Ain't that the way it goes? Ran a rock in the head and screwed up flighting to the point its rubbing and they have to come out. Unsure as to how, looks like the bottom one comes out the right hand end of head, the top must drop out that hole as well. I don't have the manual TM2033, and operators manual has nothing. Anybody? Beuler? Beuler...?
Had this baler working for 14 years, just needed new belts so put the new ones on this spring and now nothing but problems. First these things sound like a jet taking off when engaged. What's with that? Second every time the bale size reaches just before 3' it auto ties? Never done this before either. Nothing has been changed but the belts and they are put on correctly. Any ideas? thanks
Last August mike10 had posted that NH had come out with a different twine holder for some of the BC balers to prevent the twine holder flat spring from slipping off the twine holder. I had this issue with my new BC5060, so I checked with my dealer and they ordered me the new part. I finally installed them at the beginning of this season, and the problem is solved. I took a couple pictures of the old and new designs - you can see how much longer the spring land area is, and the shiny spot of the old one where the spring was barely catching the land. Thanks again mike10 for your great advice!
I planted Alfalfa last fall and ran out of seed before I could finish planting. I took the first cutting 2 weeks ago and was convinced the seeding was a not going to turn out. Fertilized and got rain the alfalfa is really better then I expected. the only problem is where I planted later is almost bare, I am going to try to reseed seed the bare spots with a broadcast seeder this fall and see if it works. Has anybody else tried this and how did it work.
I go back and forth on whether this is a good thing to do. This year we finished first cutting early and I topdressed the first area with 65-0-0-24S. Just made that hay this week, 332 bales of beautiful hay but at what cost? the fertilizer was 860$ for the 18 odd ac, fair number of tractor hours to cut, ted once, rake, flip, and bale. sells for 6/bale so gross revenue of about 2K.
Now if i did not topdress, I would still need to trim it with the bushhog for weed control for horse nettle and milkweed control if nothing else so there is going to be some tractor hours no matter what the choice. So here I am again debating on topdressing for third cutting. I read Trotwoods post the other day and automatically fell in line and scheduled the fertilizer for tomorrow morning.
But I continue to ponder Is it worth it? I am an agronomist by training but spent most of my studies on soils, not crops. I can tell you all sorts of things about how soils handle the nutrients, not so much with the plants. My assumption (meaning, I believe, but do not know) is that it is better to keep plants healthily growing to maintain vigor, suppress weed pressure etc so that even with marginal yields it makes overall economic sense to topdress. two years ago, I topdressed second cutting and never harvested a bale afterwards. however, it started to rain in oct and by Nov, I had a bumper crop, just no weather to harvest.
Just curious, what do others think, do you topdress with no better than a 50-50 chance of making any profit on the second and/or third cutting?
Hello All.
I'm a longtime lurker and thought it was time to jump in with a question or two if you all wouldn't mind....
I own a small farm (300acre+/-) in the Northern Ozarks and about 80-85 acres of it is fescue/orchard grass. For the last few years I've had other people cut it on shares. This never seems to work out.... They either never show and I end up bushhogging it, they show up at the end of August for a first cutting when the fields look horrible, or they get part of it done, disappear, and never come back. It's pretty aggravating. What I have got off the fields I have sold easily and for a good price. I decided I'm fed up with trying to find someone dependable and I'm just going to get my own equipment and do it myself. There are some good deals showing up with it almost being mid-summer and some of our area dealers are wanting to move inventory off their lots. I've ran the numbers and they work, especially when I throw in my neighbors who are in the same boat I am. I've already had three tell me that they would be happy if I did their fields.
Here's my pickle. I grew up doing this, but it was in flat Illinois fields with a LOT less equipment options out there. I'm finding myself a bit overwhelmed and thought I would ask for some opinions from people who were not trying to sell me something.
I want to do small squares and I've been looking really hard at a MF 1838 inline baler. There's a lot of things I like about it. I'm pretty much settled on that one.
I'm liking what I see with a Class 450t rake too. I watched one the other day and liked it a lot. It looks solid. I've never used a rotary rake but I like what I see. One guy was saying you can use it as a halfway decent tedder too. ok.
I am still a bit lost on the cutter though. I know I want a disc mower, but I don't know about conditioning/not conditioning fescue or trailed/side mount. I was looking at a trailed MF 1359 because it was a holdover from last year and the price was great, but I'm not so sure if that is what I need. The side mount Class Disco 3150 looks awful nice too, as do the Kuhns. My fields are made up of small farms from the mid 1800's- 15 acres pieces being the biggest. In the Ozarks, what is "flat" is cleared and what isn't has White Oaks and Hickory on it, so the fields follow the topography or they parallel the creeks down in the hollows and they can be a bit irregular. I'm thinking a 9-10' bar with my fields being as they are and my tractor have 70hp at the PTO. I thought that 1359 would do okay following the roll of the land but am open to suggestions. If the side mount would get the job done, that would save some $$$ for sure.
I'd really like to know what people with more experience than I have think of the different pieces I'm looking at. I'm very open to suggestions too. Sorry for being long winded on my post. Thanks so much for reading.
anyone know where a guy could find a quarter turn attachment for mf 2290 large square 4x4 bales or blue print on how to build one thanks
We are looking at adding a skid steer to load 5.5x4 round bales. I typically load two high on a 24' gooseneck trailer. We are getting ready to build a hay barn that will allow me to stack 3 high in the barn. In an ideal world I would like to have a machine that I could either load with in the field or stack at the barn. I am used a skid steer a couple of times in the past, and would like to stay with hand controls, probably stay with a wheel machine, cab, heat, and air. I know this is going to open a can of worms but I need to know which machines I need to be looking for.
Thanks
Looking at this RB460 silage baler to buy. I've got the BR 7070 and am satisfied with it, after the bugs were worked out.
Any body running one of these have an opinion about them?
Hello,
Since we got our Vermeer 605M Silage baler, we have only used netwrap. We would like to use the twine tie some. When you start the twine tie cycle, the arm will extend all the way out and hits the metal twine guide that you can adjust. The arm does stop but it acts like it want to keep going and then faults out and then returns to the home position. It pops us a E53 code. I have dealt with teaching the twine tie system where to stop but I can't remember it all. It acts like it has forgotten where to stop when it goes over to do the start wraps. Accu-bale plus monitor.
Thanks for any help! I live this site!
I am in Florida. Back in March I had prepared a small field to plant Jiggs in. I nuked the field and till it about every three days till I was able to get the green Jiggs sprigs. I got it sprigged, straight cut disked it, and rolled it. No rain for over two months. All I had was powder. After a month or two of drought I thought it was done except for a few small weeds showing up. We have now had over a month and a half of heavy rains. The Jiggs has actually come in for the most part. Enough to let it spread and fill in the remainder. My problem is I also have a crop of what appears to be wild rye. There is some sort of small grass coming in the the bare spots also. Not tall. Just not Jiggs or Bahia. Not sure what it is.
I need to try and get rid of the crap in there and save the Jiggs. I am looking for recommendations. Which might be the best, Weedmaster, Remedy, GrazonNext? Or maybe something else. Thanks
I have a new to me NH 1411 Discbine that is cutting too low. This is with the hydraulic cutting height cylinder pinned in the highest position. It should be cutting at around 3" and it is just about scalping. I know I can adjust the cutter bar floatation, I just not sure if that will solve my problem and while the manual shows how to do it, it doesn't really say how to tell when it adjusted properly. I am pulling it with a MF 4554.
Doug
The heifer that I am have been feeding is a twin to a bull calf. From what I understand a heifer twin is 90% likely to be infertile. I guess she might be a good one to raise to butcher next year. To bad she is nice little heifer.
Anybody know what herbicide will kill eastern black nightshade in pasture. Basagran is labeled for hairy nightshade but the label says it wont kill eastern black nightshade. I used a mix of 2,4d and crossbow. Not sure if that will do it or not...
So I am looking for a new tractor, used or new. I posted in my other thread that I was looking at buying some hay equipment. My local dealer sells Kubota. I am not 100% sold on them yet. I did see a 2014 6105D with 400 hrs on it for sale for $10,000 less ($52,000) than the new Kubota. So my question is which one is better and which one is the better deal? which one would you get and why?
Let me start out by saying that I'm new to hay, but am learning a lot by reading on this site. I'm planning on picking up a John Deere 348 baler sometime over the fall/winter. I'll probably buy new from my local dealer. I was wanting to know what options would be worth getting, from those with experience? I understand the multi-luber gets recommended a lot, and I was planning on getting it. Here are some of the others available that I was wondering about:
Hydraulic bale tensioner (is it really much better than a hand crank?)
Hydraulic pickup (my ground is uneven, so I'm think yes on this one.)
Hydraulic tongue positioning (sounds self-explanatory, but not sure if it's really better than pulling a pin and positioning it by hand)
Side hay resistor (didn't know if this would be necessary/beneficial for my use.)
If it makes a difference, I'm planning on baling orchardgrass hay, and my tractor is about 60 PTO horsepower and has 2 remotes. Also planning on pulling a Kuhns accumulator, so I assume I'll need to get a wagon hitch on the back of the baler.
Also, I know the New Holland and Massey balers get a lot of recommendations, but my closest dealer is Deere, and I've had good luck dealing with them in the past. Hence, my decision to go with the 348.
I had a thread a week ago on switching rakes, just got it done.
Cost me some money, but what the heck.
From you double rotary guys, what does a newbie need to know? Anything specific on Kuhns or the center delivery?
I assume you let the rotors down and put it in float mode and let the bogies ride up and down? (After the height/width is set I assume as well) Did Kuhn fix the float issue on rotaries like they did on the Gen II speed rakes, so you don't have to worry about forgetting float mode on the tractor?
What RPM and speed does one nestle into on a alfalfa or alfalfa/orchard crop?
So, we've had a very wet spring and I've been anxious to get my first cut done. Yesterday morning, the weather was 10% to 20% chance of a shower. So, I cut my back field. As soon as I was done, we got a light sprinkle of rain. No big deal...I teddered it and called it a day. Then last night it poured. Heavy. For over an hour or two...
Today I woke up and checked the weather. Tuesday now shows 80% of rain, Thursday and Friday 50%, Saturday 40% and Sunday 60%. Basically, I'm screwed. My question is what to do?
Should I just run my flail mower over it and chop it up as fine as I can? I don't see any chance in the forecast to possibly bale it and even if I did I don't have a customer for mulch hay.
Suggestions?
Hopefully someone can shed some light on here. I have a 605xl which Ive had for 3 years now and have never had this problem before. Bale core is just the right density for me but after core is rolled the bale starts to get lumpy and loose. Causing the tractor and baler to gallop to the point where something is gonna break. In desperate need of advice before next cutting otherwise Im going to hire someone else to bale our hay. HELP!
Im wanting to buy a new baler, I bale alot of rough ground, can't help it much in East Texas with hogs and gophers,Im thinking the big tires will help smooth out some of the abuse the baler will get. What do yall think?
Help!!!!
We just traded balers. From a JD 459 standard (twine only) to a brand new $$ JD 459 MegaWide baler (net and twine). We always bale 60" and I measured so we are good on bale size. We weighed some last year on standard baler and they weighed 875 lbs. We just baled the same field and with new baler they weigh 750 lbs. each at truck stop scales. I was suspecting something when I picked them up with my flex grip and they were squeezing like a warm marsh mellow. They appear soft compared to earlier baler. Field may have been more dry but they still seem soft. Also, on field that I always get 25 bales it yielded 35 bales and it wasn't that much better.
I called John Deere service and there is not a density setting on the 459 baler. It is all factory set. The manual in troubleshooting says something about tension cylinder: Leaking, not getting flow, plugged hydraulics etc. They agreed to come out next time we bale and and check things. They said we need to crowd the corners. We don't have tucker wheels so not sure how far out on the corners to bale.
Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks!!
I know this question has been bet to death but I can not get my left knotter to tie this is what I have done so far it has been done to both of them new bill hooks, new tie disc, new knifes, new cleaners, new tween holders, new bill hook pinion gear, new worm gear pinion the right knotter works flawless the left one makes no knot a t all when it does its lose and almost comes untied when I pull on it when it misses the number one twine has a half loop but no knot I also filed the tit on the left bill hook a little it seemed to be a little to wide
any ideas would be great
I have a problem with my alfalfa lodging. This is my fourth year growing alfalfa and nearly every cutting of alfalfa I have ever cut has been lodged. I feel that I might be losing quite a bit of tonnage and quality when it is lodged because the lower leaves all turn yellow from a lack of sun and fall off. Not to mention a pain to cut and many times end up with a shaggy stubble depending on how flat it went. I dont think it is a variety problem as I now have three different brands of alfalfa and each one ends up lodging.
Is there anything I can do to keep it from lodging? Also curious to hear if anyone else has this issue.
Hayden
So picked up the 120 acres directly behind us and have found out that it has roundup resistant mares tail, also seem to have some curly dock that isn’t dying well either.
I’ve done a little bit of research so far and have come up with several products that may control it. Long term plan is to use Liberty Link soybeans next time its rotated into soybeans. Has anybody found somewhat will work instead of just throwing money at it and oping that it works?
We’ve even considered getting the ole rope wick out and using Liberty in it instead of roundup.
Not taking any chances of having another dented roll. Filled it right from the start with 8 pound density pourable foam. Costs about $100 for the 16 pound kit. Just a little insurance for the $1400 roll.
I have a NH 5070 Hayliner that after baling 200-300 bales hay will start to build up on bottom of bale chamber at the first wedge on outside of bale chamber. You can tell that when baling with wagon behind baler the bales will start to get heavy.You will also notice hay will start to push out the top of bale chute. We stop baling have to clean the bale chamber out and you will notice a buildup of rye straw about 2 inches tall and entire width of outside rail.You can take your hands to clean out and it will be hot from friction and then we are good to go for another 200-400 bales. I make a 32 Inch bale that weighs around 45 to 50 lbs. The baler does not have skiis and has only baled less than 15,000 bales and has done this from day one. I did not buy new, the previous owner baled 1000 bales and quit haying. Any ideas. Thanks
My vermeer 605J decided it didn't want to bale hay this year. I worked on it, gave up and sent it to the dealer who has had it for two weeks and told me today that nobody there can figure out what's wrong. They've talked to the factory and nobody there knows either. Said that my baler is just flat wore out, and i would be better off to trade up to something a little better as opposed to considering to sink money in mine. I'm looking to spend 10-12000 grand at most and would like net wrap. I have no preference on bale dimensions. I have found a couple K series vermeers with net in the $5000 range. Are the K's as good as the J's? I've also found a couple Challenger RB56's with low bales in the $12000 range. The challenger looks like a nice baler though I know nothing about them. I have local dealers for just about any brand baler though none specialize in hay so service will be poor/nonexistant from everyone. Any advice?
Thanks
The bearing & housing that attaches to the connecting rod. New Holland doesn't sell just the bearing they want you to buy the assembly with the housing. Is that bearing pressed really tight in there or what? Has anybody matched up a bearing and installed it in the housing themselves? If so how did it go? It's an expensive part with the housing and all, over $250 for the inch version and a hundred more for the metric version. Mine it seems has the metric bolts but why can't I just put the inch version of the housing on? Are the holes the same distance apart for both of them. It seems NH only lists one connecting rod. The picture of the inch housing with ruler on Messicks seems to be about an inch wider than mine but I can't see the bolt holes. Unfortunately my local NH dealer doesn't have any of them in stock so I can't compare mine with the inch version there.
Alright guys ive got a 2012 massey 1375 discbine, bought used from a new holland dealer. Dealer said all is good new knives, turtles/pods and fresh oil and looks good aswell. my one question is on the cutterbar there is a drain plug on far left underneath, two vent plugs on the right and some other plugs all along the cutterbar, when you pull those plugs there should be oil in there right? it looks like preveious owner blew a bearing under one of the turles and finished the round that way as there is a buildup of sand under all those plugs.
thanks
Hi
The machine is around 2001. The dash battery light is on all the time. As I run the machine the voltage keeps dropping. I do my work than charge battery's up with charger. Because if I don't it will go dead.
Hear is what I did so far. Took alternator to a rebuild shop they put on tester and checks out good. I charge battery's up and take to shop for testing. they check good. I put volt meter on battery when engine running and it checks 14 volts. But battery light on dash still on and voltage still drops as machine runs. Something in harness must be bad. I know this is not the first time this has happened. So can anyone help?
Is there a relay or something that is the culprit?
Thank you for your much needed help. Scott
I'm hoping someone has a 1046 bale wagon they could give me a couple of measurements off of. I may have to haul one and was wondering what the wheel base was and the track width?
I am having problems with my315 New Holland square baler. The bale forms in the bale chamber and the needles and twister go thru their respective tasks however the wire does not cut and therefore a bale is never produced. I have reset the timing as per the manual however this has had no effect. The wire spools around the twister mechanism but does not cut to form a bale. My local new Holland dealer is three weeks out on field service and I need to get this machine back to work. Finding anyone in my area that is knowledgeable about wire balers is next to impossible. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I was on the Kuhns Mfg website recently to research how many sizes of accumulators they have available and I noticed they added a new size recently...
It's kinda cute!
Now maybe some of you guys out there who have been thinking of an accumulator but couldn't justify one for a small acreage can rethink your plans...
I've got a couple of fields planted with Bonus Teff this year in transition before adding a little bit more AU Grazer lespedeza acreage. The teff was planted 4 weeks ago, with poultry litter applied before discing/smoothing/packing. One field, I have a significant mix of johnsongrass in.
Any thoughts on control options? I know herbicide labeling for use in Teff is very limited. Am I limited to a weed wiper over the top here, as I've got a summer annual grass over a summer annual grass?
Did a search and didn't come up with any real responses to this particular combination.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Reed
Our local dealer sells Mchale round balers. I went to a demonstration and I think they look and work very good. Cost 15k more than New Holland. I now have New Holland BR7060 which i would keep for a second baler. Does anyone have experience with the Mchale baler?
I seen this add on Craigslist.
Looking for a partner (Kaycee Wyoming) hide this posting
Hi,
I'm a disabled man looking to make some extra income but in my situation I need some help. It will give me a chance to make extra income and it will give someone extra income too. Here's what I'm offering . I'm looking for someone / partner would be willing in raising / run a small number of cows or a small number of sheep . I will buy the cows or sheep and either pay the person to take care of them or pay in calves or lambs for the work. This would include all maintenance of the cows or sheep or herd such as : calving , lambing , feeding , hauling to vet , hauling to sale or selling outright based on my approval. I can help with some things , including branding as I have had horses and sheep and cows in the past. I would want a trial run to see if this could work. A contract would be signed between the partner and myself to assure we both understand the relationship . Thank-you for your time and considering my proposition.
I am thinking there are other investments one could invest into that would be more profitable than having a few head of cows. Of course he does not say how many, but he needs someone to take care of them year round, unless he maybe has some summer grass to put these critters on.
I may be getting 2 calf's, both are 1 1/2 weeks old bottle babies.. A friend of mine has them, they both are were twins from different cows and both cows wouldn't take them so he is bottle feeding them..
I have a 2 yr old calf now that thinks she is a horse as she has been raised with my 3 boys...
I haven't raised a bottle baby in a long long time, remind me just what I'm likely getting into...
one is angus/Santa Gertrudis mix, the other is simental angus mom/ Santa Gertrudis / angus father
He said they are eating feed also and 2 bottles a day..
I think the price is reasonable, he is asking 250$ each, I may be able to get both cheaper beings he is a friend..
Please inform me as to what I'm getting into here, it's been a while for me in this area, I do have a day job but I can get up earlier to feed them, 4am vs 5am wouldn't hurt me...
What else am I forgetting here...
Thanks, Chris
bought a jd 535 baler with hydrolic pickup. cylinder moves in and out ,but pickup don't move up or down. any pictures or ideas would be appreciated
Got around to actually using the IH 2250 loader we have for the 784 and the boom cylinders leak pretty good. Not enough to quite using it, but enough that it needs to be fixed. The local CaseIH dealer wants $138 for each seal kit, but I found the folks here (http://ift.tt/2sHAbLh) that have the 'same' kit for $38. Having been burned by cheap parts before, I was wondering if anyone has used these folks before? If so, what did you think?
I got a pasture that I usually cut once for hay, but don't need it for hay this year. Planning to bushhog,( thick fescue) but wondering if I could mow it instead and leave it on the ground. Don't need it for grazing till the fall.Any drawbacks to doing it this way?
I've got a couple of fields planted with Bonus Teff this year in transition before adding a little bit more AU Grazer lespedeza acreage. The teff was planted 4 weeks ago, with poultry litter applied before discing/smoothing/packing. One field, I have a significant mix of johnsongrass in.
Any thoughts on control options? I know herbicide labeling for use in Teff is very limited. Am I limited to a weed wiper over the top here, as I've got a summer annual grass over a summer annual grass?
Did a search and didn't come up with any real responses to this particular combination.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Reed
My cousin and I were sitting on the back porch the other day, having a beer after getting done with haying, and he reminded me that our grandfather had a very simple maintenance technique for his small tools like shovels, hoes, etc.
He kept a bucket of sand saturated with used motor oil in the tool shed. When he got done with a tool, like a shovel, he simply ran it down into the bucket two or three times. The sand cleaned off the dirt, polished the surface and oiled it to keep it from rusting.
If you've ever used a shovel that was rusty or had old dirt stuck to it, you known how hard it was to use. The polished, shiny, oiled surface makes a tool a lot easier to use.
I've always cleaned my tools after using them but this idea makes it a lot easier.
Ralph
Those old timers knew a lot more than we give them credit for.
I finally got the Ok to spray for a client, one I have been doing for a few years but under new owners now, mainly gravel roads between crops, could be corn or beans or both. This is a world wide corporation and the vendor process took a long time and I'm a month behind when I should have sprayed. 3 weeds are the problem, mares tale, giant ragweed and water hemp, all roundup resistant. Was going to spray roundup/duel but now I have no idea, thought about dicamba but rep is telling me that's not even working on the water hemp. For the record, cost is an issue, any ideas?
Still working my way through 1st cutting and am fighting, as usual, with my kuhn speed rake in heavy alfalfa and alfalfa/orchard mix. I small square everything and need a fairly tight windrow and I get fussy when my wheel rake leaves hay and skips over it.
No matter what I do it I end up raking over hay twice to get the most of it. Just trying to merge two swaths in the middle.
It's gonna cost me some money, but will a Kuhn 6501 twin rotor center delivery solve my problems? Just tired of jacking with my wheel rake. I don't need a gigantic rake, my discbine is only 10 foot.
Still working my way through 1st cutting and am fighting, as usual, with my kuhn speed rake in heavy alfalfa and alfalfa/orchard mix. I small square everything and need a fairly tight windrow and I get fussy when my wheel rake leaves hay and skips over it.
No matter what I do it I end up raking over hay twice to get the most of it. Just trying to merge two swaths in the middle.
It's gonna cost me some money, but will a Kuhn 6501 twin rotor center delivery solve my problems? Just tired of jacking with my wheel rake.
While going over the baler, I noticed the tip of one of the finger-like guides for the elevator chain on the tensioner was either worn or had broken off (maybe former user's faulty weld). Seems like it could be a problem which might result in damaged bearings or possibly the chain popping off the sprocket. Should I be concerned about this? If so, I'll need to replace it which involves loosening the chain and dropping the tensioner. Should I do this with the door open or closed? Any other suggestions? Thanks.
Hello folks,
There is a Vermeer R23 twin rake for sale not too far away at a good price. It has a new respray (which makes me suspicious) and the seller says he has ordered a new one. It looks straight enough in the photos. I am not 100% happy with my 10 wheel Sitrex carted v-rake because it does not make an even width windrow (which my Claas Rollant 66 round baler prefers). The manual fold on the Vermeer does not worry me, but the lack of hydraulic lift does. I am wondering whether I could fasten a cable to the centre rear of each basket and bring each cable up to a pulley on the hanger then in to pulleys above the pivot points where the baskets fold, then forward to attach to the assembly that lifts the front of the baskets hydraulically when the rake is folded. Has anyone tried anything like that?
Thanks,
Roger
I have a Hesston 5580 round bailer and it wont make a good firm heavy bale.
What can I adjust or add to this bailer to help out?
I haven't measured my belt lengths in a while.
I would like to make a 1200 LB bail out of grass mixed alpha.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, THANKS!!!!!
Hello folks,
There is a NH 1030 bale wagon coming up for auction at a clearing sale near me in a few days. I have never owned a bale wagon, and haven't used one for 25 years. I don't make a lot of small bales, only a few hundred at a time. I reckon a cheap bale wagon would be easier than carting bales by hand.
The ad does not say it is a 1030 but it sure looks like it to me. The offest tandem wheels are a giveaway, I reckon. I know it's about 50 years old but it looks pretty straight in the photo to my eye. I like the idea of hydraulic drive and lift on the loader, and hydraulic operation of all the tables (compared with say the 1012). I know the specs say 36 inch bales are too short for it, but are they really?
Any tips? I have seen the posts in the recent "school me on balewagons" thread http://ift.tt/2sA4aob and they make sense.
Roger
Hello,
Does anyone have a picture of the NH BR7050 with
the net wrapper feature?
I can't find even one of these in the for sale postings.
Can the net wrapper be added to a twine only baler?
And is it in the twine box up front, or attached on the back?
Thanks.
>be me
>be baling with "new" NH 565
>its been to the dealer, they said
>its got a brand new left side knotter, they said
>dealer says its field ready, they said
~3 mins in
BOOM
>put in new shear pin
>cant turn baler by hand
>something clearly damaged
>look around the back and find this
I dont even have a theory. My bales were a little short but they were tying, up until the one(s) left in the shoot. It looks like the knotter stopped knotting, and the twine somehow got tangled up in things.
Thoughts?
I could've flipped a table when it happened. Great start to my first season.
Looking to upgrade from my Kuhn GA6000 to a single rotor with min clean sweep of 13'. Was looking at Kuhn and Pequea through 2 different dealers. Kuhn does not have one that fits my criteria but the rep came across a great deal on the Claas that ends at the end of the month. I know nothing about Claas and have never looked into them. Would like to know all the good and bad anybody has experienced with them.
The Kuhn will be for sale if there is any interest.
having problem to get my jd 535 baler to make dense bales. the tension cylinders are good. and the hydraulic block is good.
what else is there?? any help appreciated!!! john
Looking for some used Kuhn parts... FA 392 sickle mower..need to connect from the pittman to the ball on the bar and a front half of the driveshaft for a ga300 gm... Just started looking and am not having much luck
I have an older piece of equipment and this may not be quite the right forum for this question. However, a lot of you guys have messed with bigger equipment and I wanted to know what you thought of this idea...
My excavator is a 1966 Insley truck mounted HT560. A lot of the hydraulic hoses have Code 61 flange fittings on them and when you go to try buying those fittings at weird angles like 30 degrees and 60 degrees, they can get pretty pricey. I've seen some flange to JIC adapters available on the market at those same weird angles and it seems to me that that would make life easier for hose replacement and connector cost.
Have any of you had any experience with JIC as opposed to flange fittings on hydraulics? Is there a downside to making this change? Would I be better off to just bite the bullet and continue on with the flange fittings the machine was originally made with?
From Progressive Forage Grower......who says they are necessary.....but, sometimes they are not as many know.....I guess it just depends upon your clientele.
Regards, Mike
A friend of mine has a NH 282 baler that misses every 10-15 bales. He has to retread the needles each time.
Anyone know where to get a operators manual for this baler so we can trouble shoot it?
Thanks
Bill
I have a Vicon KM281 disc mower conditioner that has the segmented nylon rollers missing. I saw on an old thread that someone had replaced them with wood treated 4X4 segments that they made. I would like to have some pictures of what was done.
I have a New Holland BR 7060 round baler. If bale command plus is set to manual, I can extend and retract actuator to net wrap bale. However, in auto, it will not automatically wrap, and if you press wrap and hold until it beeps it also will not wrap. any ideas on how to get it to wrap automatically? No error codes come up.
Hello all,
Looking for input from users of the Steffen accumulator. My second season running mine and I think I've just about got it figured out and had this pop up.
However, after putting up 1500 bales last Weds I noticed the flow control valve and the hydraulics in general were so hot as to melt some little plastic freeze plugs on the sump housing on the back of my T4.75. I didn't have my infared thermometer with me but I'd have been surprised if it was less than 200F. Really really really hot.
Levels were within range, the remote valve was open all the way, the flow control was set up for open center per Steffen manual instructions, the accumulator was operating normally.
I've noticed some heat in the past but this was far hotter than prior 4 times I've ran it.
Has anyone else experienced anything like this? Suggestions for remediation?
Any reason not to plumb in a cooler with a fan if it keeps up?
Jake
Boy I hate it when critters get killed when I'm mowing. This years first cut is especially thick and I've been careful to watch for fawns and other wildlife when I'm mowing. Sunday I ran through two wild turkey nests. One with 7 eggs that I crushed and another nest with 6 eggs and what was left of momma after the moco turned her into a mess of feathers and innards. There's a healthy turkey population here so its not like I'm thinning an endangered species. Its just that I enjoy having lots of wildlife around the property and rather have them eat each other instead of me doing the culling ( unless its venison). I got to witness a bald eagle take a trout from the pond a couple weeks ago. That's a special kind of reward for spending lots of time outdoors! What's your experience been with close encounters of the mowing variety?
Thinking of a new mower. Currently using a Hesston 1091 sycle machine, looking at mounted disc mowers. Dealer is suggesting a Kuhn GMD 24, 7'-10" cut. Will be running it on a JD 3020 about 70hp with loaded rear tires, he says no problem at all. He also has a GMD 20 to look at and the JD 7'-10" too, not sure on that model. Would love to hear thoughts or suggestions on the disc vs sickle, and Kuhn brand.
I am in the market for a new to me hay rake. We have always used a bar rake in the past, and have never had any issues, however we are now up to over 100 acres of hay, and need something that we don't spend the entire day raking. There are times that I have to rake and bale all myself, so speed does matter. Most of our fields are 10 acres or less, and since we are in northeastern Ohio, most are not flat, and usually have some bends to work around. I had about 20 acres down this week, and tried a worn out 3 point 8 wheel rake. It did rake hay faster that the single bar rake, but it was not pretty. This one was pretty worn out, but I just wanted to try something different. On the flat it did pretty good, but moved around too much on the hills. It left too much hay on the ground for my liking, and did not make a very pretty windrow. Also, we normally do not ted our hay, but wait until it is dry most of the way, and flip it over to expose anything green on the bottom. Usually work pretty good for us, as by the time we are ready to bale, everything is dry. I did not like how the center section of hay does not get turned over by the rake, as this will leave us with tough spots. I'm not sure if a kicker wheel will fix this problem, or just cause more problems. We have a 7'6" disc mower, and it lays everything out in a pretty wide swath.
We have a neighbor that has a 10 or 12 wheel New Holland hi capacity rake, and it does a really good job. Have another neighbor that has a Kuhn rotary that makes me drool, but I think that a rotary will be out of my price range, and an older one will have too many issues to fix all the time. Another guy I know has a 10 or 12 wheel rake for sale, and I know it will be a good one, as he takes really good care of all of his equipment. If he hasn't sold it yet, that is.
I did like the speed of the 8 wheel v rake I used, just didn't think that it did a clean or neat job of raking. I know a lot of the issues were that it was just worn out, but I don't want to get into another piece of equipment that is not usable, so was looking for suggestions. I'd like to stay under $2500 if possible.
What are your opinions and experiences with knotter fans? I have a fairly new NH 5070 and was contemplating whether or not a Heco knotter fan would help the longevity of the knotters. I've never had a missed knot that I could contribute to debris in the knotters, so I'm not worried about that. I was just wandering if anyone has experienced the life of knotters increasing due to a fan keeping the chaff blown off? Or, are there any other advantages/disadvantages that I'm not seeing? What are your thoughts?
I'm watching my 3 and 1 year old while I type so I might be all over the place.
We currently run 2 older 9' haybines. Both are slow and I'm waiting for a major breakdown every time we cut. I'm debating on getting rid of one and keeping the other for ditches, and getting something that will be a little more efficient. We have always had haybines so I know them fairly well which is why I'm considering a 12 footer. Or even a newer 9' that cuts better. Or a 9' discbine?
Currently we have a Gehl 1090 and a NH 492
I've heard the MacDon 4000 will out cut the 492 by a lot and there is a nice one available close by.
Otherwise I'm looking for suggestions on a 12' haybine, or 9' disbine?
South central MN - I do need a conditioner - no impeller. I do have a small single row tedder.
Hello everyone, mew forum member here.
I bought a New Idea 4643 round baler this Spring and used it for the first time yesterday. I made a few bales but also had to eject a few untied. I eventually discovered that the tailgate isn't latching. The tailgate closes properly against the frame but the latch mechanism doesn't move and the indicator rod doesn't go flush with the frame on top. The manual doesn't help, I'm baffled why it won't work, all of the parts are there. Thank you in advance.
I recently bought a Kuhn GMD 280 disc mower. After cutting just over 50 acres, it began smoking and smelled like burnt rubber. I suspect it's the belt(s). I haven't opened the belt access area yet. As I said, it's brand new. I know the belt tightener nut is right off of where the smoke is coming out. Anyone else had belt smoking issues with this model that is practically brand new?
Guys I'm tinkering with a case IH 8312 discbine and am getting some Vib's from the double CV pto shaft. I have some play on the two U-joints on the tractor end which are easily replaceable. I also have some play in the splines on the slip joint, not so easy to replace. When I say play in the splines I don't mean rotationally (rotationally they are tight), but when the shaft is attached at both ends I can lift the center slip joint up and down a little bit.
How much play is normal and acceptable in the slip splines? I can try and get a video if it would help?
The U-joints for the CV joint are close to 300 bucks for the pair and hate to dump that money into the shaft if the splines are still going to cause me issues. In that case the 300 bucks would be better put towards an entire new driveshaft.
Thanks for the help, Ryan
I just bought a new HT210 Bush Hog tedder, real simple 2 basket tedder. The dealer filled gearboxes with grease rather than gear oil, is this normal? I think gear oil is better, maybe they do this to prevent future leaks?
Love our TM1400 vermeer. Just wondering with the drought conditions we're experiencing here, if there's a better knife out there for short hay/grass? Also noticed last year that once in awhile while mowing grain (also droughted out and light) it would leave a strip of uncut barley once in awhile for no apparent reason.
I'm told that Ma Don blades might be a better low turbulance blade than the vermeer, and I'm also hearing that vermeer has their own short crop blade coming out.
Wondering what you guys think, and if there's any tips/ tricks that you're using to get your discbine to cut a little better.
For the sickle guys that hate discbines, I'll tell you that I have had both, and I'd rather leave 10% in the field( which isn't even possible) than go back to a sickle ever again....... ever.
Anybody know anything about these? Found one for sale local. Looking to buy a rake for grass hay. Would a wheel rake be a better choice?
My RoundUp Ready alfalfa field is very old--about 11 years. I plan to spray it with 2,4d in a few days. How long after spraying do I need to wait before tilling and planting oats or barley?
What a good feeling--first cutting done and in the barn. Barn's almost full, room for about 25 more bales.
Ralph
What a good feeling--first cutting done and in the barn. Barn's almost full, room for about 25 more bales.
Ralph
