site and it appears the kit is discontinued. Anyone remember what they paid? Was the kit worthwhile?
Here in dry but irrigated southern Idaho, we're trying to improve two and a half acres of timothy and weeds. Have planted a mix, of which the meadow brome took, and planted half to orchard grass which came on nicely after the seed passed a winter. Trying to kill off cheat grass, foxtail, and Medusa head. Finally sprayed the whole place with 2-4D for the broadleaves, but these noxious grasses are more of a problem. We'll make hay for the 1st time in a week or so.
My question--in places there is much thatch and when I burn cheatgrass patches, fire easily spreads under the timothy to burn the dry thatch. If I let this occur, will it kill the timothy? More generally, I know that in natural grasslands, fire is often a good thing. I am tempted to burn the whole pasture this fall...does anyone do this when trying to improve a hayfield?
Thanks for any thoughts.
I have a 8 wheel Befco rake that I'm considering trading or selling and updating to a rotary rake.
I have several smaller odd shaped fields and they are heavy fescue grass and the rake is giving me fits, it doesn't like heavy stuff at all.
It has 8 new wheels & hyd lines, it does need new tires as the ones on it now are the wrong height by 2".
I'm wondering what I could expect it to be worth ??
local farm equipment dealer ( Gene Holliday is Laurens SC, ) will take it on trade but a beginner hay fella up the road might want it also...
Just wondering what I should ask for it or sort of expect on a trade on a rotary rake?
I acquired it in a package deal about 3 yrs ago so I can't really say what I gave for it ...
Hi all,
I have a New Holland BB9080 baler I pull with a 8970 tractor. I recently hooked the baler up, but the monitor says there is no implement connected. I've checked all the connections and fuses. There aren't many options on the monitor screen. Anybody have any suggestions before I call a tech to drive 60 miles out here?
Thanks!
Okay, I have been looking at on board moister testers for my small square baler, has anyone on here used this brand???
"Agratronix" BHT-1 or the BHT-2"
What are the pro's and con's and is the 2 really worth a hundred bucks more???
Thanks for the help.
Sometimes I think too much and yesterday, while traveling around my hay fields, I got to thinking:
What if I mixed a field of OG and big blue stem? I'd have cool season grass for the spring/early summer, segue into warm season big blue stem for the summer, then back to cool season OG for the fall.
Anybody ever tried this? Wondering if one would smother the other out? Seems to me this would be fantastic for pastures! Would only have to feed December through March.
Ralph
Planted 80 acres of WL 372 RR seed 40 in the spring and 40 in the fall 3 years ago. Stands have been on a 4 cutting schedule and came in very well. First two years they both produced an average of 7-7.5 tons. Last year was the third year and the production dropped off to about 3 tons. Both stands have begun to get much much thinner and really are looking pretty rough, bad enough I put 10 lbs. of grass in one of them this spring planning on doing the same to the other this fall. Stands have been properly fertilized and we use yearly soil testing for diagnostics, water isn't an issue as we're irrigated, and we started with good stands so I just don't understand what's going on. Is the life of this stuff really this short?
I've been looking for a set of 45 ft booms to put on my 3 point hitch sprayer but couldn't find anything, ended up buying a tow behind 300 gallon George White sprayer with only 24 ft booms from a sod farmer. Was told the owner looked after his gear really well so didn't look too closely which was a bit of a mistake.
-Stainless tank has goo in it form mixing Par3 herbicide with RV antifreeze that looks like it will plug the nozzles
-PTO shaft need rebuilding
-Pump has drain plug epoxied in with signs of rust and leakage around it
-Brand new foamer is missing the control box and foam jug
-Lots of rotten hose
On the plus side
-New tee-jet nozzles
-Fancy dandy stainless and cast aluminum hose reel, about 30" wide, 18" diameter.
-new sectional valve
Anyone have tips about cleaning it out? I think Round Up is known to dislodge a lot of crap in the tank isn't it? Could let it agitate for a while.
I up graded to a new to me 504N about 500 bales ago, W/O bale shape sensors, did I mess up, I never had a problem with the old baler.. The sensors are available as a field installed kit, So my question is, had anyone done this? is it a ez install? Is it a plug & play? The monitor has the bale shape already installed (i think).
Thanks in Advance
CB
Seems like a lot of steel for the job, but I like the idea.
Ralph
Looking for a reliable 4x5, net wrap round baler. Wanting a belt baler, no bar & chains. Don't want anything ancient but not wanting to spend the money to buy new right now either. Anybody have any suggestions?!
New user here, but have browsed the forums for quite some time.
I bought a 604M last fall to replace my old 504L with and this weekend was the first time that I got to use it. It's one of the early balers, '05 or '06 off the top of my head, but has less than 5k bales thru it and could pass for less than a year old. The baler does fine in dry hay, but if the hay is the slightest bit damp it doesn't like to start the bale. It forms a wedge shaped plug in the vertical chamber and has hay packed in pretty hard where the augers push hay into the pickup.
My windrows are 4' wide and well formed, crop is orchard grass/fescue mix. My old 504L has over 15k on it, and hasn't plugged in well over 5k bales - pretty happy it's still sitting in the barn at this point. The last time it plugged was because the short chain that runs the starter roller had broke, and I was able to finish the field without the starter roller by taking my time getting the bales started. The problem lies in the new baler, I'm 100% certain of that.
I've talked briefly with the local Vermeer dealer over the phone, not really wanting to bother him over the holiday weekend. You cannot ask for a better dealer, he's one of the few dealers that I would gladly consider a personal friend - as good as they get. I live in Virginia and bought the baler from a JD dealer in Missouri last fall, which kind of threw up a red flag to me. My dealer suggested removing the end "ears" off of the auger flighting and tightening the main tension springs, which I did. Neither of these had any effect on damp hay performance. I also adjusted the pickup cam both directions and neither had any effect.
This is one of the early balers with the slick belts, and I've got myself convinced that the belts are the cause of the problem. I'm just curious if anyone here has been down this road, or has any other recommendation? If I do replace the belts, are there any better options out there than the Mini Rough Tops? Anyone ever put the JD style belts in a Vermeer? US Baler Belts is reasonably close for us, and seems to have about the best prices on belts.
Sorry for the long winded post, just trying to be thorough. Thanks in advance for any information that you may have.
anyone have information onset up and operation of a Morro/Massey fergusion 2260 disk mower?
I've never messed with any alfalfa here. I mainly put up small squares of brome and usually have no trouble selling them for a decent price. I have a field I'm killing off to seed back to brome this fall, I'm just tossing around the idea of putting some alfalfa in with it. I have a disc mower with no conditioner, no tedder either. Not sure how well it would dry? I know the grass helps the alfalfa dry faster, but I would think I'd need a tedder since I don't have a conditioner.
I here about blister beetles getting in alfalfa, I'd hate to be responsible for someones horse. Would it be worth it to do a alfalfa/grass mix? Just wondering if it be worth doing the alfalfa/grass mix, if it be that much more profitable than just selling my straight brome bales?
I have a five year old JD 458 baler. It has only baled about 3,000 rolls and is in very good condition, I think. I can't say that it has been trouble free but I seem to have an issue around which I can't work.
I have begun heavily fertilizing my fields and getting a lot more tonnage per acre. That means my pick up rows are larger. The baler has always been prone to hang up if it got too much hay at one time, but now, I'm having to literally creep along at maybe 2 mph to keep from over loading the baler; especially if the hay has any extra moisture.
Yesterday, it hung up and the belts moved laterally. I will have to take it to John Deere shop to get it fixed. I called a friend who has a New Holland 7060 to come bale the field I have cut. He assures me that the NH will walk right through the heavy rows.
The current performance of the 458 is simply unacceptable. So, is the New Holland better, or do I just need to get a larger baler?
Troyplan
From time to time I need to turn my windrows to dry. I have been wanting to purchase a 2 wheel rake 3 point mounted. It seems like it would work but wondering if anyone else has luck doing this. My other though was a 166 inverter. My situation is flat ground. First cut is Alfalfa/grass mix. Let me know if you have had luck with a rake like this. I attached a pic from he web, Thanks
Hi, so I'm looking at a piece of land that had sub irrigation/drainage. The depth of the pipe ranges from 3' at one end and goes down to 6' at the other. It has timothy planted at the moment but I know that the roots don't go down far enough for it to do anything for the crop. I'm going to drill in Alfalfa and Orchard Grass as the Alfalfa roots will grow deep enough that the sub irrigation can provide water to them and the Orchard Grass, I've read is more competitive and can beat some invasive weeds that may grow. Now my question is: can the water brought up by the alfalfa somehow moisten the upper layer of the soil a bit so the grass can use it? If it can I know it wouldn't amount to much but any little bit helps right!? Any input on this would be greatly appreciated!
So I have the Harvest Tec applicator on top of my NH round baler.
One of my better customers buys my bales and feeds them to a good size herd of rescue and easy keeper horses. My last delivery to her last fall she commented some of my bales had a "vinegar" smell to them. She took me to the round bale feeder and there was one of my bales, just opened. She was right. I did detect a vinegar smell in an otherwise very nice looking bale.
She insists its the preservative and I tend to agree with her. She told me she wont buy any more with preservative, and honestly I couldn't blame her. When i got back to my shop, I pulled open a few RB's and they had some of that smell in them, too.
Sooooo, is there an alternative to Crop Saver that will work in my applicator that doesn't have such a strong smell? I remember someone mentioning a liquid alternative that had an apple scent to it.
I don't want to change the applicator, just the preservative.
Any suggestions for horses?
To ALL,
I need orchard grass cut and baled on 14 acres in west central Illinois. Large square's 3x3x8 , 3x4x8 or 4x4x8 needed only.
Storing large rounds and selling a portion of cuttings are not worth it. I live 8 miles south of Carlinville , IL. in macoupin county .
or 50 miles north east of St.Louis . Anyone knows someone in my area , Please let me know. I have spraying and fertilizer applied.
Half of bales to operator and half to me or I pay cash to have it done for ( 2 ) cuttings a year. Most people have round baler's in our area. Extend variety Orchard grass planted since 2011 . I will load bales on trailer for operator if need be.
Thanks
John Bunk
Shipman , illinos
Macoupin county
bunk@frontiernet.net
Well, things come in bunches ........ good bad or indifferent!
Since I was a kid ......... about 40 years ago ........ plus a little ............ I have always wanted a SP baler ..........
And if you are patient enough ........... persistent enough .......... and observant enough ......... sometimes your ship sails in!
Mine did about three weeks ago!
A neighbor bought a new inline Ferguson 16X18 a while back and I ran into him at the local NH parts store. He owned three SP balers, two 1283's twine and a 1281 wire.
I asked him to let me know if he ever thought about letting go of one .................
So a couple of years later .............. he drives in unexpected and tells me .................. I can have the whole passal.
The price ......... well lets say it was three for the price of ONE!
Now there's problems ....... of course with them ............. that's why he went off the deep end and bought the inline!
He gives me a complete run down on them .......... but I am not deterred!
So we get them home ........ only about two miles separate us ........ we tow one on a car dolly and drive the other two to our ranch and we tear into the one that's supposed to be the first to get running.
The neighbor was positive that the bearing on the output shaft on the motor was bad .......... we thought .......... sweet ....... it's no sweat taking the motor loose and changing that bearing .......
We get the motor loose in no time and set it on the ground and take out a perfectly good output bearing!
Now we go looking ............... and we find the real culprit ...........
I would say that a owner prior to my neighbor had worked on the next drive shaft from the engine and used a bolt that was too long to seat that pulley on the tapered spline ....... after a number of years of running and getting by ...... it ruined the pulley and damaged the shaft.
If you can find it ............ those two items are about $1K ......... and bearings are another $200.
So we send out an "SOS" to another neighbor who is the number one guru on these machines in my area hoping he has the parts and will part with them.
He wanted to check his inventory before he'd commit but instead offered some other advice ........ he's had sold two other wire SP's to another farmer who had passed away about 12 years ago and that ranch sold and the machines were just sitting there unused all that time .......... one ........... another 1283 wire and the other ..... a stripped out hulk of a 1281 wire.
I got a hold of the property owner and secured his enthusiastic permission to look at them ........
We came to terms and towed that whole passal home as well.
So now ........... at five self propelled balers ...........
I think my neighbor with the car dolly is going to change his phone number ............ LOL! ......... you see, I have word of another SP baler about 20 miles away that's not used much ............ hmmmm
Best regards
Three 44s
Alright all, I'm hoping I put this in the right place. I've been farming 120 acres of lease ground for a few years now and the wife and I are going for an FSA loan now to buy 40 more. At this point my Hesston 8400 just isn't doing the trick anymore, and I think I want to go to a hydro swing moco. I've looked at the Massy 1383 most seriously, but have looked some at New Holland and Deere as well. I was hoping to go for a new Massey as my dealer here had informed me that he could probably set me up for around 34K. So I had them come down and look at my 8400 for a trade, and now the 1383 is 37K and they only want to give me 7 for the 8400. Feeling kind of like I'm getting jacked around here, and it got me thinking how tough is it to find these machines running around in good condition. I have no huge preference between Deere, New Holland, or Massey, those are what I can get worked on here, I just need it to run when I'm ready to cut, seems like with my sickle machine I spend more time messing with the header than I do cutting hay. Also, is this changing price stuff normal I have bought and traded other equipment with these guys before and never had this issue, and my 8400 is well used but it's not a pile I just had finished 80 acres with it the morning they came down to look at it.
I have a MASSEY 1840 BALER. Makes excellent bales but has loose strings.Hay dogs are good . weight is good. String coming from twine box has no drag on it. Don't know if that is it or not. Suggestions please.
Not hay related but my boss is looking for a couple bags of seed to plant for deer Food plots. The only thing we can get local is a variety that is 450 a bag. He is looking to buy 2 bags. If you have a source for it please get in touch with me. Located in NW Arkansas and its not really grown for hay around here.
Jeff
Anyone know where I can get parts, specifically pickup teeth for my Case 330 small square baler? Thanks
I am thinking about buying a Vermeer 504 PRO baler. Wanting to hear from anyone who has one or who has baled with one. Thanks!
Ok bought a 504L baler a month ago, had the dealership I bought it at put new Hydraulic lines that run from tractor to the hydraulic block. Well they didnt tighten one down so the other day were gettin her ready and opened the tail gate and was about 3/4 of the way back down and the hose that wasnt tightened down pops off. Luckily it didnt strip the threads, we cleaned it up and put back together but ever since then the tail gate will raise but wont go down. We have bled it we have checked for trash in line going to tractor, adjusted the valve on the block, nothing is working. Can someone help us out please, any thoughts or advice is welcome. Thanks
Where the Buffalo roam....and the liberals are disallowed all day. 
Regards, Mike
Of the natural variety.....Progressive Forage Grower.
Regards, Mike
I am new to baling hay with this baler, so this may be an easy solution but I have hay in the field and need some help. The baler was working fine and I noticed that the belts are turning but the pickup stopped moving. This happened after ejecting a bale. PTO is running with no issues. I figured if it was a shear bolt it would stop the belts also. There is no hay in the baler. Any suggestions on what to look for would be appreciated. And yes I am a novice just learning.
Brand new to the market patented bale-handling attachment.
Fully-hydraulic tilting allows operators to pick up a bale, then engage a second bale without setting either bale down, or reversing.
Huge time saving potential and saves net wrap from damage.
Very convenient for loading inline bale trailers also.
Introductory promotional pricing.
More information available here
http://ift.tt/25kosQK
My goal is to make high quality hay, and I'm working with 45 acres this year. 24 acres of alfalfa and 21 acres of Timothy. I have access to a Pequea 710 fluffer and a New Holland bar rake, so I don't have to make a rush decision and get something purchased. But if I was to invest in a tedder or a rotary rake, which piece of equipment would offer the most advantage to speeding dry time to retain food value and shorten weather windows?
I have a Crop Care ATX40 sprayer with a boomless nozzle. I calibrated my Kubota RTV500 as running 10mph full our in low-2wd. At least if I have pedal to the metal, I know how fast I am going. Nozzles set at 36". Info sent with the nozzle kit says that is 4gpa at 30 psi which is a good pressure to run the 12 v pump at. So, spraying rup or forefront. with forefront, need 19-34 ou per ac product. My question for those of you that have used this type of arrangement-with that low an application rate (4 gal per ac) am I better off doubling the water and spraying it twice or just put 20 ou in 4 gal and let her rip. Spraying paddocks that are small. thanks.rick
I ended up getting the IH 47 baler for $200, and with a few hours of tinkering with the knotters, I cranked out my first few bales ever. What a good feeling! The outside knotter leaves one of the ends pretty short, so if I make a really tight bale, that side will slip out of the knot. Any thoughts on that? Bothe sides leave a pretty short end, but the one is slightly shorter than the other. Should I just tighten the bill hook cam spring a little?
Also picked up a IH No.14 rake in great working order for $600 from a local equipment auction. It's pretty cool to know that I'm gona be able to hay this year. It's a pretty big deal for us. My wife and I are beyond stoked!
Chris
I made the bales short so I didn't have to feed a ton through it for testing purposes. My wife loves them though! Ha ha
I am having an error anytime I am on HT. It give me an error that states something about an unresponsive script and locks up. The error message tells me I can either stop script, debug or continue. The debug or continue does nothing, screen remains locked up. I can tell it to stop script and it will unlock the screen for a few minutes and then right back we go. Has anyone else had this problem or know what I need to do to correct it. As long as I don't open HT it never happens but if I open HT it will start in a few minutes and continue until I close it and open it again, then it starts all over again.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Needing Help!!!!!!!!!!!
Just wondering how many of you NC-VA-PA hayguys are going to attempt to make dry hay with the alleged 4 days of better weather we have coming. Looks like the weather will close in on Monday for all next week so if you push it and have no wetwrap option, you have a double mess, lost hay and messed up field. My gut says the ground will be too wet so even if I could get the hay made, and that is a big if, the damage to the field would not be worth it. Can't even bushhog paddocks here today, might be able to by Wed or thurs and our ground is all well drained. Tropical humidity now with the sun just breaking out so I anticipate another toad strangler this pm. Probably won't get a drop in Aug and early sept and won't get a second cutting just like last year. Oh well, I can go Kayaking...
Anybody have any idea if there is a place to get slip clutch parts for a John Deere 709 mower other than Deere? The local chain of dealerships doesn't seem to want to bother with the small guy, based on their prices. I'm looking for the frictions and the steel plates. This is a pull type mower with the 3 joint pto shaft, is there an affordable way to reduce the drive line chatter when cornering?
Got a 20ac hay field that got seeded two weeks ago. It was seeded to alfalfa+OG+timothy. The alfalfa and grass are starting to germinate but there is a nice crop of broadleaf's that are also coming. What does everybody recommend for spraying? What stages do you spray at also?
Hello all!
I have a 2001 NH 688 Round baler, twine tie only.
Start of second season with this baler. Starting baling very first bale, all was normal until reached size setting....
Monitor alarmed that bale size was reached, stopped machine, twine arms extended to center of bale and started to tie
bale center and never move towards outer edge of the bale. I switched monitor over to manual to try and retract arms
to tie outer edges of the bale. Arms still wouldn't move outward. While it was still running,I held down on the retract button
to try and move arms. As I held down on the button, the monitor would shut totally off. I powered monitor back up, pushed the retract
button again, same thing. I shut off pto to baler, put monitor in manual mode, pressed retract and monitor still shuts off.
Anybody ever see this? I cleaned all connections with electrical cleaner all wiring looks good.
Another related question, is the electric over hydraulic motor that moves twine arms, powered in both directions?
I'm trying to figure out the fix for this, fairly good at electrical stuff, just trying to figure out where to start.
Thanks for any help!
I bought a Hay Cutter HC5 M&W disc mower at a sale that looks to be in good shape but can't find any info on who if anyone has parts. Blades I can find local but if I need a bearing or something where do I look? I can't find a manual or anything on these even on e-bay. I did find where to check the gear oil, half way up the bar of all places.
Drilled this 2 weeks ago with a HayVan drill that was rented from Soil Conservation. I didn't much care for the drill but it looks like it is coming up pretty good. Drilled in a existing meadow that I burned down so you have to look in the dead stuff to see any thing but it is good and thick in area's. Placed 3.5lbs per acre and had a hard time keeping drop tubes unplugged so some got more than others.
Quick & Big....
I am a newbie. I have heard windrows when raked together, should have been laid down in the same direction? And if you cut and have laid it down, what direction should you pick it up to bale it? Thanks for the help.
Anyone used it? Anyone know where to buy it or other similar products?
I wouldn't mind trying it under my baleage but was thinking if I could find some in black it would be an ideal way to store dry rounds outside butted together as well.
Thanks,
-Matt
I'm trying to tighten up the reel chain on NH 479 haybine,I removed the belt and reel chain and loosen the adjustment bolt on the inside.
And I've removed the other 2 bolts that hold the adjustment bracket (inside) and the shaft will not rotate nor can I drive it out from the inside with a brass punch and a BFH. The chain has about 1 inch of slack and the manual says 1/4 inch. Any ideals and or advice? Its been raining and now dry enough to cut hay but they're saying rain Tues and rest of week here in southern IL.
Thanks joe
So I have a small alfalfa patch (2A) that is in its' second year. It was planted in the fall of 2014 and in the spring of 2015 we got 30" of rain on it in March thru May. This washed about half of it away so I just let it run its course last summer taking 4 cuttings off it though it wasn't real thick. Fast forward to this year, the field looks pretty good (2 cuttings already) with some fescue and ryegrass (have no clue how that stuff got there) filling in some of the voids. So this got me thinking that maybe i need to mix in some grass this fall such as fescue or ryegrass to give me a little more tonnage in the thin spots of the field. I found this on the Pioneer Seed website:
"Timothy, orchardgrass, ryegrass and reed canarygrass are all popular forage grasses, but the grass recently receiving considerable attention is tall fescue, especially now that many endophyte-free varieties are on the market. Tall fescue has good adaptability to variable soil drainage conditions, mixes well with alfalfa and has the potential for high yield and quality."
Not sure what reed canary grass is but I'm guessing it won't grow in my area just as timothy and orchard grass will not. I am thinking that fescue would be a better grass for just growth in my area but I don't like how it clumps and then there's the endophyte issue though I've been cutting some fescue that grows with my bermuda hay and it has not caused any problems while feeding. Not sure if rye grass would be something that I would have to seed every year or if it will come back cut after cut.
I try to cut every 32-35 days depending on the rain so whatever I plant will need to grow in concert with the alfalfa. Another option would be to just run some stockers on it in the fall and winter then disc it under in early spring and sprig in some Midland 99 bermuda. Thoughts??
I am new to hay baling. Bought a used NH 310 baler from a dealer last year and have had nothing but problems with it. Wanted to bale my own hay for my horses. Right now the picker won't rotate, not even by hand. Broke 2 of the picker teeth already by pulling on it. I replaced the clutch slip discs from the main drive, it ran for about 5 minutes then locked up again. Does anyone have any ideas as to what else I should be looking for? Appreciate any help. Thanks.
If you have one siting around, we could use it.
We have a baler with less than 800 bales on it with no monitor.
More disappointing agricultural outlook.....I remember reading two years ago that Deere was forecasting that the "downturn" would begin to turnaround in 2016.
Regards, Mike
I have posted this on other sites trying to get a leg up on issue. Thanks for any advice.... 2002 4345 power shuttle 12x12. It will sometimes go into neutral wile using, and shifting the transmission in neutral and the forward/reverse lever in neutral fixes it sometimes, other times I have to turn tractor off and then back on before it will go into gear. Seems more common in colder temps. I do get the trouble code 6-2 flash once in a wile but if it does that all I have to do is rotate the clutch speed engage knob and it goes away, and its done that since new and other than blinking and beeping it does nothing to the function of tractor. Its got to be some electrical glitch here. Im leaning toward the transmission control module but I don't know what to start replacing. Anyone with experience with this? I have about 1300hr on the clock. I have changed all transmission fluid/filter, and I get 4-4 code sometimes when it kicks into neutral that states 'solenoid valve short to ground or wiring open circuit'. I pulled floor up and made sure power shuttle solenoids wire connections are clean and on solid. Also, which seems odd, the gear shifter seems hard to wiggle back and forth sometimes, like the linkage needs oiled, and that might be the case.This year I am getting into rolling my own hay and really don't want to have to restart tractor off with bale in baler.
I thought it might be okay to discuss this here. The USDA does allow farmers to cut wood and allow proceeds to be considered as farm income, and I do that on my farm a lot. Slowly I am transitioning from heavy logging to more involvement with sheep, clearing forest into new fields as I go. Here the land base is 90% forest and only 10% field if that gives you an idea of how much logging dominates.
Its been awhile since I cut wood though and had heard that prices were down. They are...on certain pulpwood species like hemlock, fir and spruce. With so many paper mills closing of late, and cheap oil has killed the firewood market, it is hard to get rid of softwood pulp. Biomass is moving, but a new biomass plant is opening up close to me, so soon I can get rid of that even easier, but saw logs is the surprise.
Spruce Budworm, Hemlock Woolly Adelgid, and Emerald Ash Borer have not got to Maine yet so the prices are high because other locales are hurting. We used to get $350/m for Ash, but now it is up to $650/m with oak logs going for $1200/m along with some other high prices. Maple palletwood is paying more then logs due to the powerline companies building lines through New England and needing crane mats (8 X 8 timbers 16 feet long, bolted together to make panels 4 feet wide to drive on. Hardwood pulp is moving, but slowly while softwood is just plain dead. Loggers are leaving it in the woods. I am thinking when I get to logging after memorial Day Weekend, I might buy another sawmill and convert what otherwise would be wasted tops into usable lumber. I have a rotary mill, but with small diameter logs a bandsaw and its small kerf is what really works well for getting the most usable lumber out of a log. I can see where it would be okay for typical logging operations to leave the tops in the woods to rot, but where I am clearing for fields, I can't leave a mess like that and its always nice to have lumber.
They are running power transmission lines for wind turbines near me. Came home to this. Heavy heavy equipment must have been on the flat piece. Compacted down 2" - 3" and rough as heck.
Got a little irate when they wouldn't give me a number to call, finally had someone come out and talk to me. They said they thought it was just wild land (I don't know what that is).
Had a long talk about compaction, crop damage, value. I know it was a small piece of land, but it is my piece of land. They said they'll, "fix it". I said no, I'll value the damage and you can pay me to fix it. They said no problem.
Still "grrrring" inside.
We have one hay field of about 10-12 acres I think I am going to try Teff on this year. It is in need of a renovation, and I wasn't able to get it fertilized this spring yet, due to all of the rain we have had, and my work schedule. I was planning on broadcasting my seed after we take 1st cutting off, so probably around the beginning of June, and then discing it lightly. I wasn't sure if I can also broadcast my fertilizer on then, before we disc, or should I wait a couple of weeks to let the Teff get going? I know that this ground is not very fertile. We plan on coming back after our last cutting in the fall and putting in wheat, and if the Teff works out this year, trying it again next summer. Any suggestions on getting a good stand going would be appreciated. I am in Northeastern Ohio.
Got tired of paying the high prices for sisal twine and the threat of shortages, made the switch to plastic twine for my NH 316 baler. Replaced some worn out parts that might have affected a good knot. Replaced bill hook pinions, bill hooks, flat spring, extension spring and twine holder. Instead of paying $51 for sisal (9000ft roll), I paid $25 for plastic (9000ft roll).
I am looking to plant about 10 acres or so of alfalfa to sell in my area of Central-Southside Virginia. I have never grown hay before except when I was younger on my grandmother's farm with my uncle so this is very new to me. I am wondering if I could get some advice on best planting practices, type of used equipment, harvesting techniques, etc in order to begin as well as possible. I am most certainly not expecting to make very much money in this venture but as a partial hobby and to create a good work ethic in my children. My plan is to offer the hay I grow to horse farms
I have had my land looked at by some other older farmers in the area. They are by no means experienced in alfalfa productions but results were good and favorable for alfalfa as far as drainage etc. I understand this opens up many avenues and opinions but I am open to all suggestions. Also, if anyone knows of any pay-for consultants I can contact for my area I am happy to go that route as well.
Thank you very much in advance for your time and assistance.
i have a massey ferguson / heston 1372 mower conditioner which i bought new and have used for 5 years with no problems looking at a new john deere 946 would lije some imput on the deere 946 are they comarable models thanks
Looking to upgrade tedders. The Claas Volto 52T and the Kuhn GF502THA or GH5202THA are the ones I am considering mainly. Looked at some cheaper tedders such as Bush Hog and Durabilt(Enrossi). Kuhn dealers are more plentiful but used a Claas a friend has last year and liked it, plus they got 0% for 48 months.
Well I will be danged....that is two huge blows against the greenie weenies in 2 days....they will be left babbling. I am sure they will somehow blame Donald Trump....you know, how his big money bought the results. 
Regards, Mike
Pretty excited about getting a discbine. I picked up a 1999 New Holland 1411 yesterday. It's been sitting for the last few years, but has always been stored indoors, and was used on an 18 acre farmette. Hope to cut with it this week yet. It definitely needs new knives, and I'm thinking changing the gearbox and cutter bar modules oil would be a good idea. I did not get an operators manual or service manual, so I'd be happy to learn what oil should be going into these units, and any other advice for service/maintenance. Thanks!
If so please PM me. Thanks
So I have a two day, (Maybe) period without rain. I have some wheat that I sure would like to get cut and wrapped for high moister hay/feed. Any thoughts? I am wondering if I can get it to dry at all in that time and be okay with the baling and wrapping. Temperature is not suppose to be to good either, upper 60's to around 70.... Not ideal I no but it really needs to go....
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
I posted earlier about my Bermuda fields located in North alabama heading out about 3 weeks early and very short.I fertitized april 15th.with 90 units of nitrogen and potash per soil samples.I just aint had any rain.I had this weed last year and I have it again and bad.I sprayed Roundup last fall when the grass went dormant.I was going to spray again this spring but the Bermuda grass greened up before I could.For the first time I burned fields off and then we had a warm spell and Bermuda grass greened up before weeds were there to spray roundup.What a mess I will never burn again.
I am just ready to cut this trashy short mess and hope for a good second cutting.When and what can I use on the rattail fescue?
I would like to reset the clock to the correct time, and have no idea how to set it. I really thought I could figure it out, but as it turns out I can't. I believe that it is the original radio that was installed at the factory. Does anyone have any idea how to rest this damn thing.
Ok, I realize two totally different systems, but just trying to get any or your experience on these two accumulators, haven't found the info I wanted from the internet or talking with sales reps. So my idea is to sell square bales to the horse crowd, seems to be a good market in my area. My father and i have sold 5-8000 bales per year in the past with our left over hay, All by hand. So wanting to now hay about 15000-20000 bales per year. We have some hills and turns in irregular shaped fields, most or our fields are close to where our storage barn is.
Now onto the accumulators. I really like the idea of the kuhns. Simple, less to go wrong down the road. BUT.. with our case sbx540 ( basically a nh570?) with hydraulic tension, we sometimes loosen it off all the way ( and have a thrower into wagons) to make the bales we need to if its a bit humid or getting close to evening. With the back pressure of the 3-4 bales going up the shoot of the kuhns, I'm thinking it will make the bales too heavy, even with no chamber tension. We try to keep the bales at 40-45lb, 36". Is this an issue? Im on the east coast of Canada, and we get sometimes humid weather for weeks in the summer, sometimes the bales need to be slightly less tight to not heat. I obviously try for a dry period to get it nice and dry, but gotta sometimes work with the unpredictable weather. Thats my biggest concern with the kuhns is bale consistency and can I keep the bales at 40lb for the horse crowd? I could bale 50-60lb bales but when I put the price up accordingly, people are funny around here and don't see the heavier bale, they just see the higher price. And they like a manageable bale for their kids/teens to feed the horses.
I could maybe get a tank on the baler and put annoculant into the bales for keeping better ( I think, haven't done research on this yet)?
Now the steffins tilt table looks better for bale consistency, and perhaps our hills as well. But will it keep up with a kuhns for capacity (the case baler can punch the bales in a hurry if you want)? Also I believe they are more money and more components to break/adjust and mess with down the road, I really like simple and reliable. I have read good things on their durability, but there are still more moving parts, hydraulics, sensors and adjustments to deal with.
So if someone has a few minutes to reply that has experience with either of these accumulators, It would be very helpful to me. i don't know of anyone in my area with an accumulator. everyone goes round, big square, or small square by hand, which I want to move away from for obvious reasons. Thanks!
I bought a hay fluffer on an auction quite reasonably. Main reason I bought it I thought it would work nice for picking up the end rows that get run down when cutting the hay, but would like to use it more than that if it works like they say. It's an A&L Model. My question is #1 when I do fluff the hay after I cut? #2 do they still make parts for this machine, having a hard time tracking down the company that made it.
How much real advantage is there in having a conditioner with a disc cutterbar if you have a tedder?I only ask because a disc mower conditioner is out of my range and might need to replace the sickle-bar mower/conditioner at some point. Thanks for your input.
