Not A friend had a chance to try out a new self propelled sprayer this past week, The joystick handle for the hydro first gave him problems as he was in some soft ground and instead of pulling the machine thru it just gave up and stopped. It is the kind of ground you have to keep rolling thru because if you stop you are stuck. So they got it pulled out not to bad. 2 days later he is spraying around a water way and it gives up on him again and stuck, so they pull it out but as the tractor stops because the machine is out he pulls back on the hydro in the sprayer and it doesn't stop, he has to go all the way to reverse and then it starts backing up but not before getting close enough to the tractor to break the back window. Luckily that was the only damage. New joystick handle is suppose to fix it. His 5 year old sprayer is sitting in the shop waiting for a new little black box.
Not A friend had a chance to try out a new self propelled sprayer this past week, The joystick handle for the hydro first gave him problems as he was in some soft ground and instead of pulling the machine thru it just gave up and stopped. It is the kind of ground you have to keep rolling thru because if you stop you are stuck. So they got it pulled out not to bad. 2 days later he is spraying around a water way and it gives up on him again and stuck, so they pull it out but as the tractor stops because the machine is out he pulls back on the hydro in the sprayer and it doesn't stop, he has to go all the way to reverse and then it starts backing up but not before getting close enough to the tractor to break the back window. Luckily that was the only damage. New joystick handle is suppose to fix it. His 5 year old sprayer is sitting in the shop waiting for a new little black box.
Just saw a film on Kverneland where they run an electronic sled behind a tractor, this sled maps the fields and type of soils I think it also determines level of fertility, but not sure about this last one. All this info is uploaded to a ThumbDrive which is later inserted into a USB on a Kverneland IsoMatch Tellus Pro monitor, this monitor downloads all the info from the thumbdrive and suddenly one is all set up for planting fertilizing, skipping rows etc. Quite the set up IMO.
Found a NH 411 that looks like it is in reasonable condition. Never had a disc conditioner before but everyone warns me about them being expensive to repair and high maintenance when they get older. I really want to go with a disc as I drastically need to increase my mowing speeds because I work a day job. My son literally destroyed my old mower by mowing first cutting too fast and plugging it so bad we busted the barrings on the rolls. Really want to know if these smaller ones were just dogs or can I mow 40 acres 3-4 times a year without having too much problems. Thanks
I had a bolt sheer on the belt tension roller inside the baler and I'm wondering how you get to the ends to work on it. There are access holes at the top but it doesn't look like the roller with line up with any of them. I have the parts to fix it but unsure of how to get the roller off.
Haven't posted in a while, but was wondering if someone could help me out. I bought an older used 7060 NH round baler. I have the bale size set at approx. five feet dia. bales, however the autowrap still only triggered at the maximum six foot dia bale size. I temporarily fixed this by putting a one inch spacer at the junction of the clutch release and the cable the leading to the bale size indicator bar on the baler. This basically worked to shorten the cable. This worked to finish the hay season, but my bale monitor (the small basic verision) alarm does not trigger until the bale is at six feet. I just turned it of and baled using the gages on the baler which worked fine. anybody know how i need to fix the issue. Seems like the cable might be to long?
Looking for a place to post loads hay hay I sold? CO to KY,TX,FL,TN,PA, and LA. Preferable free but not oppased to paying for the service.
Joe
Could somebody suggest what model of older New Holland balers would be best for baling wet haylage/silage bales? I'm looking to buy an older used one. Would a 688 do the job? What other numbers could you suggest? I have a 530 JD now and it doesn't like baling wet hay.
I'm in need of some help y'all. I'm in Az and round balers are almost non-existent out here, but I'm crazy and wanted to try something new. I bought a used New Holland 7060 at auction to get the ball rolling and test out the viability of round balers out here. After some struggling, I got it to work halfway decent and made about 500 bales or so before deciding to upgrade and take this round baling more serious. I stumbled across a '12 Fortima 1500 with only 2150 bales on it and priced very reasonably. I bought it out of Georgia and it showed up a few days ago. After struggling with the pickup and rear door hydros, I found solutions elsewhere on this forum that helped immensely and I'm hoping to drum up some more help on these new issues, mainly because there is nobody within 6 hrs of here that uses Krone round balers, so even the local dealer wont be of much help. The current issues are this: The baler showed up with very little net wrap left on the roll. After struggling with the rear door for a few bales, I was only able to make two decent bales before almost running out. On the second bale, the wrap wouldn't stop unrolling when it was supposed to so I just shut the pto off and opened the door. After that bale, I decided to just put the new roll of wrap in that I got from a JD dealer on the way back from Georgia. I believe that I got it fed in properly, but now the netwrap refuses start on the bale. I can see the roll spin about 1 revolution at the start of the cycle, but then it stops. I push the wrap cycle button on the monitor several times and it does the same thing. Out of frustration, I end up opening the door and digging out the now unwrapped straw and starting over. The wrap seems to be getting pushed back up into where its coming from. I don't know if that is the reason it's not feeding and rolling onto the bale, or if that is a result of it not feeding properly. Also, and I don't know if this is related or a completely separate problem, but at times there is a considerable amount of straw that gets fed up the front side of the baler to the point of boiling over onto the roof of the twine-box/netwrap storage area. It's almost like there is some sort of guard missing to prevent the crop from rolling up the front side of the chain slats. I have read and re-read the owners manual and searched youtube for any sort of guidance or solutions, but no luck. I'm hoping there are some Krone customers or salesman out there on this forum that can help this Az farmboy out. I apologize for being long winded, but I just wanted to explain my situation as thoroughly as possible to paint the best picture of my situation. Any and all suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks for your time y'all.
I had some questions about this MOCO I was looking at, I'm getting into haying this year with 80 acres right now hopefully expanding to about 150-200 by fall. I have a 100HP tractor so looking for something with some decent size, and being that I would be mowing a mixture of grasses, and on my fields I plant heavily in forage crops in the BMR sorgum-sudan and Millet varieties combined with humid summers wanted a diskbine moco to cut everything and also speed up drying. Semi limited budget, and fields are a bit spreed out so have to be able to haul either behind truck, or on flatbeds so center pull is most interesting, but I saw this Kuhn fc303gc for very affordable cost for what it is, needs some TLC work (mechanic of sorts used to working on heavy equipment) But Im wondering what people think of the cutting bar, it looks half decent to me, minus a possible leak on one cutter hub? and the left side hub deflector thingy has a crack in it. Are those big issues to fix that are thousands of dollars or does it look like a decently safe option to work with and then fix up all the way over the summer? Thanks!
I’ve searched and read everything I can find on this subject but would like to hear more real experiences with different types of conditioners. I have about 60 acres that I plan on baling hay off of, lot of it is Bermuda but crabgrass is taking hold pretty fast so what kind of mower conditioner would y’all experienced folk say would be the best overall to use on this type grass? I only have a 100hp tractor so I guess that will limit me to a smaller mower? Thanks in advance
Hi, I will be working on a MFWD 2350 that is having some steering problems, when driving sometimes it takes off to the right and you can't stop it. I replaced one in a 3020 with the updated one when it started doing it and that fixed it. I'm wondering if this is the same thing?
Thanks, Luke
We store about 200 small squares inside our pole shed barn.
We had several lost bales the past few years because coons pooped/pee'd/died 
on them. (Way in the back of the last row, didn't/couldn't see it there) I also know we have possums and groundhogs getting in the barn.
My husband and I are agonizing over putting a tarp over the tops this year for this reason but of course we worry about mold. We live in Wi and wouldn't put anything on top regardless until first freeze.
I did learn by reading several posts that there are "hay tarps" but haven't looked into them or their price yet.
Not sure how to keep the critters out of the barn during winter months. We set up live traps but don't catch them all.
Any suggestions on tarps and usage or how to make sure the critters don't use the tops as their potty would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Question for the knotter experts. On every rotation of the sprocket on the end of the knotter it clicks and the arm to the needles jumps slightly. If you apply pressure to the arm to remove the free play it runs smoothly.. Is this a matter of lenghtening the arm or is there an underlying problem?
TIA
I'm kind of in a no man's land for internet service on the farm. 
No cable, DSL, etc. (at one time was using dial up) type options. Been trying to work from home last couple of months or so and needed a faster service than a mobile phone hot spot.
I use VOIP phone service at my office and the computer uses VPN. So a couple of months ago, I bit the bullet and had satellite internet installed. Worked 'OK' for somethings, but not phone service or VPN, the lag time (2500-3000 ms,2.5 -3 seconds), is not conducive for phone conversations. 
I have one of my office phones at home, client's don't know (or care usually) where I'm at, as long as I'm available.
My nephew (who was in same situation living 1/2 mile away as crow files), needing faster internet at home found this:
https://www.gotw3.com/
I've been on it for a month or so, internet phones work fine, VPN hasn't been a problem, needless to say I'm happy with service. 
I'm actually on the 'Urban' plan. I was paying $79.99 a month for satellite, at best 25 Mbps and would slow down with data cap. This service is $80 a month, no data cap and I'm seeing speeds of over 50 Mbhs at times. Most of the time i'm in the 30-40 Mbps. 
Depending upon your location you could be on Verizon, ATT or T-Mobile (they just put in different sim card). I'm on T-Mobile presently. Once someone comes up with a 600 Mhz booster, I could see speeds of 70+ Mbps. The 600 Mhz is a newly used frequency I believe, so most boosters only go as low as 700 Mhz.
Thought I toss this out for those who may have been in the same boat as me. My nephew says he can use NetFlex, and some other streaming service. I don't used those things, so I don't have an opinion.
I've added an outside antenna that allows me to have Wi Fi, almost all over the farm (over 1/2 mile, if you have a clear line of site to the top of my hay shed ). I could add another antenna on top of the old silo, to hit a few block areas (maybe someday).
Oh ya, along with no data cap, no slow down, there is NO contract (unlike satellite that I'm paying to get out of 
). Easy to hook up, travels well (could even use with an RV), plug in and ready to go in less than a minute. Downside, modem you have to buy, up front, not much to it for the price. But I suppose someone has to make a buck or two.
Larry
A quick search on google didn't give me any help.
Does anyone on here use fungicide on 2nd and later cuttings of grass hay?
What would the timing be after cutting?
Thanks
FAH
A quick search on google didn't give me any help.
Does anyone on here use fungicide on 2nd and later cuttings of grass hay?
What would the timing be after cutting?
Thanks
FAH
My neighbor has had 2 of these brake, 1, 3-4-5 years ago. 1 this week. Bout 12K rolls on it.
Shouldn't something slip before the coupler snaps?
He had to drop the twine actuator + gearbox, coupler was stuck on gearbox shaft, 30 ton press would not move it, had to cut it off,
Good little job
Hi
Can anyone confirm it’s worth the effort to fit a grease nipple to the center of bearing caps on the tine bars? I’ve been meaning to ask for awhile. No question it’s worth getting grease in them but does this modification cause hay to get stuck on the bars? Nh55 nh56 nh57 etc.
Hi thanks for allowing me to join. We just bought a NH 1037 stacker wagon and have been trying to get it to work for us. I am still having a few problems and cant figure out how to fix them. First the first two bales slide well across the first table but the third doesn't and i have to get out and push it down in order for it to push the others and trigger the first table to flip up. Then when the second table fills up and it flips up it seems like it does have enough force to push the bales into the rack. Either the bales will come right back down with the second table or they will fall out at some point driving through the field. It works sometimes and when it works its great so i would really appreciate any feedback that could help get this up and running for us.
I've finally gotten fed up enough with checking the oil level in the hydraulic tank on my NH 1033 stacker wagon that I'm thinking of adding a sight glass to it. The owner's manual states that the oil level should be 10 inches with all the tables down... and the tank sits right under the 2nd table, so access is a bit of a pain. I found this sight glass for sale and was thinking of adding it to the tank the next time I change the oil (which it's due for). Any thoughts or opinions? Anyone ever done this, already? I'm not sure if I'm asking for trouble by purposely drilling holes in a good tank.
https://northernhydraulics.net/catalog/hydraulic-oil-sight-gauge/oil-level-sight-gauge-1854.html
Thanks, Josh
I am looking in to a new building for machinery storage. I don't know whether to go with the post frame or metal Quonset hut style. No slab just white limestone gravel floor. Looking for opinions and any would be appreciated.
Came across the air bag systems the other day. Picked up some parts today at Farm and Fleet and ordered an airbag as well (already got the portable tank painted up John Deere green! I have an old reliable 24t baler that's getting the conversion. We use bale baskets so I'm curious if anyone else out there with an airbag setup using bale baskets and how much air they go through? I'm wondering if I should just get a second portable tank that would be used to refill the main portable tank, or wire up a compressor. Each time you unhook a wagon there will be some additional air going into the bag from the portable tank to keep the pressure at regulated setting and then coming out of the regulator as pressure will increase slightly when you let the bales come back down the slide and get rolling again. Also wondering if adjustment is needed in pressure until the basket is loaded with bales? I'm hoping that it's a set it and forget it deal as so many others have commented about once they get rolling in the spring. Really hoping I don't have to get off the tractor multiple times to check how the bales are with this setup and bale baskets.
In sunny skies, 84 degrees 45% relative humidity and 26 acres of the prettiest green, dry hay I’ve made yet this year ready to bale, my trusty BR7060 (very trustworthy to break in best baling conditions 
) broke what looks like a shaft coupler in between the main gearbox output shaft and the main sprocket drive bearing. All sprocket drive lost, but 90 degree output shaft still turning. A soft slip clutch chatter is all I can hear.
Part not at my favorite local NH dealer (on speed dial). So ordered from Mountville, PA (NH parts depot). It’ll be here tomorrow about noon.
My question is, once I unbolt the main gearbox, will it simply slide away from the output shaft coupler? Or does the output shaft have to be removed from the gearbox? Are their retainer clips? How does it come apart?
I am hoping the coupler is broken and not either of the shaft ends. Assuming the coupler is made of softer steel than shafts?
Any help appreciated.
I have a Vermeer 605 Super M baler that I discovered with the help of Haytalk members needs a new lower drive roll. The rubber is peeling off. I have heard some people have had their worn out rolls refurbished. Since a new drive roll is $1300, refurbishing the old one is a tempting idea. I am hoping there are members who have had rolls refurbished and can recommend a good company.
I know there are a lot of companies who do this but I assume some are better than others. For example, I called one from a google search. They could refurbish the roll but had no idea what type of rubber to use our how thick. They asked me what I wanted. I have no idea. I assume there are companies that have researched this and can refurbish the roll to original spec.
If not, does anyone know the original specs? Thickness, type of rubber, etc
Thanks in advance
New to forum. And baler repair. Need help with language. Not sure what a clutch dog pawl is in parts manual lingo. Ours is fractured. Cant find diagram that looks like what we have. Trying to keep this ole gal running on a poor farmers budget. Help?
I want to buy a John Deere round baler. Netwrap, will run on 65hp or lower. Are there any out there that meets this criteria? Want something used to save on cost. What models are out there?
Helped a freind do some winter maintenace on thier 336 baler. We installed updated knotter wiper arms and knifes. Went to bale this week and we now have a problem with the string getting pulled in two. Everything looks to be working properly. Tucker fingers pull string in and a good knote is tied. What is happening is that the lower string is catching on the guide finger and when the wiper arm moves back to the left it pulls against the guide so hard it breaks the string. Is it supposed to catch on the guide? Why is it different now than it was with the original arms? Can we just remove the guide completely to eliminate this?
Parts book calls it a "Finger, Twine" Part number 14722
Any help is greatly apprecitaed. Thank you
Need thoughts on steel vs wood trusses for hay barn. Will be built with wood posts in ground. Have used wood trusses in other barns. Know will need to have carpenter's input but I value all the knowledge Hay Talk folks have.
Thanks,
Shelia
After a couple of windows earlier in June to make a good bit of hay, we've turned back to a wet period. Northeastern Ohio. Looking ahead at the forecast, showing a day of dry, and a day of a chance of thunderstorms. Last week had the same thing. Called for 60-80% and got nothing. I am still waiting to see what happens when we get closer, but would you cut with this forecast? I would be thinking of mowing on Sunday or Monday, and baling Thursday (tied up all day Wednesday, so that's not going to work)
Hello everyone,
First time poster, long time viewer. I have a general question regarding the hay hauling business..
Firstly, I have to ask if this is even a lucrative business plan? I am only interested in hauling and won't be farming hay myself. I absolutely don't mind and welcome the long hours of hard work, if it pays off at the end of course .Also, what general knowledge base would I need to be successful?
Are their load boards for hay haulers? Or do the hay haulers move their own chow?
Besides a truck and trailer, what sort of other equipment would be needed?
I am simply trying to draw a business plan and would love feedback from experienced folks here.
Thank you for any advice. It is much appreciated!!
Hi,
There is a post pounder up in an auction tomorrow I am looking at. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with it.
https://www.wheatheart.com/products/post-pounders/renegade-trailer-model/
https://sunrise.nextlot.com/public/sales/88510/lots/18741643
I have asked a number of mechanics and have not been able to get any clue on an issue I am having with my new to me 605 super m with 9000 bales. I am hoping someone here has run across this.
When I got the baler, I replaced the cross drive shaft gear, the start roller gear, the idler gear for them, and the upper belt drive roller gear as well as all the chains for the entire baler. I baled 40 bales with it.
When baling, I had a plug. After unplugging it, I had the tailgate open while running to confirm everything was working OK. I could hear a "clunk" ever 30 secs to a minutes. When I opened the left side door, I could see the chain driving the start roller was loose on the bottom and tight on top where the idle sprocket is. The sprocket was tight against the stops and the chain was loose on the bottom and riding up the cross shaft sprocket. Every 30 seconds to a minutes, the chain would jump the sprocket and skip forward a link causing the clunk sound. When I start to close the tailgate, the chain returns to normal operation. (tight on the bottom and the idle sprocket returns to normal position)
While experimenting with it, I realized the tailgate position seems to have no effect on the issue. If seems to be more dependent on if the hydraulics are opening or closing the tailgate. If I start to close the tailgate regardless of current position, the chains will run normal. If I start to open the tailgate regardless of current position, the chains will run slack on the bottom.
Looking at it while it run, it almost appears the gear on the starter roller trys to pull the chain faster than the cross drive shaft gear is driving when the hydraulics open the gate a little. They seem to be fighting each other but only after the hydraulics lift the tailgate.
It has been suggested I look for bad bearing on the belt rollers but I have not been able to find any.
I am including a picture of the chain when it is working correctly (hydraulics close the tailgate) and when it is not (hydraulics lifted the gate slightly)
Notice the idler sprocket position against the stops and the slack in the lower chain.
I am out of ideas and am hoping someone here can point me in a direction to fix this.
OK, Haven't seen this, and can't find it in the manual. On a 7060 with the auto oiler, can the amount of oil per opening be adjusted? Mine seems like its running a little dry.
Thanks in advance.
Tom
A new pre herbicide in bermudagrass.
https://www3.epa.gov/pesticides/chem_search/ppls/000432-01610-20200615.pdf
Ok, probably should have put this in the shop forum but I rarely go there and I am going to use it on machinery 
. I am running a cord with a drop quad box over my shop table. Tired of tripping over cords. About 40' from a dedicated 20 amp box at the panel. want 10-3 to minimize voltage loss. Might have three tools plugged in but only would have one running at a time. Now, if I run a 10-3 cord with the t plug, it is 30 amp. If I get a dedicated 10-3 extension cord with a single outlet, I can get 20 amp, however, if I get a 10-3 extension cord with a triple outlet, it is 15 amp. Can some one explain this to me since the conductors are the same, the distance is the same. Thanks.
We have a late 1980s or early 1990s New Holland 848 baler and it has the first generation Bale Command control unit. The Bale Command unit is not working correctly, won't tie in automatic among other malfunctions. Does anyone know of a company or individual that inspects and repairs these control boxes? Thanks in advance
Hello - Father's Day crashed yesterday when the twine arms of my NH 678 got out of sync. Turns out I have no manual to refer to and could not work it out today. Cannot reset them without the diagrams to figure out what went wrong. Any help would be appreciated.
I posted a video a few weeks ago of my auction 499 making some noise on the right side and it having a wobbly crank hub. I found the problem, loose bolt on the crank hub. Is anyone familiar with putting that back on? Wondering if I need to go through the entire procedure in the manual.
Here's the steps from this manual although these steps are from the standpoint of having taken apart the entire gearbox which I didn't do. From what I can tell the whole point of this procedure is to torque the large nut and hold it in place. It doesn't look like the crank hub actually needs to be aligned in any particular way.'
I separated that hub into two parts, here's that tab aligned on the nut.
oh and that nut has a broken side and the part appears to be no longer available anywhere. New holland part # 644449, 1 5/8-18 nut.
Here's part 2 of installation, looks like its all about getting the clip on a flat side of the nut.
Here's a video I made showing what I found when I took it apart. I did find another oddity, that's around the 1:45 mark. There's some washers in a different order than what the manual shows.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1B6GCpmA1pk
I'm considering the purchase of a NH 1020 DuraVee rake and would like folks' input if you have any. I've never bought a new piece of hay equipment in my life, but with the price folks are paying for used equipment lately I'm considering it. It'll replace an old Vermeer WR-V10 that's been very good to me. Any thoughts on the NH rake good or bad? Also considering getting the two kicker wheels in the middle of the rake, have never had them before.
Thank You.
Hello to all. What is rate to pay land owner for harvesting hay from his fields? A neighbor sold his dairy herd and I an interested in harvesting the hay. What should I offer him? The fields had only manure spread on them and are ideal to me. Flat and close by. Should I offer $ per acre or per bale? I make small squares 35/ 40 lbs and 4x4 soft core bales. Any thoughts? 
Hey All,
I've got 60 acres of hay in for the first year on a small farm I bought. We planted oats as a cover crop and those will be coming off soon. My family has a JD3155 which I can use when needed over the next 1 - 2 years, but I need something on the farm all the time. I can bring it over to my farm but generally, 've been looking for a tractor with a loader but am now wondering if I should go in a different direction.
I've decided I'm going to lean on a custom guy to do the baling, as I don't have any of the equipment right now and buying it all at once for 60 acres is a little much. So I am thinking I mostly want to be able to load the bales up into the barns and off for guys who come to pick up. I'm also likely building a fence, clearing some land, theres a tiny old house coming down and a shack workshop.
My thought is , maybe a bobcat is the way to go for me.
-The Bobcat could do the loader work for the hay.
- It can run an auger for the fence posts.
- It might be a little better for general farm cleanup.
Also, I am slightly connected to a guy who owns the local bobcat dealer. Not enough to get a steal, but he will treat me well and give me the right recomendation. I've heard from reading that buying these machines used can be risky.
Just wondering what guys think of a bobcat as a first farm tool given I'm doing mostly loading bales, and farm cleanup for the next year?
Also, any ideas on size for lifting large round bales?
Do you guys prefer the track?
Is it a good long term piece of equpment to have around on a baling operation and for feeding livestock down the road.
I was looking at this t590 (prices are in CAD)
Thanks!
I am planning building a five wire electric fence. I am not sure how far to space my all my line post. I have searched the internet and it seems that the spacing is all over the place, from 20' to 90'. I am thinking of spacing my post at 30'.
What's your thoughts.
I need to move approx 30 large squares of hay from the shipper into my barn. This barn has terrible access with a tight turn to enter, and a small area (20'x20') to store the hay. My question is if a rented fork truck would be able to do the job for me. Related to this question, is if a bale spear attachment can be used on a fork truck? Thanks
I have a 265 new Holland bar rake that I have used a couple years. The tires were weather cracked, so I replace them with 3 rib tires. it doesn't seem like I get as good of traction as I did. Would I have been better to get a tread tire. Does anyone add weight. Thanks
Of you, that use theses type of products, I was wondering how long you can trust the acid to stop sweating? When is It safe to say to your self that if after 5 days or 10 days in the bale without heating your safe for two months or 10 months. Please fill in what your numbers would be.
Here is what I have. Five days ago I baled a grass hay with out the field being being ready because the call for rain, I made 230 bales that range from 30% to 14,5% moisture and I have put them in the barn where I can check them, I put 1.3 gal o f crop saver on all bales and now 6 days later I find no change in moisture and also no gain in temperature either. they all read a 60 degrees. they were baled at 70 degrees. So they lost 10 degrees, My question is with the weather i have drying will be hard find so how long can I expect the crop saver to work before I loose its protection? I like to get your opinion.and some of your wisdom.
I hope I am posting this in the correct spot
I got the first chance to use my new BHT-2 set up. Sensors were mounted on the side of the bale chamber as my upper and lower tension rails are boxed. Agratronics said that location would be OK. I kept getting a lot of Lo indications even though my hand tester was showing 10% to 12% which is where I like to bale.. Customers like the dryer hay as no chance of mold over long storage. When it did indicate moisture it correlated within about 2% except for a few high moisture bales where it said 14% and I got a few hot spots of 20% (sorted out the high moisture for quick use).
I have not called Agratronics as it is the weekend,but will Monday. I have a feeling I need to move the sensors to the boxed tension rail's so I get one cut side. Means cutting holes in the top beam plate to gain access to the studs.Not going to be easy but can be done.
Thoughts or tips on what I may be doing wrong? Location of sensors?
Thanks Folks
Keith
My Deere 535 round baler came without a compressor rack. Looking through the forums it looks like some guys use them and some guys don't. Wondering if it would be worthwhile for me to try and get one. I would need the bar and 6 tines. All new would probably be $700 with shipping. I haven't priced out a used one from a dismantler. On a related note, anyone have any dismantlers I should check with? I've only found one so far that has any 535's.
I'm baling mostly orchard grass and some alfalfa.
I've been on a google search and implement salesmen journey for the past two months. Looking for a used/new 4x4 baler maxing at 35 hp on the pto. Our older Kubota tractor is pto rated at 42hp/pto and I want to stay below that. We cut 40 acres of fescue/orchard/ladino mix averaging 9 - 12, 4x4 bales/acre. It's getting harder and harder to get someone to cut hay so we're going to invest and cut our own. Fields are mostly flat with grades around 5-ish degrees of grade on what I would cut.
To date it's been frustrating trying to find a good 4x4 net wrap baler. John Deere 335 looks to be good fit but it's twine are too hard to find a good one. Any advise on other 4x4 baler would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim
West Plains, MO
Is this a good baler model. Does it make 14" bales? I have found one for sale a few hours away. Thanks
What is the % stem moister that you can bale with this stuff ? How many ponds per ton do I put in?
Hi Mike, etal,
Is there an easy , simple way to sharpen the twine knives on my NH 570?
I'm getting a somewhat ragged cut, and occasionally no cut, then a mess on the bill hook.
Very awkward to get to the knives, just wondered if I was missing something!
TMIA, Dave
Sorry, should be in Machinery forum
Vol, if you can move it, please do, Thanks, Dave
Wobble box went out on our NH 492. I was always told the difference between the 492 and 489 was that the 492 wobble box was better/different. We have a 489 parts machine that we are being told we can swap out the wobble box.
Is this correct?
Thanks
I have a fairly large section in a new orchard grass stand that appears to be infected with what I believe is cheat grass. This is my first time planting orchard. Do I have any options to eliminate the cheat?
we mow hay with a NH 477 haybine and we want to upgrade. we up grader 2 yrs ago with a rotory rake and 2 star tedder to speed up hay making process. we need to upgrade to a discbine or disc mower as well. was wondering if we would go with a disc mower if we would lose a day or so not crimping the hay. the disc mower are cheaper then discbine but dont want lose any more time since in PA we dont get more then 4 days with out rain, well at least the last few years its been that way.
I have a 554XL baler that the bale is starting to bounce inside and pulling the belts apart at the splices. I was told to recharge the belt tensioner hydraulics. I am not able to find any information on how to do this. Any help would be deeply appreciated.
Finished baling my first cutting grass hay yesterday. Due to weather, management on my part, strange mix of various grasses and some clover with some sections drying really fast and some really slow........hay got really dry. Hand held moisture reading was often showing 10%.
I know what the downside is of baling too wet.....moisture exceeding 20%......but what about too dry? Not worried about leaf loss with grass hay. Had good color.....smells good, but it was baled really dry.
Encounter a extremely difficult task of mowing crown vetch with a tow behind seven foot sickle bar new idea mower . I can’t negotiate the location of the last swath , the swath board is useless , the vetch is so entangled it will not lay down,. I end up turn ing into a previous mowed section and that cause a plug up .getting off the tractor to un plug cutter bar is equal in frustration the vetch catches my work boots and tripped me several times .
Broke my original wooden swath board which had a pole bar that could be adjusted, but its useless till I figure out what the part number is to attempt to reordered ,not sure it will help anyway.
I tried and after market swath metal board . Broke it off backs up dug in a bent it ,I could not see it ,was hidden under the tangled vetch.
It also seems to stay wet and tuff at the the cutter base , even at 2:00 in afternoon ,if you back up the stock will wrap around the cutter bar ,can’t solution clear plugs .
Well that’s a few of the issues .
I thought with a rebuilt cutter the task would be done by now. But slowing down helps but still plugs. I was thinking of putting an lift on the end of cutter to mow in high mow position to just the flowers off , ? About 7 inch off field deck ?
Any tips ideas. My son asked me to help him mow it before it goes to seed ,still in flower state. He doesn’t want it to go to seed .
thanks you for any suggestions ,
I baled some pretty nice orchard grass hay early spring. Then had several weeks of rain, beginning the day after baling. The hay is on the wagon and a trailer under cover, in a shed with two open sides. The hay absorbed moisture from the air. At the time of rain, I could grab a hand full of hay and feel the dampness. Now, the hay has mold on the outside of the bales. 
Would enclosing the sides have prevented the mold or covering the hay with tarps have prevented the damage?
My baler will not make a good dense bale. Last year it worked fine. The green gauge on the front is not moving at all. It looks like there is some oil showing in it so Is it supposed to show oil in it? Does anyone know what the pressure (PSI) should be? The gauge only has a +/- no pressure reading. I am trying to determine if the gauge is working, and also trying to make a nice dense bale. I tried to test by unhooking my hoses from the tractor but the gauge still shows nothing. I have also screwed the valve all the way in still nothing. Any help is appreciated.
My very first post, be gentle if I'm doing anything wrong and point me in the right direction!
Does anyone, anyone at all, know where to find parts for an OLD Fahr hay tedder? Model is KH 4 S. No longer made and apparently parts are no longer made either. Will parts from a newer model fit? We need a wheel hub, but will by the whole wheel if necessary. My Hub (hubby) is frantic to get this tedder running as hay season is upon us in NW PA!! Thank you to whomever can help.
Looking to trade or sell a Khun F-1036 10 bale flat accumulator any idea what is worth it is in good condition just saw a new style Khun and thinking about trading couldn't any like mine on the internet to get a price I am thinking $8500 to $9500 range.
Looking at a piece of equipment at Belmont Farms in Reisterstown, MD. Used machinery sales. Anyone had any dealings with them?
When on HT sometimes when I open a post this is what the screen looks like (attached). Sometimes I can hit the back arrow (upper left of screen), then go back forward and the screen will be normal.
I can't control the browser (Explorer 11) nor the operation system (Window 10), company requirements.
It (the black box appearance), is getting worse. It also doesn't allow me to have all the functions across the top of the reply area.
Anyone got any brain storms throw them my way, PLEASE.
Larry
PS this post came back with black box and no options (functions across the top).
PSS after I edited this post with PS remark, I'm back normal. So I can add the face you just seen, plus this.
Hi Everybody,
I'm new to the forum but have been getting advice here as an onlooker for quite some time.
We bought a New Holland 273 baler with a 54A kicker attached last year, but didn't have hay wagons. We took the kicker off and baled all last year with it (great older baler, much better than the Case 200 we had been baling with before). Well anyway, this year we got kicker wagons, put the kicker back on, and have been putting up hay with much less labor. We have, as some people with New Holland kickers have, been having issues with burning twine. So far we have already adjusted the bale length to ~32" so they are definitely out of the bale chamber, tightened the bales, and switched to a heavy (9000ft) sisal twine, but we are still burning twine on about 1/50 of all our bales.
We have very good belts on the kicker so I don't think it is slipping on the bale. One thing I know about the kicker is that it has some welds on it and the top belt and lower belt are not aligned properly. What I'm wondering is if it's possible that the lower belt assembly is spaced too far back (after all the welding that was done to it) and thus it is engaging the top belt but not the lower belt at some point. I would say the center of the top belt pulley is about 4" in front of the center of the lower belt pulley. Is this normal? Should I plan on spacing that top belt assembly back? If anyone has a 54A or a similar NH kicker and could post a picture of the location of their belt pulleys relative to each other that would be very helpful!
Thank you,
Asa
I have a Krone mower with a cracked main gearbox. It is cracked on the bottom rear. We haven't hit anything, so there's no apparent reason for the damage.
We welded up the crack as best as possible (part of the crack goes into an area near the cutter bar that isn't accessible while the cutter is all together), so it still leaked a small amount.
When I picked up the cutter with a forklift the case developed another crack above the first one. I think the gearbox case is very brittle and this may be what caused the original problem.
Has anyone else ever run into this problem?
I see most folks bought the AM283S instead of the longer / heavier 323.
Was there a reason for that.
Thanks
Sam
3rd year on this alfalfa field and I'm not too happy with the performance. It is in need of lime, been having trouble getting a lime guy out. Winter was too mushy this year, then he was supposed to come out after first cutting and that didn't work out. So now we're going to try after 2nd cutting. Sent a soil sample to Michigan State and they want 2 tons per acre put down.
I just did first cutting on both this alfalfa field and an orchard grass field next to it. Some comparison, I got 4 round bales per acre off the orchard grass, using the same equipment the alfalfa field came out to about 1.5 per acre. I actually didn't want to cut the alfalfa quite yet but the weeds were coming up in it so I figured the best way to kill the weeds was to mow it. The back half of the field actually does okay but the front half is pretty thin. The raked windrows look almost no existent on that half.
While I still plan on putting down lime I just don't see it in improving that much so I'm thinking of putting orchard grass and brohm into the existing alfalfa. I mainly bale for myself and a alfalfa/grass mix is fine for that. I was thinking of seeding the grass after 2nd cutting to time it for the frost schedule and not bother with a 3rd cutting.
I was thinking seeding at a rate of 75% into the side with terrible performance and 25% in the stronger side.
Here's some pictures I took today, curious to see what you guys think of this plan. It was cut about 12 days ago. I thought it actually looked better than I expected it to.
This is the thin side of the field.
Here's the stronger side of the field.
And here's a strip that actually didn't get cut. I got a flat tire at the end of the day and decided to just leave it.
I have to replace the complete hitch on my baler, and am not sure what sort of jacks I should be using to lift and support the baler. How is this usually done? I think I will have to take the roller on the wind guard off and try to jack it under the tube that is above the roller and goes across the baler. What sort of jacks should I use, and is that the right place for them to be used?
1. This has probably been asked before, but what is your cut off for moisture in a 4x5 round bale before it can go in a barn?
Im talking typical stem moisture observed during typical afternoon baling, no real dew or ground moisture. Of course this would be untreated hay (no hay preservative)
I tend to leave anything outside that reads 17% or higher.
2. I made about 90 bales today. Most read in the 11%-15% range. (Anything reading 17% or more, I dumped perpendicular to the good bales). Sometimes the readout said “low” and for a few seconds here and there, it would read 16-17%. If during the course of making a 4x5 bale, you have a reading of 16-17% for a few seconds, would you store that bale inside, or reject it?
I use an old OMC 595 to make soft core round bales for my horses. The bales are great for feeding and I want to stick with them, but they can be a pain to move because of the soft core. For the few of you that have experience with handling soft core bales, what have you found to be the best and most stable spear set up for these bale , or most you use skids under the bale?
I have a neighbor friend who bought 297 acres of reclaimed strip pit property 3 miles away. He fenced most of it, built a barn and wanted to raise stockers. He decided to start by graze for a guy by pound of gain.
They paid him 65 cents per pound of gain. Unreal in my mind. Reclaimed land does not do well when it gets hot weather. He put 130 lb. per head in 60 days. Made 5K. Unreal money in my mind.
Does anyone else know of getting 65 cents? Is that normal now? The best I had even heard was 50 cents on winter wheat.
Hello.
I'm new to baling and i bought my own baler (NH 366 - for Europe). Today was the first day of baling. For first time baler gone good. But i have one other problems with twine is everywhere around on the field, on the bale,... It is always about 30 mm long.
The problems is viewed on the photos:
If i would say what is wrong, i would say i should replace the knife for twine. I know, there are some professionals, they know exacly....
Thank you for answers.
Deere 535, has a wrap system but I'm currently using string tie. Just finished first cutting. Sometimes the string tie wouldn't reset all the way. The twine arms are returning so if gives the appearance that it reset. Day 1, 27 of 28 bales did fine. On the last bale it didn't tie, I pulled the string multiple times and then got out and starting moving the arm around that the rope is attached to before it finally started working. Day 2 it worked around 75% of the time.
Here's what I noticed. I actually knew when it wasn't going to work because when it happens the flashing yellow light never gets triggered. The first time I would pull the string, the arms would actually move forward towards the tractor about a 1/2". So this tells me they didn't actually complete their cycle with the previous bale, not sure why though.
Here's a couple pictures, not sure if anything will stand out to anyone. This is what everything looks like with a bale in the baler at the point where it should have auto-tied but didn't.
